Toyota - T100 :: 1993 - Rough Shifting From First Gear To Second
May 16, 2016
I drive a '93 Toyota T100 with a manual transmission. Up until recently things were going great but I've noticed it is damn near impossible to shift from reverse back into first gear when I'm pulling out of my driveway. I've also found that shifting from first gear to second has become more difficult as well though not impossible. However if I'm shifting to third, fourth, or fifth gears I don't have any problem whatsoever. I had the transmission redone about a year ago after the clutch gave out so I'm hoping its not that.
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i have a 1993 3/4 ton pickup 5.7 and it just started to shift rough it has to get up to 4000 rpm to shift from 1-2 and 2-3 someone told me to change the filter another person told me to check the vacume line i went under truck and found a vent tube out the side not sure what to do
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Did the 1996 t100 come with the rear bumper as a factory item or was it an option. I'm not sure if I should fail the vehicles inspection for missing the rear bumper. If the truck comes from the factory WITH a bumper and is no longer installed, the vehicle fails.
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The car wouldn't start ( just cranked a lot) I had the car towed to a local mechanic. He replaced the MAP sensor and now I've noticed 2 new problems.
1) engine idle rpms are erratic. When the car is started RPMs are at 1,500 after a few minutes they drop to normal range of 700 to 900 RPMs sometimes they drop too low and the car stalls. sometimes the RPMs surge up and down from 800 to 1,200 rpms.
2) very hard shift from 1st to 2nd gear. All the other shifts are normal. He said that he adjusted the RPMs because they were too high. I don't know how he did that because I thought that you couldn't adjust them because they are controlled by the computer.
Some other info, it has an exhaust leak (which Im going to fix) upstream of the O2 sensor, where the resonator connects to the headers. I replaced a rear brake line and while bleeding the lines I got brake fluid on the ABS wheel speed sensors. I replaced the coolant bypass hose and got water all over part of the engine compartment. It was immediately after I replaced that hose that the car wouldn't start.
Could the exhaust leak be the cause of the erratic idle rpms? Could water have gotten in a wire connector or shorted something out when I replaced the bypass hose? The bypass hose is directly above the transmission. My biggest concern is the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
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1993 Transport 3.8 L
Starting out from stop it seemed to get noisy and was very late shifting to 2nd. Slowed down and tried again; this time it did not want to shift to 2nd at all. Brought it home slowly.
Trans fluid was right up. I did another road test, running it manually through the gears so I could easily hear and feels the shifting. 1-2-D-OD perfect; did this twice of thrice. Starting out from stop on the highway a couple times, it shifted up perfectly. I did some kick-downs and manual shifting; everything is working fine.
Could this have been a linkage problem? Could running it manually through all the gears smarted up the linkage or something? Could it be related to the 'modulator valve'?
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Engine runs perfectly but "check engine" light" stays on due to faulty Emission Evap control pressure sensor (P/N; 89460-0w020). Problem is Toyota no longer makes this part and there is no after market for it. It appears I may have to "junk" a perfectly good truck.
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I have a 93 Corolla LE and in October I was driving in heavy rain and the car died. Since then I have replaced the spark plug wires, plug seals, distributor cap, battery, and rotor. The car would get me from A to B, but I would always have to put it in neutral at a stop to keep it from dying. This past week we've had a lot of rain and it's been really cold so my car has been dying when I slow down or stop. I gave it plently of time to heat up thinking it would work, but it died three times on the way to work.
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I have a 1993 4WD Toyota extended cab pickup with 200,000 miles on it that is getting hard to shift into first gear. I have to double/triple clutch run through the gears to get it to shift into first. It is not hard to shift all the time but the issue is getting more and more frequent.
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I have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
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I am new to the all wheel drive breed. When I turn the all wheel drive knob one click over to the right (4x4 low I believe) how much rougher should the shifting be. I notice it starts in 2nd gear, but 2-3 shift jolts the car to the point it almost snaps your neck(not WOT just normal accelaration). Each subsequent shift is a little smoother, but still very noticably rough. Is this normal? Even in the regular high mode, sometimes my regular around town low throttle shifts are pretty jolting.
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My 2009 Accent has some very rough shifts from 1st to 2nd when I'm in the low RPMs.
Hyundai performed a transmission fluid flush and the other gears shift completely effortlessly. Is my tranny dying or what?
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For the last few months my truck shifts rough between 2e and 3e gear. However it only does this first thing in the morning, when I leave the house I speed up until the end of the street, then when I let go of the gas it'll rev up a bit and shift from 2e to 3e while making a big clunking noise which I can definitely feel ...
It does it sometimes very rough and sometimes just a little bit. I used to not worry about it but i'm starting to wonder if something is wrong with my trans. Could it have something to do with the slip yoke?
