Toyota - Rav4 :: 2007 - Engine Lights Came On?
Jul 23, 2015
I bought Toyota rav4 2007, 3 months ago ,and last week the engine lights and vsc,4wd came on ,then after 1oo of miles driven ,didn't do anything went off and it was on yesterday, I had to go three different places stopped and started , I filled up the tank the lights were still on ,and today, I started the car went off again ,I stopped couple of times, still good,(the car runs perfectly, i don't notice any malfunctioning ).
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I have a 2002 RAV 4 with 75,000 on it. The check engine light suddenly went on this morning. I have not gone to the dealer yet as it will be expensive to do so. I have an extended warranty but am not sure if they will cover the cost. As to the problem, is there a quick fix to this? Can I just do it myself?
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I have a 2010 Rav4, the tire pressure, track light and the engine light came up. I put air on the tires, about 30 lbs, but the pressure light is still on.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Rav 4 which just hit about 58,000 miles. Never really had too many problems until about a week ago. For a while, one of the brake lights wasn't working and just a few days ago, both of them went out. The regular tail-lights work as do the reverse lights, just not the brake lights.
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My Rav4 experiences a low rumbling noise at around 1,500 RPM. The noise disappears if I let off the gas, or speed up. I have brought the vehicle to 3 different repair shops, including a transmission place, and nobody has been able to give me any answers as to what the problem is. One place said that it sounds like it's in the tranny or transfer case, and that it feels/sounds like it's going into the torque converter lockup too early. The vehicle has just over 60K miles on it.
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My mechanic says the transmission fluid in my 2007 Rav4 (about 47K, normal driving) is black and needs replacing ($144). I called the local Toyota service department who said this car has a sealed transmission and replacement is not needed. The Toyota maintenance schedule does not recommend replacement until 120K miles.
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I have a 2007 RAV4 Sport and it is making a noise..... kinda like a rubbing noise, almost a squeaking noise. It happens when I first start up my car and more when the weather is colder. After a few minutes of driving it stops. It also seems to be louder when I am idling, and quiets down once I begin driving again. It seems to be coming from the right front part (the right side if you are sitting IN the car, the left side if you are standing in front of the car and looking at it) of the engine. I can see a belt down in that area...... is that probably it? I have not ever had any other issues with my car and I have had it since it was new.
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I have a 2007 RAV4. About a year ago, if I was going up a gentle incline and hitting 40 mph, my car would make a rattle noise (sounds like it's coming from underneath me), and then once I passed 40, it stopped. Over time, it stopped taking the incline to make that noise happen, now it just happens whenever I hit 40, if I'm increasing my speed slowly. If I put more gas on the pedal and increase more forcefully, the sound doesn't happen. And, the sound never happens when I'm going from faster to slower, only slower to faster. What this might be?
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In September 2012, I had all of my brake pads and my front rotors replaced. On at least two occasions since then, I have noticed grinding. I took the car back to be looked at in October and today and in both instances the mechanics couldn't find a thing wrong with the brakes. On Saturday, I was driving more than usual and they were grinding the majority of the time. I'm not sure why this problem comes and goes and whether it increases with use over the day. I find it easier to replicate when coming to a stop in the street rather than in the driveway at a low speed. Is there something I ought to have the mechanics test out? In each of these cases, they have test driven my car, but at the same time, I don't want to tell them "Try driving it for an hour".
I drive a 2007 Toyota RAV4 (about 56000 miles on it) and while I am aware of grinding due to slight rust build-up, that issue usually clears itself up after the first few brakes of the day (I believe that this is a common problem).
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My 97 Rav4 shut down on the highway yesterday. Checked the oil when I lifted the hood. It has only been 4500 since the last oil change, but the oil was barely registering on the stick. The engine will turn over, but will not start. Do Toyotas have an auto shut off mechanism when the oil gets too low or is my Rav4 toast? There were no warnings, temperature, low oil light, nothing.
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I have a 2006 Rav 4 with about 75,000 miles on it. Recently, the dealer maintenance department recommended a top engine clean. What is that and is it necessary?
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44k miles. V6 Rav4 Sport. Coolant seems very low. I can't see any crusty coolant in or around the engine. Does the water pump need to be replaced? I don't hear anything like marbles in a can. Researching online water pump could fail multiple times even under 100k. That means I don't want to have the same pump installed. My powertrain warranty expired 4 months ago so I doubt Toyota would do anything with repair costs.
