Toyota - Rav4 :: 2009 - Brake Switch And O2 Sensor Gone Bad After Replacing Drive Belt
Jul 8, 2015
I have a 2009 RAV4 and it has only 40,000 miles. Three weeks ago, I took it to a local Toyota dealership for oil change and tire rotation. The service manager told me that it needs the drive belt to be replaced and the oil in the four-wheel drive system needs to be replaced. I accepted his recommendation and have the job done. After paid almost $700, I took the car back. The next week, the engine lost power and did not respond to the gas pedal for a few seconds while I was driving on the highway. This problem occurred on and off while I was driving.
In addition, the brake light was on after I had the car fully parked and the car key was out. I took it back to the dealership. After diagnosed, the service manager told me that the "brake switch" has gone bad and it caused the engine lost power because it has a "break safe system". After paid about $130 to replace the "brake switch", the problem of engine lost power and won't respond to the gas pedal was gone. The next week, however, the engine light was on and the warning light of four-wheel drive was on. I took the car back to the dealership again. After diagnosed, this time they said the O2 sensor has gone bad and it caused the engine light on and the four wheel warning sign on. I took the car back again. So I paid another $450 to have the O2 sensor replaced. Now the car seems to be running normal.
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I had the timing belt, water pump and thermostat replaced on my '97 RAV4. The next morning while braking at a red light I heard a rapidly repeating sound that sounded like metal on metal. The car never made that sound again but now I'm hearing a noise coming from the passenger side of the engine (timing belt side). When the engine is cold I don't hear it. After driving a while its starts, then once the engine warms up it generally goes away (except for this morning which was the coldest morning since this started, temps in the 40s).
I was only hearing the noise when the car was stopped either in drive or reverse (reverse sounded louder) if I lightly let up on the brake pedal (there's no pulsing in the brake pedal). Once under way the sound goes away. This morning it was making the sound virtually every time I came to a stop (once the car warmed up) even with my foot firmly on the brake pedal. I recorded the sound Saturday while standing still with the car in drive and my foot slightly easing up on the brake pedal. The sound starts at the 20:30 mark, what it could be?
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I have a 2001 RAV4 4WD. I gave the car to my sister. When she and other family members drive it, the car revs to 4K rpm without moving, hesitate, then drives. It is dangerous to merge. I know there is a bulletin on this problem for model years 2001 to 2003, and Toyota will replace the ECU and transmission, if damaged, extending the warranty to 150K miles or 10 years (the car has 108K miles, and approaching 10 years). However, no engine light and no code shows up.
We took it to 2 transmission specialists; both will not touch the transmission because they (independent of each other) feel it's the ECU. (We have used them in the past for other cars.) We then took it to 2 Toyota dealerships; Toyota won't fix it, recommends replacing the transmission. We are stuck because we can't get answers and can't get any solutions to our problem.
We called Toyota; the Toyota case worker has been useless, says he sees nothing wrong with the car and said it's safe to drive (it's not, especially when merging). Both local transmission specialists said they would not drive the car in that condition. Right now it's sitting in the driveway, totally useless.
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My 2006 RAV4 Sport 4WD, 80K miles, is making a light rumbling or light vibration noise as I drive down the road. It's intermittent, and will generally stop making the noise when I let off the gas (auto trans). It happens at different speeds and will always quit if I let off the accelerator, but doesn't always quit if I step on it. It's just faint enough I can tell it's there, and doesn't sound or feel very severe. I probably would never notice it if my stereo was on. I thought it might be my Bridgestone tires, which have less than 10K miles on them, but I would think the noise would continue even if I let off on gas.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Rav 4 which just hit about 58,000 miles. Never really had too many problems until about a week ago. For a while, one of the brake lights wasn't working and just a few days ago, both of them went out. The regular tail-lights work as do the reverse lights, just not the brake lights.
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I have a 2005 Rav4 Sport. I've been taking it to the same mechanic for years and have never had a problem. After my last visit (65K tune-up and new brakes), the car squealed when applying brakes driving forward or in reverse. The mechanic took it back, changed brakes and there was a small improvement. They next took it to Toyota who changed brakes and rotors and there was a bigger improvement. Now the squeal only happens when reversing out of a parking space while turning the wheel. It is back at the mechanics. They said they've taken it apart and can't find anything that would cause the problem.
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I have a 2009 Toyota RAV 4, it has about 53,000 miles and I am the original owner. About 4 days ago my husband drove the car home from a trip to town, and I commented there was a clear thick oil leaking from all 4 tire wells. He pointed out it some of it had started before he left, but when he came home, it was worse. It continued to leak, but seemed to slow down.We brought it to the Toyota dealer and they have had it two days. They claim the drove the car, and let it sit overnight and they don't find anything or see any more leak. My husband cleaned the floor, and now we have four giant oil stains on the garage floor, it looks like someone spilled mineral oil or another clear oil.
