Toyota - Sequoia :: 2002 - Overheating Only When A/C On
Dec 7, 2013
I have a 2002 Toyota Sequoia, V8 4.7L that overheats only when the A/C is turned on. Without A/C on, it runs perfectly normal. I have replaced the thermostat twice, replaced the radiator, replaced the electric A/C cooling fan, replaced the fan clutch, and just recently replaced the water pump (wow, what a job that was!). Even with all these repairs, the engine still overheats only with the A/C on. What to do next?!
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At idle, on hot days (90+) after about a minute, the A/C cuts out and the temp gauge begins to rise. Gets about 3/4 of the way to the red zone, but never reaches it. I changed radiator cap, but still does it. Fluid level is fine; no coolant leaks that I can see. Called a mechanic and asked about a radiator flush. He said he'd do one, but it probably wouldn't work and I should just bring it in for a diagnostic.
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What would cause me to have to replace several of the same ignition coils in less than two years time? It seems like it always happens after I purchase gas.
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We have a 2008 Toyota Sequoia with 60k miles. We purchased 100k mile warranty when we bought the car new. The past year or so, the car will stall just after starting. There is no rhyme or reason as to when it will do it (hot, cold, morning, day, night, etc.). It will stall after starting and won't start after several attempts. You wait approximately 10 minutes and it will start just fine. This happens about 2x monthly, sometimes more sometimes less. Toyota has no idea what it is, they tried cleaning up the carbon buildup.
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Vehicle is a 2005 Toyota Sequoia SR5. Door locks cycle on and off. Happens during wet weather and usually takes 2-3 hours of driving. Sounds like there is a relay shorting out so that even though the doors are already locked, it attempts to relock them. If I unlock doors using the rocker switch, immediately locks them.
Then the lock mechanism tries to lock them again, and cycles through this every 10 seconds to 3-4 minutes randomly. Is there a relay under the hood which might do this when moisture enters the engine compartment? If so, where is it located and what is the part number.
One mechanic suggested that I replace the multiples computer located in the rear tailgate but he wasn't very clear about why he thought that was the case.
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I was driving in 4wd this weekend and when I tried to get out of 4wd the center light won't go out. My truck also won't turn "tight " turns like its "stuck". How do I get this light to go out? We tried what the owners manual said and it didn't work.Will this hurt the truck to drive it like this????
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sequoia that started having problems with the intermittent setting on the wipers. It is now to the point that it runs just like the slow wiper setting with no delay, it also doesn't "park" the wipers when turned off. I found that with the ignition in ACC position the wipers work perfectly (intermittent works and wiper "parks" properly when turned off) but when the engine is running I only have a Low or High wiper speed and no "Parking". I have researched online and most say to replace switch or wiper motor but both work with engine off so I am wandering if it is being overpowered with the engine running.
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2001 toyota sequoia had oil changed but the oil leak out within 1/2 a mile. Engine automatically shut off. Oil was refilled but when we tried starting it, it would not run. The engine would crank over and over but would not get to the point where it would run or start. Ive been told there may be a safety shut off unit that activates when there is very low oil or no oil at all. What may have actually happened? Can a motor seize within a few minutes of driving @ 40 mph?
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what's causes the "vsc/trac" warning light and "vsc off" indicator light come on and off, together with the "brake" warning light while i'm driving?
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I just had the ignition switch replaced on my 2001 Toyota Sequioa. Now my blinkers work but will not shut off after I complete the turn. Additionally, the blinker "stick" is very hard to move in either direction. I plan to take my car back to the dealer and politely request this blinker repair be warranty work.
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My wife has a 2007 Toyota Sequoia with only 17,000 miles on it (as of Mar 2013). It has had regular scheduled maintenance - engine oil changes, etc. However, due to low mileage, it has never had Transmission or Radiator fluid changed. All miles have been in town, short trips. Is there a need to have these fluids changed just due to the age of the Sequoia and type of miles driven. It is an expense I would rather not do unless necessary. We do plan on keeping it to well past 100,000 miles. Considering the age and miles, is there anything else that I should be watchful for or take action on?
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2001 Toyota Sequoia LTD, 115,000 miles, replaced cal & discs & steering rack bushings early last year. Lately after 20 to 30 minutes of hwy at 70mph touching the brakes to shave off 10 to 15mph causes heavy vibrations from the front brakes like the wheels aren't round. No lights, ABS or VSC, no noise from the ABS unit. Same in 2WD, 4WD, VSC on or off. Touch the brakes from 70mph and it feels like slowing/stopping on washboard??? Tech checked, no codes present . Brakes function fine around town as does the ABS & VSC, alignment good.
