Toyota - Rav4 :: 2010 Vehicle Won't Start After Changing Battery
Sep 7, 2014
Friday I went to pick my daughter up from the school. Turned 2010 Rav4 off while waiting on her and then attempted to turn back on. I have a smart key, so it is just a matter of pushing the button, but nothing. Band teacher attempted jump starting it with no results. Next day my husband purchased a new battery from AutoZone and we installed it. Have lights, etc. now but it still won't start. tried putting the key up to the on off switch to get it to start, still nothing. It doesn't even sound like the car is even attempting to turn over.
There are multiple lights on in the dash, the check engine light, oil pressure light, electric power steering light, and the automatic transmission fluid temp light. I just had my car into the dealer to have the oil changed, tires, rotated, and the 25 pt. inspection done on it. Upon raising my hood the other night, I noticed that the reservoir for the radiator was empty. It should have been full, as I just had it into the dealership, so where did it go. Should I add coolant to it. Is there something that needs to be done after changing the battery?
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I would like to tow a camper with my 2015 Rav4 4 cylinder. The tow capcity is 1500 lbs. Is it even possible to tow a small camper with this vehicle safely? If so, what type and style of camper?
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1997 Rav4 with 185k miles burns some oil. I replaced the PCV valve thinking that may be the issue. That seemed to stop the visible smoke at a cold startup but alas, the problem still persists. We bought the car for a song at 180k so I don't feel I'm out much. The previous owner took incredible care of the car so it is solid in most areas.
I did learn the previous owner followed a dealer recommend oil change interval and changed the filter with every other oil change so this may explain some things.
My real question, if the engine does need a refresh, what is the best option? I've not at all afraid of tackling a major overhaul myself and, in the past, have had pretty good luck with aftermarket rebuilt short blocks. But that was years ago. The dealer cost for a crate motor is outrageous and not justified for a '97 anyway. So at this point, I'm just looking for some advice from others who may have been down this road. Again, the rest of the car is solid and we don't have much money in it at this point so would like to keep it as our 'second' car for awhile.
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I have a 2007 RAV4 Sport and it is making a noise..... kinda like a rubbing noise, almost a squeaking noise. It happens when I first start up my car and more when the weather is colder. After a few minutes of driving it stops. It also seems to be louder when I am idling, and quiets down once I begin driving again. It seems to be coming from the right front part (the right side if you are sitting IN the car, the left side if you are standing in front of the car and looking at it) of the engine. I can see a belt down in that area...... is that probably it? I have not ever had any other issues with my car and I have had it since it was new.
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I have a dead battery while trying to jump; my car I blew my alternator fuse. I had a friend try to change the fuse but he was unable to get all of the fuse.How can I get all the fuse out to put a new fuse in?
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My 2010 RAV4 is not on the recall VIN number list but it has been surging occasionally since I got it in May. Dlr says No report of that. 2 days ago as I was braking from 20 mph to stop, the engine suddenly reved up fast and roared, I had to stand on the brake, fought it hard, acceleration ceased and I avoided rearending car ahead. Dlr & Toyota in a quandary, can't find problem, they still have vehicle, I have loaner. I'm afraid to drive it.
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I have a 2010 Toyota RAV4. It is a great car overall but I have a persistent problem with a vibration from the rear of the car. It felt like I was running over tiny speed bumps at 35 to 50 mph. Toyota service looked at the car three times and told me there was no vibration and I should seek psychological counseling. My therapist told me that I did, in fact, suffer from numerous psychoses but that didn't mean there wasn't a vibration in my car.
So I took it in a fourth time and a mechanic determined that there was a vibration that occurred at 40 to 45 miles per hour on a slight incline during moderate acceleration. He believed that it was caused by the Sprag Clutch. He said it wasn't anything to be concerned about and I should ignore it.
The really bad news is that while the vibration has been there for 15,000 miles, I didn't take it in until 60,200 miles and even if they did recommend repairing it, I would have to pay for the transmission work as it is now out of warranty. My concern is that the problem will get worse and the transmission will eventually fall apart.
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Just bought a 2010 Toyota Rav4 about 2 weeks ago. It rained the other day and the brakes made a grinding noise the first time I braked after starting the car but didn't make it after that. Did it again the same day, still raining, but only the first time I braked after starting the car. I have a 30 day guarantee on the vehicle and need to know quickly if the brakes are bad or not.
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I purchased a 2010 Toyota Rav4 January 2010. In august, I noticed that the driver seat was badly frayed where you sit. Dealer replaced it. It is now November 2011 and the problem is back. The Rav4 has 29,000 miles. I am not particularly heavy nor do I carry razor blades in my back pocket. In fact, I can't even drive long distances with my wallet in my back pocket. I took the car in and this time the dealer said Toyota would not warranty the seat.
