Toyota - Sequoia :: 2001 - Ignition Switch Replacement Causes Blinker Failure
Aug 14, 2012
I just had the ignition switch replaced on my 2001 Toyota Sequioa. Now my blinkers work but will not shut off after I complete the turn. Additionally, the blinker "stick" is very hard to move in either direction. I plan to take my car back to the dealer and politely request this blinker repair be warranty work.
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What would cause me to have to replace several of the same ignition coils in less than two years time? It seems like it always happens after I purchase gas.
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I was driving in 4wd this weekend and when I tried to get out of 4wd the center light won't go out. My truck also won't turn "tight " turns like its "stuck". How do I get this light to go out? We tried what the owners manual said and it didn't work.Will this hurt the truck to drive it like this????
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sequoia that started having problems with the intermittent setting on the wipers. It is now to the point that it runs just like the slow wiper setting with no delay, it also doesn't "park" the wipers when turned off. I found that with the ignition in ACC position the wipers work perfectly (intermittent works and wiper "parks" properly when turned off) but when the engine is running I only have a Low or High wiper speed and no "Parking". I have researched online and most say to replace switch or wiper motor but both work with engine off so I am wandering if it is being overpowered with the engine running.
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The previous owner broke the key off in the ignition so I replace the ignition lock cylinder the problem is though even with the old one I can't turn the key to lock so it's stuck on acc. What I can try without replacing the entire column? Also it needs a catalytic converter, do I have to weld a universal one on ?
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2001 toyota sequoia had oil changed but the oil leak out within 1/2 a mile. Engine automatically shut off. Oil was refilled but when we tried starting it, it would not run. The engine would crank over and over but would not get to the point where it would run or start. Ive been told there may be a safety shut off unit that activates when there is very low oil or no oil at all. What may have actually happened? Can a motor seize within a few minutes of driving @ 40 mph?
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I also have a problem with my left blinker and my break lights. My right blinker works just fine, but my left blinker and break lights will not come on unless I pull the blinker switch forward a bit- as if I'm going to turn my brights on.
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I am the (once) proud owner of a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. I have owned the car for one year, putting only 12,000 miles on it (was 109,000 when I bought it.) The car has run quite well—I have not had any problems out of it (unlike the 1999-2005 generation Impalas). But, as many of you may have heard, GM had some massive recalls as of late. Many of the cars have had fatal ignition switch failures. Basically every single Impala in the last (my) generation has been recalled.
Take any other keys/paraphernalia off of the chain—basically, just insert the key into the ignition, unattached to anything. This is the fix for the time being, apparently—until they can get ignition switches for however many hundred thousand Impalas they have to fix.
I am about to make a 3 hour drive. Now, that wouldn't be the longest drive that I have made in this car (and I cringe at the idea that, driving 17 hours with a bunch of crap hanging off of my chain, that my car easily could have been one of the unfortunate ones.)
Now that I know that I cannot be sure of the safety of my vehicle, I need to know what to do in the case of an emergency. I want to know what exactly the situation of an ignition switch failure entails...basically, what happens to my car and my ability to control the car. Lastly, I need to know what to do if this happens.
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2001 Toyota Sequoia LTD, 115,000 miles, replaced cal & discs & steering rack bushings early last year. Lately after 20 to 30 minutes of hwy at 70mph touching the brakes to shave off 10 to 15mph causes heavy vibrations from the front brakes like the wheels aren't round. No lights, ABS or VSC, no noise from the ABS unit. Same in 2WD, 4WD, VSC on or off. Touch the brakes from 70mph and it feels like slowing/stopping on washboard??? Tech checked, no codes present . Brakes function fine around town as does the ABS & VSC, alignment good.
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Key has been "loose" for some time. Would sometimes be able to remove it with engine running. Earlier today I could not return the key to shut off to stop the engine. Pulled a fuse to shut down the engine and then disconnected the battery. With the battery connection restored, the key will return to start and crank, but only will spin towards shut off and will no longer de-energize. Is this a cylinder replacement fix? Tried a very seldom used key to no avail.
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Yesterday my transmission slipped as I accelerated from a stop off the highway exit ramp. It grabbed almost immediately and no problems till I got to my destination about 2 miles down the road.......fluid was dripping from the underneath the engine......reddish/pink fluid. Engine was not over heated (according to the gauge). Pulled car off driveway and down the road a bit and transmission was really slipping when trying to accelerate quickly (no issue with slow acceleration). Checked transmission fluid and it was not covering the stick. I thought maybe I burst a transmission coolant line but upon inspection no fluid on that.
