Toyota - Sienna :: Smoke Started Coming Out Of The Front When Car Stalled / Air Filter Fire
May 16, 2015
I have a 2014 Toyota Sienna that I bought new last year that currently has 10,000 miles on it. I was driving home today when the car stalled, and smoke started coming out of the front. Firefighters came and took out the air filter, which burst into flames. They said they had never seen anything like it before. They looked over the air filter box thoroughly, said there was no more threat of fire damage but that it smelled like an electrical issue, and I had the car towed to the dealership. The dealer called me and said they "found" a cigarette butt and theorized that a lit cigarette was sucked into the air intake, which caused the fire, and furthermore, I would be responsible for paying for the damages, because it was an "outside event" that wasn't covered under warranty. I do not believe it was a cigarette, because the firemen found no evidence of one, and neither did I when I took pictures of the air filter box. So my question is, is this possible? If so, doesn't this seem like a pretty big design flaw? I'm concerned that the dealer is just making this up, so they don't have to pay for anything. If that's the case, how can I ever feel safe driving this car again?
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we have a 2002 Toyota Sienna Van; recently, there has been a smell like turpentine coming from the front passenger seat. We have tried spraying large amounts of the freeze on it to no avail.
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My wife stopped for gas at a Circle K, about two days later this Sienna started idling rough and missing. I put some Seafoam in it and it cleared up. About one week later, she gets gas again, at another Circle k,about two blocks from the other one. Again, the next day she comes home from work complaining of the van running rough. I took it out and it drove fine. Whenever this happens the Check Engine light comes on, so I ran a code reader on it and it tells me, "Miss detected on cylinder 3".
So I checked all the plug wires, took out the plug (which I had just changed back in Oct.) and checked it, it looked fine. I thought maybe it could be the coil, so I switched the coil to see if I got the same code reading on a different cylinder. I unhooked the battery to clear the code after switching the coils, started it up and still got the rough idle and code. I turned it off (the van) and go in the house, I come back out and start it and it's running fine. I go to the store and all is well, go inside the store for maybe 45 minutes, come back out and start it up, I get the rough idle and missing.
I ran the code reader on it again and cleared the code, then restarted it and it was running fine again. Whatever it is, it has something to do with starting the engine (a 3.1L). One time it will start up and drive fine, the next time it starts the rough idling and missing. I figured if it was the coil and I switched them and got the same code on a different cylinder I'd narrow it down, but so far it has been running normally.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna xle that started running rough when the weather turned cold. When started, the car idles very high and will not shift properly until it was been running for around 5 minutes. After that it will run well for about 10-15 minutes and then begin to run rough or poorly. The problem is very noticeable at low speeds and when stopped. It never actually kills, but it feels like it is going to. At high speeds it is less noticeable but occasionally you will feel it jerk or chug like the transmission is slipping or a belt or something.
I took it to a mechanic who checked the codes and found that the ignition coils were supposedly bad. I say supposedly because they replace three of the ignition coils and the problem still persists. I then took it back to the mechanic who then told me it was the oxygen sensor. The o2 sensor was replaced and the problem is still there with no noticeable improvement. I again to it back to the mechanic who tells me that they scratching their heads.
I have done some looking around on the internet and have found some discussions that seem to have some promising leeds and actually last weeks car talk show had a caller who described a similar problem. The guys told him it could be a oxygen sensor but they thought a better possibility would be EGR valve or a vacuum leak. Not sure if this sienna has an EGR, but I plan to suggest looking into it to the mechanic. Also, I found some discussions talking about the idle control valve and the engine control module.
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I have a 2005 gen 2 Prius, 106k miles. Recently in Florida, we had a heavy rainstorm, and I happened to drive it through a flash flooded road. Water was deep enough to reach my headlights. I was out within 10 seconds, then had my car towed. There was a clicking sound and white smoke (steam?) coming from under the hood. The car would start, and I could drive it if I wanted to. After talking to a mechanic, he said to let it sit for 30 minutes with the engine on. Like magic, it started to work like normal, check engine light went away.
