Toyota - Starting - 4runner :: Cannot Restart After Driving For An Hour And A Half
Mar 31, 2011
Just replaced the starter and battery on my old but loved 4Runner. I drove it for an hour and a half last week and couldn't restart it. Just nothing - one click I think. A friend tapped on the starter and it started...but I'm not sure whether the car just cooled down at that point. Took it to the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong (no surprise, right?) Now I'm afraid to take longer trips.
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I have a 2003 rav4 with about 100000 miles on it. Over the last 4 months I have noticed that, whenever I drive half hour or longer on the highway the car starts to smell like burning rubber or burning antifreeze or something like that. I live close to work, play, and groceries, so I don't drive it that long very often. I have not noticed decreased levels of any of my fluids. No change in performance either. I've had the oil changed regularly and no problems there. I am about to drive it a thousand plus miles and would love to get this figured out before I go.
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I have a 2004 Oldsmobile Alero 4 cylinder with 127K miles. After driving for a period of 30 to 45 minutes, it will cut off and it takes 30 minutes to an hour before it will restart. I have had the fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, ignition control module, coil pack and computer replaced and I am still having the same problem. What might be causing this?
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My GC is overheating. Started as occasionally but now increasing in frequency. I find it will being to overheat after driving on the interstate for half hour or so but I can "calm" it back down but turning on the heat. I've replaced the following:
1. coolant (no drips or leaks nor am I losing coolant over time)
2. thermostat (twice)
3. temperature sensor
4. serpentine belt and tensioner
5. radiator (last summer)
6. water pump (last winter)
I notice the fans run more often than they should. For example, after a 10 minute ride to work in the morning,. I notice the fans are running as I pull into my parking space.
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I noticed through careful investigation that my 03 GTI 1.8T (180,000 KM's or 111,850 miles) will grind 3rd when in these conditions:
1. When the car has been driving for more then half an hour and everything is hot
2. When the car is over 2800 RPM's while hot (ie. getting on a highway)
Now I know lot's of people blame syncro's and yes I could see that my car has had 8 previous owners so I can't say they all shifted perfect. But what I do know is that when I downshift from either 4th or Neutral it will never grind even when I don't Rev Match or "Blip" the throttle. So it can't be syncro's in my opinion.
So what I've done to the car to rule out some problems were:
- Change the gear oil from what ever it was before to Royal Purple 75W-90 (NO luck.)
- Then I added a short shifter and adjusted my cables properly (still No luck)
- Finally I noticed my shifter was sloppy and one of my bushings were torn so I bought 42 DD's metal bushings and the shifter did stiffen up a lot, however!!! (No luck)
I know it's not my driving technique because I watch my foot depress the clutch fully and then I gently push it into third. I also know I'm shifting correctly because I can double clutch and normally shift through every other gear properly without any grinds or clunks. Just the devilish 3rd gear.
I would like to hear the solution. I'm going to change the oil one more time to Redline MT-90 and see how that goes, but if that doesn't work I might just tear apart or get a new tranny.
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I've got a friend with a 1990 Toyota 4Runner Manual transmission with ~170k miles on the clock. He's been having an issue for quite some time that he hasn't been able to be resolved. Basically he's got an issue with the vehicle erratically NOT starting when it is hot outside. The vehicle starts fine when it is cold outside, but when it is hot he erratically (only happens sometimes) get a "click" noise from the engine compartment with no engine turn over or anything. He is then at the mercy of the vehicle and sometimes just has to try multiple times or wait it out for awhile and try again. Sometimes just opening the hood, looking around a minute, closing it, and re-trying is able to get it to start, but other times not. Other times, and I quote from him, "sometimes i just get really upset and stomp on the clutch, get out of the truck and just shake/rock it, sometimes that'll do it." It happens if the engine is cold or hot, it only matters that it is hot outside, above ~90 degrees. Below is a list of stuff that has been done to try and resolve the issue, but hasn't really worked.
Steps taken:
Replace Battery
Replaced the Alternator 2 years ago
Replaced the Battery Connectors (some were corroded)
Possible Starter Replacement within the past 5 years (double checking paperwork)Rewired jumper wire from battery to starter
Seems sensor or solenoid related to me, but I'm unfamiliar with this vehicle/quirks.....
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What could be the cause of this? Have replaced the park/neutral safety switch and the Toyota Mechanic found loose wires on the Master Plug-In and repaired the Ignitor Connector. The computer generates no code to identify a problem. Problem still not fixed. I eventually get it to start but do not know why. Fuel pump replaced a couple of years ago.
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica that won't seem to start after I've driven it awhile. After sitting, it takes around 4 or 5 hours for it to start again (although this is highly variable). The first start of the day is always normal. Recently it will stall at idle, then have trouble starting up. The engine seems to "try harder" to start if I press the gas.
The weird thing is that I was able to start it up easily today by popping the clutch. This has been a problem I've been struggling with for a few months, and over that time I have replaced the starter, battery, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, and EFI/Main Engine relays. It always cranks, just no start.
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Yesterday, I was driving on the highway at a 65-70 miles per hour (basically pushing it for my '96 RAV4). Suddenly, the car turned off. The engine cut out and the battery and oil signal came on. It did not lurch as if I had popped the clutch, nevertheless, I went to restart it as I was going down the hill and it made it home for the next 40 miles.
