Toyota - Sienna :: 2004 - AC Air Will Switch To Warm After First Drive Of Day
May 24, 2015
My wife's '04 Sienna is having an AC problem. The compressor comes on with the first start of the day and the AC blows nice chilly air. As you take that first drive of the day the air will switch to warm, then the compressor may kick back on or it may not, but then it stays off for the rest of the day. I'm not sure if this is because of the ambient temperature rising throughout the day or because of the engine parts heating up.
The low side pressure is 35 when the compressor is on.I tried switching the MG-CLT Relay with the Horn Relay to see if it was bad but the horn still worked and the compressor still doesn't come on.
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I have a FWD 2009 Sienna with 62k that vibrate on cold days. It only vibrate when the shifter is on drive or reverse while stepping on the brake. There is no vibration while driving, only when I'm at a stop light. After the engine warms up, the vibration goes away. I can feel the vibration on the steering wheel. I just want some kind of knowledge before taking it in.
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Has an underlying problem to the tire wear on AWD drive 2006 Sienna's run flats been identified?
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I have an 8 year old 2004 Toyota Sienna LE minivan. This past weekend I tried running the air conditioner when the temperature was in the low 80's (F) outside. Unfortunately, the AC only blew hot air, even though I drove a pretty long distance with the AC on.
I think the refrigerant has leaked out and is depleted. Whether or not I should attempt to recharge the AC by myself with my neighbor's assistance (he has all of the gear for recharging the refrigerant) or if this is a job that is better left to a professional.
Also, if I do attempt the job by myself, would it be better to try and seal the leaks with a dedicated sealant first, or should I use the canned refrigerant that also contains some kind of sealant?
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2004 Sienna LE with 193,500 miles. While driving home tonight I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger front wheel. The noise goes away on acceleration and braking. Whenever I take my foot off the gas it starts to make the noise again. It sounds almost like a brake noise but I just replaced the caliper bracket this past weekend and the brakes look great (less than 20,000 miles on caliper, rotor and pads). I suspect a bearing may be going bad and want to know if these symptoms match a bad bearing. The wheel bearings are all original.
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I have a 2009 RAV4 and it has only 40,000 miles. Three weeks ago, I took it to a local Toyota dealership for oil change and tire rotation. The service manager told me that it needs the drive belt to be replaced and the oil in the four-wheel drive system needs to be replaced. I accepted his recommendation and have the job done. After paid almost $700, I took the car back. The next week, the engine lost power and did not respond to the gas pedal for a few seconds while I was driving on the highway. This problem occurred on and off while I was driving.
In addition, the brake light was on after I had the car fully parked and the car key was out. I took it back to the dealership. After diagnosed, the service manager told me that the "brake switch" has gone bad and it caused the engine lost power because it has a "break safe system". After paid about $130 to replace the "brake switch", the problem of engine lost power and won't respond to the gas pedal was gone. The next week, however, the engine light was on and the warning light of four-wheel drive was on. I took the car back to the dealership again. After diagnosed, this time they said the O2 sensor has gone bad and it caused the engine light on and the four wheel warning sign on. I took the car back again. So I paid another $450 to have the O2 sensor replaced. Now the car seems to be running normal.
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When I turn on the heat, I only get hot air through the drivers side vent,the passenger side vent is very cold. I had it in to be worked on (at a Non-Toyota shop)and they tore it completely apart and could not diagnose the problem. It affects the entire system,meaning the air going to defrost is also hot on the drivers side and cold on the passenger side.
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I have a 2004 Sienna LE with 169,500 miles. It started to shift hard between 2nd and 3rd gear in traffic (it had previously never had ANY hard shifting). A few minutes later the CEL came on along with the VSC and Traction Control lights. Both Advance Auto and a Toyota dealer confirmed that the codes showed the speed sensors on the rear wheels (both sides) were bad. The Toyota dealer also declared that the low gear solenoid in the transmission was bad and the transmission would need to be replaced soon. I found it strange that the transmission started shifting hard at the exact same time the speed sensors went bad. Is it possible that simply replacing the speed sensors would fix my hard shifting issue? I am a shade tree mechanic that does brake work and other intermediate tasks. Is speed sensor replacement an easy job on this Sienna?
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I made a big mistake, I was cleaning out my truck and accidentally switched my 4 wheel drive to the 4 low position. Not knowing this I started the truck and just drove it all day. Then I noticed my mistake and now the truck will not shift into either 4 high or 4 low!
The truck drives just fine, I feel no pull when I turn to the left or right so it seems that it never did any shifting into 4 high or 4 low, so I'm looking for recommendations on maybe how to fix?
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In my 2003 Toyota Sienna, the ABS system comes on at low speeds. Since I will be trading in shortly, don't want to pay for costly sensor repair. Looked at fuse box to remove ABS fuse, and found 3 fuses that are labeled as ABS. Which should I remove?
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My Sienna's Got the Shakes! At around 30mph and higher, my 2004 Toyota Sienna starts with a constant vibration coming from the front end. It gets faster as the speed increases and it only happens when I'm accelerating... when I take my foot off the gas it goes away. I unknowingly bought the car with this problem, and I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to fix it or sell as is, but I'm getting stumped about the cause. A couple mechanics thought it is from bad motor mounts. I replaced the front mount because it was the easiest to access and could clearly be seen as cracked in the rubber. However, it didn't seem to change the vibration at all, and my mechanic then wasn't convinced that spending money on trying to replace the other mounts was going to do the trick. Another person took a look at it and didn't think it was the motor mounts either, but thought it was something in the drive train which would need to be checked out by the dealer which would be fairly costly. I would love to get it fixed because the rest of the minivan is in good condition.
