We had our Timing belt& water pump replaced 5 months ago, due to maintenance book suggestion for our 2006 Toyota Sienna LE, 119,000 miles on her. Now there is a leak in the R & P.
View 2 RepliesI just had my oil changed and was told that my rack and pinion was leaking also my valve cover leaked I had the gasket change about a year ago an the leak is so slight it wont even show up in my dip stick, is it possible the valve cover leak is getting on the rack boot. Also can I change just the boot car has 15000mi in great shape an well maintained.....
View 7 RepliesI took my 2010 Camry LE for its 70K service to the mechanic to find out there is a leak in the rack and pinion. The tech said that this might happen due the wear and tear as the seal might get eroded or so. He showed me the leaking part and interestingly I never found any oil leak on the garage floor until the day. Anyways I just got the basic powertrain warranty on my camera so will have to take the repair costs on my own. They suggested replacing the rack and pinion with a quote of $1.4K (out the door which includes tax, labor and wheel alignment etc). Not sure if its a rip off being a novice in the auto field. Now my question is, is there a way to get this leak sealed or should i go for the replacement of rack and pinion? Also is it dangerous to drive around in the car which has this leak?
View 4 RepliesHow do I replace the rack and pinion in my 2005 Dodge Caravan? Looking for a step by step. Id much rather do it myself.
View 1 RepliesMy Sienna 2005 experience intermittent complete brake failure 3 times within 18,000 miles,the brake pedal goes to the floor and it does not slow down, so I coast until I stop. However, when I release the brake pedal and then reapply the brakes, it works fine. A non-Toyota mechanic thinks it's due to malfunction of ABS. The dealership is unable to finds error codes and brakes work fine when the Sienna is in their hands. I scared that the brakes will not work the next time I reapply the brakes.
View 30 RepliesI just finished my first MK4 steering rack replacement (don't work on too many VWs), and when I placed the steering shaft from the column onto the shaft from the rack and bolted it down, there was still some clearance (see photo). I was able to get the bolt tightened down ok, but the clearance is bothering me.
View 2 RepliesI've been getting a lot of noise out of my rack and pinion in my 03 Eclipse. What would cause this noise? It happens when I'm sitting still, driving straight, or turning. It has gotten worse as the weather has gotten warmer. All fluid levels are good.
View 6 RepliesI just finished replacing the rack and pinion on a 98 Explorer 5.0 V8 AWD 4dr Eddie Bauer edition. My question is...Should the steering gear lower shaft set flush when it is connected to the Rack and pinion knuckle? I have some wiggle room but I think I have it as far down as I can get it. It is about 1/2" from setting flush on top of the knuckle. Once I tighten the bolt, it should hold, right?
It looks just like the picture on the right.....
My rack and pinion began to fail and my Liberty developed sensitive steering (lane to lane and while towing trailers). I had it replaced locally and aligned but when I got it back it was more sensitive than before and borders on "unsafe to drive". I can imagine what it would do if I put a trailer behind it. In my mind something is binding which is fighting the steering input.
When you turn the steering wheel stays where-ever you steer to (does not return to center). My next repair is a known bad ball joint, but I don't think that is causing this. My question is at 106K could my power steering pump be producing less than full power? Is there a dampener in this system that could have frozen up? I'm ruling out the alignment for now. This is the V-6, 4WD Limited.
I truly intend to repair it forever, but if I can't get past this it goes to the junkyard.
My son has a 2007 Ford Truck F150 1/2 ton P/U 4WD 5.4L , when he turns the steering wheel left and right you can hear a clunky sound on the rack and pinion right where the steering shaft connects.
View 2 RepliesI have a Lexus RX 350 and about a month and a half ago I got the rack and pinion replaced. Pretty shortly after, as I was driving highways speeds somewhere in the 60-70 range, it started to feel a little rough, as if I was driving over rough pavement, but it was brand new blacktop. I put the brakes on and the vehicle started to vibrate, not the steering wheel though. After I braked, the rough sound and vibration didn't come back until a week or two ago, it's been happening intermittently and very seldom, maybe has happened a total of 5 or 6 times, but I'm concerned because it never did this before the rack and pinion. I got it all done on a Saturday, alignment was involved too, so I wonder if maybe someone hurried themselves and didn't do something to protocol.
View 2 RepliesLast week I took my 2004 Honda Odyssey in to Firestone for a rear brake job and they ended up selling me an oil change, two new tires, alignment, an alternator drive belt, and two front engine mounts as well. When I picked up the vehicle late Friday afternoon, I noticed the power steering was making a whining noise and the steering seemed a little stiff. I took it back to Firestone Saturday morning, and they looked under the hood and said my power steering fluid was low, so they topped it off. That fixed the whining, but the steering still had a bit of a kink in it. They said it might be an air bubble in the line that would work itself out. Monday morning on my way to work, the whining was back and the steering very stiff and getting noticibly worse by the minute, so I took it directly back to Firestone.
