Toyota - Sienna :: Check Engine Light Won't Stay Off
Oct 6, 2012
My check engine light won't stay off. My mechanic keeps replacing things. He says its got to be the exhaust system. I was wondering if its something electrical or within the car's computer system. First time he replaced one of the catalytic converters. The light went off then reappeared several days later. He replaced the oxygen sensor. Light off again then back on 2 days later. Then he replaced the other catalytic converter. (I was told there are 3 of them). Once again the engine light went off but reappeared 2 days later.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
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My girlfriend's 2001 Toyota Corolla has a recurrent Check Engine light problem. It has 144,000 miles on it. For the last few years, we have been unable to keep the light turned off. We have replaced the oxygen sensors and cleaned the MAF sensor. Our mechanic can't find the problem.
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Installed new egr valve and check engine light still won't stay off...
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Check engine light flashed for a very brief period, car ran very rough, and then check engine light (exhaust system malfunction) stayed lit. Took to dealer this AM and service advisor asked that I bring it back on Monday morning (loaner promised) but in the meantime, I could continue driving it unless the engine light started flashing. Car is now running okay, but last night it seemed to be running on only 6 or 7 cylinders. Only 93 or 94 octane gas is used and I've owned enough German cars to know how the gas cap should be tightened. Seemed like an oxygen sensor malfunction last night but now I'm not certain.
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I Installed an HID kit and after starting the car for the first time the check engine light stayed on and shortly after the car started moving the trac orange light came on too.. its a pic of a car with sliding marks below it. What could be causing this??
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I have a small problem with my 2011 Camry base model manual transmission. I replaced my rear view mirror and installed the EC homelink with compass rear view mirror as the replacement. I followed the instructions and it works fine but after connecting the battery again and turning the car on my check engine light stays on. I had the same problem when I installed my HID head light kit and I disconnected the battery and apparently it reseted the computer because the check engine light turned off, but I tried to disconnect and reconnect the battery twice now after installing the mirror and my check engine light is still on. How to reset it?
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My wife drives a 2004 passat 4 motion 1.8 T that for a couple of days has been acting up. By acting up I mean it will turn over but won't start. When this happens and after letting the key out of the start position, the epc and cel light will stay on. After letting it sit for a while it will start.
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I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
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I jump started my santafe becouse the battery was weak. After it started the check engine light on the dashboard came on and it stays on. What could the problem be.
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What are the common misfire problems with the mk4 R32? My R is acting funny every once in a while it runs perfect then some other times it seems to big and the check engine light starts to blink but doesn't stay on I ran for codes and it said I had a miss fire but after that the code never came up again but it still blinks.
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I just joined this forum some minutes ago, I own of a 2004 XC90 T6 AWD, delivered to me a couple to days ago, just barely getting to know the car, hear a knocking sound from the front passenger seat when i drive on rough roads, and this morning check engine warning sign remained on while driving out, had to park the car at home.
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I looked up the service history of a Sienna 2006 (have been planing to buy the minivan) and found that it had a few incidents with AIR BAG ON. When I initially searched for 2006 Sienna I mostly hit the door latch problems. Looks like the airbag issue has been reported on several blogs and there is no recall yet on this issue.
My question is, if I buy extended warranty, whether this would cover the repair cost or not. Or, should I stay away from 2006 Siennas? If so, which models/years should I avoid?
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Well, a serious problem may be pending on my 2002 Sienna. I get a lot of flats, and usually lose a tire on average each year, due to lots of junk on the roads and streets. So, in the last couple weeks, sometimes the tire light comes on, and I assume I have another leak. But, then it has gone out again after a while and the pressure is okay.
Yesterday, moderate temperatures, I drove only 3 miles or so, to visit friends. The car sat an hour or more. When I started it, the ABS light was blinking and the tire light was on.
I stopped the car, and re-booted, that is, turned it off, and started it again. Lights were okay. Today, I started it, and the ABS and tire lights were on, and not blinking. I re-booted the car, and they were okay.
Three things come to mind:
- Computer
- Bad or intermittent connections somewhere in the light system. The fact a re-boot fixes it tends to preclude this, but with electronics, there is no such thing as 100% sure anything.
- Ambient conditions. I normally park at the end of the house, but workers first put a dump truck load of sand there. Then, they moved in a couple pickups of laja (flagstone) with pieces from very small to maybe 150 pounds each piece.
