Toyota - Rav4 - Transmissions :: 2001 - Car Revs To 4K Rpm Without Moving / Hesitate Then Drive
Apr 8, 2011
I have a 2001 RAV4 4WD. I gave the car to my sister. When she and other family members drive it, the car revs to 4K rpm without moving, hesitate, then drives. It is dangerous to merge. I know there is a bulletin on this problem for model years 2001 to 2003, and Toyota will replace the ECU and transmission, if damaged, extending the warranty to 150K miles or 10 years (the car has 108K miles, and approaching 10 years). However, no engine light and no code shows up.
We took it to 2 transmission specialists; both will not touch the transmission because they (independent of each other) feel it's the ECU. (We have used them in the past for other cars.) We then took it to 2 Toyota dealerships; Toyota won't fix it, recommends replacing the transmission. We are stuck because we can't get answers and can't get any solutions to our problem.
We called Toyota; the Toyota case worker has been useless, says he sees nothing wrong with the car and said it's safe to drive (it's not, especially when merging). Both local transmission specialists said they would not drive the car in that condition. Right now it's sitting in the driveway, totally useless.
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This corolla is about 10-15 years old, i don't know how old. Again, its a manual transmission. It started today, when the car idles, the engine revs up a bit like a hum. I wasn't pressing the gas petal or anything and it just revs by it self. My dad says it was probably the engine was too cold and it is just warming itself. Then my dad said the car mechanic said its the gas sensor? He also said the sensor cost about 200 and with labor job, 280$. good deal?
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I have a 2009 RAV4 and it has only 40,000 miles. Three weeks ago, I took it to a local Toyota dealership for oil change and tire rotation. The service manager told me that it needs the drive belt to be replaced and the oil in the four-wheel drive system needs to be replaced. I accepted his recommendation and have the job done. After paid almost $700, I took the car back. The next week, the engine lost power and did not respond to the gas pedal for a few seconds while I was driving on the highway. This problem occurred on and off while I was driving.
In addition, the brake light was on after I had the car fully parked and the car key was out. I took it back to the dealership. After diagnosed, the service manager told me that the "brake switch" has gone bad and it caused the engine lost power because it has a "break safe system". After paid about $130 to replace the "brake switch", the problem of engine lost power and won't respond to the gas pedal was gone. The next week, however, the engine light was on and the warning light of four-wheel drive was on. I took the car back to the dealership again. After diagnosed, this time they said the O2 sensor has gone bad and it caused the engine light on and the four wheel warning sign on. I took the car back again. So I paid another $450 to have the O2 sensor replaced. Now the car seems to be running normal.
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My 2006 RAV4 Sport 4WD, 80K miles, is making a light rumbling or light vibration noise as I drive down the road. It's intermittent, and will generally stop making the noise when I let off the gas (auto trans). It happens at different speeds and will always quit if I let off the accelerator, but doesn't always quit if I step on it. It's just faint enough I can tell it's there, and doesn't sound or feel very severe. I probably would never notice it if my stereo was on. I thought it might be my Bridgestone tires, which have less than 10K miles on them, but I would think the noise would continue even if I let off on gas.
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This car was running fine until my daughter brought it to a reputable tire shop to have new tires put on and an alignment done. The day after this was done, she started having issues with the car not wanting to move when it is in drive. It would eventually take off, but very reluctantly, and once she got going down the road it would be fine. After a couple days like this, it just wouldn't go at all in drive unless someone was pushing it. It goes fine in reverse.
The transmission fluid level had been recently checked, and was fine. Now when this problem cropped up and it was checked, the fluid was gone! We don't notice anything on the ground where it has been parked.
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 2.2 4 cylinder. It has about 206k miles on it… About 2 months ago I started to feel slight hesitation when I was driving…. It was so slight I wasn’t sure if it was happening or not. Recently the hesitation has become much worse… typically it will hesitate and jerk when I try to accelerate from slow speeds… this primarily happens when the car is cold. It will also jerk and hesitate when I am cruising at a fixed speed. If I step on the gas, the jerking stops.