It turns out the rack and pinion is leaking, and Firestone denies that it could have happened while they had the vehicle. The manager I spoke to said "all we did was replace a couple of belts -- didn't even get near the rack and pinion." Well, that's not all they did, but if anything they did could have caused the current issue. I know there were no suspension or power steering issues before I took it in, and after I picked it up suddenly it's leaking fluid like crazy. What can I do or say to press my case?
200 Toy Sienna-- Had a oil leak, got it fixed. Drove 15-20 miles and Engine dies on me. Tried to restart, ignition is fine, engine does not catch on. Got it towed to shed, left overnight. Mechanic explains that car has to relearn throttle - memory got reset etc. Car drives fine now. Mechanic says, it did not start the first few times, then all he did was turn on the key and step on the Gas!! Is that right? Or did he forget to to do something? Who's memory is not working?
View 6 RepliesMy 2006 Toyota Camry LE (4cyl) is in the shop today for its 120,000 mile maintenance. The Toyota shop says my power steering rack (or boot?) is leaking, the whole thing needs to be replaced, and this is a $1200 repair. I had an accident in this car on 01/03/13, I was hit on the front passenger side tire, pushing it in and under, along with damage to the front lower corner of the door and the whole fender. I got the car out of the repair shop last week and immediately noticed a lot of banging and bumping that was not there before. I called the repair shop, they said bring it in and they will look at it, I was planning to take it in tomorrow. Meanwhile my car was due for an oil change and the 120,000 mile maintenance, so I dropped it off this morning and you know the rest of the story. I asked Toyota if this could have happened in the accident - they said while it could be that the banging and bumping noises are the boot rattling, it was not likely this would have happened in the accident. What do you think, is it possible or likely the power steering rack could have been torn in the accident or in the ensuing replacement of parts on the undercarriage?
View 6 RepliesI looked up the service history of a Sienna 2006 (have been planing to buy the minivan) and found that it had a few incidents with AIR BAG ON. When I initially searched for 2006 Sienna I mostly hit the door latch problems. Looks like the airbag issue has been reported on several blogs and there is no recall yet on this issue.
My question is, if I buy extended warranty, whether this would cover the repair cost or not. Or, should I stay away from 2006 Siennas? If so, which models/years should I avoid?
I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna with approx 64K miles. Recently, I am hearing a squealing noise when the AC clutch engages (AC is working fine and blows very cold air). When AC is off for when the clutch is not engaged - no noise at all..... I have been getting alot of different answers as to what it could be and it is very confusing.... to me - it sounds like a clutch issue and I have seen videos on how to take apart and see if it is a bearing or bad clutch. I did pull the belt and checked the pulley - it turns freely and there is no bearing movement. How I can go about getting it repaired without replacing the entire compressor and other expensive parts.
View 13 RepliesHas an underlying problem to the tire wear on AWD drive 2006 Sienna's run flats been identified?
View 7 RepliesIt appears I have stumped my mechanic. My '06 Toyota Sienna with 78k miles started making a rattle noise (my toddler says he hears a helicopter) every time I take my foot off the gas. It is most obvious between 25-60mph. The sound continues when the brake is depressed, but stops once the brake is fully engaged. My mechanic doesn't know what is making the noise, but suspects something inside the transmission, and wants to replace the transmission (which is $5600 I'd rather avoid spending if possible). 78k miles is pretty young for a new transmission, especially on a Toyota, right? Where to look next?
View 9 RepliesI have a problem and I'm not sure to start. I bought a 2006 Toyota Sienna two weeks ago the only known problem was the radio speakers would fade out after driving it for a while. I swapped it out for another radio and it didn’t make a difference now both sliding doors are also giving me a problem. At first the manual driver’s side door occasionally would not let us out using the interior handle almost as if the child safety lock is on and the exterior seems to require abnormal amount of force to open the handle. Now, this week the power passenger side sliding door started giving me a problem, the door was stuck in the open position and when we went to close it, would only move half an inch so we push it manually. Ever since then the buttons and Fob's only make the noise then are unable to move it any further either open or closing unless I use the handle and now since yesterday the interior handle on the power door is working intermittently as well. I spoke to the previous owner and he said the rear doors were not having an issue that he knew of I’m wondering if the radio and doors could share something in common that could explain both.
View 4 RepliesFor about a year now, my trusty Sienna has been making this intermittent little squeak. It's not loud (it's not the belt!). It seems to be coming from the passenger side, toward the rear. It only happens when I am moving. It seems to happen when I am running the AC. It is a soft little chirpy-ish squeak, about 2 seconds in duration. It sounds for all the world like a vent opening up with a squeak. Driveability is in no way compromised.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 Toyota Sienna Van that has 111,000 miles on it. I have a problem with both the heat and a/c. If you have the heat on but are just idling, it begins to blow cool air. Likewise, if you run the a/c but are just idling the air begins to blow warm. In either case, if you rev the engine (either in park or nuetral say at a red light), the air gets warmer if the heat is on, or colder if the a/c is on. In other words, the temperature only works correctly if the rpm's are up. Could this be a stopped up heater core.
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