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I have a 97 Geo Metro two door that just stalled on me one day driving up a hill. It was low on fuel and so I thought it might have just ran out of fuel. I put more fuel in it but it would not start. I had it towed back home and disconnected the hose out of the fuel pump to see if any fuel would spray out. It did not. This lead me to conclude the fuel pump is bad. I replaced the fuel pump but this still did not fix the problem. I had an electrical guy looking at it run a bypass wire to the fuel pump and it still did not work. His conclusion was that the ECM is bad. Does this sound like a logical conclusion?
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2002 4Runner 4x4, 180K miles. I bought this car about a year ago and don't know anything about its history before that but it seems to be in good shape.
About every month or two I take a trip that includes driving a few miles on a dirt road. It is a graded road in pretty decent shape. What has happened about 6 times during the year is that the CEL comes on while I am driving on the dirt road. The car continues to run well. When I get home and hook up my code reader the code is always P0420 Catalyst efficiency below threshold.
To save everyone the trouble of looking that up, this code indicates that either the upstream or downstream A/F Ratio sensor is bad. If both sensors test good then it is probably a bad cat.
What is different here is that after I clear the code, the CEL stays off as long as I stay on paved roads. So to summarize, I don't get the code every time I drive on a dirt road but every time the CEL has come on it is while I was on a dirt road.
So it seems that something about driving on a dirt road causes the CEL. Two obvious things you get on a dirt road are dust and vibration. What could be causing this? I did a visual inspection of the whole exhaust but did not see anything obvious such as cracks or leaks.
And of course I could live with this if I have to since it comes up under such limited circumstances. I just like to keep my cars running properly.
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My 2000 Toyota Camry V6 died while driving the other day. At the shop they were able to start it but said it was misfiring but it didn't cut off when they were driving it. They recommended a tune-up to replace spark plugs and "wires" but admitted they weren't sure what the problem was. I haven't had a tune-up in awhile, actually not sure when the last time I had one was (if ever!). Would this cause it to die while driving?
Should I invest in a tune-up even if it doesn't fix the problem?The battery is about 3 months old. The master and slave cylinder were recently replaced (about 6 months ago), timing belt and water pump and hoses were replaced a couple of years ago.I have high miles, about 260,000 and love this car and have needed very little work and has been a very reliable car. Would love to continue driving it!!
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My car would start, drive some 35 miles, and after a wait of an hour, wouldn't start again. The battery was replaced and the next day, same problem. The alternator and starter test fine and I am told that the problem is in the "computer" - the security system is telling the auto lockup to occur. The red security light on the dashboard does come on after driving a short distance. I am told the "computer" will cost about $1100. Does this sound like the probable cause and a reasonable cost to repair?
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Some background. I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 2WD with about 150,000 miles. A few months ago the check engine light was flashing when I am travelling over 70mph. The dealership said nothing is wrong when I asked them to look into it. But I didn't get any codes from it. I read on-line that it could be a possible misfire so I changed the plugs and wires.
A few weeks ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it to a dealership to diagnosis the problem, they came up with Mass Air Flow sensor was shot. I replaced that, and reset the computer. It still comes on and flashes at highway speeds. I bought a low end computer to read the codes.
I got P300 (Random/Multiple Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire) and P305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire). Cylinder 5 has the coil-pack and Cylinder 2 has the wire coming off the coil-pack for Cylinder 5. So I replaced the coil-pack. The light is still coming on and flashing. How to stop the light from flashing. It comes on only when I am travelling past 70MPH. I have tried just rev'ing the engine up to the same RPM's as I am running when doing 70, but the light doesn't flash then.
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I have narrowed down my starting issue to a faulty relay(409). When I pulled the relay and cleaned the contacts and reinstalled the pump primed and the car started. Car will idle for about a 1/2 hour and out of the blue it shuts off. If I try to restart, 9 times out of 10 it does not start. If i tap the relay, it starts right up. If the car is running and I tap on the relay the car stutters and if I tap it again it shuts off.
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This happens not all the time, can cold start and the car runs fine but then once its shut off then started for use again later it will shut down, sit on roadside for 2 minutes with key off and then restart and good to go again...its a random thing...the check engine light does come on...
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When going short distances, half mile to two miles, and I turn off the car it will not REstart. Dash lights come on but engine does not make a sound. No clicking, no engine trying to turn over, nothing. After the car sits for awhile and cools off it starts up with no hesitation at all. If on the road for several minutes the car does not have this problem no matter how far or how many times I turn it off and on. The battery checks out ok. Someone said it could be a ground wire loose. What do you think. Is this something I could do myself?
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The problem I'm having is it starts fine in the morning but when I shut it off it it takes about an hour to start back up ..
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Two wheel drive, small engine with two spark plugs per cylinder...clutch with five speed transmission. Over two hundred thousand miles on it. Drove it thirty miles on a rainy evening. Shut it off for about one hour and when I tried to restart, it just went click. Got towed thirty miles home. Replaced starter with brand new one and also new battery. Still nothing but click-click. Does start from clutch engagement when rolling. The trouble seems to be somewhere between the starter and the battery. What to do?
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Fuel injected 429 (same as 460). Will run for 10-30 minutes then stall and not restart until 5-60 minutes later. Has fuel pressure at rail.
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My 2005 4.6 supercrew is worthless for short trips.....I am freezing and pick any other ford to drive.....my v10 heats up totally in 5 minutes so I know something is not right.....I have changed the thermostat....( its been like this since new ) the fluid levels are perfect....what is up ?
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