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I recently noticed louder than normal road noise coming from he front end of my SUV, which is right at 150K miles. I thought it was bad tires; both front ones had uneven wear. Got new ones and the noise is still there, loudest at 35-45 mph. The tire guys said I need new tie rod ends. From what little I know about those, they don't make the kind of noise I'm getting, but what do I know. I do know they are safety hazard and plan to get them fixed pronto. But will that fix the noise? I had the left side wheel bearings replaced last year, but this sound is not the same as this. Much less pronounced, but still fairly bothersome.
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Yesterday my transmission slipped as I accelerated from a stop off the highway exit ramp. It grabbed almost immediately and no problems till I got to my destination about 2 miles down the road.......fluid was dripping from the underneath the engine......reddish/pink fluid. Engine was not over heated (according to the gauge). Pulled car off driveway and down the road a bit and transmission was really slipping when trying to accelerate quickly (no issue with slow acceleration). Checked transmission fluid and it was not covering the stick. I thought maybe I burst a transmission coolant line but upon inspection no fluid on that.
So I added 1 quart of transmission fluid this morning and started the car to hope to find the leak. No immediate leaking the transmission case, seals or lines. But I did notice that when I started the car the coolant reservoir was "bubbling". After about 5 minutes to allow the engine to warm and the coolant gauge to come to normal operating range I noticed coolant reservoir/overfill spewing out a pinkish foamy fluid and then checking the transmission fluid level it was drained again (no fluid on stick when running). One last fact....the fluid temp coming from the overflow was cold, so was the radiator fluid after I popped off the radiator cap.....but the dashboard temperature coolant gauge was at the mid point/normal operating temperature of the scale.
So my question is......where do I take the car to have it looked at......a transmission shop, or a typical full service mechanic? Is the transmission fluid co-mingling with the coolant fluid and if so how does that happen?
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My 94 Toyota Pickup is having a strange intermittent issue. Engine will run hot, like the thermostat is stuck periodically. Does not overheat, just runs much closer to the red than usual. Again this only happens sometimes. It is worth noting that it is winter here in Northern Sonoma County, CA, so it may actually get into the red if I were driving around in the summer. I have also not taken it on trips over 30 miles when it was doing this.
When this problem occurs (e.g. the engine has been running hot) and I shut the truck off and say run into the store, then come back to a heat soaked engine it idles very rough when started (like it's missing on one cylinder). Once I put it in gear and start driving the idle smooths out and I have no problems. Problem has been going on for about a week.
Sticking thermostat seems obvious but that does not explain the rough idle on start up. Or does it. If so why?
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My 89 Corolla started overheating when I turn on the AC. If I don't use the AC, the temp. is fine. 2-3 min. after turning on AC, temp. gauge rises and I must turn off AC. My husband, a devout CT listener has some mechanical skills & ck'd it out. He replaced the fan relay, but that didn't fix it. History: the 1st time it happened, the AC was on and blowing cool air, suddenly, the air wasn't cool and I noticed the temp. rising and turned off the AC. I stopped and checked the radiator fluid and it was low, so filled the overflow with coolant. Drove home (30 min.) and it was fine.
A week later, same thing - I'm on the freeway, air is blowing cool, then not and heats up. Ck'd radiator - fluid level is fine. Problem was somewhat intermittent as it wasn't happening 'all the time'. Yesterday, same thing again on the way to see the dentist 40 min. out in mid-afternoon sweltering heat. Had to drive there and back with no AC - quite miserable. Replaced the thermostat not too long ago and the radiator also had to be replaced year before last. I have health issues and really can't handle the heat and fumes and must have AC in this climate. We can't afford to take it to a mechanic. If this car goes, them I'm car-less. It's a great car and keeps on going - 240,000+ miles.
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2002 LS V8 3.9 201k miles.
For the second time in about 4 months, the engine tried to overheat. I quickly turned on the heat to cool it down and as before, the engine temperature went to back to normal. I tuned the heat off and it drove just fine.
The thermostat and all that plastic housing around it was replaced about 6 months ago. There is plenty of coolant and no leaks.
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A couple days ago I saw that my Toyota Camry was overheating, the gauge was going about 3/4s of the way and then returning to normal. I had then replaced the T-stat but noticed the fans were not running, so I replaced the relay as it tested bad. The fans then started to work when the A/C was turned on, but I noticed the car was still going 3/4s of the way then returning to normal.
