Toyota - Tacoma :: 1998 - Intermittent Hesitation When Driving
Jul 18, 2013
My '98 Tacoma automatic has had a intermittent hesitation for 5 months. I've had it to 3 mechanics who cannot get it to hesitate when they are driving it. I left it for 2 nights at the last auto shop and let them drive it when it's cold and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. It hesitated 3 times this afternoon as I was driving it home from the shop.
Everybody has told me to wait until it gets worse to bring it back to be fixed. I have a new catalytic converter, o2 sensor, fuel filter and none of that has worked. The check engine light has come on briefly once, but went off before I could get it diagnosed. What I can do to get it diagnosed and fixed before I get stranded somewhere?
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I have a '97 Toyota Tacoma, two-wheel drive. It has 154,000 miles on it. During the last three weeks, there's been a hesitation/ stumbling sensation happening occasionally in the first three gears. It doesn't happen in 4th or on the freeway. At first, I thought it felt more like a "slipping", like a clutch going bad (since I still have the original clutch).
I had my mechanic check it out, and it's fine. Here's a brief history of recent work done. Three months ago: injectors removed and cleaned out on a special machine. I replaced the cap & rotor and spark plugs. The wires were replaced last year. I replaced the fuel filter and PCV valve. I cleaned out and replenished my K&N air filter. Last week, I checked the connections where the spark plug wires connect to the cap. They seem fine.
View 3 Replies
I have a wobble in steering at 55 mph and have gone thru 2 sets of tires. After 1st set i changed front struts, no luck . When i rotate tires from rear to front it goes away for 6 months and tires start to wear wavy and wobble starts.
View 3 Replies
98 trd 4x4 locker I do not think is working!!!
(The light on the dash just flashes) could it be destroyed internally? how do i tell if the Sylenoid is working? this is my second toyota i bought it a month ago and will be spending big bucks on this unit (parts for repairs, labor not included already exceeding 2,000) on parts alone. i have tried backing up, low 4x4 and the light just flashes! could some moron have blown it up before i bought it? are they very strong? better yet, if it is broken.
View 11 Replies
My 1998 2x4 2.4 cylinder tacoma truck (69k miles) is making a noise when idling or in any of the gears (5 spd) going down the road. The noise goes away when I barely touch/depress the clutch (depress about 1/2 to 1 inch). Any ideas what is making this sound? It's not a growl or rattle, but a very high pitch, whistling sound almost like a cross between a cricket, cicada and grass hopper.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma manual shift and when driving with the air conditioning on my truck makes an odd noise. The noise is very sporatic but seems to happen most at about 50MPH and 70MPH. I am going to try and type out the sound...."Chht" It is quick and only happens once at a time. The power of the engine drops when it happens as though it may cut out. But it is very quick.
View 1 Replies
Have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma 4WD with around 230K miles. Recently, it has been 'skipping'. When we are driving or idling, it's like the engine sputters out and jerks along but it never stalls and always starts. Had it to dealer and another mechanic - plugged it in said it was catalytic converter and 02 sensor. We changed those, along with: plugs, wires, air filter, oil. That did not fix it. What this could be. Where else to start to look for this vehicle. It's been the greatest little truck.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2008 manual transmission toyota tacoma about 50k miles. I am in vegas for the summer and since being here in the last couple weeks when I just start driving and go from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a grinding sound. Also a little bit when in 3rd gear. After the first couple minutes of driving it doesnt do that at all. What it may be or what I can do to alleviate the problem without a shop selling me a new transmission.
View 5 Replies
I have a 1998 Honda Civic LX that was converted from automatic to 5 speed. It hesitates while I drive, only sometimes. Normally it does it when I am pulling off from a stopped position or when turning the corner and then accelerating. I will have my foot on the gas, but it won't gain speed unless I hold in the clutch and rev up the engine then it will pick up speed and go fine. Then sometimes it also hiccups while driving without accelerating, I can feel the car jerk a few times and start to loose power.
I will need to down shift to third, or most often 2nd gear and rev it again to gain power and to pick back up speed. Things done to it since i bought it only a few months ago by the person (who is a mechanic) I bought it from: oil change, fuel filter changed, Lucas gas treatment added (by me), new exhaust system installed, starter replaced. I am nervous that it may be rear-ended, or t-boned in heavy traffic. Should i have the fuel filter checked?
