Toyota - Sequoia :: 2001- LTD Front Brake Vibrations Like The Wheels Aren't Round
Nov 13, 2014
2001 Toyota Sequoia LTD, 115,000 miles, replaced cal & discs & steering rack bushings early last year. Lately after 20 to 30 minutes of hwy at 70mph touching the brakes to shave off 10 to 15mph causes heavy vibrations from the front brakes like the wheels aren't round. No lights, ABS or VSC, no noise from the ABS unit. Same in 2WD, 4WD, VSC on or off. Touch the brakes from 70mph and it feels like slowing/stopping on washboard??? Tech checked, no codes present . Brakes function fine around town as does the ABS & VSC, alignment good.
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what's causes the "vsc/trac" warning light and "vsc off" indicator light come on and off, together with the "brake" warning light while i'm driving?
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I was driving in 4wd this weekend and when I tried to get out of 4wd the center light won't go out. My truck also won't turn "tight " turns like its "stuck". How do I get this light to go out? We tried what the owners manual said and it didn't work.Will this hurt the truck to drive it like this????
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sequoia that started having problems with the intermittent setting on the wipers. It is now to the point that it runs just like the slow wiper setting with no delay, it also doesn't "park" the wipers when turned off. I found that with the ignition in ACC position the wipers work perfectly (intermittent works and wiper "parks" properly when turned off) but when the engine is running I only have a Low or High wiper speed and no "Parking". I have researched online and most say to replace switch or wiper motor but both work with engine off so I am wandering if it is being overpowered with the engine running.
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2001 toyota sequoia had oil changed but the oil leak out within 1/2 a mile. Engine automatically shut off. Oil was refilled but when we tried starting it, it would not run. The engine would crank over and over but would not get to the point where it would run or start. Ive been told there may be a safety shut off unit that activates when there is very low oil or no oil at all. What may have actually happened? Can a motor seize within a few minutes of driving @ 40 mph?
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I recently noticed louder than normal road noise coming from he front end of my SUV, which is right at 150K miles. I thought it was bad tires; both front ones had uneven wear. Got new ones and the noise is still there, loudest at 35-45 mph. The tire guys said I need new tie rod ends. From what little I know about those, they don't make the kind of noise I'm getting, but what do I know. I do know they are safety hazard and plan to get them fixed pronto. But will that fix the noise? I had the left side wheel bearings replaced last year, but this sound is not the same as this. Much less pronounced, but still fairly bothersome.
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I just had the ignition switch replaced on my 2001 Toyota Sequioa. Now my blinkers work but will not shut off after I complete the turn. Additionally, the blinker "stick" is very hard to move in either direction. I plan to take my car back to the dealer and politely request this blinker repair be warranty work.
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When I brake slow to stop or go slow round corner brake pedal judders with a brake judder noise I have read it could be cv axle or the ring tone or sensor cable.
I have replaced front discs and pads because I thought it was that but not then abs light came on and went back off and and one time stayed for awhile.
Santa Fe 05 Diesel 48000 on clock
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Yesterday my transmission slipped as I accelerated from a stop off the highway exit ramp. It grabbed almost immediately and no problems till I got to my destination about 2 miles down the road.......fluid was dripping from the underneath the engine......reddish/pink fluid. Engine was not over heated (according to the gauge). Pulled car off driveway and down the road a bit and transmission was really slipping when trying to accelerate quickly (no issue with slow acceleration). Checked transmission fluid and it was not covering the stick. I thought maybe I burst a transmission coolant line but upon inspection no fluid on that.
So I added 1 quart of transmission fluid this morning and started the car to hope to find the leak. No immediate leaking the transmission case, seals or lines. But I did notice that when I started the car the coolant reservoir was "bubbling". After about 5 minutes to allow the engine to warm and the coolant gauge to come to normal operating range I noticed coolant reservoir/overfill spewing out a pinkish foamy fluid and then checking the transmission fluid level it was drained again (no fluid on stick when running). One last fact....the fluid temp coming from the overflow was cold, so was the radiator fluid after I popped off the radiator cap.....but the dashboard temperature coolant gauge was at the mid point/normal operating temperature of the scale.
So my question is......where do I take the car to have it looked at......a transmission shop, or a typical full service mechanic? Is the transmission fluid co-mingling with the coolant fluid and if so how does that happen?