So, I have parked along the house, and there is a roof drain which drains 500 square feet or more, with a 13 foot drop. I park with the driver's door maybe 3 to five feet from the place it hits. And, it has been raining lightly for the last couple weeks, and heavily the last three days. No water in the car body, but who knows what happens underneath.
I stopped typing and moved enough stones to park there again, and will be telling the workers they need to keep my parking place open for me.
I know we used to have problems with our electronics in private airplanes, and the fix was to install a liner inside the electronics access door. Electronics does not work well when submerged. I also checked with my new scanner, and no DTC; and no history at all.
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Having been on a long road trip, I noticed that every time I switch off the engine, there is a grinding noise coming from the engine. Took the van in to Toyota for a regular service, they could not find anything wrong. I then took it to an alignment place having replaced all four tires. They heard the noise straight away and think it is a worn bearing in the cooling fan in the alternator. 2007 Toyota Sienna LE FWD... The car only has 22,956 miles on it.
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2002 Toyota Sienna wobbles when engine under load and is more noticeable at certain speeds (like around 40 mph). The wobble is lateral in the body of the car and the steering wheel IS NOT vibrating.AutoMD web site suggests it may be the motor mounts. I did their diagnostic suggestion of putting the car in gear with the emergency brake on and foot on brake .. and revving the engine and letting up. I didn't notice a "knock" when the torque was released on the engine.My local mechanic is stymied ... says he checked the motor mounts, and front end mechanics and they are OK ...
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When it rains, it pours. My 2002 Sienna had a burned out headlight bulb the other day.
So, why am I even mentioning it? Buy a new 9003 bulb, open the hood, unplug the socket; pull off the rubber cover, twist the clip and take out the bad buld, and reverse it to put in the new one.
No one in town had a 9003. They did have 9004, but some on-line research said some bulbs have very precise placement for the filaments. While I am not sure 9004 is different wiring from 9003, why bother?
So, I dug in the box of used parts, found an old bulb I swapped out probably over 100,000 miles ago, grabbed some pipe cleaners and rubbing alcohol, and cleaned that old bulb and put it in. Works fine.
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I hit a pothole on I 55 going about 70 mph and the ABS/tire pressure lights went on. My gut feeling is that this is not serious, as the car is 14 years old (131,000 miles) and runs well. Figure it's just a sensor or connection issue or something like that. Is there a way that I can test to see if my ABS has stopped working without going to a mechanic? The tire pressure light comes on now and then at high speeds and usually means nothing.
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200 Toy Sienna-- Had a oil leak, got it fixed. Drove 15-20 miles and Engine dies on me. Tried to restart, ignition is fine, engine does not catch on. Got it towed to shed, left overnight. Mechanic explains that car has to relearn throttle - memory got reset etc. Car drives fine now. Mechanic says, it did not start the first few times, then all he did was turn on the key and step on the Gas!! Is that right? Or did he forget to to do something? Who's memory is not working?
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I have a 2000 Sienna van. My husband took it a shop for an oil change and now, the next day, there's an oil smell in the engine and it seems to be running hot. Here's the catch: it has a different engine from when I took it in last year to the same shop and they did an oil change and then the engine started smelling of oil, it ran hot, and after a few months the engine died (they told me checking the oil smell could wait and we were broke). I had to have the engine replaced. I would never have taken the van back to that shop! But now it's been there and I'm panicked! What should I do?
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This is a California car that won't pass smog tests with a lit check engine light. I don't know the specific code, but the description is that the torque converter is staying in the "off" position. Apparently the lock up torque converter is part of the emissions system in that if the torque converter does not lock up then the rpm's are higher and that produces more pollutants.
1st step was to flush out the transmission and the flush made sure all the fluid in the torque converter was removed and replaced. After that was done the trans fluid has stayed nice and clean and pink for about 400 miles. The CEL was turned off after this service but came back on in a few days at about 200 miles. Next, the solenoid that activates the torque converter was replaced. The CEL was turned off again, an this time the CEL came back on after a hour of driving on local errands.
Me and my generally good mechanic are hung up now. We were betting the solenoid change out would solve the problem. It seems that the torque converter is in fact operating properly. The tranny shifts smoothly and the rpm's drop at the proper times indicating the torque converter is locking up.
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