Toyota - Sienna :: 2002 - After Battery Replaced Sliding Door Won't Working
Nov 10, 2012
I have a 2002 Toyota sienna XLE, 95k miles. A few weeks ago I replaced the battery with a DieHard. Immediately after this, the right sliding door stopped working. A few days later the left side stopped working. Neither sliding door works in the manual mode, child proof feature is disabled. Fuses are good. Both doors click when any associated switch is activated but don't open. It was suggested by an owner of an older Sienna that the auto door computer needed resetting. Worth a try. His procedure involved disconnecting the negative side of the battery, waiting 3-5 minutes, reconnecting battery, use the key fob remote to open a door and then close it using the fob. Wait 10 seconds open and close same as before, doing this a total of 3 times. It didn't work, door clicks won't open. Tried again same results. This makes sense and my thinking goes that perhaps the sequence is different for a newer model.
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I have a 99 Toyota Sienna with an automatic sliding door that has failed. Cost to repair is high $$$. Would like to disable the motor and automatic mechanism and make it a regular manual sliding. Can it be done? If so need a repair shop?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Sienna and the passenger sliding door will not slide on its own. You have to tug on the door to get it to engage. The repair shop said the door needs a new actuator. How hard is replacing the actuator on sliding passenger door?? My brother thinks he might be able to do it???
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I have had that car, the best one I have ever owned, since shortly after Nine-One-One, a date some of you may remember.
I never open any door but the driver's door with the key. Several months ago, for some reason it occurred to me to try and see if they worked.
Nope, both the rear hatch and passenger's door lock would not open with the key. I assumed that the mechanism corroded up over lack of use over the years.
I thought, Well, crud. But, since I haven't used those door locks in over 12 years, I can probably get by.
I thought I had lost the spare car key when I was in Texas in December. To my surprise, I saw it on the key rack in the kitchen here in rural Mexico. I took it out to the car to check it out, and it opens all the doors.
I compared the keys, and one of the 'vanes' on the key I use all the time is a very tiny bit smaller than on the spare key. My guess is either that key never opened those two doors and I never noticed it. Or, it has worn over 12 years.
So, I guess when I get back to the States, I will have a copy made of the spare key. I am also going to post this on Sienna Chat for obvious reasons.
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The blue illuminated sills were already installed when I purchased the car...I just recently noticed that both sides don't light up anymore. I'm not sure when exactly they quit working, but i recently had my battery replaced. I checked every fuse in my car and can't find one that is blown. Is this a fuse problem? or did both sills just decide to crap out together? I checked both connections and they're solid.
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Long story short it stopped working. I have tried the reset method with no luck and I can't seem to get it to give me the codes per the factory service manual. This is what I do know when you release the door it unlatches but won't open, I can hear the motor trying to run but it won't pull the door open and it sounds like it immediately reverses but the door does not move.
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My passenger side power sliding door on my 2003 Olds Silhouette (147,000 miles) Occasionally will quit working. We can open it and close it manually and sometimes it will start working again, other times it won't work for several days and then all of a sudden it works again.
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I own a 2005 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited. Awhile back, I received an TSB announcement for possible clicking noises due to some of the door welds breaking off.
Well, I am getting very loud clicking noises and I'm afraid I'm affected by the TSB.
I called one dealer around me and he said it will take the 3 days because they have to send it to a body shop to have them take the doors apart, weld around the doors, then possibly repaint the door due to the paint being affected by the heat from welding.
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My Toyota Sienna 2002 van has been stalling when I stop off and on for about 2 weeks. Most times it starts up again and continues to run. I can go days and it doesn't happen then yesterday it happened 7 times in the course of 10 minutes. I've had it connected to a computer diagnostic system three times, couldn't find any error messages.
