Toyota - Rav4 :: Possible To Tow A Small Camper With This Vehicle Safely?
Feb 9, 2016
I would like to tow a camper with my 2015 Rav4 4 cylinder. The tow capcity is 1500 lbs. Is it even possible to tow a small camper with this vehicle safely? If so, what type and style of camper?
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1997 Rav4 with 185k miles burns some oil. I replaced the PCV valve thinking that may be the issue. That seemed to stop the visible smoke at a cold startup but alas, the problem still persists. We bought the car for a song at 180k so I don't feel I'm out much. The previous owner took incredible care of the car so it is solid in most areas.
I did learn the previous owner followed a dealer recommend oil change interval and changed the filter with every other oil change so this may explain some things.
My real question, if the engine does need a refresh, what is the best option? I've not at all afraid of tackling a major overhaul myself and, in the past, have had pretty good luck with aftermarket rebuilt short blocks. But that was years ago. The dealer cost for a crate motor is outrageous and not justified for a '97 anyway. So at this point, I'm just looking for some advice from others who may have been down this road. Again, the rest of the car is solid and we don't have much money in it at this point so would like to keep it as our 'second' car for awhile.
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Friday I went to pick my daughter up from the school. Turned 2010 Rav4 off while waiting on her and then attempted to turn back on. I have a smart key, so it is just a matter of pushing the button, but nothing. Band teacher attempted jump starting it with no results. Next day my husband purchased a new battery from AutoZone and we installed it. Have lights, etc. now but it still won't start. tried putting the key up to the on off switch to get it to start, still nothing. It doesn't even sound like the car is even attempting to turn over.
There are multiple lights on in the dash, the check engine light, oil pressure light, electric power steering light, and the automatic transmission fluid temp light. I just had my car into the dealer to have the oil changed, tires, rotated, and the 25 pt. inspection done on it. Upon raising my hood the other night, I noticed that the reservoir for the radiator was empty. It should have been full, as I just had it into the dealership, so where did it go. Should I add coolant to it. Is there something that needs to be done after changing the battery?
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I have a 2007 RAV4 Sport and it is making a noise..... kinda like a rubbing noise, almost a squeaking noise. It happens when I first start up my car and more when the weather is colder. After a few minutes of driving it stops. It also seems to be louder when I am idling, and quiets down once I begin driving again. It seems to be coming from the right front part (the right side if you are sitting IN the car, the left side if you are standing in front of the car and looking at it) of the engine. I can see a belt down in that area...... is that probably it? I have not ever had any other issues with my car and I have had it since it was new.
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I started up the truck. It cranked perfectly as always. Was half way out of the parking lot going give mph and a warning beeping started with a message "stop vehicle safely". I did and the engine died. When I try to crank it it will not turn over at all. No power to engine at all.
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I have a 2012 Tig SEL with 18" wheels with factory 235-50-18 tires and stock suspension. The car rides pretty smooth for the most part, but I also find that it's sensitive to lots of small bumps and the suspension is not as smooth as friends other small SUV's. What do you all think about how the Tig rides overall?
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I have a 2008 Toyota Rav4 all wheel drive that has 80,000 miles on it. It's been having a lot of problems lately, namely the water pump. I got it replaced at our local mechanic's about 3 weeks ago and all was fine until I tried to turn on the heat last night. Only cold air blew out and then came on intermittently and then just stopped again. The fan works fine, it's just not blowing hot air. Not sure if this is related to the water pump being replaced? Do I need to flush the heater core? There is no leakage. I am really getting annoyed with all the issues the car has been having lately and don't want to spend a lot more money to fix it at this point. How much would it be to replace the heater core?
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My 2004 toyota rav4, manual transmission, 70,000 miles has been problem free. Now when i turn the key , nothing, no sound , dead. sometimes the 2nd or 3rd try 'it'll start right up, and run like nothing's wrong. other times will not start at all. 2 hrs later , try it and starts right up,. the battery has been replaced and it changed nothing. The mechanics are stumped and say they can't do anything till the problem repeats itself, and it starts fine, at their garage. I've been stranded and don't want that to happen again. What's wrong? The clutch switch?
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Noticed radio LCD getting distorted. Today my LCD just went wacko, does not show the station number but some square marks and slightly visible compact disks numbers.
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I bought Toyota rav4 2007, 3 months ago ,and last week the engine lights and vsc,4wd came on ,then after 1oo of miles driven ,didn't do anything went off and it was on yesterday, I had to go three different places stopped and started , I filled up the tank the lights were still on ,and today, I started the car went off again ,I stopped couple of times, still good,(the car runs perfectly, i don't notice any malfunctioning ).
