Toyota - Sienna :: Left / Right Signal Not Working In The Morning Or When Weather Is Cold
Jan 16, 2007
I have a 2004 Sienna LE and it has left/right signal problem (not working) in the morning or when the weather is cold. The problem usually last for about 5 to 10 minutes until the inside car temperature becomes warm.
When this problem happens the emergency lights are working. Only the signal left and right do not work.
Is this a common Sienna problems? I brought the car to the dealer but they refused to fix it because they cannot duplicate the problem. I am guessing when the warranty has expired, they will make suggestion to replace the part but not until then.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna. At first I noticed that the dashboard light showing the left turn signal was on would light up when I put on the headlights. A few days later, I discovered that the left turn signal stops working when I apply the break. Also, when I'm using cruise control and use my left turn signal, the cruise control stops maintaining speed.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna xle that started running rough when the weather turned cold. When started, the car idles very high and will not shift properly until it was been running for around 5 minutes. After that it will run well for about 10-15 minutes and then begin to run rough or poorly. The problem is very noticeable at low speeds and when stopped. It never actually kills, but it feels like it is going to. At high speeds it is less noticeable but occasionally you will feel it jerk or chug like the transmission is slipping or a belt or something.
I took it to a mechanic who checked the codes and found that the ignition coils were supposedly bad. I say supposedly because they replace three of the ignition coils and the problem still persists. I then took it back to the mechanic who then told me it was the oxygen sensor. The o2 sensor was replaced and the problem is still there with no noticeable improvement. I again to it back to the mechanic who tells me that they scratching their heads.
I have done some looking around on the internet and have found some discussions that seem to have some promising leeds and actually last weeks car talk show had a caller who described a similar problem. The guys told him it could be a oxygen sensor but they thought a better possibility would be EGR valve or a vacuum leak. Not sure if this sienna has an EGR, but I plan to suggest looking into it to the mechanic. Also, I found some discussions talking about the idle control valve and the engine control module.
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My 1991 Acura Legend LS does not start in cold weather and in the morning. Once it does, it keeps on starting and runs great. Prior to catching and starting it rattles and shakes and when I press the accelerator, it makes sounds like it is not getting enough air. The problem occured abruptly after a mechanic tried to find out why the radiator fan does not come on. That has been fixed by putting a new relay. The car has 176,000 miles and has never given starting problem before.
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I have a p2195 trouble code with my 2007 Toyota Sienna CE. This is O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1. I am assuming I'll need to replace this sensor. It's a little confusing but if I am reading my Haynes manual correctly, the repair goes as follows:
The sensor for 2007 and later models will be in the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter. To remove it, it's necessary to remove the passenger seat, disconnect and snake the pigtail through the grommet in the car floor. Then, disconnect the O2 sensor from underneath the van and replace.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Sienna. For the last year or more, at times -- especially when going over small bumps -- there's a rattling sound that sounds like it's coming from the left front wheel. The steering is tight and there's no vibration in the steering wheel itself. My mechanic checked everything -- including the brakes (and the caliper pins). I am not eager to replace the struts on the hunch this might be the cause, because it might not be, and that's expensive, especially on an old car which we don't drive much.
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I bought a brand new 2005 Toyota Sienna and since then have nevered got any warm air to come through the rear vents. Only the front passenger and driver gets the heated air. The back rear get only cold air.
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One vent on drivers side does not put out cold air. 2010 Toyota Sienna....
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna with 115,000 miles on it. After about 15 minutes of driving, a vibrating buzzing dentist-drill like sound begins to come from the back left of the car (this is also where I put in the gas if that has anything to do with it). I do not know what it sounds like from the outside but its definitely a buzzing sound from the inside. As I increase in RPMs the buzzing sound gets more and more high pitched.
I do not drive this car very much, but about a month ago I was driving down a mountain using the breaks a lot and the buzzing sound started for the first time with a rubber smell. At this point because of the rubber smell, we just thought it was an issue with the breaks and after taking a 20 minute rest, the car drove the rest of the 400 miles or so perfectly fine without any buzzing. I don't use the car very much because I am in college, but when I do, like I said, after 15 minutes this buzzing starts.
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I have a FWD 2009 Sienna with 62k that vibrate on cold days. It only vibrate when the shifter is on drive or reverse while stepping on the brake. There is no vibration while driving, only when I'm at a stop light. After the engine warms up, the vibration goes away. I can feel the vibration on the steering wheel. I just want some kind of knowledge before taking it in.