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In September 2012, I had all of my brake pads and my front rotors replaced. On at least two occasions since then, I have noticed grinding. I took the car back to be looked at in October and today and in both instances the mechanics couldn't find a thing wrong with the brakes. On Saturday, I was driving more than usual and they were grinding the majority of the time. I'm not sure why this problem comes and goes and whether it increases with use over the day. I find it easier to replicate when coming to a stop in the street rather than in the driveway at a low speed. Is there something I ought to have the mechanics test out? In each of these cases, they have test driven my car, but at the same time, I don't want to tell them "Try driving it for an hour".
I drive a 2007 Toyota RAV4 (about 56000 miles on it) and while I am aware of grinding due to slight rust build-up, that issue usually clears itself up after the first few brakes of the day (I believe that this is a common problem).
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My wife's '04 Sienna is having an AC problem. The compressor comes on with the first start of the day and the AC blows nice chilly air. As you take that first drive of the day the air will switch to warm, then the compressor may kick back on or it may not, but then it stays off for the rest of the day. I'm not sure if this is because of the ambient temperature rising throughout the day or because of the engine parts heating up.
The low side pressure is 35 when the compressor is on.I tried switching the MG-CLT Relay with the Horn Relay to see if it was bad but the horn still worked and the compressor still doesn't come on.
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My drive belt broke and I replaced it with a new one and now ac wont blow cold air. It was working fine before. I can hear the compressor running but not blowing cold air.
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I have a 2002 Corolla with a 1.8Liter 1zzfe engine.
I can hear a loud "rattle" at 1950 rpm from the drive belt area whether I'm driving down the street or if I rev it up while parked in neutral. It's not a tapping sound, more like a sheet metal rattle but I can't locate an loose sheet metal.
I thought it might have been the drivebelt tensioner. The plastic bushing on the small bolt cracked to pieces and I simply replaced it with a stack of washers. That's the bolt at the top of the piston that screws into the valve cover. I replaced the tension but still hear that rattle. I tried to locate it with a stethoscope but no luck.
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2009 Sonata; about 82K miles. Drive belt was replaced in July, about 6K miles ago, by Trusted Independent Mechanic in El Paso. Now, Trusted Independent Mechanic in DC area replaced it again because one of the belt's ribs was falling apart. Attached photographs show a portion of the damage (which is only on that one ridge).
Did that belt need to be replaced?What could have caused he damage? (Mechanic says pulleys look ok; maybe defective belt.)
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I just replaced my Toyota Camry Solara 2005 Front Struts on Thursday to pass State Inspection. On Friday we had a mild snow storm(2 inches) and when taking a turn, the brake didn't work properly and the tires slipped and my car went over the curb and hit a pole. I was going at about 30 mph. My tires are a little old but since they passed the inspection on Thursday I'm guessing that they weren't that bad. My question is did replacing the struts have anything to do with this or was this just my distracted driving...
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I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
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Last Thursday Nov 22nd, I took my 2010 Corolla for a regular oil change service by an Toyota agent. The service representative recommended to have the brake fluid replace since it had already 39000 km since new. I agreed.
The same evening, I start hearing a strange high pitch noise from the front while braking light at low speed. It does not occur all the time. I did a search in this forum about the brake noise.
That strange high pitch noise could come from the ABS actuator when it activates or modulates at that light braking.
I did a visual check on the bleeding nipples of the brakes today. It seems that the two nipples for rear brake were untouched and this would mean they did not bleed the rear brakes and air could be trapped in the rear brake lines.
Will take the car back the Toyota service. As search from our forum, the cause for the abnormal modulating of the ABS actuator could be :
(a) a bad speed sensor or
(b) air trapped in the brake line.
Since it starts at the same day of replacing the brake fluid, the most likely cause is air trapped in the brake line.
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I want too hook up a switch to shut my headlights and brake lights off. I want to hook into the ground side. How big of a switch I need to use. I don't want them on when I am hunting.
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I have 2009 Toyota Avalon Limited, the switch on the master power switch that operate the passenger side won't work. Can the master switch be repaired? This is a power window switch.
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05 Camry, 2.4L, 47K. Vehicle parking brake barely holds while in Drive. How is this adjusted? On my 91 Corolla, the brake adjusts itself by pulling up on the handle. The Camry does not have this feature so does this have an adjustable cable? If so, where did they hide this adjuster?
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My '09 2.4L Vibe has started to leak coolant around the coolant temperature sensor. It seems rather odd to me.
Who makes the OEM model? It shows as GM Part 88975489.
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i have Ksport kontrol pros and no mattter how i attach the brake line or abs sensor it rubs! how to rout them. i bought 3/8 heater hose for the brake line and spliced it to make a sleeve. sway bar endlinks used to pinch the ABS against the coilover but now it rubs the cv axle. 09 rolla s
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I have a 2008 Toyota Rav4 all wheel drive that has 80,000 miles on it. It's been having a lot of problems lately, namely the water pump. I got it replaced at our local mechanic's about 3 weeks ago and all was fine until I tried to turn on the heat last night. Only cold air blew out and then came on intermittently and then just stopped again. The fan works fine, it's just not blowing hot air. Not sure if this is related to the water pump being replaced? Do I need to flush the heater core? There is no leakage. I am really getting annoyed with all the issues the car has been having lately and don't want to spend a lot more money to fix it at this point. How much would it be to replace the heater core?
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