Toyota - Tacoma :: 1977 - Brake Pedal Sticking Down
Mar 31, 2013
My brake pedal is sticking down every time I push it in. I tried replacing the spring that was in there with a stronger one and sprayed the whole unit down with an all purpose silicon lubricant. It seemed to work a little but the problem is far from solved. It seems like it is sticking somewhere further away from the pedal. Master Cylinder maybe? I selected Tacoma because it's the closest option to my truck, but it's actually a 77 pickup/hilux.
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I have a 2007 Tacoma 4 cylinder 5 speed. The clutch pedal started sticking about a month ago and has only happened a hand full of times. When the pedal is pushed to the floor it would stick, I thought it was hanging up on the floor mat at first but that was not the case. I went out to move the truck today and the pedal immediately stuck to the floor. Like usual I tapped the pedal kind of on the side to get it to release. the pedal then came back up. But now it wont push back in at all!!! There is only 1/2" of travel on the pedal and stops solid. It's like it is binding up on something. The spring seems to be in place the right way and nothing that I can see obviously wrong.
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Brake pedal goes to floor with no resistance first time I start in am. Rest of day all normal. Started when cold weather came. Fluid ok, no leaks seen.
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05 Toyota Tacoma without traction control but has ABS. A few weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal felt mushy. I had my wife step on the brakes with the engine running. I could hear a swoosh of air coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall but more towards the passenger side. I did the following tests:
With engine off pump brake pedal and it built preassure and stayed firm.
With engine RUNNING held foot on brake and turned engine off. The brake pedal moved slowly to the floor.
Check the check valve in the brake booster and its good.
So, I replaced the Brake booster, bleed the air out of the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Now it feels great for about the first 20min of driving but then goes soft again. and I'm still getting the swoosh of air escaping from somewhere in the same place as before.
I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak somewhere before it goes into the brake booster? the connection is good where the vacuum hose comes from the engine to the brake booster. OR should I replaced the master cylinder?
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When depressed the break peddle is firm, when released break peddle does not return, replaced mc and booster, bleed breaks. Still having same problem.
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My 2010 RAV4 is not on the recall VIN number list but it has been surging occasionally since I got it in May. Dlr says No report of that. 2 days ago as I was braking from 20 mph to stop, the engine suddenly reved up fast and roared, I had to stand on the brake, fought it hard, acceleration ceased and I avoided rearending car ahead. Dlr & Toyota in a quandary, can't find problem, they still have vehicle, I have loaner. I'm afraid to drive it.
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My 1999 Toyota Tacoma (Ext Cab, 4x4 TRD) has 162K miles and now the clutch pedal intermittently sticks to the floor. I have to pull it off the floor with my toes while driving and have also felt the pedal start to pull back towards the floor on its own while the truck is in gear.
I'm looking for some wisdom as a few blogs/websites point towards a master cylinder, others say the master and slave, and my local auto shop said I need to replace the entire clutch assembly and throttle bearing. My truck is no spring chicken anymore but I'd like to keep it running for a few more years...
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The clutch on my 2003 Toyota Tacoma has been acting funny for a while. I have to pull the pedal back up with the top of my foot about half the time, otherwise it acts like the clutch isn't all the way disengaged when I push the pedal to the floor. The master and slave cylinders have both been replaced as well as the clutch pedal mechanism itself (thought it might be the spring). I adjusted the push rod a little bit and it seems to have worked slightly but it's definitely still a problem.
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I have a 1997 toyota tacoma. The truck runs great. Last year I replaced the front calipers and breakpads. I drive the truck maybe 3,000 miles per year. The issue I have is that the brake light will not turn off. I checked the hand brake and it works fine. The switch on the handbrake is fine too. The really unusual thing is that randomly it will turn off. usually around 30-40MPH or when I have slammed on the brake. The brake fluid is fine. Is there a sensor in the rear on the rear pads that I may need to replace?
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Passenger side brake light is not working. Bulb is fine. Seems that the "plunger action" in the socket may be lacking. I put some WD in there.....worked for a day or so....now not working. Can I replace this socket or do I need an entire lens assembly?