Drove fine for 2 days, then the check engine light came back on. Had the codes read at autozone: P0103, and P0031. One day later, my car stalled out while I was driving, and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Red triangle, yellow exclamation, brake, abs, "problem" on mfd, etc. This site has saved me before, so I came on and thought it could be the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with MAF cleaner, but no luck. I order a new sensor, still no luck. My car stalls out seconds after starting it up. I cleaned my throttle body, still nothing.
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So I was going to get the truck washed, but 2 blocks down the road smoke out of the engine bay.
Pulled over popped the hood and the alternator is on fire. Extinguished it self out but the burnt electrical smell.....sheesh..
Anyways, could I potentially drive the truck to the dealer, or will it catch on fire again????
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I have a 2000 Ford F-350 V10 Triton that is currently not running. It all started when I was going to work at 7:00am it just shut off in the middle of the road. I had someone to take out of the road and found out one of the fuses had blown. It was replaced and not even a mile down the road it died again, luckily next to Orielly's. They came out and did a test and found out it was coil 10. I purchased and installed a new one and went down the road only to have it die again. I replaced the fuse again, and went back to Oriellys and just as I was backing into the parking spot it died, this time smoke coming from under the hood. The brand new coil had caught on fire but I extinguished the flame and got the coil unplugged before any damage happened. Replaced the same coil and it ran fine until I got home, let it idle and it was fine. Then, two days later I started it and it died, again smoke coming from under the hood but no flames or fire. Now cylinder 10 does not fire any more. What the cause is?
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The front brakes on my 2000 Toyota Sienna are dragging occasionally. I have replaced the front calipers (one of them twice), the master cylinder, and the ABS unit (with a junk yard unit). I have also shortened the master cylinder push rod to see if that would make a difference. The brakes still drag occasionally as indicated by the front hubs becoming excessively hot.
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I am noticing an audible vibration coming from the rear of my wife's 2004 Sienna van when applying the brakes. I have inspected and confirmed there are no fluid leaks,there is ample material left on all pads and the pads still fit snugly into the retention clips. Also, the pads and rotors show no sign of uneven wear. Front brakes were replaced in 2009.The van currently has ~63000 miles on it.
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My 2002 Sienna has water pooling in the front passenger side. We pulled up some of the front carpet and it's soaking beyond the passenger side. We need to find out where the water is coming from. It correlates to rain, but we tried hosing the passenger door and front windshield but didn't see any water coming in.
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Had my wheel bearings replaced 3 weeks ago from a mechanic I never went to, as mine was on vacation. 3 days later tire fell off while driving. So we took it to my regular mechanic and had all safety issues fixed. New brakes, rotor, hub. But noticed that a grinding noise appeared. Took it back to mechanic, and he said that it was due to the spindle being slightly bent. Thst it wasnt a safety concerns, but will cause rotor/ brakes to wear out quicker.
I'd like to trust my mechanic, as he has always done good work for me in the past. But am a little shaky over every noise. I'd he correct?How soon should I get it repaired? I just dropped over $600 to get the can drivable again. So if I can push it off until I can afford it that would be great! Otherwise, I might need a small loan to repair.
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I own a 1999 Toyota sienna that has 112,000 miles. For the past few months there has been a whirring noise that seems to be coming from the center engine compartment. It started quietly and now has increased in volume. It reminds me of a speedometer cable that is beginning to fail. I have taken it to my trusted mechanic for a diagnosis and he thought it was metal on metal noise from the transmission. I have owned cars for 40 plus years and have'nt heard of this type of tranny noise. What could be causing this? It makes this noise under power and when I release the accelerator the noise almost disappears. Also there is a clunking noise coming from the passenger front wheel after releasing the brake pedal when I come to a stop. I have replaced the strut,ball joint,and lower control arm bushing trying to remedy this. I cannot find anything else that is loose.