View 3 Replies
In january I took my 2001 Toyota corolla to the mechanic (that had replaced the engine 5 years ago) because it was using oil and gas mileage was very poor. He gave the car and tune up and right afterward I noticed the car hesitated for just a second within the first mile of driving. After the hesitation it had full power.
Then the check engine light came on with a code for O2 sensor; I had that part replaced about 2-3 years ago. So that was replaced. The next day I was driving on the highway when I heard a pop and lights came on everywhere. The car ran, but when I stopped, it was smoking and wouldn't start. AAA towed it and said the water pump broke and took the serpentine belt with it, and I had it repaired there.
Car continued to to the "hesitation" thing, but I learned to live with it, until 4 weeks later it lost power and wouldn't go more than 5 miles an hour. Very dangerous! Also the check engine light came on - O2 sensor again. The original mechanic towed it back to his shop, has had it over a month. Say sometimes it runs fine and sometimes it really hesitates. My son took the plugs out and said they didn't look new and replaced them with best quality new plugs (mechanic said the plugs looked worn due to problems reported).
He's been a mechanic his whole career and still can't find out the problem. He checked the MAF and said it's fine. I can't afford to put more money into it, but it's worth nothing but junk value now after putting over $1000 into it. I didn't have these issues before I took it to him in January. He has a good reputation, but I don't know what gives.
Is this all a coincidence that it happened at once? What could have happened?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra V6. The problem I have with it is it hesitates. It does not happen ALL the time but it is very frequent. Sometimes it happens when I try to accelerate from a dead stop and other times while I am driving along (does not matter what speed). It will usually hesitate for a few seconds then everything is normal. The check engine light thus not come on.
I took it into Toyota. They duplicated the problem on the first test drive but did not have their equipment hooked up at the time. They kept the truck for over a week and finally got it to happen again. I guess they must have only been going on short test drives because it happens to me multiple times a day. They told me it was the throttle body and it needed to be replaced. My jaw hit the floor when they told me how much they charge to replace it. I ran this by a couple of friends who work on cars on the side and they said it sounded like the mass air flow sensor needed to be replaced. Since this was much cheaper than a throttle body, I replaced that. However, it did not solve the problem.
View 2 Replies
My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears.
It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
View 7 Replies
I have a 1998 toyota sienna with 170k. Yesterday when I was driving on the highway, the car turned completely off, and then after about 2 seconds started back up again. When it turned off, the electronics turned off along with the engine. I had no brake power, lost power steering, and couldn't even turn on the hazards. It did it 2 more times before I got home.
The second time, I noticed that it did this when I turned on the headlights. This time the engine stayed on, but the speedometer and tachometer went nuts (bouncing up and down) and all of the console lights turned on and off. When I turned the headlights off, everything went ok. When I got home and turned the car off, it went dead. Haven't tried starting it today, but the battery light went on dimly when I put the key in.
Took a quick look at the battery. The terminals are corroded. I'm going to clean them today, but I'm feeling that it won't do much. The battery light didn't turn on, so I'm thinking that the alternator is ok (am I wrong?). Since the electronics and brakes died when the engine died, I'm thinking it's not the distributor coil. Is my ecu fried?
View 1 Replies
I had my minivan stop running while i was on the freeway. My electrical seemed a bit off, the speed decreased and it slowly died. I tested the battery and it was fine, tested the alternator and it failed. I changed the alternator and still wouldn't start. I changed the battery as well and it worked for about 2 days and then it did the same thing. Radio started to flicker, all the lights turned on and the car decreased until it didn't run anymore?What could this be? Bad gearing? A faulty brand new alternator?
View 4 Replies
I have a 1998 Camry V6 with 165000 miles. I had brake pads and rotors replaced on all four tires. Two days later, I noticed a flapping/knocking noise apparently coming from the rear of the car. It only happens after the car as been driving for 5-10 minutes. The noise increases in frequency as the speed of the vehicle increases and is unaffected by braking or bumps and gets louder the longer the car is driven. I took the car back and they re-checked all the brake installations and said everything was fine and the noise was nothing to worry about (of course I had to convince them that there really was a noise). They also said they inspected the tires and didn't find anything wrong. I have jacked the car up and looked under all tires and don't see anything close to the tires that could be hitting them. It sounds like a strip of rubber hitting a metal pan. I see no loose plastic guards or mudflaps. The tires were all replaced less than 2 years ago and they have been rotated regularly and visually appear to be in good shape.
