Toyota - Sienna :: 2005 - Brake Lights Not Working After Emissions Testing Connected To Dataport
Jan 20, 2013
So I've got the exact same issue as the person who posted this: [URL] ....
Brake lights not working on Toyota Sienna 2005 XLE after emissions testing connected to the dataport. Went to the Toyota dealership this afternoon and it looks like a wiring issue. Also found out when the left blinker is engaged, it blows the 10A STOP fuse which then causes the ABS and VCS(?) lights to illuminate. What a mess....
Is the easiest way to fix this just to run a new wire to the affected area? The folks at the dealership seemed to suggest they were going to need to rip out all the interior to find the break in the circuit. Timing-wise, this problem starting happening right after I went to get emissions checked and they plugged a cable into the data port to pull emissions(?) and other data.
My hunch is that these two events are directly related but I don't have much knowledge of how things are wired up , what might have caused this problem.
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I have a radio aftermarket one of my friend have this problem and he have to install the original radio. So I buy the wire harness and the radio i install and still not able to do the emissions test.
My ABS light is flashing but my friend said this is not a problem he fix more than 4 car just replacing the aftermarket radio....
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I have a 2002 Toyota Rav 4 which just hit about 58,000 miles. Never really had too many problems until about a week ago. For a while, one of the brake lights wasn't working and just a few days ago, both of them went out. The regular tail-lights work as do the reverse lights, just not the brake lights.
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Recently replaced 2 burned out brake lights on the drivers side. Discovered brake lights still don't work. Passenger side works fine. Exchanged bulbs but no luck. Brake lights still don't work. All running lights work as well as backup lights and turn signals. Just can't get the two drivers side lights to work.
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Brake and Revers lights not working on 1999 Toyota Corolla? I have checked fuses and wire connections with no results. My brake and reverse lights just stopped working yesterday and I don't know what else to check.
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The larger (60) side of my 2005 Sienna's third row seat is stuck in the "up" position. That is: the seat back will fold down, but the seat will not release from the floor in order to fold down into the well at the back of the vehicle.
The pull tab on the back of the seat that releases it moves in and out too easily. I viewed the mechanism under the seat and it appears that the pull tab is linked to a cable which rotates an armature, which in turn pulls one cable for each leg of the seat to release it. It looks like the cable connected to the pull tab is properly rotating the armature, but the legs aren't releasing. I can't tell for sure but it seems like the armature is rotated into the "release" position but it hasn't released the legs. I've crawled under the seat and tried my best to rotate the armature with my hands and a pair of pliers to no avail.
I was thinking my next step would be to try to rotate the armature with a little gentle persuasion (e.g. a hammer and a screwdriver or piece of wood).
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I have a 2003 Toyota Sienna. The radio has stopped working. All other electrical parts of the car appear to be in fine working order. I found the Radio-No.2 fuse (7.5A) beneath the dash and replaced it with the working 7.5A (working) turning signal with no luck. (The radio fuse DID work when placed in the turning signal fuse slot). So it cannot be this fuse.
Is there a Radio-No.1 fuse? Unfortunately, this car did not come with a owners manual. If so where would I find it?Or could this be a different problem? What else should I look for.
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I have a 99 Toyota Sienna with an automatic sliding door that has failed. Cost to repair is high $$$. Would like to disable the motor and automatic mechanism and make it a regular manual sliding. Can it be done? If so need a repair shop?
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The power steering on our 98 Toyota Sienna sometimes stops working for a second. It only happens when the car is first started and usually when it is raining or has rained recently. I checked some old posts from Tom and Ray and found one that sounded similar. They said it was the belt being either wet or worn or not tight enough. Does that sound like what our problem is? It also squeals sometimes when you turn the wheel too much so it does seem like the belt could be slipping.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Sienna van. My garage failed to check the brake shoes as requested, so I gouged the back brake drums and had to have them replaced. Shortly afterwards, whenever I brake, in the last 2-3 seconds before I stop there is a thumping noise from the right rear wheel. It will thump a few times, maybe 2-5 times, perhaps one thump per wheel rotation. I don't feel any pulsing in the brake pedal, and except for the noise braking seems normal. Could this be due to the shoe adjustment being too loose, so the shoe has room to pulse inside the drum?
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To get the car going again, we'll have to put it back into park and then back into drive. Its one of the scariest things I have witness being in a car. Luckily it usually happens between 10 -20 miles per hour and we haven't had an accident because of it. I have taken the van to 3 mechanics including a Toyota dealer and no one has been able to fix it. The only thing that has work for a time has been cleaning the speed senors, Also, it maybe worse when the A/C is on but we aren't sure.