Truck: f150 2009 xlt 4x4 supercab 6,5' box.....
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I have a 2007 Passat wagon 4 motion V6 and what the problem is I am getting a rough shift between 3-4 gear sometimes, usually on a slow acceleration. I have had the valve body replaced which worked for a couple of months until the problem returned. I then had the transmission replaced which worked a little but the rough shifting is still present at times. The car still has warranty and not even the dealership knows what to do?
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I around 1200 miles. The car would get going when i give it gas but it feels as if their was shifting lag or slipage. Only in first gear. Doesn't happen all the tho..usually happens on rolling stops... is this normal?
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I Own A 92 Chevy Silverado, 154 K Miles. Runs Great! My Problem? I Experience Rough Shifting At First Take Off, After She Warms Up The Shifting Is Smooth. After Parking And Starting Again, Rough Shifting With A clunking Sound.
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My 1992 F-250 7.3 4X4 has a very intermittent issue with the E40D. Rarely, usually after a lot of around town driving (I don't know if that has any direct correlation), I will get a rough shift from 1-2. It will kind of bang into gear and make the whole truck shudder.
On one of it's episodes, it also did it in 2-3, however that only happened once and I haven't been able to make it do that again. I'm worried that it's something that I should address, if I can do so without just rebuilding the whole transmission. It doesn't slip and shifts fine most of the time, other than the occasional 1-2 issue.
To cut this short, does this sound like a 1-2 accumulator issue? Maybe just old truck syndrome? I feel like this is a dumb as hell question, but isn't it a bad idea to install a shift kit in an E40D with 126K miles on it?
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A few years ago my auto transmission in my 3.5 L engine hyundai santa fe started shifting rough from 2nd to 3rd gear, i did a trans flush and changed the input output sensors, anyway last week it started again, so i just changed the input output sensors again, it did not fix the prob this time, do you think a flush would work.
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I have a 2010 Matrix with automatic transmission. 5.5 year old with only 44,000 KM ... The transmission jerks annoyingly when up-shifting from gear one to two. I replaced the transmission oil and had Toyota service confirm there is a problem.
I read that the accumulator should be checked and adjusted as well as the throttle which can be done without removing the transmission, but Toyota tells met hat everything is now electronic and there is nothing to adjust. How to proceed?
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got a sweet deal on it but only 1 problem with the car. when i shift into 2nd gear there is a grinding noise, however it doesnt grind if i drive super slow... it doesnt really matter if i upshift or downshift into 2nd it will make the noise either way... also the grinding noise is only there WHILE shifting the lever into 2nd gear so its only there for a second, once the lever is shifted into 2nd gear there is no grinding noise at all...not sure if this is related but the clutch pedal also feels very lose just when its about to hits the floor...
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Car starts normally sometimes. Other times it will not start at all (it sounds like the battery is dead) or it will struggle to start and once it does start the electronics in the car seem to not be getting any power.
While driving the car “clunks” into gear and the car lurches while shifting.
Background: I was driving down the freeway and then suddenly, it seemed as I was in forced into neutral. Immediately got off the freeway and examined the situation. The situation was I no longer had reverse, drive or overdrive. I had gears 1 and 2 though.
Brought the car to the local mechanic and had a used transmission installed. After installing the transmission, the car now lurches when it goes into gear, especially when it goes into drive (around 45 mph). The plan was to bring it back to the mechanic as soon as I would have time, however before that happened, my car started to struggle to start. Finally the battery died completely and I had to jump start it. After that it got a little more strange… sometimes I would have to jump start it, sometimes it would start fine, and sometimes it would start, but the car would not have enough electric power to power all the electronics in the car fully. The headlights would be dim, the interior lights would be dim, etc… Oddly enough, I could let the car sit for 30 minutes and it would start normally again.
Before bringing it back to the mechanic I would like to be more informed as to what could possibly be going on. Do I just need a new battery and all will be fine with starting? And the fact the trouble with starting is only coincidental with bringing it to the mechanic? (Note, the battery did die while it was at the mechanic). And what should I make of the transmission problem, do they need to install a different one?
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Sometimes when putting the vehicle into first it's almost impossible to get it to go into gear. Sometimes it's super smooth. Also when putting into reverse we hear a loud clunk. That one is most of the time but sometimes it goes in smooth. I was doing some looking around at the pedals because I think I am going to have to replace my master cylinder and noticed that on the inside of the vehicle where the clutch master cylinder comes into the vehicle it's leaking black fluid. Does that automatically mean my clutch master cylinder needs to be changed? Could this be the cause of it being difficult to shift because the clutch isn't fully disengaging?
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