Toyota - Sienna :: Headlights And Dash Illumination Lights Will Intermittently Flicker
Feb 17, 2014
My headlights and dash illumination lights will intermittently flicker when I use the turn indicator to signal a right hand turn. Is it possible that there is a short in the turn indicator/high-low beam headlight control switch that is causing this?
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I have a 1981 F100, lately when I've been driving at night I notice my headlights, dash lights, and charging light will flicker at the same time, and even sometimes my headlights will flash on and off by themselves.
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I have a 1998 Sienna (at 300k miles I want to drive until it’s dead) and the dashboard has lost illumination in several bulbs. The fuses are good and the bulbs seem fine, but there is a bad connection somewhere. I would like to start cleaning contacts in some of the junctions before tearing the dash apart again.
Which brings me to the big question: where should I look for connections that I can clean so I am sure the electrical system is providing a proper current to the dash bulbs? Besides the idiot lights (working), all I have at the moment is a single bulb that illuminates half the speedometer, while the tach and rest of the dash and air conditioning controls are dark.
As I’ve had other wiring harness connections become corroded and need cleaning over time, need to determine where to begin opening connections to clean before tearing the dash apart.
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My dash lights have a weird glitch when the headlights are on. I can hear a click and the dash lights will go out and immediately back on almost like a blink.
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I know I'm not the only one that think the dash illumination lights are too bright! Even when turn turn them all the way down, yes they go down but still too bright. Any mod to make the inside lights dark? I have thought about buying tint and tint the over the speedometer and the clock and radio... Not sure how it would hold since its plastic......
I use my personal car for side work (at night) and need sit in my car and if the car is running and I cut all the lights off, and use the emergency brake to cut the day time running lights off, the dash lights go bright...wtf. I've also thought about removing the fuse for the lights, but I read the same fuse is used for the airbags as well.....
2011 Sonata GLS
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I've seen This Problem discussed about GMC models but not Toyota Avalon. Why does my '97 Avalon ABS & Track Off dash warning lights Continually flash on occasion? Also, on occasion while making a turn, my car just shuts off! So far, it's started right up without stranding me.
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I've got a 2005 Honda CRV that I love everything about except one thing that really annoys and scares me.
The headlights and instrument lights "twinkle" or shimmer. Like they pulsate in intensity bright and dim 2- 4 times per second.
I've read threads in some forums and have heard of many other people experiencing the same problem but no solid solutions.
I've heard, low battery, bad battery connection, loose ground somewhere, loose alternator belt or faulty alternator, short in the wiring harness, or replace the dashboard computer.
I've checked many of these things but to no avail.
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Series 7 , 82 model, light switch drama. I think they worked fine before I had removed the dash but it has a multi plug that I never interfered with but the truck had been in water and the contacts on it were rusty and I know the unit has been submerged.
Anyway, the unit clicks and sort of buzzes and the headlights and side lights flicker and the rear LED lights barely flicker, need to watch closely. I have cleaned and used contact fluid all connections under the truck as I washed it the other day too.
Brake lights work perfectly, indicators too, just associated lights from this pull switch. The unit gets hot, not burning hot but hot enough not to hold for too long. So, thoughts ?
Need new unit ?
Touched something ?
Water ingress finally making unit fail ?
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CHRYSLER CONCORD LXI 1999 - problem with INTERIOR LIGHTING . , EVERY SO OFTEN while driving.
My wife and I have had the car for about three years and it is immaculate - within the last year we replaced the computer.
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My wife stopped for gas at a Circle K, about two days later this Sienna started idling rough and missing. I put some Seafoam in it and it cleared up. About one week later, she gets gas again, at another Circle k,about two blocks from the other one. Again, the next day she comes home from work complaining of the van running rough. I took it out and it drove fine. Whenever this happens the Check Engine light comes on, so I ran a code reader on it and it tells me, "Miss detected on cylinder 3".
So I checked all the plug wires, took out the plug (which I had just changed back in Oct.) and checked it, it looked fine. I thought maybe it could be the coil, so I switched the coil to see if I got the same code reading on a different cylinder. I unhooked the battery to clear the code after switching the coils, started it up and still got the rough idle and code. I turned it off (the van) and go in the house, I come back out and start it and it's running fine. I go to the store and all is well, go inside the store for maybe 45 minutes, come back out and start it up, I get the rough idle and missing.
I ran the code reader on it again and cleared the code, then restarted it and it was running fine again. Whatever it is, it has something to do with starting the engine (a 3.1L). One time it will start up and drive fine, the next time it starts the rough idling and missing. I figured if it was the coil and I switched them and got the same code on a different cylinder I'd narrow it down, but so far it has been running normally.
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My 2005 Elantra has no running lights, a/c won't come on, dash lights don't come on, and lights flicker on the dash when I have started the car and it has been on for a few minutes. Where I can look for a short or possible main fuse box in the engine? All the fuses in the interior box are fine. Headlights, wipers, and radio all work fine.