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I have a Toyota Sienna 2005 LE minivan , when I push the brakes my steering vibrates. I checked the tire balancing at the tire store just to double check no issues with balancing he verified all looked fine on tires he mentioned it is possible the front brake rotor causing it. He said I may have to replace the rotor itself since there may not be enough room for resurfacing the rotor. My question is
is it true I cannot resurface the rotors? if I have to buy new ones is it advisable if I buy it from "Autozone or OReilly " store or does it have to be the original from Toyota ? Toyota's pricing are 4 times more than from these stores. I know safety is important so let me know which option is better.
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Within the last few weeks my Sienna has begun making a terrible noise and shudder when I accelerate. It seems like it is worse on the front passenger side. When slowly accelerating from a stop it makes a hollow pitched metal scraping sound that increases frequency with speed (up to 25-30mph) and at higher speeds just the shudder, no sound. Initially this was intermittent but now it is an all the time thing.
The sound and shudder only happens when accelerating, regardless of speed. When you are at cruising speed on the highway there's no shudder as long as you are at constant speed and at any time if you take your foot off of the gas pedal the noise and shudder stop. Because of the link to acceleration I don't think its a wheel bearing.
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Tonight our 2002 Toyota Sienna (automatic transmission) was in drive, but stopped (foot on brake) during a traffic jam. Traffic picked up and the driver moved his foot from brake to gas. The car went into reverse at a high speed. The brake did not work. The driver quickly changed gears to park.
1. What is (are) the problems resulting in this situation?
2. Has additional damage been done by switching into park?
3. Is it safe to drive to the repair shop?
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2005 Toyota Sienna minivan. Neighbor brings it by my house for a headlamp bulb.Rt head lamp low beam is out. Access is easy with the hood open.Rt Headlamp lens housing has moisture inside, left does not.Bulb is not broken or shatterd, it is in one piece.Before we spend $76 for an HID bulb, I have questions on the HID system. Is it that simple..just a bulb..or is there electronic controls involved that could be the culprit?Did the moisture take out the bulb in the first place ? ( halogen bulbs explode when wet ) or cause a chort in the electronics ? I already told her we need to take out the lens body and find and seal the leak and dry it out but I'm curious about the HID system.Do I dare just put 12v to the bulb ( #D2R 35w ) to test it or is that a bad idea with HID ?....( my best Ford tech to ask is off today )
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I have a 2004 Sienna LE and it has left/right signal problem (not working) in the morning or when the weather is cold. The problem usually last for about 5 to 10 minutes until the inside car temperature becomes warm.
When this problem happens the emergency lights are working. Only the signal left and right do not work.
Is this a common Sienna problems? I brought the car to the dealer but they refused to fix it because they cannot duplicate the problem. I am guessing when the warranty has expired, they will make suggestion to replace the part but not until then.
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I have a 2002 Toyota sienna XLE, 95k miles. A few weeks ago I replaced the battery with a DieHard. Immediately after this, the right sliding door stopped working. A few days later the left side stopped working. Neither sliding door works in the manual mode, child proof feature is disabled. Fuses are good. Both doors click when any associated switch is activated but don't open. It was suggested by an owner of an older Sienna that the auto door computer needed resetting. Worth a try. His procedure involved disconnecting the negative side of the battery, waiting 3-5 minutes, reconnecting battery, use the key fob remote to open a door and then close it using the fob. Wait 10 seconds open and close same as before, doing this a total of 3 times. It didn't work, door clicks won't open. Tried again same results. This makes sense and my thinking goes that perhaps the sequence is different for a newer model.
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My headlights and dash illumination lights will intermittently flicker when I use the turn indicator to signal a right hand turn. Is it possible that there is a short in the turn indicator/high-low beam headlight control switch that is causing this?
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I was on a highway on my Toyota Sienna LE 2012 today and hit a minor bump (the steel protrusions on road you feel when driving over a bridge) I first thought the tire pressure signal come on, slowed down and it seemed OK. All indicators - Check Engine, ABS, VSC, Brake, Pressure, etc were also ON, speedometer, odometer not working and I stopped under a mile at a gas station. Turned off car, checked tire pressure, it was OK and restarted car - all indicators still ON, speedometer, odometer and power window controls do not work. Steering feels tight but I can drive car - I was on my way to JFK Airport and on Beltway Pky East another 10mi to go yo JFK. Car drove fine, but with all these indicators on, and steering what felt like manual.
I plan on taking car for service tomorrow but I have never remotely experienced anything like this on a car. I am also worried I messed up the car (and dangerous if something else happened...) driving to get to the airport. What could have gone wrong?
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