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I have a 2002 Rav4, no key fob, just use a regular key. The driver's side door started to have unlocking issues and finally wouldn't unlock at all. The other two outside locks - passenger side and back door - were fine and were the only way I was getting into my car for a couple of weeks. Repair shop pulled the driver's side lock, pulled out the non-functioning tumbler, and had it replaced and re-keyed at a lock shop. Got the car back and driver's side door was working great, but that very day, I all-of-a-sudden couldn't unlock the passenger or the back door from the outside using the key (both will lock from the outside using the key). The shop (which I've been going to for a long time) thinks it is just a coincidence that both the other locks stopped working right after fixing the driver's side door, but that makes no sense to me. Is there anything in the driver's side door that could have been disturbed and is now preventing both the other doors from being unlocked from the outside? The repair shop solution is to just pull the other two locks and do the same thing as the driver's side door - pull any bad tumblers and re-key. I just cannot believe that this is a coincidence.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Sienna. The radio has stopped working. All other electrical parts of the car appear to be in fine working order. I found the Radio-No.2 fuse (7.5A) beneath the dash and replaced it with the working 7.5A (working) turning signal with no luck. (The radio fuse DID work when placed in the turning signal fuse slot). So it cannot be this fuse.
Is there a Radio-No.1 fuse? Unfortunately, this car did not come with a owners manual. If so where would I find it?Or could this be a different problem? What else should I look for.
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The power steering on our 98 Toyota Sienna sometimes stops working for a second. It only happens when the car is first started and usually when it is raining or has rained recently. I checked some old posts from Tom and Ray and found one that sounded similar. They said it was the belt being either wet or worn or not tight enough. Does that sound like what our problem is? It also squeals sometimes when you turn the wheel too much so it does seem like the belt could be slipping.
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2002 Toyota Sienna wobbles when engine under load and is more noticeable at certain speeds (like around 40 mph). The wobble is lateral in the body of the car and the steering wheel IS NOT vibrating.AutoMD web site suggests it may be the motor mounts. I did their diagnostic suggestion of putting the car in gear with the emergency brake on and foot on brake .. and revving the engine and letting up. I didn't notice a "knock" when the torque was released on the engine.My local mechanic is stymied ... says he checked the motor mounts, and front end mechanics and they are OK ...
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When it rains, it pours. My 2002 Sienna had a burned out headlight bulb the other day.
So, why am I even mentioning it? Buy a new 9003 bulb, open the hood, unplug the socket; pull off the rubber cover, twist the clip and take out the bad buld, and reverse it to put in the new one.
No one in town had a 9003. They did have 9004, but some on-line research said some bulbs have very precise placement for the filaments. While I am not sure 9004 is different wiring from 9003, why bother?
So, I dug in the box of used parts, found an old bulb I swapped out probably over 100,000 miles ago, grabbed some pipe cleaners and rubbing alcohol, and cleaned that old bulb and put it in. Works fine.
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Coming home from a road trip we stopped for gas not 5 minutes later the check engine light started flashing. The car was fine as long as you were puching on the gas but as soon as you slowed to a stop it would either die or shudder until I gave it some more gas. Being stupid I figured that I could probably get it home since It was only 25 miles of freeway driving and I wouldn't have to stop until I got near my home. I took it to a mechanic the next day and they said that it was my timing belt.
The next day I get a call from them telling me my timing belt is fine but they discovered that a valve adjuster shim is missing on cylinder 6 and the adjuster cup is jammed down as well as a crack in the locating pin hole so that the pin is moving causing the cam to shift in relation to the cam gear. They suggested I rebuild or replace the cylinder heads and may need to replace the engine. What this could be?
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I have a 2004 Sienna LE and it has left/right signal problem (not working) in the morning or when the weather is cold. The problem usually last for about 5 to 10 minutes until the inside car temperature becomes warm.
When this problem happens the emergency lights are working. Only the signal left and right do not work.
Is this a common Sienna problems? I brought the car to the dealer but they refused to fix it because they cannot duplicate the problem. I am guessing when the warranty has expired, they will make suggestion to replace the part but not until then.
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Tonight our 2002 Toyota Sienna (automatic transmission) was in drive, but stopped (foot on brake) during a traffic jam. Traffic picked up and the driver moved his foot from brake to gas. The car went into reverse at a high speed. The brake did not work. The driver quickly changed gears to park.
