Toyota - Tacoma :: 1996 - Air Conditioner Sometimes Doesn't Put Out Cold Air
Jul 1, 2015
I have a 1996 Toyota Tacoma, 5 speed manual pickup.
Occasionally I use the air conditioner. I'll be driving along and it's working fine but then it stops putting out cold air. I pulled into the mechanic one day and confirmed that when it is not putting out cold air, the compressor still seems to be running.
If I go into a store for about 15 minutes and then come out again, it works again. What might be happening?
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My 96 Tacoma has recently developed an issue where the starter doesn't engage when I turn the key. If I let out the clutch/break and start over, it typically works.
The weird part is that I never had this issue until I had the clutch replaced. The day after I got it back was the first time I had any issues. It is intermittent and doesn't happen anywhere close to all the time. I took it back to the shop that did my clutch and they told me I needed to replace my starter but I'm wondering if there is any other explanation for what's happening that would make sense given the timing of the whole thing. Could work they did replacing the clutch be causing this?
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This is a great little truck we only use occasionally. It has 145,000 miles and runs great, but the a/c temperature is very sporadic, and this week it is 100 degrees! One day it will work fine, and the next day it will only blow hot air. Sometimes the air starts out cold, but after 5 min of driving, it turns hot. I have had the freon checked and my mechanic said part of the compressor (forget what he called it) was probably getting stuck at times, and he would have to pull it all out and possibly replace...
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So i just bought my lexus es350 2007 and I just realized that my driver's side doesn't blow cold air unlike the passenger's side i tried to google it and then i believe as i read on here its the blender door.
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My 1995 Toyota Tacoma won't start every time I turn the key. Sometimes it starts right up, but recently, more often than not it just gives a single click when the clutch pedal is pressed in just about all the way.
I replaced the neutral safety clutch switch and it started every time for about a week, then it went back to not starting reliably.
I'm growing tired of making sure I park on a hill each time I park.
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This is a 1996 Toyota Tacoma, 2WD, 2.4L. When I apply the brakes I get a very heavy vibration in the front end, almost like a wobble. The vehicle otherwise stops fine. No noises. The vibration occurs at pretty much any speed over 20 mph. The frequency does not seem tied to the actual speed but it's hard to tell for sure. It does not do it when I apply the emergency brake only.
I replaced the front disk brake pads, with new clips and shims. There were worn down pretty far and needed replacing. Unfortunately that did not make any difference in the vibration. Rotor runout and minumum thickness were checked while changing the disk brake pads and both were within specs. I did a quick inspection of the ball joints and tie rod ends by trying to move the tire and everything seems tight enough.
I'm not very proficient on suspension issues. What else can I look for.
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I recently purchased 96 Toyota Tacoma 108 K miles. I discovered that it is totally missing all the front fender liners on both sides. Looking for info as to the number of parts needed for each side. No need to include the clips because they are bought by the 10 pack. Maybe how many 10 packs.
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2004 Solora ... 185K Miles and after driving about 45-60 minutes the AC stops blowing cold air. The blower inside the car runs, the clutch is still engaged on the compressor yet only warm air is blowing through the vents. If the car sits overnight the AC will work again. It does not always stop after 60 minutes of driving. Sometimes I can go days driving 60 minutes at a time and the AC works the entire time. Other times it will quit after 45 minutes. When it works I have no complaints.
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I have a Toyota Tacoma 4 wheel drive it has a v6 motor. here is whats going on...sometimes it starts just fine,other times i think when it gets cold i try and start it.... it will crank over just fine but does not start, then i turn the key off and try and start it again and it starts just fine,sometimes when its acting up i try starting it and after trying to start it after 3 tries ir runs rough for just a sec or too.
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After my car has sit for a couple of days, it doesn't like to start. By, " doesn't like to start", I mean it doesn't even click when the key is turned. I put a new battery in it but that didn't work. If I get it to start it seems to always start after coming out of a store (knock on wood). This only seems to be a problem after it has sit for a while.
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I bought a remfg denso starter for my 2000 toyota tacoma prerunner 3.4L V6. I spent hours without success trying to get the old starter out. Brought it to a shop and had the new one installed. When I do a cold start, there is a screech at the end when the engine catches that sounds exactly like starting a car that is already running. This happens on cold starts only. Warm starts work fine. Due to the fact that I bought this part separate, having to pay to have a new one installed again is annoying to say the least. I spent another 4 hours today trying to get it out without success. See YouTube link for video of the noise. It's actually the quietest one yet.
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The truck has 230,000 miles and has a squeal that sounds like a belt but it's not. I have put the truck in neutral coasted with the engine off and the noise is still there. The noise only happens when the weather is cold and only when the truck is coasting. Under acceleration the sound goes away.
Toyota Tacoma Prerunner 2003 (2.7)...
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I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
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I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
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1996 Mazda Protege air conditioner died today in the lovely 2nd week of Kansas heat wave of over 100 degrees each day. Was replaced in 2006.
What should be the approximate cost of the parts and labor to replace? Is it normal to have died after 8 years? It was a reconditioned one.
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My Chevrolet 1992 Caprice Air conditioner is chilling but the compressor doesn't disengage when reach the right temperature inside cabin... There seems to be a temperature control or a sensor and I don't know where is it...
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Works approximately 10 minutes, then blows hot air.
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I have a 1996 2.7L 4x4 Tacoma. About a month ago I had a problem pop up. I went to start my truck and nothing happened. All the dash lights came on(i.e. e-brake indicator, airbag light, check engine light) like they were suppose to when you turn on the key. I heard the fuel pump come on and the starter relay click, but the starter did not activate. My first thought was bad battery because it had the original from when I bought it used. So I replaced it. Thought problem was fixed, but it reappeared. Checked all the starter wires and alternator wiring and they all appear to be fine. Truck started fine for a week after I had inspected the wiring. Then the problem came back.Then I replaced the starter thinking maybe the solenoid was bad. Once again the truck started fine for a day or two then the problem resurfaced. I thought maybe the starter relay had a bad contact in it so I replaced that, with no luck. Then I replaced the ignition switch thinking maybe that had a bad contact in it. Once again no resolution to the problem. The final piece to the puzzle is that sometimes if you keep turning the key over and over the thing will start and other times it refuses.
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I have a manually operated air conditioner. On cool days it seems to be working, but on hot days, after sitting for a while it can take 15-20 minutes for my air to come on after starting the car. It then stays cool for about 10 minutes and slowly transitions to warmer air and sometimes back to cool. I've had the freon checked and topped off, but that has not solved the issue.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee and the air conditioner is giving me some problems. The issue is that at random times, it stops cooling, and just blows hot air. Sometimes I can drive all day, and it's fine. Other times, it only blows cold for a few minutes, before the air gets warm.
I've started checking under the hood when this happens, and the compressor is not engaged. I noticed a couple of times that the hoses were frosted over (not every time when the compressor was out). I have found that when the air starts blowing cold, I can turn on the heater for a few minutes, and then when I turn the A/C back on, it will blow cold air again. However, often times the cold air will only last around 10 minutes before it blows warm again. Plus, there are a couple of instances where the heater trick didn't really work.
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I have noticed that on my 2012 5.0 Screw that the A/C isn't very cold. It is no where near as cold as my last truck, or any of a number of late model cars I have driven. If it's over 85 and I have it set to auto (70 degrees) it will never get there and just run full tilt the whole day. Even if you select Max A/C and blow it on you you will never have to turn the fan down from being cold as in other cars.
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