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I own an '05 Prerunner with 56k miles. Had the front pads replaced and turned the rotors last Spring.
Now, after sitting for awhile, as I back up the front brakes squeal. (Sounds like a rock in a caliper its so loud.)
Toyota has a TSB to fix this.
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My 09 Tacoma 91000 miles- symptom: when idling with foot on the brake, on occasion, experiences engine pause/subtle forward sensation; otherwise drives superb. Service shop said the issue is remedied by replacing the drive shaft thereby switching out the "yoke" which is the source of the problem. Shop said this is a common problem with 09 Tacomas. Does this need immediate repair or can I drive safely?
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I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
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Have a 1977 ford f150 with 351m with a motorcraft 2150. Had ( who I believe was a reliable source ) rebuild carburetor for me and after putting back on I can only keep engine running with foot on pedal. I turn idle mixture screws all way in and then proceeded to back out equally. This does not appear to be doing anything. I did turn the choke 2 notches to lean and was able to get it to idle but it wasloping so bad i shut it down and put the choke back to the middle setting.
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So when turning the key there is no response or noises coming from the vehicle. The battery shows 12.3 volts. What are possible problems? We were also having new issues yesterday with the vehicle not getting enough power after getting dusted with snow repeatedly in a snow storm and from passing vehicles.
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Sometimes when putting the vehicle into first it's almost impossible to get it to go into gear. Sometimes it's super smooth. Also when putting into reverse we hear a loud clunk. That one is most of the time but sometimes it goes in smooth. I was doing some looking around at the pedals because I think I am going to have to replace my master cylinder and noticed that on the inside of the vehicle where the clutch master cylinder comes into the vehicle it's leaking black fluid. Does that automatically mean my clutch master cylinder needs to be changed? Could this be the cause of it being difficult to shift because the clutch isn't fully disengaging?
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My Sienna 2005 experience intermittent complete brake failure 3 times within 18,000 miles,the brake pedal goes to the floor and it does not slow down, so I coast until I stop. However, when I release the brake pedal and then reapply the brakes, it works fine. A non-Toyota mechanic thinks it's due to malfunction of ABS. The dealership is unable to finds error codes and brakes work fine when the Sienna is in their hands. I scared that the brakes will not work the next time I reapply the brakes.
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A 2000 Toyota 4Runner was stopping fine. A mechanic informed me that the brake pads were worn down. After the pads were replaced and bled the pedal sinks lower than before and the car requires more pressure to stop. I can pump up the pedal after 3 pushes. I took it back and he has since re-bled the brakes but the pedal still sinks low.
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My brake pedal squeaks when I release it, for the last two weeks. Does this mean I need maintenance, repair, or some oil?
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We have a 2005 Toyota Camry, had it since 30K miles/2008, now has 94K miles. Since we have owned it, the brake pedal feel has not been great, kind of mushy. It is the way this generation Camry's are. It gets driven mostly on fwy, so not much brake use. At 92K miles I changed the front pads and rotors, pads still had 30% left on them. The rotors were somewhat warped. Brake fluid has been gravity flushed every 2 years since 2008, last one in 2012.
Now, the problem is when wife drives it, twice at a lengthy red light, she has noted that the brake pedal "almost" sinks. It did not go to the floor, but the level went lower. The car did not move during this events. With the newer ABS brake systems, on all my three cars, after a full stop, I can push the pedal down further, almost close to the floor. The Camry is the same way, just with a baseline of mushy pedals. My wife only drives one of the other ones (Dodge Caravan,)and has not complained about that one.
The brake fluid level is solid/steady, no leaks at the wheels either.
Now looking at whats involved, seems I can change the master cylinder myself. The question is do I need to? I don't mind paying a mechanic to do a diagnostic too, just not sure what they are going to do. I believe, just as a defensive measure, they will go ahead and change the MC (which then I might as well do it myself). I could also continue to drive it, but don't want to be stupid here.
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My 1987 toyota celica brake pedal is going to the floor when I apply the brakes but not all the time,i checked the pads and shoes they are still good i also bled the brakes, I am thinking it is the master cylinder or maybe the master cylinder needs to be bled.
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