Here are known issues and recent work I have had done… in November I replaced my complete exhaust system myself, including the downstream oxygen sensor. The cat is now bad and it will rattle. I had a mechanic replace my water pump, timing belt and all pulleys and tensioners associated with it about 2 weeks ago. The hesitation predated this problem.
About 5 years ago I replaced my own plugs and wires… when I did this; I noticed oil on one plug. This was for the cylinder closest to the driver’s side. I never noticed any issues with the performance of my car related to the oil, and I do not burn through much… perhaps a quart every 2 months. About a week ago I replaced my plugs and noticed the oil again. I do not know if this relates to my hesitation problem or not. I also filled my tank and used a container of injector cleaner, thinking perhaps a clogged injector was causing the problem.
The problem still exists.
Now I am thinking it might be one of two problems… either a defective ignition coil or a bad throttle position sensor. Yesterday I borrowed a code reader… it told me I had “long fuel trim in bank 1”.
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The window is running very slow and almost doesn't make it to close. Is there any way I can extend the life of this window?
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After reversing the car and coming to a stop to change to drive the car seems to bog down like the engine is dying or hesitating but then will pick back up and then start moving forward.
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Okay, the code I am getting is a "Misfire on Cylinder 3" code. The car hesitates in REVERSE and DRIVE only, not in neutral.
This is what I have already done: checked all wiring (fixed a bare wire), did an ignition coil swap (#3 to #2) to see if it was actually the coil (no change), replaced all the spark plugs (no change), replaced the MAF sensor (no change).
A shop I tok it to said it was the ignition coil, and that all the spark plugs needed to be replaced. They did not know that I already replaced all the plugs and, having already done the swap with another coil (and getting no change), I find it hard to believe anything they say.
I am leaning toward an O2 sensor issue or a fuel filter issue (but these cars are supposed to have lifetime fuel filters and that is not a job I ant to do if I don't have to).
I was also told that the "green thing" in this photo might be bad. What that is and/or why it would be bad. it does move a little, but so do all the others.
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Just a little background, my Ex is a 2000 V10 4x4 with 217,000 miles. I've owned it for a little under a year. Very clean truck, and well maintained by previous owner. Now the issue. Starting about a month after I bought it, it would occasionally hesitate to engage drive from park. I checked fluid and it was full and clean. I had a buddy recommended that I check for chafed wires in the steering column which I did and found nothing. It seemed to get better for a while but now it's back. It's doing it more than half the time I put it in drive and sometimes takes 10-15 seconds to engage. So am I probably looking at a new trans? Or, is there anything that can be done to save the old trans?
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My father's 2000 F150 5.4L has developed an issue. But the issue only surfaces in it's last gear. As it shifts into overdrive it begins to miss and hesitate and bog. If you disable overdrive you never feel it.
I'm thinking an exhaust restriction. There are no trouble codes, no check engine light. I notice that the note of his exhaust changes as the vehicle warms up, sounds like it's being smothered. And the flow out of the pipe lessens.
My only issue is whether the EGR is causing it or the converters. Haven't seen them go bright red yet, but this has been going on for a good while.
I wanted to get a few opinions before I tear into it today. I'll do a vacuum test on the EGR valve and rescan the codes but don't wanna drive it and heat up the exhaust when i gotta disassemble it.
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This problem started at the beginning of this winter. So I started to idle for 2 mins and the car was shifting without an issue.
However, now it is completely stuck and wont shift to 3rd gear even if I drive for 15 mins at 60mph.
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Experiencing hesitation/misfiring/bogging down sensation under light to moderate acceleration. Manual transmission, and sometimes feels like bucking by a novice stick-shift driver. Starts fine, idles fine when cold or hot. Will accelerate fine when cold, but only for a few minutes or less than a mile until it's warmed up enough. Have checked and tested many ignition and carburetor related items until narrowing it down to EGR system, which is only operating once warmed up, and not at idle, so that part of the system is working OK. If I disconnect vacuum hose from EGR valve, runs fine with no hesitation, but pings or knocks badly (as expected). Symptoms all point to too much EGR flow. With no computer or codes to check.