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I just bought a rav4 and I have 3 small places where the paint is chipped down to the primer. I have never had this problem with any of my other cars. Shouldn't this paint last more than a few weeks?
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How do I reduce road noise in my Toyota Rav4? Would it work to undercoat it like they do up north? I thought about thicker carpet. it drives you crazy on a long trip.
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Lately my car has a super slow take off in the morning. Granted I let it marginally warm up. But it takes such a long time as I am trying to merge into highway traffic. The RPM thingee slowly climbs up to 4 before it shifts. The gas pedal is to the floor. Hope this isn't a pricey transmission issue.
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I have a 2013 Rav4. I can adjust my left mirror but the right side is inoperable.
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My 2000 Toyota RAV 4 has had an oil leak problem for some time. So far, we have just been checking the oil frequently and adding oil as needed. The problem seems to be getting worse. I have taken it to more than one person and have received more than one recommendation. The car does have 244,000 miles on it so I realize that it would use more oil than a newer car. The last time the oil was checked it was after the car had been driven 136 miles. We added a little over a half quart of oil. Is that extreme? Should I be thinking of getting rid of the car?
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it's mystifying to me when I read reports here that "the drain plug fell out," as just happened to an unfortunate Rav4 owner.
I can understand a drain plug, say, leaking due to crossed or stripped threads. But falling out? That means someone did screw the plug in far enough that it could hold oil for a while but didn't tighten it beyond finger tight. How does that happen? Whenever I install a drain plug I have a wrench in my other hand and tighten it snugly. it doesn't take much torque to keep the darn plug from falling out since there's roughly zero force on the thing.
So how does this happen? Are oil change monkeys so badly trained, distracted, or whatever, that they put a drain plug in by hand and forget to put a wrench on it? Is it that simple?
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My 97 Rav4 shut down on the highway yesterday. Checked the oil when I lifted the hood. It has only been 4500 since the last oil change, but the oil was barely registering on the stick. The engine will turn over, but will not start. Do Toyotas have an auto shut off mechanism when the oil gets too low or is my Rav4 toast? There were no warnings, temperature, low oil light, nothing.
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Recently I had an incident were my car was hit while parked in front of our house. I heard my alarm go off when I got outside my Rav4 had a nice size dent in the driver's side front bumper. Prior calling my insurance company I went out to my car to start it and could not fit my key in the ignition. I then called my insurance company and had it towed to the auto shop. Along with my exterior body damage I had a cracked ignition lock cylinder. After everything was done it was determined by the mechanic that he did not believe the cracked ignition lock cylinder could have happen from the car being hit. I am wondering could this have been because of the accident and if not how else this might have happen? I was parked on our hill beside our house and have no details about the vehicle that hit mine as I did not see it. I just don't know how else to explain the cracked cylinder since it was not a problem prior to the accident.
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My 2010 RAV4 is not on the recall VIN number list but it has been surging occasionally since I got it in May. Dlr says No report of that. 2 days ago as I was braking from 20 mph to stop, the engine suddenly reved up fast and roared, I had to stand on the brake, fought it hard, acceleration ceased and I avoided rearending car ahead. Dlr & Toyota in a quandary, can't find problem, they still have vehicle, I have loaner. I'm afraid to drive it.
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I have a 2010 Toyota RAV4. It is a great car overall but I have a persistent problem with a vibration from the rear of the car. It felt like I was running over tiny speed bumps at 35 to 50 mph. Toyota service looked at the car three times and told me there was no vibration and I should seek psychological counseling. My therapist told me that I did, in fact, suffer from numerous psychoses but that didn't mean there wasn't a vibration in my car.
So I took it in a fourth time and a mechanic determined that there was a vibration that occurred at 40 to 45 miles per hour on a slight incline during moderate acceleration. He believed that it was caused by the Sprag Clutch. He said it wasn't anything to be concerned about and I should ignore it.
The really bad news is that while the vibration has been there for 15,000 miles, I didn't take it in until 60,200 miles and even if they did recommend repairing it, I would have to pay for the transmission work as it is now out of warranty. My concern is that the problem will get worse and the transmission will eventually fall apart.
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I have a 2008 Toyota RAV 4 that I have serviced regularly, and it's not due for an oil change for another 1,000 miles. Recently, the oil light started flashing briefly only when I stepped on the brake pedal. I finally checked the dipstick, and it needed 2 quarts of oil. There is no evidence of oil leaks on the ground under the car. It is also not smoking. If it was burning oil, wouldn't there be smoke from the exhaust pipe? If there are no visible oil leaks and it doesn't appear to be burning oil, how else could the oil have disappeared?
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