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The issue being that my interior, tail and sometimes dash lights have begun to flicker while the engine is running. It's noticeably worse upon cold start, however, once the engine warms up the flickering improves a bit. Also noteworthy, is just after starting the voltmeter jumps around between 14-14.5 volts. When the car idles down it settles at 14. My left side battery is sitting at 5 years old and when just the electronics are on it hovers around 13 volts. Am I looking at a failing alternator or voltage reg? Or perhaps a loose connection or iffy fuse or ground somewhere. The car does not idle roughly and I am not hearing or smelling anything that isn't normal. I just had both vcg, valve body, and tie rod ends done. I do not have a vag yet, but I was wondering if there is any for of troubleshooting I can do before she goes back in?
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While driving I turned on my headlights and my car became possessed. My warning lights started to flicker on and off, my car was dinging out of control. The speedometer, gas, and RPM gauge went to zero. My brights light would not come on. My dinging for the lights being left on, or the key being left in the ignition, after the car is parked, and the door is open, will not go on either. I turned my lights off and all was well. Turned them on again and the same thing happened.
Now, the following day, it is doing this periodically every couple of minutes while I'm driving, whether the lights are on or not. My radio and head lights work fine. I checked all my fuses and they all seem to be AOK. I disconnected my car battery and reconnected it to see if it would reset and it still did the same thing. One other strange occurrence. The last month or so while I've been driving my battery light came on for a few minutes. I had the battery checked and it is not bad. Then last week my gas-cap warning started to randomly appear. I changed my gas cap, and guess what.....it still came on, at random.
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After starting my truck the dash warning lights (oil, battery, brake, low fuel) stay lit and flicker for 20-30 seconds then go out with the exception of the battery light. It remains dimly lit for 2-3 minutes before finally going out. The battery and alternator have tested OK. I cleaned the battery ground connections andreplaced the check light relay. Still the same situation. '86 Nissan Hardbody Pickup ....
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2004 Jetta Turbo Auto ...
"I inadvertently had my foot on the brake and lights on for awhile when the car was not started. Ignition on. then when i went to start it, it made a clicking sound inside the car (not at the engine) and the lights on the dash flickered. during that time i was initially still able to turn on radio, turn on headlights, use power locks, etc so i don't think it was the battery (tried jumping it and it did not jump start). maybe it's the starter?
Starter had given no problem previously. Or is there an interlock or module that could be keeping it from cranking?
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I have a 1997 F250 that I am fixing up. The issue is this... The dash lights now flicker off when I place the transmission in Drive position. I can slightly move the slack in the gear selector and the lights come back on. When the transmission is in Park, the dash lights work correctly. Not sure why there is some type of switch to control the dash lights buried within the steering column?
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so on my way home the interior lights started to dim then out of no where the abs and traction light came on as soon as i pulled up to my house the headlights started to flicker radio shut off gauges flickered off and climatronic shut off now the cars dead would this be the alternator? Car is vf stage 2 supercharged....
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So I've got the exact same issue as the person who posted this: [URL] ....
Brake lights not working on Toyota Sienna 2005 XLE after emissions testing connected to the dataport. Went to the Toyota dealership this afternoon and it looks like a wiring issue. Also found out when the left blinker is engaged, it blows the 10A STOP fuse which then causes the ABS and VCS(?) lights to illuminate. What a mess....
Is the easiest way to fix this just to run a new wire to the affected area? The folks at the dealership seemed to suggest they were going to need to rip out all the interior to find the break in the circuit. Timing-wise, this problem starting happening right after I went to get emissions checked and they plugged a cable into the data port to pull emissions(?) and other data.
My hunch is that these two events are directly related but I don't have much knowledge of how things are wired up , what might have caused this problem.
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I just picked up an 01 F150 2wd for my daughter. I've noticed that the light up odometer has no illumination when the headlights are off, and when I turn the headlights on (to illuminate the gauges) I get just the faintest bit of light of the numbers of the odometer. It's so dim that unless it's nearly dark outside you can barely even tell it's lit up. The dimmer dial for the gauges is turned all they way up to max before the dome light comes on.
The LCD display for the odometer wouldn't use a traditional filament style bulb for light, so I'm at a loss right now.
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I have been having a problem with my dash lights intermittently going out. They are out for good now. My interior lights, license plate lights, climate control and glove box lights are out as well. The fog lights work only if my high beams are on.
I have replaced all 5 and 10 fuses. I am wondering if I have a relay out, I don't really know anything about them except their location. I'm putting a friends light switch in tomorrow to see if that's it. I have a euro switch.
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I have a 2000 Honda CRV, standard transmission. Within the last 2-3 months, I have had my battery, starter, and radiator replaced. Three times in the last month, I have turned my car on and the headlights and dashboard lights won't come on. However, the break lights, blinkers, and other interior lights come on. The first time, I shut the car off and left it over night and the lights all worked in the morning. The second time this happened, I just turned the car lights on and off a few times, and they came back on. When it happened this evening, I tried turning the car and the lights on and off, but no luck. I took the car to a mechanic after it happened the first time. He said that because it wasn't happening then, it would be really hard to diagnose.
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