Toyota - Sienna :: Clicking Noises Due To Some Of The Door Welds Breaking Off
Aug 11, 2008
I own a 2005 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited. Awhile back, I received an TSB announcement for possible clicking noises due to some of the door welds breaking off.
Well, I am getting very loud clicking noises and I'm afraid I'm affected by the TSB.
I called one dealer around me and he said it will take the 3 days because they have to send it to a body shop to have them take the doors apart, weld around the doors, then possibly repaint the door due to the paint being affected by the heat from welding.
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Lately my Sienna makes this noise whenever it is started. The noise lasts for 5-10 seconds. It builds up very loud towards the end and then stops abruptly. I made a recording of the sound and have attached it.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Sienna with approx. 130k miles. Recently I am noticing when driving on the highway that I get a humming/ringing sounds. It gets louder and softer as I drive. It is not always there but when it does make that sound, it is when I am over 65 mph. If I tap the brake it immediately stops but then if I hit the gas it starts again. Also sometimes when I tap the brakes (not on the highway) I do get a screeching sound. I've taken it to the mechanic and he checked my brakes and says they are fine. I just got two front tires thinking it was that but it is still there. Is there anything else that I should consider? Should I go get a second opinion on the brakes since the sound stops as soon as I tap the breaks?
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I have a intermittent problem with the abs. when I go around a right hand curve there is a clicking sound. This happens between 30 and 40 mph. When I go around a left hand curve the brakes will grab, with the skid i-con illuminate , but no fault code. I have had the toyota dealership looked at it. But they couldn't duplicate. I also had a independent mechanic look at it, he put the computer on it.
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I have a 99 Toyota Sienna with an automatic sliding door that has failed. Cost to repair is high $$$. Would like to disable the motor and automatic mechanism and make it a regular manual sliding. Can it be done? If so need a repair shop?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Sienna and the passenger sliding door will not slide on its own. You have to tug on the door to get it to engage. The repair shop said the door needs a new actuator. How hard is replacing the actuator on sliding passenger door?? My brother thinks he might be able to do it???
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I have a 2002 Toyota sienna XLE, 95k miles. A few weeks ago I replaced the battery with a DieHard. Immediately after this, the right sliding door stopped working. A few days later the left side stopped working. Neither sliding door works in the manual mode, child proof feature is disabled. Fuses are good. Both doors click when any associated switch is activated but don't open. It was suggested by an owner of an older Sienna that the auto door computer needed resetting. Worth a try. His procedure involved disconnecting the negative side of the battery, waiting 3-5 minutes, reconnecting battery, use the key fob remote to open a door and then close it using the fob. Wait 10 seconds open and close same as before, doing this a total of 3 times. It didn't work, door clicks won't open. Tried again same results. This makes sense and my thinking goes that perhaps the sequence is different for a newer model.
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I have had that car, the best one I have ever owned, since shortly after Nine-One-One, a date some of you may remember.
I never open any door but the driver's door with the key. Several months ago, for some reason it occurred to me to try and see if they worked.
Nope, both the rear hatch and passenger's door lock would not open with the key. I assumed that the mechanism corroded up over lack of use over the years.
I thought, Well, crud. But, since I haven't used those door locks in over 12 years, I can probably get by.
I thought I had lost the spare car key when I was in Texas in December. To my surprise, I saw it on the key rack in the kitchen here in rural Mexico. I took it out to the car to check it out, and it opens all the doors.
I compared the keys, and one of the 'vanes' on the key I use all the time is a very tiny bit smaller than on the spare key. My guess is either that key never opened those two doors and I never noticed it. Or, it has worn over 12 years.
So, I guess when I get back to the States, I will have a copy made of the spare key. I am also going to post this on Sienna Chat for obvious reasons.
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Door clicks when opening or closing it? My drivers door makes all kinds of clicking noises every time I get in and out...
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Recently the smaller part of the door handle broke off - we were going to try to superglue it but realized that would be tricky considering the locking mechanism might not work.
Well now 2 weeks later, the door cannot be opened from the outside, even if the door is unlocked. We took the handle off, but now I am afraid to leave it as is, because it would attract a thief to break-in.
Does the handle is completely off can it be "jimmied" open? Is there a way to fix without replacing the entire door handle.
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I recently recognized a clicking noise from the passenger door when I open it half way or even fully.
up to now I'm still assuming its a lubing issue as it is really cold in here Ottawa, Canada.
I have read a thread that was talking about the same issue and the guy found that there was a bolt wasn't tighten enough from the factory that caused the clicking sound.
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In my 2003 Toyota Sienna, the ABS system comes on at low speeds. Since I will be trading in shortly, don't want to pay for costly sensor repair. Looked at fuse box to remove ABS fuse, and found 3 fuses that are labeled as ABS. Which should I remove?
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My Sienna's Got the Shakes! At around 30mph and higher, my 2004 Toyota Sienna starts with a constant vibration coming from the front end. It gets faster as the speed increases and it only happens when I'm accelerating... when I take my foot off the gas it goes away. I unknowingly bought the car with this problem, and I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to fix it or sell as is, but I'm getting stumped about the cause. A couple mechanics thought it is from bad motor mounts. I replaced the front mount because it was the easiest to access and could clearly be seen as cracked in the rubber. However, it didn't seem to change the vibration at all, and my mechanic then wasn't convinced that spending money on trying to replace the other mounts was going to do the trick. Another person took a look at it and didn't think it was the motor mounts either, but thought it was something in the drive train which would need to be checked out by the dealer which would be fairly costly. I would love to get it fixed because the rest of the minivan is in good condition.