1. What is (are) the problems resulting in this situation?
2. Has additional damage been done by switching into park?
3. Is it safe to drive to the repair shop?
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we have a 2002 Toyota Sienna Van; recently, there has been a smell like turpentine coming from the front passenger seat. We have tried spraying large amounts of the freeze on it to no avail.
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I was on a highway on my Toyota Sienna LE 2012 today and hit a minor bump (the steel protrusions on road you feel when driving over a bridge) I first thought the tire pressure signal come on, slowed down and it seemed OK. All indicators - Check Engine, ABS, VSC, Brake, Pressure, etc were also ON, speedometer, odometer not working and I stopped under a mile at a gas station. Turned off car, checked tire pressure, it was OK and restarted car - all indicators still ON, speedometer, odometer and power window controls do not work. Steering feels tight but I can drive car - I was on my way to JFK Airport and on Beltway Pky East another 10mi to go yo JFK. Car drove fine, but with all these indicators on, and steering what felt like manual.
I plan on taking car for service tomorrow but I have never remotely experienced anything like this on a car. I am also worried I messed up the car (and dangerous if something else happened...) driving to get to the airport. What could have gone wrong?
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So I've got the exact same issue as the person who posted this: [URL] ....
Brake lights not working on Toyota Sienna 2005 XLE after emissions testing connected to the dataport. Went to the Toyota dealership this afternoon and it looks like a wiring issue. Also found out when the left blinker is engaged, it blows the 10A STOP fuse which then causes the ABS and VCS(?) lights to illuminate. What a mess....
Is the easiest way to fix this just to run a new wire to the affected area? The folks at the dealership seemed to suggest they were going to need to rip out all the interior to find the break in the circuit. Timing-wise, this problem starting happening right after I went to get emissions checked and they plugged a cable into the data port to pull emissions(?) and other data.
My hunch is that these two events are directly related but I don't have much knowledge of how things are wired up , what might have caused this problem.
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Toyota Corolla 2000. 77k miles
About a little under a month ago, when my dad tried starting the car, it would start up, make a weird rattling sound like "kakakaka" and then when you press the gas pedal, the car will shut down.
When we do get the car to work, and it starts riding for around 30 miles, the car seems to struggle to maintain speed and get faster even when the pedal is pressed further.
An engine light was shown for either P170, P171 or P0171 (reading off a paper and cant tell what the number is.) We took it to two technicians and neither could find what the problem is.
The light will occasionally turn off and when if you drive for like 20 miles itll come back on.
The first mechanic we took it to they removed and replaced the air/fuel ratio sensor. As well as put in a "Bosch Oxygen Sensor". Got charged 300 for this, and the lights still came on, problems were still there.
Went to another mechanic and he straight up couldnt find anything wrong so he didnt try replacing anything.
A family friend recommended a new battery, so we purchased a new one and put it in, but problems were still there.
Now today, after the car being inactive for around 10 hours, it completely failed to start. When you put the key in, it doesnt even make the usual sounds. We tried jump starting it with cables which did work, but then when we got home, turned off the car, it wouldnt turn back on. The doors wont lock (if that matters), the little light inside the car still shines though (if that matters)
Is this something I can solve, or should I take to another mechanic? If so, is it possible to bring it directly to a Toyota dealership or something? Because for the second mechanic he said he couldnt find anything because the parts were so old..
Today I took out the battery and cleaned off all the corrosion on it and put the battery back in. I tried to start up the car and it did work! I then turned the car off, and then put all the tools back inside, and when I went back out to try it again, it does not start up. However, when I put the key in, it made the usual (ding ding ding) noise, and it showed the seatbelt light. when I tried to start the car, it showed the Check Engine light, Low engine oil pressure light, as well as Charging system warning light.
I try a few more times, and after around 3 times, when I put the key in, it no long made a sound, and when I tried to start it, the lights were very very dim.
I tried my last time when it caused a spark on the positive connector.
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