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So I started a "quick" strut job on my mothers 98 Toyota Sienna last weekend, after many complaints about a rattling noise on the passenger side while driving on semi smooth roads. I got in and found that the CV boots were gone, and there wasn't much grease in the boots, all the ball joints were loose, and the wheel bearings were starting to grind. So since the car is at 225,000 I ordered the parts and took Friday off. I started the job, and also found out that the inner tie rod boot was completely full of ATF(This cars power steering fluid). There was a massive 2 day struggle with the CV axle being rusted in the motor mount bracket. But I finally got it all replaced and back together.
So all told I ended up replacing the following parts; Power Rack, Inner Tie Rods, Outer Tie Rod Ends, Rear Lower Passenger motor mount, Strut Mount, Lower Ball Joints, CV axles, Wheel Bearings, Lower Struts, Upper Strut Mount, Fuel Filter, Brake Pads, Brake Hardware, Oil Filter, and the Oil. I got it all back together and just finished the test drive ONLY FOR THE NOISE TO STILL BE THERE!!!!! What did I miss? What could it be? Is there something simple I could have done wrong to continued to have the rattling noise? Also the steering wheel is off 20 degrees to the left, I could handle that, but its not my car and my mother says it needs to be fixed... PS I am planning on taking it in for an alignment, but it does drive straight down the road as it is.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Sienna. For the last year or more, at times -- especially when going over small bumps -- there's a rattling sound that sounds like it's coming from the left front wheel. The steering is tight and there's no vibration in the steering wheel itself. My mechanic checked everything -- including the brakes (and the caliper pins). I am not eager to replace the struts on the hunch this might be the cause, because it might not be, and that's expensive, especially on an old car which we don't drive much.
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Three weeks ago I started my truck as usual in the garage and let idle for couple minutes. Backed out of garage and accelerated, then it stalled, started again and drove about 150-200 feet and stalled again. This repeated two more times and then I decided I better try and "limp" back to the house. It has been in at the service dept. for three weeks now and they first told me it was the fuel pumps. Now they say its the fuel transfer pump, don't know if there is a difference.
My service dept has no straight.
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Over the last few weeks, I'd been smelling something. Today, I realized it must have been coolant. Today, my 225,000 mile, 2.3L 4cyl 5spd 1990 Camry started blowing smoke. When I parked, and gingerly touched the radiator, it was cool -- and empty. When I squeezed the upper hose, it crackled as if very dry. I drove the car about a mile and parked it at home.
When it cooled, I confirmed the radiator is empty -- except for a lot of reddish crud. A hint of the same reddish color on other engine parts MAY be from coolant spraying under the hood, but I'm not sure.
I couldn't tell from spots on the garage floor whether the coolant had leaked out there or not.
How should I proceed from here to address ... a) the leak, and b) any other damage caused by running the car dry?
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I have a 2004 F150 4x4 super crew with te 5.4L in it. Truck has 200K plus miles on it and I went to start it after driving (it may have say for 10 min) the truck hesitated and didn't start and smoke started coming from under the hood. Looked like it was coming from the drivers side maybe mid fender or closer to the firewall. Look at it and nothing was on fire but something defiantly happened cause now its compensating for something. The rpms are up from what they usually are and the drivers information was cleared. Truck runs now but just worried
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I have a 2000 2wd with the 5.4 in it. I tow a travel trailer and loaded is 6500lbs. Today leaving the campground I had to climb an extremely steep hill as soon as you left the campground. No time to build speed. The old Ex made it, but I was definitely worried. The truck ran fine the rest of the 2 hours home. I went to back my camper into its spot to store, and smoke started coming out from under the hood. When I crawled under it, tranny fluid was leaking on the ground. A pretty steady drip. I let it cool down, added fluid and drove around. Didn't leak anymore. Did the tranny just get hot and had to burp? The drip was coming from where the tranny connects to the motor.
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I have a 2004 prius with about 350k miles on it, bought it about a year ago and we have had our first trouble with it (it's been great so far, and when you consider it's mileage, pretty impressive).