So, I took it to a mechanic and looked for his opinion on it, he tested it and said that everything is working fine and when the engine gets hot enough the fans kick on, bit the gauge still hits 3/4s hot and then returns to normal. My mechanic said that he has seen this before in other car models and that everything is working as intended. I was just wondering if this is a common occurrence with some cars? Or should I look for other possible problems? I've never personally owned a car that looked like it was overheating then quickly corrected itself.
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I have a Toyota Avalon 2001. When the dashboard multi-display reports a temperature >84oF, the clock and/or trip odometers reset, and other readings go blank.When the car cools sufficiently, all functions resume (though clock time has to be reset).
The problem has been narrowed to the multi-display module or its connectors.
Is there a way to keep the car interior cool when it sits unused in a parking lot?
I currently leave the windows open ~2in behind rain covers, installed last year, that prevent unpredictable thunderstorms from introducing mold through the partially opened windows.I currently use a reflector in the window. Both of these observably drop the cabin temperature ~20oF ,yet it is not enough.I have tried a fan, powered by the car's battery, but extrapolation from measurements indicates that before any fan moves enough air to have significant effect, it will leave the battery too drained to start the car.A solar panel powered fan generates more heat than it removes.
Is there a way to remove the expose (and reseat) the multi display connectors, by just removing the padding above the dashboard?
I have the service manual, but have not yet found how to get access to the multi display, without removing the seats, and all cowlings from the center console forward.
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I have a 220k 1994 Corolla with I have come across a couple problems recently. It all started about a week ago when I decided to change my rear brake shoes. The old ones turned out to be all cracked and everything but were generally in pretty good shape in terms of wear. Anyways I put the new shoes in (my first brake job) and tightened up the e brake cable and went for a test drive. I walked away extremely satisfied, the e brake worked perfect which was my main reason for changing the shoes in the first place.
Basically the whole thing worked perfectly until 2 days later. I was driving for about 8 miles when my brake pedal suddenly fell through to the floor (or pretty close) at first I even thought I hit the clutch pedal! anyways after pumping the pedal a few times my pedal feel returned about 70% and after another maybe 10 seconds braking power was lost again until I pumped the pedal. So lucky for me my destination was a 1/4 mile away so I parked and checked the fluid level; it was at the max mark, then I check the wheels/drums and they were REALLY hot.
Also the driver's side drum had a faint smell of brake fluid. Anyways about an hour later I went for a short drive and the brakes worked fine so an hour after that I drove the 8 miles home and about 1/8 of a mile from home same thing happened; brake pedal basically goes almost down to the floor until pumped. My thoughts were that the new shoes were constantly rubbing and the old fluid overheated and caused failure so I flushed the system and put new fluid in and adjusted the shoes "in" with the click adjuster bolt. I had a really hard time getting the drums of to begin with. That and I loosened the e brake cable just in case.
So the next morning I drive about 5 miles without using the brakes pulled over to check that the drums were not heating up anymore (they weren't) so I thought I had fixed it. Well 3 days later (last night) I was experiencing the rear brake stickiness again. Basically when I was just moving from a stop where I had used the e brake to secure the car, I could literally feel that the rear brakes were stopping the car pretty aggressively and sure enough after a few more miles my brake pedal fell through so I poured water on the drums and they started to let off lots of steam, even after like 10 bottles!
So I limped to my friends house at 12:00 AM and jacked my car for a look. Again the drums really didn't want to come off and once we did get them off my friends dad inspected them and could find anything wrong with my installation. The conclusion that we came to was that the auto adjustor for the shoes makes the shoes too tight and they rub. So I am thinking maybe this is cause for the fluid to overheat and boil, causing the pedal to fall through. The pedal fell has gotten much worse since I bled the system 3 days ago so that may be an indicator. Did a test this morning for 5 miles and the drums were just below lukewarm.
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I have a 2001 toyota camry ce in Miami, fl which is overheating. the fans seem to come on only if i turn on the a/c. however the temperature still rises and gauge needle hits red. if on idle the fans never come on. observed fluid inside radiator with cap off and it does not run through while on idle with a/c off, it just gets hot. changed thermostat and added new 50-50 antifreeze, still same. I'm suspecting a switch but why is fluid never running even when hot? I even drive it with hood open (unlatched) to let a bit more air in and still overheats, even with a/c on and fans running (again, they only turn on with a/c on), it overheats.
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