View 4 Replies
I just bought a 1998 Tacoma v6 SR5 TRD excab with 112k miles. I'm having trouble figuring out why the suspension on my truck is so soft and even dangerously unstable when driving at highway speeds. Is it my shocks?
When I hit a bump on the highway, 65-75mph, it rocks side to side really bad. But at lower speeds it takes bumps very good almost like a Cadillac. It has Monrore sensatrac shocks at all four corners, so I figure they are not stock. Do you think I have the wrong shocks on it? it doesn't sag at all so I doubt the springs are worn out at 112k.
View 2 Replies
Some background. I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 2WD with about 150,000 miles. A few months ago the check engine light was flashing when I am travelling over 70mph. The dealership said nothing is wrong when I asked them to look into it. But I didn't get any codes from it. I read on-line that it could be a possible misfire so I changed the plugs and wires.
A few weeks ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it to a dealership to diagnosis the problem, they came up with Mass Air Flow sensor was shot. I replaced that, and reset the computer. It still comes on and flashes at highway speeds. I bought a low end computer to read the codes.
I got P300 (Random/Multiple Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire) and P305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire). Cylinder 5 has the coil-pack and Cylinder 2 has the wire coming off the coil-pack for Cylinder 5. So I replaced the coil-pack. The light is still coming on and flashing. How to stop the light from flashing. It comes on only when I am travelling past 70MPH. I have tried just rev'ing the engine up to the same RPM's as I am running when doing 70, but the light doesn't flash then.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2013 Tacoma TRD with 18k miles, totally stock after driving awhile intermittently the front left wheel has been locking up like I tapped the brake just on that wheel. I've taken it to Toyota and they cant duplicate the problem. This last weekend I drove several hundred miles and the right side started doing it about two to three seconds after the left side for about five minutes then ran fine. It actually makes a chirping noise and slightly jerks the wheel in that direction. This has only happened going over 65mph. Since Toyota claims to have never seen this problem there basically telling Me to drive the truck until it gets worse. They checked the brakes and bearings out.
View 1 Replies
I've got a 1996 Tacoma - manual transmission, 4 cylinder, 2.7 liter engine with close to 170,000 miles on it - owned it for 10 years and 100,000 miles. Wonderful, great truck. Except.....
It has two starting problems and I can't seem to sort them out. The first is it's incredibly hard to start when the outside air is hot. Living in San Francisco, I usually forget about this problem until I drive to the central valley to visit my mom in August. Nothing like coming out of the rest stop, trying to start the engine and then having the feeling of doooh! again!. Seems to be worse when the outside air temp is over 85 or 90 degrees and the engine has been running than sits for 5-10 minutes. Cranks fine but won't catch. When it finally catches, it's like it's really slow to fire - can't quite explain it, but it's like it's doing a lot of thinking about actually running and has to talk itself into the idea. Can take 5-10 minutes to finally get it going, but usually 30 seconds to a minute. Always worried this'll be the time it doesn't want to go. My mechanic has looked at it a few times - but it's almost impossible to recreate in San Francisco when I get home due to the lack of warm days.
Second problem is trouble cold starting. When I come out in the morning, the engine takes two or three attempts to get it to start. Once it again, it cranks fine, but it's as if there's no fuel getting to the engine. If I just keep cranking, it won't fire but if I crank it, turn it off, crank it, turn it off and crank it again it'll always catch on the second or third go. Once the engine is at temp, it seems like less of a problem and easier starting. My mechanic say's "It's an old truck and it always starts eventually, so don't worry about it."
View 4 Replies
I have a 1995 Toyota Tacoma with a manual transmission that will not go into gear. How can you tell if it is the clutch or the slave cylinder that is bad?
View 2 Replies
My 97 toyota tacoma will not start. have fuel, changed plugs, has spark. still will not start.
View 2 Replies