Have tested both EGR valve and EGR Vacuum Modulator, and both seem fine. EGR valve hold vacuum. Found and cleaned some carbon build-up, and pintle stem doesn't seem to stick. Vacuum modulator tested by blowing air into Q port while blocking P & R and air passes thru small bleed off hole. Filter had small dark burnt looking spot at bleed off hole - don't know if that's normal or not. Also tested modulator by simultaneously apply pressure to bottom port (to simulate exhaust pressure) while applying pressure to Q port, with P & R still blocked. Bleed off hole slowly stopped flowing air as pressure built up. About to roll the dice and replace modulator (less expensive of the two). Without trying to add more confusion, have wondered if a clogged cat convertor would cause enough increase in exhaust pressure to make modulator send too high a vacuum signal to valve. While the truck is old, it only has 50k miles, and no real modifications.
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I have recently run into a problem with my transmission on my van, mainly that it won't drive forward, however reverse seems to work just fine. Prior to the problem: Before it stopped working altogether, there were a few symptoms that I should tell you before we get started. First, upon starting the vehicle and putting it into drive the vehicle acted like it was in neutral, or barely crawled forwarded. If you waited a few moments, or pressed the accelerator, it would quickly engage and once it had been driven for 5 minutes no more problems shifting gears would occur.
I attributed these problems to low fluid and/or cold fluid (as the problem would noticeably become better/worse with warmer/colder conditions respectively) So I was content with topping off the fluid and seeing if the problem persisted consistently when it got warmer. 2.) There would be at times a loud clunk when the gear finally engaged after pushing the accelerator.
I have a repair manual for the van which has a trouble shooting guide and it said to check the universal joint. I did, and it seemed intact, rust free, and fine. I researched it a little more and did not see any indications that this was an awful horrible problem, so again, I decided to wait until the weather changed to investigate further. Problem: One day I drove the van to north Austin and left it in a parking lot for a few hours while I went inside. When I came back out and started the vehicle it would not engage 'drive' no matter what I did. It has since been sitting in the parking lot for about 2 weeks and the owner finally gave me the boot so I pushed it out onto the street.
What I have tried: I found a leak where the transmission fluid connects to the radiator (a hose was clamped too hard) and seemed to have fixed that problem. So that solves the problem of why there was low fluid in the first place. I took the doghouse apart and replaced a few vacuum lines that were extremely worn and damaged. At one point this was causing the van to stall immediately after starting, but have since been fixed. I checked the shift linkage where it connects to the transmission housing and, luckily, was able to view the dial on the transmission case where it connected; all moves of the shifter do in fact engage the dial and turn it. I pulled the two electrical connections off of the transmission housing to inspect them for burns or corrosion, although I would doubt reverse would work if they were damaged, and found none. They seemed to be in fine shape. The throttle cable seems to be fine. The speedometer cable is missing I believe because I can't find it and the speedometer doesn't work. However, unless I'm missing something this wouldn't cause the problem. Fluid seemed dirty, but I did not feel that is had be roasted over a fire pit (indicating burned out parts?)
Possibilities: I am going to drop the pan today I hope and investigate a little further inside the transmission. The transmission fluid does NOT seem to be getting any hotter than luke-warm. From what my manual tells me this should not be. Transmission fluid should get to a point where it is too hot to comfortably touch. I am wondering if this could be caused by one of three things a.) Broken pump not circulating the fluid b.) Clogged filter - fluid unable to circulate c.) No vacuum - not allowing the pump to get adequate air pressure to operate. I am wondering if, maybe, the fluid is not being warmed enough to expand correctly to let the transmission operate.