We were driving along and a constant alarm started (beeeeep!!!) and lights on the dash lit up. I assumed it was cranky because the rear hatch wasn't closed or something and kept driving (we didn't have far to go). It wasn't long before smoke with a distinctive burnt electronics smell started coming up from the dash at the front left lower corner of the windshield. Then the brakes started to feel very unresponsive and sluggish (no regenerative braking either). She still runs and drives. So here is where I am now:
The car screams constantly and the brake light, ABS light and the (!) light are all lit.
I've been poking about and figured out that my inverter coolant pump isn't working properly. At this point I am wondering if this is just pure coincidence though (i.e. perhaps its not been working for awhile). I will be replacing this soon.
I checked the error codes and they all seemed to be un-related and or old (catalytic converter not working properly, ran out of fuel, etc). I cleared them and no new ones are populating. (car has only been driven around the block 3 times though)
The 12 V battery seems to be working fine, and it's getting the proper charging voltage. (voltage tested through the console under various conditions)
I have reset the braking system (bridging the #4 and #13 pins thing) and this turned the buzzer and lights off for about 20 seconds. Still no proper brakes. And of course the noise and lights just come back. Still no error codes via my Bluetooth reader and smartphone.
I have my doubts that replacing the inverter pump will fix this brake issue. I am familiar with working on cars, but this is my first foray with 1) a modern car and 2) a Prius. (Previous cars are all mid 90s or older, so I'm a little bit overwhelmed here...)
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I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey touring model. Recently I had it serviced at the Honda dealership. In addition to my requested front end alignment and oil and filter change, they talked me into a radiator flush, fuel inj. service, air filter replacements and battery service. I drove the car home after wards even filling up with gas before going home. This drive was about 55 miles. I never noticed any problems. The next day, I left for Montghomery AL towing a trailer with a motorcycle trike on it. We stopped for lunch and continued. The car suddenly started making a grinding noise from engine compartment and suddenly white smoke started coming out from the hood. I immediately pulled over and we got out of the car for fear of fire. This was the first time I had any indication of a problem.
After a short time, I opened the hood to see what was wrong and noticed that the radiator cap was sitting upside down next to opening. I had the vehicle towed to Chattanooga where I was told there was serious damage to the engine. I had them repair it (they were an AAA approved towing and repair shop). I also took pictures of the engine compartment. I went back to the dealership and asked to be reembursed for my expenses and the cost of repairs and the owner refused. He said he didn't believe they left the cap off and since he started out in the service department he didn't believe the car could even go that far without overheating. My question is: Is it possible for a 2007 Honda Odyssey to travel approximately 220 miles over two days before overheating and wrecking the engine if the radiator cap was left off and/or if no fluid was even added and the radiator cap was left off?
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Last night I bought 2000 F250, 346k on it... Crew cab short bed 4x4 with ranch hand bumpers like I wanted .... Headed back home (Miami FL ~1100mi) and covered about 200 miles @70-75mph before i ran into few problems ....
First off, while cruising I noticed slight hesitation in the throttle, with loss of speed regardless of pedal pressure, noticeable on inclines. It would go away on downhill and get smooth response again and pick up speed. This went on for about 40 miles.
Then I noticed heater blower stop blowing hot and start blowing cold, without me changing any settings. At the same moment, I noticed temp gauge move up and I hit next exit offramp to check what's up. During right turn at the end of off ramp truck stalled. Pulled to the shoulder, and popped hood.
Noticed empty degass/overflow bottle. Carefully opened lid and water gushed up to the top. When all pressure slowly released, water pulled down and emptied the bottle. Both upper and lower radiator hoses are empty. Engine oil has no traces of water tho. There were no leaks under the truck. I then tried to fire up the truck to get me to the gas station 1/8th mile away.
No crank in Park. WTS comes on and goes off. Cranks in Neutral, RPMs come up some, oil pressure shoots up to normal running position, but won't fire. Tried a while then gave up as not to kill starter and batteries completely.
Fuel pump works 20 sec then shuts off. There is fuel in bowl. I covered 140 miles since last full fill up, so not fuel pickup issue I don't think.
Summary
Have crank
Have RPM
Have oil pressure
Have fuel
Have (had) batteries, now not so hot
It's cold out ....
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