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My 2000 Rav4 has 120,000 miles on it- engine timing belt and everything with done at 60,000 miles. About a year after this work, i noticed an engine noise that only shows up when the A/C is on, or the engine is under lots of stress, and only sporadically. It sounds just like a thin metal blade being stuck in a fan- and it's very loud. It disappears immediately after I let up off the gas, and does not always reappear when I reapply the gas.
It is consistent though in that it starts close to the 3000 rpm range. I've checked for interference on anything with the belts and cooling fans, but don't see anything there. Other than the noise, engine has been working great. Also checked the motor mounts, they seem okay. The only conclusion I can draw is that something is interfering with a rotating part, maybe by the flex of the engine under stress, but I can't point a finger to anything.
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I am hearing a really strange "groaning" or grunt noise right after the engine turns over. The colder is the louder it is. It only lasts about a second. It's only when the engine is cold.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Rav 4 with apporximately 140,000 miles. When I fill the gas tank the check engine light comes on, the engine runs rough (like a misfire). Diagnostic code comes back a "lean mixture,bank 1". When the tank reaches approximately 3/4 of a tank the light goes out and the engine runs smooth and fine. Then, when the tank reaches just belwo hal a tank the light once again comes on and starts running rough again. Have drained the tank, used dry gas, Startron to counter the ethonal etc. Nothing seems to work.
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I have a 2011 RAV4 with 122,000 miles. For the last few months I have heard a fluttering noise coming from the engine compartment, usually at in-town speeds when I step on the accelerator gently, for example to maintain speed on an incline.What could this be?
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My mother and I own a 2001 RAV4 and over the past few weeks/couple of months we've had 4 instances where the car wouldn't start. Everything works - lights, radio, windows, etc. but when we try to start the engine it just makes a repetitive ticking sound and won't turn over. The first 2 times it happened the car eventually started but the second two times we had to get a jump. I suspect that there is a loose connection somewhere in the battery, but when it happened again the other day my mother got a jump and drove to the dealer for a look; the repairman said that the battery was fine and couldn't offer any other explanation for it.
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Rumble whoosh noise (her description,,, I am currently in another State) coming from my wife's vehicle in the front of the engine compartment. Closer to the passenger side near the water pump. Noise has been present for the last six months, but would always go away after it was warmed up. During winter (In Tucson AZ so never gets too cold), it is worse due to the cold weather. Previously only happened at low RPMs and ended to be worse when turning a corner.Today it occurred also after operation for a quite beyond starting of the vehicle, and is starting to sound like the failure of bearings. Also a burning smell was occurring.Just replaced both the water pump and the alternator, and the front struts. The water pump is not leaking but the old pumps leaks are still evident. The current mechanic trying to troubleshoot is stumped. Motor mounts are getting close to failure, but still appear to not be a problem. CV joints are fine. What to look at?
2006 Toyota Rav4 4X4 4 Cylinder....
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I recently got the EGR system in my 1998 Rav4 working (replaced VSV) after driving with it non-functioning for several years. Without the system functioning, the engine ran great, but fuel efficiency suffered. Now, when the engine is warm only, the engine knocks and lugs between 1000 and 2000RPMs. This usually occurs right when I shift into 2nd gear. There are no engine trouble codes.
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I have a '00 RAV4 I bought from my Mother. It was having loss of engine power and it would stall while driving and then turn off while driving. The car was taken to 4 mechanics, non could figure it out changed the sensor air fuel ....worked then did it again sent to the Toyota dealer changed the same part ....the problem seemed to be fixed....I've had for a couple of weeks and the problem came back...what I notice was a low idle, loss of power....then the car started stalling while driving, the rpm idle dropped to 0 and car shut down took to mechanic said the throttle body was dirty . They cleaned it they said that it fixed the problem ....2 weeks later it happens again to 2x .....I don't know what to do ...
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The vehicle: 2007 Tundra, 5.7, 4WD, SR5, 71K miles
The issue: The Check Engine, VSC and 4LO indicators came on abruptly within 5 minutes of the first start-up of the day and after driving ~ 1/2 mile on paved road. Weather conditions: high humidity and unseasonable high ambient temperature.
What has been done: Immediately returned home. My local "guy" stopped by with his code checker. Codes that came up: C10201 and P2440 (Wheel sensor and secondary air pump, I am unsure which is which). Codes were cleared, indicators went off. Within 0.2 mile of driving "around the block" the same indicators and codes came on. My local guy recommended a trip to the dealer for repair as he would have to get sensors/parts from Toyota and be replacing sensors until the problem was repaired (I respect him for that).
The question: what is the guesstimated cost for dealer repair? The truck can be operated in a "failure" mode and can get to the local dealer under it's own (reduced) power.
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