I have heard that these go bad, but are cheap and easy to replace. I have put this option off because I'd assume the regulator controls more than one thing and so if it were broken something like say, the fuel system would be affected as well. Maybe I'm wrong? Could it also be the hose itself? I think there is also a short somewhere in the electrical system, although I think it's located in the heater wiring, because the battery will drain heavily when it rains and the heater is engaged. I have read somewhere that this may cause the transmission not to operate properly, but it seemed to me like it is something else. In any case, I have been stuck in Austin now for quite some time, don't have money to pay a shop 2,000 to diagnose, over charge me for parts, and charge 10 hours of labor for a rebuild when you can buy these transmissions, it seems, for relatively cheap. I am hoping this is a relatively simple problem that someone here would be able to recognize and diagnose, or at the very least be able to say: "Check and fix these 4 things and come back." I'm trying very hard to learn this car inside and out and the repair manual I bought doesn't want me playing with the transmission at all - simply says "take it to a pro chump"
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The drive selector on my 2000 Ford Explorer Automatic 4.0L will not allow selection of low gear. The selections are shifted to the right so the last one, low gear will not select. When in park, P, it shows R. When in drive, D, it shows as 2 and when in 2 it shows as 1. Then it will not allow to shift in to 1.The settings are off by 1 knotch. what's up with that? It runs fine but cant get to low.
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Have a 2003 Saturn Vue with a variable transmission (rebuilt). It will only go in reverse even when in drive, or natural.
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I'm having a problem with my 2009 Subaru Forester.
When I start the car from "cold" (i.e., it hasn't run in several hours, regardless of the actual temperature), the automatic transmission cannot engage drive for several minutes. I can shift the car, and reverse functions normally. When shifting, I can feel the car engage reverse, and feel it shift into neutral, but when I shift from neutral to drive, I can't feel it engage. I can rev the engine, and it will just act as if it is still in neutral. I also cannot use sport mode to manually get the car into gear. After a few minutes (3-4), the car will engage drive. However, at least initially, it still seems to be pretty rough, with a few times where it will rev as if it's half in neutral, and then jump a little. Once it does get going, it settles down and is fine.
I took it to the dealer, but wasn't able to leave it over-night, so they couldn't get the problem to re-engage. They inspected the car, thought that the shift cable was a little stiff, so they took it off, lubed it, and put it back (they recommended replacement, but didn't have the part in stock). The next morning, the problem repeated itself, so it certainly appears that the cable is not the issue. The dealer checked the transmission fluid and said that was all fine.
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When I started my car and put it in reverse, it didn't move. It felt like my front, right wheel was in a divet or was being blocked somehow (intuitively it seemed like if I accelerated enough, it would eventually move, but since there was nothing physically stopping it - that I could see - I didn't want to break something by doing that). I tried putting it in drive and neutral and the same issue was still there. I put the car up on a jack and checked one wheel at a time - I could move each wheel completely around in both directions.
I could move the steering wheel all the way to the right and to the left. I tried turning off the 4-wheel drive and that didn't do anything. At this point I'm concerned it could be the transmission or the drive shaft, but I'm not sure what to look for in order to know if I need to get it towed to a shop (hoping I can avoid this) or if there's a simple test I can do, or a way to "reset" something if it may be locked. I haven't had anything happen to the car that would have been of concern.
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Noticed slow to move forward at a stop sign, pulled in to get gas, after fillup would not drive forward in any gear, drives fine in reverse. The station attendant checked the fluid, said it was a little low bot looked ok and did not smell burnt. He added some more but no luck. Was able to get home, short drive in first. Should i try to drive to transmission shop if any better or tow? No problems in past 178K, kept up with all regular service and fluid changes. Does this sound like a doomed transmission? Anything i can do short term to get thru holidays?
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This is on a 2013 Toyota Camry XLE that has the V6. It has approximately 1,200 miles on it. This has happened six times since new. Sometimes, when at a complete stop, turning into traffic, using approximately less than quarter throttle (just enough to enter traffic) the vehicle has hesitated and bogged down almost to a stall. The operator isn't a "two foot" driver and the throttle is held steady. We've had it looked at twice, road tested both times without replication, ran diagnostics the second time and cleared the ECM and TCM so all learning values were reset. There are no TSBs or recalls that we know of. Its quite a safety concern being stuck when pulling into traffic.
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The truck will go into reverse, but will not go into drive or any of the other gears. When shifted into one of those gears, it just idles as though in neutral. This started as I was driving down the highway at approximate 70mph. The speedometer jumped up then fell to zero as the car slowed to a stop. There was no noise except the sound of rapid fuel intake and then it went to idling. I have been told it may be a speed sensor, but I was wondering if there was anyway to confirm that before I have the truck towed down to a mechanic and find out its more than I want to pay to fix it.
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