Toyota - Rav4 :: 2009 - Clear Thick Oil Leaking From All 4 Tire Wells?
Oct 16, 2013
I have a 2009 Toyota RAV 4, it has about 53,000 miles and I am the original owner. About 4 days ago my husband drove the car home from a trip to town, and I commented there was a clear thick oil leaking from all 4 tire wells. He pointed out it some of it had started before he left, but when he came home, it was worse. It continued to leak, but seemed to slow down.We brought it to the Toyota dealer and they have had it two days. They claim the drove the car, and let it sit overnight and they don't find anything or see any more leak. My husband cleaned the floor, and now we have four giant oil stains on the garage floor, it looks like someone spilled mineral oil or another clear oil.
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2005 rav4 tire pressure light is on. The tires are over size. All are up to pressure (29lbs) It says 29 on the door. I can reset the pressure light but it comes back on.
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I have a 2008 RAV-4 with leaky tires. The tires will slowly deflate from 35-20 psi over the period of a week or so. I have checked for nails without finding any. In the past we have taken them into a tire store and had them pulled to check for nails without ever finding anything. They usually reset the tires and tell us the seal between the wheel and tire was bad and they put some stuff on it and send us away. This will work for about a month and then it starts happening again.
We live on the end of a 1/2 mile dirt road. Is it possible that the dust that is kicked up by the car on the dirt road gets in the seal and degrades it? If so is there any "magic" solution you have run across or do I just stop at the gas station with free air every couple of days to top them off. Also why would our other car not be affected. I am assuming the RAV4 has good wheels or the tire place would be all over selling us some new ones.
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My 2000 Toyota RAV 4 has had an oil leak problem for some time. So far, we have just been checking the oil frequently and adding oil as needed. The problem seems to be getting worse. I have taken it to more than one person and have received more than one recommendation. The car does have 244,000 miles on it so I realize that it would use more oil than a newer car. The last time the oil was checked it was after the car had been driven 136 miles. We added a little over a half quart of oil. Is that extreme? Should I be thinking of getting rid of the car?
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I have a 2010 Rav4, the tire pressure, track light and the engine light came up. I put air on the tires, about 30 lbs, but the pressure light is still on.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Rav4. I love my car. I do not want to get rid of it. I have a sun roof that's been leaking rain for a long time, probably 5+ years. I haven't gotten it fixed because I have gotten so many different opinions and prices on how to fix it. The first (Toyota dealership) told me they could not simply replace the rubber seal they needed to replace the entire window as well costing $1200 at least. The next mechanic told me, "No problem we'll replace it for $200." Who do I believe? I still want to keep my car.
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I have a 2009 RAV4 and it has only 40,000 miles. Three weeks ago, I took it to a local Toyota dealership for oil change and tire rotation. The service manager told me that it needs the drive belt to be replaced and the oil in the four-wheel drive system needs to be replaced. I accepted his recommendation and have the job done. After paid almost $700, I took the car back. The next week, the engine lost power and did not respond to the gas pedal for a few seconds while I was driving on the highway. This problem occurred on and off while I was driving.
In addition, the brake light was on after I had the car fully parked and the car key was out. I took it back to the dealership. After diagnosed, the service manager told me that the "brake switch" has gone bad and it caused the engine lost power because it has a "break safe system". After paid about $130 to replace the "brake switch", the problem of engine lost power and won't respond to the gas pedal was gone. The next week, however, the engine light was on and the warning light of four-wheel drive was on. I took the car back to the dealership again. After diagnosed, this time they said the O2 sensor has gone bad and it caused the engine light on and the four wheel warning sign on. I took the car back again. So I paid another $450 to have the O2 sensor replaced. Now the car seems to be running normal.
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I just went to Steamboat this weekend which requires driving over two mountain passes in a snow storm...I only go if it is snowing. This was the first trip with my new 2013 FX4 and the front wheel wells filled up with so much ice that the wheels would rub after a bump in the road. The mountain roads do have lots of frost heaves so this would happen fairly often. The ice was all around the wheel well with a huge build up behind the wheel. It also covered the step rails. Would mud flaps do anything to preovent this build up? Or any other tricks?. Otherwise the truck did fine...
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Just noticed this the past couple of days. Something is leaking. Its a clear liquid and has a slight oily texture.
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My 09 w12 is leaking a clear oil from the back of the engine which is dripping off the Right hand side of the exhaust where it appears from the engine bay ?
it's not water , as the oil spots on my drive are not drying out ? it is also has no odour , so what is it ?? , the car has 16K miles and its bugging me.