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I bought a brand new 2005 Toyota Sienna and since then have nevered got any warm air to come through the rear vents. Only the front passenger and driver gets the heated air. The back rear get only cold air.
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I looked up the service history of a Sienna 2006 (have been planing to buy the minivan) and found that it had a few incidents with AIR BAG ON. When I initially searched for 2006 Sienna I mostly hit the door latch problems. Looks like the airbag issue has been reported on several blogs and there is no recall yet on this issue.
My question is, if I buy extended warranty, whether this would cover the repair cost or not. Or, should I stay away from 2006 Siennas? If so, which models/years should I avoid?
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My Toyota Sienna 2002 van has been stalling when I stop off and on for about 2 weeks. Most times it starts up again and continues to run. I can go days and it doesn't happen then yesterday it happened 7 times in the course of 10 minutes. I've had it connected to a computer diagnostic system three times, couldn't find any error messages.
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My 2010 Toyota Sienna alarm keeps going off randomly...there is no method to the madness. It happens after it's been running or not. It happens at all hours of the day and night. It can happen four times in a row and then not for days on end. It's literally driving me insane. I can stop it by pressing the unlock button on the remote. But it will often -- though not always -- do it a few more times after that. So, I open all the doors/trunk remotely and that usually puts an end to it for that period...but not always. But it always happens again...whether it's the next day or seven days later. The mechanic says they need to keep the car and hear/see it happen...but that means leaving my car with them for days on end, which I simply can't afford to do.
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My wife's 2005 Sienna is a very reliable vehicle. But occasionally when I drive it a fair distance--50 miles or so, but not always that far--the check engine light will come on. (It's something vague about emissions, but isn't it always?) And then a day or so after my wife drives it again, the light goes off. The van seems to run fine at all times. So is it something I'm doing when I drive it?
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Well, a serious problem may be pending on my 2002 Sienna. I get a lot of flats, and usually lose a tire on average each year, due to lots of junk on the roads and streets. So, in the last couple weeks, sometimes the tire light comes on, and I assume I have another leak. But, then it has gone out again after a while and the pressure is okay.
Yesterday, moderate temperatures, I drove only 3 miles or so, to visit friends. The car sat an hour or more. When I started it, the ABS light was blinking and the tire light was on.
I stopped the car, and re-booted, that is, turned it off, and started it again. Lights were okay. Today, I started it, and the ABS and tire lights were on, and not blinking. I re-booted the car, and they were okay.
Three things come to mind:
- Computer
- Bad or intermittent connections somewhere in the light system. The fact a re-boot fixes it tends to preclude this, but with electronics, there is no such thing as 100% sure anything.
- Ambient conditions. I normally park at the end of the house, but workers first put a dump truck load of sand there. Then, they moved in a couple pickups of laja (flagstone) with pieces from very small to maybe 150 pounds each piece.
So, I have parked along the house, and there is a roof drain which drains 500 square feet or more, with a 13 foot drop. I park with the driver's door maybe 3 to five feet from the place it hits. And, it has been raining lightly for the last couple weeks, and heavily the last three days. No water in the car body, but who knows what happens underneath.
I stopped typing and moved enough stones to park there again, and will be telling the workers they need to keep my parking place open for me.
I know we used to have problems with our electronics in private airplanes, and the fix was to install a liner inside the electronics access door. Electronics does not work well when submerged. I also checked with my new scanner, and no DTC; and no history at all.
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I have an 8 year old 2004 Toyota Sienna LE minivan. This past weekend I tried running the air conditioner when the temperature was in the low 80's (F) outside. Unfortunately, the AC only blew hot air, even though I drove a pretty long distance with the AC on.
I think the refrigerant has leaked out and is depleted. Whether or not I should attempt to recharge the AC by myself with my neighbor's assistance (he has all of the gear for recharging the refrigerant) or if this is a job that is better left to a professional.
Also, if I do attempt the job by myself, would it be better to try and seal the leaks with a dedicated sealant first, or should I use the canned refrigerant that also contains some kind of sealant?
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I have a 1998 toyota sienna with 170k. Yesterday when I was driving on the highway, the car turned completely off, and then after about 2 seconds started back up again. When it turned off, the electronics turned off along with the engine. I had no brake power, lost power steering, and couldn't even turn on the hazards. It did it 2 more times before I got home.
The second time, I noticed that it did this when I turned on the headlights. This time the engine stayed on, but the speedometer and tachometer went nuts (bouncing up and down) and all of the console lights turned on and off. When I turned the headlights off, everything went ok. When I got home and turned the car off, it went dead. Haven't tried starting it today, but the battery light went on dimly when I put the key in.
Took a quick look at the battery. The terminals are corroded. I'm going to clean them today, but I'm feeling that it won't do much. The battery light didn't turn on, so I'm thinking that the alternator is ok (am I wrong?). Since the electronics and brakes died when the engine died, I'm thinking it's not the distributor coil. Is my ecu fried?
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