Toyota - Repair - Blower-motors - Yaris - Airconditioning :: 2007 - A/C Not Working?
Jan 30, 2011
A couple of months ago my Yaris was hit just behind the driver side door by a Ford F150, luckily traveling at a low speed. Other than body damage, my car seemed to be fine. After driving the car around for 2 weeks with the damage then taking it in for its 10 day repair, I brought home my wonderful little car. I live in Florida and even though it's winter, we had a rather warm day, just a couple days after bringing my car back home. I turned on the AC and ...nothing came out. So I tried it on higher settings and ...still nothing came out until I got to the highest blower setting. Suddenly it sounded like someone had turned a blender on inside my car but some air was making its way out of my blowers.
I called the shop that did my repairs and they said "well, you probably just blew a fuse. It's not accident related so we can't take care of it without charging you." My understanding was that I would not be able to get my blower to work at all if a fuse was blown, and my air certainly worked following the accident and prior to getting repairs done. If a fuse was blown, I'm willing to bet a lot of money that the shop was responsible. ...the fact that they also broke my glove compartment, got paint all over my seat, and made my car smell like a paint store also make me weary of using them again, but my insurance company swears by them. First of all, what is wrong with my car? Second of all, how do I fix it?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 106,000 miles on it. Sometimes when I turn on the air conditioner/heater fan, nothing happens. It doesn't blow any air at all, hot or cold out of the vents, and it makes no sound. Other times, when I turn it on, it works fine and it blows ice cold air out of the air conditioning vents like it's supposed to. I always try to remember to turn off the air conditioning when I leave my car before I turn off the engine, but it seems to make no difference as to whether the fan will work the next morning when I get in my car. What's wrong with the air conditioning/heater fan, and how much it will cost a mechanic to fix it?
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The air conditioning blower motor stopped working this past summer (worst timing ever). I took it out, put it back in, and it worked again for a day before dying for good. So, I ordered a new one and replaced it. The replacement was working fine for about 5 months, but it then began exhibiting the same problem as the original: it wouldn't come on until after I'd been driving for a while. The new unit never made any unusual noises while running (the old one got noisy just before I replaced it), but now it isn't coming on at all. I find it hard to believe that the replacement blower motor has failed after only 5 months. What else should I check?
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My 2009 Toyota Venza has had this issue off an on for about a year now, but it's becoming more frequent lately. When you start the car, the AC is often not working. It will be lit up, and on full power, but there is little, if any, air coming out of the vents. And then, if you get up to speed on the highway, or hit a bump, suddenly it's working. When it works, it works well, but when it doesn't, there's nothing you can do besides wait.
The mechanic looked at it today and couldn't diagnose it because it was working when I arrived and he wasn't able to duplicate the problem. They checked the blower motor and the connection and they were both fine. He said to come back when it's not working and try not to hit a bump on the way. I'm a little frustrated. What it could be?
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How to change a 2003 toyota echo blower motor.... Looking for a step by step directions ....
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I have a 2000 Lexus RX300, with over 200k miles. The motor blower is making this very (at times) loud noise. To take a closer look, I removed the glove compartment to take a better look at the unit itself. I took a closer look at the blower motor itself and it looks like the top piece of the cone is cracked a little. This is where the little clamp ring is located on the tip of the cone. The noise is definitely coming from this area. I was going to just replace it, but could there be anything wrong with maybe one of the servo motors as well (Airmax or Mode)? It seems that at times (out side of the main noise) the air is not being distributed properly.
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Big Horn, 5.8L V8 Hemi my air conditioning only works when I'm driving forward, and does not work at all any more when I'm sitting still at an idle. this is a new problem. the A/C has worked like a champ for the past year (since I started using this vehicle). I even refilled it by myself last summer, with no issues until now. when it is at idle, I hear a clicking coming from the A/C system, and the RPM's arch a little bit. then it clicks again, and the RPM's go back down. it does this 2-3 times a minute. also when at idle, the air is VERY HOT, considerably warmer than the outside air. also, I have a pressure gauge for the A/C system (came with the refill kit last summer) and it says that the system is holding too much pressure. it suggests a possible mechanical problem.
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How to replace a blower motor in a 1990 Audi 80 Quattro? I looked for a Chilton and I looked online but couldn't get any info. Actually they don't make a Chilton for Audi during this year. And I couldn't locate any Haynes manuals either.
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The car required a new water pump, the mechanic suggested to also replace the serpentine belt because of age - after a week the car made high pitch noise when started, the noise stopped after the initial start-at the shop it was explained that a new serpentine belt requires tightening after the car has been driven for a while - like a week- is this correct or was the belt not installed correctly....
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I just bought my first car: a 2007 Toyota Yaris. It has a torn CV boot on the driver's side (don't worry, I was aware of this when I bought it). I've done my homework, and I understand that if I do nothing, at some point I will start to hear a clicking or clunking sound when turning the wheel, that will gradually grow louder over time. Eventually, I'll be driving along, and the CV joint will break for good, resulting in either:
a) the gas pedal won't propel the car, I will slam on the breaks and be stuck on the side of the road, or
b) (in rare cases) the driver's side wheel will fly off, leaving me stuck in the ditch, and possibly dead.
