Toyota - Sienna :: Thumping Noise In Rear Passenger Side After Replacing All Pads And Rotors
Jul 10, 2015
Thumping noise in rear passenger side. I removed pads and rotors, inspected and found nothing wrong. I decided to replace the new rotor with same and the thumping is still there, but only with the brakes being used. Nothing felt in the brake pedel and the the van stops fine. So why the thumping noise?
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I have a Toyota Sienna 2008 mini-van. I need to replace my broken passenger side rear view mirror.
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I replaced my pads 3 months ago. Now I have a metal grinding sound (not squeaking). The mechanic says I need new rotors, and he will resurface the pads. I know I can replace the rotors myself; but do I need to resurface the 3 months old pads? If so; how will they resurface them?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Sienna van. My garage failed to check the brake shoes as requested, so I gouged the back brake drums and had to have them replaced. Shortly afterwards, whenever I brake, in the last 2-3 seconds before I stop there is a thumping noise from the right rear wheel. It will thump a few times, maybe 2-5 times, perhaps one thump per wheel rotation. I don't feel any pulsing in the brake pedal, and except for the noise braking seems normal. Could this be due to the shoe adjustment being too loose, so the shoe has room to pulse inside the drum?
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Ok so we just replaced our front and rear brake pads and had the rotors turned. Our rear brakes are fine but both our front brakes now make a clunking/popping noise when we brake.
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My 2002 Sienna has water pooling in the front passenger side. We pulled up some of the front carpet and it's soaking beyond the passenger side. We need to find out where the water is coming from. It correlates to rain, but we tried hosing the passenger door and front windshield but didn't see any water coming in.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Sienna and the passenger sliding door will not slide on its own. You have to tug on the door to get it to engage. The repair shop said the door needs a new actuator. How hard is replacing the actuator on sliding passenger door?? My brother thinks he might be able to do it???
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I have had that car, the best one I have ever owned, since shortly after Nine-One-One, a date some of you may remember.
I never open any door but the driver's door with the key. Several months ago, for some reason it occurred to me to try and see if they worked.
Nope, both the rear hatch and passenger's door lock would not open with the key. I assumed that the mechanism corroded up over lack of use over the years.
I thought, Well, crud. But, since I haven't used those door locks in over 12 years, I can probably get by.
I thought I had lost the spare car key when I was in Texas in December. To my surprise, I saw it on the key rack in the kitchen here in rural Mexico. I took it out to the car to check it out, and it opens all the doors.
I compared the keys, and one of the 'vanes' on the key I use all the time is a very tiny bit smaller than on the spare key. My guess is either that key never opened those two doors and I never noticed it. Or, it has worn over 12 years.
So, I guess when I get back to the States, I will have a copy made of the spare key. I am also going to post this on Sienna Chat for obvious reasons.
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When I turn on the heat, I only get hot air through the drivers side vent,the passenger side vent is very cold. I had it in to be worked on (at a Non-Toyota shop)and they tore it completely apart and could not diagnose the problem. It affects the entire system,meaning the air going to defrost is also hot on the drivers side and cold on the passenger side.
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So my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
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I had the strangest thing happen today. I started my 2004 TB EXT at the auto parts store (getting brake pads for my grand am), and a strange thumping started coming from the pass-side rear. I got out and popped the hatch. Sounded like it was coming from trim panel under rear window. I held my boot against the tailpipe, thinking maybe I broke a muffler mount; didn't work. Figured I'd try getting it home before something let loose. Sound went away about 100 ft down the road. I'm guessing it was something electrical.
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I've been noticing "Hissing Noise" coming from the rear passenger side (rear right hand side) of my 2011 Prius for a few days now. It sounds like the hissing noise is coming from the vent that's located on that side. Not sure what that does, but the hissing noise is usually present when I'm driving at 10MPH or up and it's gone when I'm less than 10MPH or at a complete stop. I have about 32K miles on the car.