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so I am coming up my driveway with about 4 inches of snow.... with TC on... and it bogged and stopped.... soi was like huh.... lets put this bitch to the test... so I put it back in gear, and it bogged and stalled..... so I am stuck... I live up a pretty steep hill and I have the Haldex mod.. but it seems that the rear wheels aren't spinning in both TC mode and non-TC.
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What would cause me to have to replace several of the same ignition coils in less than two years time? It seems like it always happens after I purchase gas.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Sequoia, V8 4.7L that overheats only when the A/C is turned on. Without A/C on, it runs perfectly normal. I have replaced the thermostat twice, replaced the radiator, replaced the electric A/C cooling fan, replaced the fan clutch, and just recently replaced the water pump (wow, what a job that was!). Even with all these repairs, the engine still overheats only with the A/C on. What to do next?!
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We have an 01 Sport Trac as a backup vehicle and it has the 3 position rotary switch on the dash for 4wd.
The transfer case engages and disengages but the front wheels seem to stay engaged with the front differential.
There are no manual hubs and I really don't think it should ALWAYS be engaged like that.
What is the probable issue and ALSO can manual hubs be installed on this truck?
Someone mentioned vacuum engagement? but I didn't see any vacuum hoses near the spindles. Didn't see any wires either other than ABS...
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We have a 2008 Toyota Sequoia with 60k miles. We purchased 100k mile warranty when we bought the car new. The past year or so, the car will stall just after starting. There is no rhyme or reason as to when it will do it (hot, cold, morning, day, night, etc.). It will stall after starting and won't start after several attempts. You wait approximately 10 minutes and it will start just fine. This happens about 2x monthly, sometimes more sometimes less. Toyota has no idea what it is, they tried cleaning up the carbon buildup.
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Vehicle is a 2005 Toyota Sequoia SR5. Door locks cycle on and off. Happens during wet weather and usually takes 2-3 hours of driving. Sounds like there is a relay shorting out so that even though the doors are already locked, it attempts to relock them. If I unlock doors using the rocker switch, immediately locks them.
Then the lock mechanism tries to lock them again, and cycles through this every 10 seconds to 3-4 minutes randomly. Is there a relay under the hood which might do this when moisture enters the engine compartment? If so, where is it located and what is the part number.
One mechanic suggested that I replace the multiples computer located in the rear tailgate but he wasn't very clear about why he thought that was the case.
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OK, so the front end of the car is on jack stands. The rear is planted on the ground. The car is in park.
Yet, I'm able to spin the front wheels with my hand.
Wouldn't putting it in park lock the wheels via the transmission?
The car is a FWD 2007 Corolla....
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The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
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'94 Ranger with aluminum wheels.
I have problems with slow leaks and vibrations from multiple wheels. Both problems have persisted through multiple tire changes over the years. The same shop has always done the tire changes and they tell me they've been balancing the wheels and cleaning the inner rims. The vibration went away after putting on my B2 wheels. Then swapping the rears back to the ranger wheels, 2 at a time, the vibration was back for both test drives (hence vibrations from multiple wheels).
The wheels are badly corroded at the rims and valve stems which leads me to believe it's the wheels themselves that are causing the leaks. I haven't heard of excessively old wheels causing vibrations though which is why I ask. I will likely be buying some craigslist or junkyard replacement wheels but wanted to "check in" first.
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My wife has a 2007 Toyota Sequoia with only 17,000 miles on it (as of Mar 2013). It has had regular scheduled maintenance - engine oil changes, etc. However, due to low mileage, it has never had Transmission or Radiator fluid changed. All miles have been in town, short trips. Is there a need to have these fluids changed just due to the age of the Sequoia and type of miles driven. It is an expense I would rather not do unless necessary. We do plan on keeping it to well past 100,000 miles. Considering the age and miles, is there anything else that I should be watchful for or take action on?
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I recently (<90 days, < 3K miles) had inner & outer tie rods replaced on the right side; they were rusted from when I lived in PA and had some play in them. Now I'm hearing a funny sound at low speeds (like when parking) that's just like a stick getting caught in the wheel well ("thunk") that seems to be coming from the same spot, but I can't seem to replicate it let alone hear it at the shop. This is a 2001 Camry LE 2.2L I4 with 97K mostly highway miles and one winter on salt/snow.
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I have a 2010 F-150 Lariat 4X4 and the front wheels get brake dust and rust staining on them. What is the best wheel cleaner to use to get rid of this? I thought about muratic acid but am afraid of damaging the finish on the wheels.
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