I don't want
a) to happen, but I really don't want
b)! I've also learned that replacing the whole CV axle is probably the best fix for this, and that the a cheap way to do it is to order the part myself and bring it to a mechanic.
So here's my question: Should I absolutely be fixing this before I drive to Michigan? In other words, if I don't fix, and then get 50 miles into driving to Michigan, and start hearing that click-click-click sound, am I screwed? Once the clicking starts, do you think the joint would fail before 1500 miles, or do I have a grace period?
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I have an 07 Toyota Vitz and Side lamps, Tailgate lamps and number plate light are remaining off... Normal and bright works fine...
Checked fusses and are all good.
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My Wife has a 1984 and I have a 1985 Toyota Pickup, 2wd, 22R engine, same dash and almost same everything. There are 4 settings on the selector switch (horizontal lever switch moving from left-to-right) for the blower fan: "Off", "Low", "Med" & "High". In both trucks, the "Low" setting for the BLOWER FANS quit working, but the other settings still work fine and amount heat-output is fine(so this is a FAN problem and not a "heating" problem).
Is the problem in the switch itself?, or in the blower fan resistor?, or in the blower fan motor? From what I've read elsewhere, it seems to be a blower fan Resister problem that is most likely. If that is the case, where exactly should I be looking for it and will I need to remove the dashboard? And what does it look like? I've seen a small black object about 1"x 1.75"x 1.75" and it has an Amperage listing on it and it's next to a Relay that seems to be related to the heater. I'm guessing that thing is not the resister if it's labeled "Amperage", I would think it should have an "Ohms" symbol or word or rating on it if it were the resistor, or is that really "it".
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe . The AC blower fan will have some days where it just doesn't work. I have taken it to the dealer on 4 occasions without the issue being rectified. It seems that unless it isn't working on the day , they won't even look for an issue.
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Recently I had an overheating problem with 98 Montana Transport. I had the fan motors replaced because they weren't turning. That didn't solve the problem tho, it overheated again, it had been slowly losing coolant. Mechanic had the heads repaired (were warped) and replaced head gasket, manifold gasket, valve cover gasket and drained replaced fluids and had plug wires and sparkplugs replaced also.
When he brought it back the radio wasn't working. I know that's not a mechanical problem, but why it's not working. I asked him and he said he's a mechanic and doesn't know about radios. He did say that it might have something to do with the anti theft system, but I don't have a clue how to reset. Since the van is older, where could I find out about the codes for resetting? He checked the fuses too.
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I bought a 2007 Toyota Yaris about 12,000 miles ago in March of this year. Automatic transmission, it now has around 72,500 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed a "clunking" sound/feeling when I shift from park to drive while on an incline. It doesn't matter if I am going from park to reverse, or visa versa. It is more of a feeling... like something is broken and shifting forward or backwards more quickly/violently that it should, but I can hear it slightly. There is no such sound/sensation on level ground.
Temperature/weather is not a factor. Is this a symptom of a bad motor mount/tranny mount? I had a bad motor mount on a previous car, and experienced a rattling noise while idling. There is no such noise or vibration with this car. I do not have a stable mechanic yet and would like an opinion before I try and establish a relationship with one (considering I am a small 25 year old woman who looks 17-18 years old, and I am not normally taken seriously).
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In January I had to replace my engine in a 2007 Toyota Yaris. Last week we had the first day, since the engine replacement, that I needed to use the air. The fan blows air, it just isn't cold. Could this be anything to do with the engine replacement? Maybe they didn't hook something up properly? Do the drain the coolant to the ac when they take out the engine? I have been reading that it may simply be a fuse or needs to be charged. I realize I should have checked the a/c when I picked it up, but at -8 below, air conditioning doesn't cross your mind.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
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I have had this car for about a year now, no problems other than the check engine light has come on and after a code check found out its the Cat converter *yay*.
Most recently the A/C blower is working rather intermittent, can start off blowing just fine and then the blower seems to decrease while the screen still shows it on high. AC temp is just fine, just the blower is having issues. Sometimes it will turn off all together and not come back on at all for several hours. I am thinking it might be the fan motor, but I don't know enough about these cars to say for certain.
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The dash temp gauge reads in the middle between hot and cold within a few minutes of running. However, it takes about 20 minutes for hot air to come out the heater vents when the heater is set to maximum heat and the fan is on. What should I check and in what order?
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247,000 miles on '98 Toyota Camry as of last summer, car owed us nothing. Suddenly lost oil a month after regular oil change, ruined engine. Mechanic found used engine from totaled car (w/ approx 65,000 miles). Current problems:
1. speedometer/odometer not working,
2. heater/blower stopped working this week, blower makes a LOUD, HIGH FREQUENCY sound, sort of like a siren.
Was hoping to get another 2 years from her considering recent cash outlay. The mechanic couldn't figure out issue #1, and he hasn't looked at it since #2 started this week. I guess we can live w/ issue #1, but #2 has to be fixed ...
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2007. Blower motor not working. Replaced 2 fuses for blower motor and relay. Blower motor working. Horrible racket and steam coming from under car when I engaged car. I took the fuses back out. Air conditioner stuck on. I had to take the Compressor fuse out also. Car drives fine just have no heat/air.
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