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Chk engine light is on. Checked it at Advance Auto and indicated either cat or the O2 sensor (rear). So, I went to replace the O2 sensor and learned the hard way that you can't just unscrew the nut. I torqued off the stud to which the O2 sensor attaches. Muffler shop told me you need to heat up the stud/nut first to remove it. Oh well, lesson learned. So, I'm looking at replacing the pipe with the catalytic converter attached since I can't seem to fix the broken stud (or actually get the one I didn't break off). The problem is, my car is apparently a CA model and has the special cat on it. I live in VA. What sort of problems might I run into if I replaced the cat with a non-CA version? They are significantly less expensive. This is for a 2003 Toyota Siienna
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My car spun on ice, did a 360 and hit the barrier rail of the bridge. The rear bumper was all scraped up and got pushed pushed out on the passenger side. I've replaced it but I've been hearing a thumping noise from the passenger side tire (not sure rear of front) and this is only noticeable on expressway with smooth asphalt and only under wet conditions. The alignment was done after the accident but after taking the car to several service locations they did not hear any noise (we were driving in wet conditions.)
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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Getting the car ready to drive 1500 miles cross country, I took the car to a mechanic for a check up. I asked him to pay particular attention to a thumping noise from the right front side below the floor every time the car goes over a small bump at low speeds. The car has 128 K miles. He tells me everything checked out fine except the attachment points of the sway bars are worn and that is the cause of the noise. He said that apart from the nuisance factor its not a safety issue and that I could leave it alone. Alternatively, replacing the bar/s would cost around $300. What is a sway bar and what does it do. I'm planning to trade this car in about a year from now. Till then it will be mostly used in city driving and commuting. It will be driven around 12K miles a year.
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When driving I hear, not feel, a slight thumping noise that if I had to guess would say is coming from the passenger side front. When I let off the gas the noise becmes more prominent and you can feel the thumping. Also when I apply the brakes heavily the sound/feel goes back to the same as if I was driving. I'm thinking CV joint/axles or spindle bearings, but I cant understand why the condition is at it's worst when I'm coasting. Has this "noise while coasting" problem.
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I've been fighting with this noise for probably about 4 months now. I've replaced my strut mounts and strut bearings thinking they were shot, but this didn't even begin to stop the noise. I seem to be hearing it whenever the weight of the car is shifted. The best way to describe the noise is a tapping or high pitched thumping. It's definitely coming from the right corner of the car. Also, I have been hearing a grinding noise from that side when turning the wheel sharply to the left.
I was thinking this was because my brakes needed to be changed and the indicators were scrapping whenever I turned the wheels. I work full time and go to school, so I don't have a lot of time to figure out what's going on. That's why I'm posting here, so I can maybe get some insight before I have time to look at it this weekend. By the way, I have jacked the car up and shook the wheel to check the ball joint and wheel bearing. The wheel was very tight and I didn't feel any play at all.
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I performed brake maintenance today with my brother on my 2010 corolla CE, my front rotors were warped and my pads were used ( and also uneven) and I replaced both front rotors and pads.
The install went smoothly, my brother changed a couple of brakes sets and knew what he was doing and showed me up.
Took it for a spin, the brakes work very nicely ( i bought the ceramic wagner bundle ) but theres a slight grinding noise when driving, like the pads are touching and rubbing a bit too much on the rotor, but the driving is unnafected. Also, there's a sqealing noise coming from either side when you turn only.
Braking itself produces no noise whatsoever, only when you turn that it squeals.
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Whenever my car go over a bump or uneven road, it causes a thumping noise in the rear driver. I have ultra racing rear sway.
I have re-lubricated the bushing, and changed the oem end links to moog.
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I have a 2003 F-250 6.0L 2WD and I recently noticed a rattling thumping noise under the front end on the passenger side. I noticed the rattle shortly after I got new tires, which are a hair bigger than the tires I had on it before. I thought it might be my new tires rubbing since they were bigger but then I noticed the rattle when I had my wheel straight and also when not moving at all. I've been driving it for a couple of weeks now with this rattle and I've been able to determine that it rattles most when I am going downhill and turning to the left putting more of the weight of the truck on the front right suspension components.
After reading several threads my first attempt to find the problem lead me to the discovery of a worn sway bar bushing. I thought this was for sure the problem and replaced both bushings and end links. But the rattle didn't go away. Then I thought maybe it was a bad wheel bearing so I replaced the wheel bearings in both front wheels. Still no change. Lastly, I happened to find a loose ABS line in the front right wheel well that was no longer secured and was banging against plastic. I secured that and still no change. All the bushings seem to be in good shape so I am considering taking it to a mechanic since I don't want to just replace everything hoping that it solves the problem piece by piece.
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