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I have a 2013 Sonata SE without about 41K on it. I got the oil changed back in May, and a few weeks after I discovered that it was leaking. I took it back to the oil change place and they ensured me that they cleaned up the mess they may have left behind. A month or two later, I believe the engine is still leaking. I've cleaned up two significantly huge puddles of oil, yet the dipstick says the oil level is right below the dot under the full mark. I checked to see if the oil filter was dirty, meaning the leak would come from there if the wrong filter was installed. The oil filter is clean.
There is also a clear fluid leaking out of the engine now too. I thought it was water, but it has a bitter taste to it. It may be the air conditioner, but it has never once spit out water like this since purchasing the car new in October of 2013.
My engine also gets hot much quicker than it ever did before. I can move the car a few feet after starting it up and it will go one notch below halfway on the temperature gauge. It has never exceeded this temperature, but it sure gets there quicker now after this oil issue began. I can also tell when the car is feeling a little sluggish in terms of acceleration, and right now, it's certainly feeling sluggish. The 2.4L isn't as peppy as it usually is.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Rav4 all wheel drive that has 80,000 miles on it. It's been having a lot of problems lately, namely the water pump. I got it replaced at our local mechanic's about 3 weeks ago and all was fine until I tried to turn on the heat last night. Only cold air blew out and then came on intermittently and then just stopped again. The fan works fine, it's just not blowing hot air. Not sure if this is related to the water pump being replaced? Do I need to flush the heater core? There is no leakage. I am really getting annoyed with all the issues the car has been having lately and don't want to spend a lot more money to fix it at this point. How much would it be to replace the heater core?
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My 2004 toyota rav4, manual transmission, 70,000 miles has been problem free. Now when i turn the key , nothing, no sound , dead. sometimes the 2nd or 3rd try 'it'll start right up, and run like nothing's wrong. other times will not start at all. 2 hrs later , try it and starts right up,. the battery has been replaced and it changed nothing. The mechanics are stumped and say they can't do anything till the problem repeats itself, and it starts fine, at their garage. I've been stranded and don't want that to happen again. What's wrong? The clutch switch?
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I bought my 2004 toyota tundra limited addition brand new it has 310000 miles. It runs like brand new. The only things to complain about is the paint and piston slap. My paint faded and clear coat started peeling 6 years ago. I notice piston slap 6 to 7 years ago. Runs like brand new. Open the hood no leaks not dirty very clean. I've maintained this vehical from day one it serves me well hoping it will out live me. I don't see to many 04/05 on the streets.
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Noticed radio LCD getting distorted. Today my LCD just went wacko, does not show the station number but some square marks and slightly visible compact disks numbers.
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I bought Toyota rav4 2007, 3 months ago ,and last week the engine lights and vsc,4wd came on ,then after 1oo of miles driven ,didn't do anything went off and it was on yesterday, I had to go three different places stopped and started , I filled up the tank the lights were still on ,and today, I started the car went off again ,I stopped couple of times, still good,(the car runs perfectly, i don't notice any malfunctioning ).
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I just bought a rav4 and I have 3 small places where the paint is chipped down to the primer. I have never had this problem with any of my other cars. Shouldn't this paint last more than a few weeks?
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How do I reduce road noise in my Toyota Rav4? Would it work to undercoat it like they do up north? I thought about thicker carpet. it drives you crazy on a long trip.
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Lately my car has a super slow take off in the morning. Granted I let it marginally warm up. But it takes such a long time as I am trying to merge into highway traffic. The RPM thingee slowly climbs up to 4 before it shifts. The gas pedal is to the floor. Hope this isn't a pricey transmission issue.
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I have a 2013 Rav4. I can adjust my left mirror but the right side is inoperable.
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it's mystifying to me when I read reports here that "the drain plug fell out," as just happened to an unfortunate Rav4 owner.
I can understand a drain plug, say, leaking due to crossed or stripped threads. But falling out? That means someone did screw the plug in far enough that it could hold oil for a while but didn't tighten it beyond finger tight. How does that happen? Whenever I install a drain plug I have a wrench in my other hand and tighten it snugly. it doesn't take much torque to keep the darn plug from falling out since there's roughly zero force on the thing.
So how does this happen? Are oil change monkeys so badly trained, distracted, or whatever, that they put a drain plug in by hand and forget to put a wrench on it? Is it that simple?
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