So I added 1 quart of transmission fluid this morning and started the car to hope to find the leak. No immediate leaking the transmission case, seals or lines. But I did notice that when I started the car the coolant reservoir was "bubbling". After about 5 minutes to allow the engine to warm and the coolant gauge to come to normal operating range I noticed coolant reservoir/overfill spewing out a pinkish foamy fluid and then checking the transmission fluid level it was drained again (no fluid on stick when running). One last fact....the fluid temp coming from the overflow was cold, so was the radiator fluid after I popped off the radiator cap.....but the dashboard temperature coolant gauge was at the mid point/normal operating temperature of the scale.
So my question is......where do I take the car to have it looked at......a transmission shop, or a typical full service mechanic? Is the transmission fluid co-mingling with the coolant fluid and if so how does that happen?
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This is a truck at work, I had my student workers put in a new blinker switch, and when they were done it won't start anymore. The "theft" light is flashing on the dash, so I guess the PATS system thinks it was tampered with. How could you trigger this by changing the blinker switch? Does this have to be reset by a dealer?
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Is it possible to change the ignition switch without the key. Problem is my old key broke so im replacing the whole switch.
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I am having a little issue with the ignition in my car. I had the typical no headlights/wipers/heater etc. so I ordered up a new ignition switch and when I went to replace it, the switch fit perfectly and had the correct part number but when I put my key in to try and start the car I couldn't even turn the key but when I put the old switch back in it would turn just fine. Also when I removed the old switch I noticed the red wire going to the switch was slightly burnt right at the terminal.
Here is the basic procedure I did:
-Unhook negative battery cable
-remove lower dash/ center console
-remove switch
-install new switch
Whats this little metal piece? I did not see that when I did mine...
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I have a 97 grand prix GTP that I am replacing the ignition switch on. I am having trouble locating the small hole on the key cylinder that I put an allen wrench into to release the key cylinder.
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I have a 1997 F150 that I have taken to a mechanic twice and it is still not right. I had a igination switch replaced and now when the humidity is really high
(I am Guessing), I can have the key in the house and my truck lights flash the radio is on and it sounds like it is trying to start. How hard is it to replace the igination switch myself. I believe it has a short someone in the steering column.
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Engine runs very erratically and I got ignition failure codes on all cylinders plus mixture too lean code. 2 years ago I changed the gadget that sticks right into the middle of the engine and regulates the mixture and the issue disappeared. bought the part from rockauto. should I change sparks and ignition cables or order the same part again? Never changed the ignition cables and sparks.
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97 Toyota Camry 2.2l motor.
Sometimes, when I turn the ignition on I don't hear a sound and all the power dies in the car (the radio ejects the CD and all the presets are erased when I turn it out of start). This can happen once or twice in a row then generally the car starts up normally.
The battery is brand new (1 month) and is fully charged. My hope is that it's the starter drawing too much power when it tries to start? It's entirely possible it has the factory starter still on the car.
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Just got this car it's 2001 gti turbo. The guy said that the key fob was back. But I changed the starter and still no luck. It had all new plugs and I went to check for spark and there was no spark or fuel. So then I got a new crankshaft sensor and still no luck. I haven't gotten the chance to check for spark yet. And now those lights and beeping keep happening even without the key In the ignition. Can it be the ignition switch or something worse?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Sequoia, V8 4.7L that overheats only when the A/C is turned on. Without A/C on, it runs perfectly normal. I have replaced the thermostat twice, replaced the radiator, replaced the electric A/C cooling fan, replaced the fan clutch, and just recently replaced the water pump (wow, what a job that was!). Even with all these repairs, the engine still overheats only with the A/C on. What to do next?!
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We have a 2008 Toyota Sequoia with 60k miles. We purchased 100k mile warranty when we bought the car new. The past year or so, the car will stall just after starting. There is no rhyme or reason as to when it will do it (hot, cold, morning, day, night, etc.). It will stall after starting and won't start after several attempts. You wait approximately 10 minutes and it will start just fine. This happens about 2x monthly, sometimes more sometimes less. Toyota has no idea what it is, they tried cleaning up the carbon buildup.
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