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I have a 2010 Toyota RAV4. In February 2014 at 34,600 miles when the car was 46 months old I had the EVAP (charcoal) canister and filter replaced for $1,300. Error codes were P043, P0401 and P0402. Recently I had the following check engine error codes appear (P043E & F, P2401, P2402 & P2419) and was told by my mechanic that the car basically had the same problem. I am now at about 50,000 miles. I don't believe this type of problem is very common; also I think that the EVAP should continue functioning for a lot longer than ~4 years and now ~1.5 years. How likely is it that I got a "bad" original EVAP charcoal canister & filter and then the replacement was also "bad"? Might there be something else that is defective that is causing the EVAP canister to go bad? I don't generally top off the gas tank when filling up.
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Driver's side won't lock automatically when I start the car. Also have to push inside button twice to lock it. Remote won't lock or unlock that door.
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98 Rav4 (130,000 miles) starts fine, idles fine, runs fine for 30 seconds then the accelerator no longer has any effect. I can put the pedal to the floor, but there is no gas getting to the engine, it will idles but doesn't go. Until it warms up to operating temperature and then it is just fine.
This gets worse the more times I stop for an hour then try to go again - it is better when it is starting from being completely cold.
The check engine light does not come on, two different mechanics have tested it - no codes are produced - the computer thinks everything is just fine. One of the mechanics called his buddies at a Toyota garage in California but none of the 12 mechanics there could figure it out.
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I have a 2009 XLE Camry which has been running smoothly for years. I failed to replace my old battery on-time and my drained battery surprised me on Christmas morning. I tried to jump-start it, long story short but something went wrong during jump-start and I lost all the lights on my dash (I can't say I didn't cross the cables but I'm pretty sure I was fully awake that morning).
I bought a new battery and replaced the old one, lights on dash are back on, the engine starts but there is no acceleration at all, the car just moves forward on D and backwards on R but no acceleration on gas pedal. I did some research and figured I might have blown a fuse, I opened my fuse box under my hood and found out my 10 Amp ETCS fuse is blown. I changed the fuse and now acceleration is back, I can drive the car but I get this 'VSC System Check' error on my dash, the 'Check Engine' light is also on and the AC fan is not working.
Could it be another blown fuse? Is this something I can fix by myself?
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I recently had TSB 0146-10 ( grinding noise at cold start ) performed and my cold starts are even louder now. My dealer screwed it up 2 times and I have to return again due to this noise, leaking valve covers, and lots of metal filings found in oil and filter? It seems to me Toyota has a big issue with the VVT cam gear on this engine and wanted to post a video of my cold start?
My vehicle is a 2010 RAV4 with the 2AR-FE ( 2.5 ltr ).
This is after 2 cam gear replacements and the dealer confirmed this to be the sound of a bad VVT gear.
YouTube
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I've noticed that if I press the EV button when stopped at a stop sign or red light, I can get the vehicle moving up to 25 MPH with the battery. This must save fuel. But I wonder if I am doing something that causes problems with the battery, motor, or other systems.
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This evening, long after sundown, I found myself stuck on an unmoving expressway with no sign of traffic starting up again (the radio reported a vehicle fire ahead, all lanes blocked). Time dragged on, and I started worrying about the possibility of the headlights draining the 12V battery , assuming that they do indeed run off the 12V battery. In a conventional car this wouldn't have been a problem because the idling engine would have maintained enough battery charge, but of course here the ICE wasn't running. So I turned off the power button to shut down the lights (it's a Canadian car, so there's no way of turning off the headlights with the power button on). That was safe in this particular situation because there were plenty of stopped vehicles behind me. It definitely would not have been safe if mine had been the last vehicle in the lineup.
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I have a 1993 Chrysler Concorde. I bought a brand new Mopar battery about 4 months ago. I don't use the car very much, but I do start and run it at for at least 15 minutes at least once a week. Today it wouldn't start. I last ran it about a week ago. Is it likely to be a problem with the alternator?
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If my prius 12V starting battery is dead, and my keyless entry prius is locked, would I be able to jump start my vehicle when I cannot enter it to open the doors, hood or trunk ? The problem is I do not know if the keyless entry is powered off the hybrid battery or the 12V starting battery. If the keyless entry is powered from the hybrid battery, then this is not an issue.
However if the keyless entry is working off the starting battery and that battery is dead and the vehicle is locked, I do not know of how to open the door or the trunk or the hood to jump the vehicle as I cannot access any place in the vehicle suitable to give it a jump start.
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I have an 88 244 dl. I recently changed the battery charge bulb in the instrument cluster and no I have a no start. The starter engages and the motor turns over but makes no attempt to start. I checked all the fuses including the 25 amp fuse under the hood.
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A few months ago I purchased a 2.7l toyota 4runner 1999 with about 144k from original owner. A few weeks later, the vehicle won't start. when I turned the key in the ignition, nothing happens. my mechanic from toyota dealership have checked or changed everything; the relay, battery, starter, switch module and neutral switch sensor. What it might be and how I can get it fixed?
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After changing my battery my car seems to do fine as long as you are going down the road but as soon as you stop at a light it like shakes like a rough idle but the RPM's don't move and it never dies. If you have a lot of pull (heater, lights, radio etc) on it, it seems to get worse. It was in the shop for 65 days with engineers looking at it an all they say is its normal. I say this isn't normal because it wasn't doing this until I changed the battery.
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