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The rear vents in my '09 Toyota Sienna minivan do not blow heat, only cold. The vents up front work just fine, but when I turn on the rear heater (whether from the front controls or from the rear controls), my kids get iced. They never blow heat, even after long periods of time. (Also, the upper vents in the back do not blow strong, even on High, although the lower one does). I heard something about an interior heat sensor, and about blend doors.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna Van that has 111,000 miles on it. I have a problem with both the heat and a/c. If you have the heat on but are just idling, it begins to blow cool air. Likewise, if you run the a/c but are just idling the air begins to blow warm. In either case, if you rev the engine (either in park or nuetral say at a red light), the air gets warmer if the heat is on, or colder if the a/c is on. In other words, the temperature only works correctly if the rpm's are up. Could this be a stopped up heater core.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Sienna. The radio has stopped working. All other electrical parts of the car appear to be in fine working order. I found the Radio-No.2 fuse (7.5A) beneath the dash and replaced it with the working 7.5A (working) turning signal with no luck. (The radio fuse DID work when placed in the turning signal fuse slot). So it cannot be this fuse.
Is there a Radio-No.1 fuse? Unfortunately, this car did not come with a owners manual. If so where would I find it?Or could this be a different problem? What else should I look for.
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I have a 99 Toyota Sienna with an automatic sliding door that has failed. Cost to repair is high $$$. Would like to disable the motor and automatic mechanism and make it a regular manual sliding. Can it be done? If so need a repair shop?
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The power steering on our 98 Toyota Sienna sometimes stops working for a second. It only happens when the car is first started and usually when it is raining or has rained recently. I checked some old posts from Tom and Ray and found one that sounded similar. They said it was the belt being either wet or worn or not tight enough. Does that sound like what our problem is? It also squeals sometimes when you turn the wheel too much so it does seem like the belt could be slipping.
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When I turn on the heat, I only get hot air through the drivers side vent,the passenger side vent is very cold. I had it in to be worked on (at a Non-Toyota shop)and they tore it completely apart and could not diagnose the problem. It affects the entire system,meaning the air going to defrost is also hot on the drivers side and cold on the passenger side.
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So, until recently I had a 2000 Ford Focus but it was totaled in an accident not long ago and is long gone now. I was given a 1985 Toyota Tercel Wagon with about 194,000 mi by a family member. However, it has always had a problem whereby the brake pedal goes to the floor now and then and especially when it is cold in the morning. So, I took the car to a mechanic (hwy 64 auto, Raleigh, NC) and they replaced the Master Cylinder yesterday and bled the brake lines through the master cylinder.
The mechanic told me that the bleeder valves were too old and corroded to try to bleed them at each wheel and that they might break and then the caliper(s) would then have to replaced. Anyway, long story short, the brakes are WORSE after he changed the master cylinder and bled the lines from the master cylinder. Now EVERY time you first press the brake the pedal goes down then immediately you can "pump" them back up so either air in the lines or still a leak somewhere in the braking system. I do not want to spend anymore money (or at least very little money) on this car as too much has already been spent on other things before I got it and also after I got it.
Did the mechanic screw up or am I looking at a problem you have with some old cars where you start replacing parts in the brake system and then still have the problem or a new problem and then you wind up spending $800 replacing old crappy, worn out parts. What should I do? Did the mechanic screw it up or is it just time to send this old car to the scrap pile and crusher? Remember, I don't want to keep pouring money into this thing. I've already spent some money on it with other stuff lately.
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I have a 2002 Toyota sienna XLE, 95k miles. A few weeks ago I replaced the battery with a DieHard. Immediately after this, the right sliding door stopped working. A few days later the left side stopped working. Neither sliding door works in the manual mode, child proof feature is disabled. Fuses are good. Both doors click when any associated switch is activated but don't open. It was suggested by an owner of an older Sienna that the auto door computer needed resetting. Worth a try. His procedure involved disconnecting the negative side of the battery, waiting 3-5 minutes, reconnecting battery, use the key fob remote to open a door and then close it using the fob. Wait 10 seconds open and close same as before, doing this a total of 3 times. It didn't work, door clicks won't open. Tried again same results. This makes sense and my thinking goes that perhaps the sequence is different for a newer model.
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I have a 85 s10 Blazer that the left turn signal does not work. The emergency flashers all work & the right turn signals are fine. When I turn left signal on lights come on but don't flash dash light is on as well.
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The left turn signal blinker on Toyota works sometimes and not others. It is weird, it seems when the weather is cold, it works, warm weather it works sometimes.
The car is: 2002 Toyota 4-Runner, limited....
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During this week, most ppl at NA are experienced extremely cold weather, what I found is, the Prius can't do a great job to keep the front windshield clean under that kind of condition.
What I tried, front deforest bottom, or fan to front windshield and leg, both works fine for the middle area but not the top left side which is about 1/4 area of the windshield. It doesn't happen on my sienna. Usually I drive 5-10mins and the windshield are clean. What I guess is maybe the fan tunnel goes too straight to the windshield instead of blow to the rear area or maybe the outlet isn't wide enough to cover the side.
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