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I bought a brand new 2005 Toyota Sienna and since then have nevered got any warm air to come through the rear vents. Only the front passenger and driver gets the heated air. The back rear get only cold air.
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I looked up the service history of a Sienna 2006 (have been planing to buy the minivan) and found that it had a few incidents with AIR BAG ON. When I initially searched for 2006 Sienna I mostly hit the door latch problems. Looks like the airbag issue has been reported on several blogs and there is no recall yet on this issue.
My question is, if I buy extended warranty, whether this would cover the repair cost or not. Or, should I stay away from 2006 Siennas? If so, which models/years should I avoid?
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My Toyota Sienna 2002 van has been stalling when I stop off and on for about 2 weeks. Most times it starts up again and continues to run. I can go days and it doesn't happen then yesterday it happened 7 times in the course of 10 minutes. I've had it connected to a computer diagnostic system three times, couldn't find any error messages.
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My 2010 Toyota Sienna alarm keeps going off randomly...there is no method to the madness. It happens after it's been running or not. It happens at all hours of the day and night. It can happen four times in a row and then not for days on end. It's literally driving me insane. I can stop it by pressing the unlock button on the remote. But it will often -- though not always -- do it a few more times after that. So, I open all the doors/trunk remotely and that usually puts an end to it for that period...but not always. But it always happens again...whether it's the next day or seven days later. The mechanic says they need to keep the car and hear/see it happen...but that means leaving my car with them for days on end, which I simply can't afford to do.
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My wife's 2005 Sienna is a very reliable vehicle. But occasionally when I drive it a fair distance--50 miles or so, but not always that far--the check engine light will come on. (It's something vague about emissions, but isn't it always?) And then a day or so after my wife drives it again, the light goes off. The van seems to run fine at all times. So is it something I'm doing when I drive it?
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Well, a serious problem may be pending on my 2002 Sienna. I get a lot of flats, and usually lose a tire on average each year, due to lots of junk on the roads and streets. So, in the last couple weeks, sometimes the tire light comes on, and I assume I have another leak. But, then it has gone out again after a while and the pressure is okay.
Yesterday, moderate temperatures, I drove only 3 miles or so, to visit friends. The car sat an hour or more. When I started it, the ABS light was blinking and the tire light was on.
I stopped the car, and re-booted, that is, turned it off, and started it again. Lights were okay. Today, I started it, and the ABS and tire lights were on, and not blinking. I re-booted the car, and they were okay.
Three things come to mind:
- Computer
- Bad or intermittent connections somewhere in the light system. The fact a re-boot fixes it tends to preclude this, but with electronics, there is no such thing as 100% sure anything.
- Ambient conditions. I normally park at the end of the house, but workers first put a dump truck load of sand there. Then, they moved in a couple pickups of laja (flagstone) with pieces from very small to maybe 150 pounds each piece.
So, I have parked along the house, and there is a roof drain which drains 500 square feet or more, with a 13 foot drop. I park with the driver's door maybe 3 to five feet from the place it hits. And, it has been raining lightly for the last couple weeks, and heavily the last three days. No water in the car body, but who knows what happens underneath.
I stopped typing and moved enough stones to park there again, and will be telling the workers they need to keep my parking place open for me.
I know we used to have problems with our electronics in private airplanes, and the fix was to install a liner inside the electronics access door. Electronics does not work well when submerged. I also checked with my new scanner, and no DTC; and no history at all.
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I have a 1998 toyota sienna with 170k. Yesterday when I was driving on the highway, the car turned completely off, and then after about 2 seconds started back up again. When it turned off, the electronics turned off along with the engine. I had no brake power, lost power steering, and couldn't even turn on the hazards. It did it 2 more times before I got home.
The second time, I noticed that it did this when I turned on the headlights. This time the engine stayed on, but the speedometer and tachometer went nuts (bouncing up and down) and all of the console lights turned on and off. When I turned the headlights off, everything went ok. When I got home and turned the car off, it went dead. Haven't tried starting it today, but the battery light went on dimly when I put the key in.
Took a quick look at the battery. The terminals are corroded. I'm going to clean them today, but I'm feeling that it won't do much. The battery light didn't turn on, so I'm thinking that the alternator is ok (am I wrong?). Since the electronics and brakes died when the engine died, I'm thinking it's not the distributor coil. Is my ecu fried?
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The brakes on my 2007 Toyota Sienna suddenly went soft. The mechanic first replaced the rear pads, which needed to be done anyway, and when that didn't fix the problem he replaced the master cylinder. The brakes are still very soft. He has bled the system several times to get rid of possible air in the line, but that hasn't fixed the problem.
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My 2009 Sienna has turned on the Malfunction Indicator Light but my OBD-II scanner shows "no codes". How can that be? How can I diagnose the problem?
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I've read quite a few instances in this forum of unintended acceleration in the Toyota Sienna. Well it happened to me this morning. I was pulling into my parking spot at work with my foot lightly on the brake, going about 5 or 10 mph when the vehicle suddenly accelerated as if someone had floored the accelerator. The vehicle went up over the curb and into the side of the building. When I told the policeman what had happened, he said that isn't possible. I told him it was possible because it just happened to me. I had it towed to the dealership, called my insurance company and Toyota to make a report of the incident. They will be sending someone out to check out the car, but I'm sure they won't say there is anything wrong with it. I'm sure it won't be impartial since they don't want to be held liable. I also made a complaint with the NHTSA. I am afraid to drive the car and will never buy a Toyota again.
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