Toyota - Rav4 :: 2000 - Oil Leaking Frequently
Oct 26, 2012
My 2000 Toyota RAV 4 has had an oil leak problem for some time. So far, we have just been checking the oil frequently and adding oil as needed. The problem seems to be getting worse. I have taken it to more than one person and have received more than one recommendation. The car does have 244,000 miles on it so I realize that it would use more oil than a newer car. The last time the oil was checked it was after the car had been driven 136 miles. We added a little over a half quart of oil. Is that extreme? Should I be thinking of getting rid of the car?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Rav4. I love my car. I do not want to get rid of it. I have a sun roof that's been leaking rain for a long time, probably 5+ years. I haven't gotten it fixed because I have gotten so many different opinions and prices on how to fix it. The first (Toyota dealership) told me they could not simply replace the rubber seal they needed to replace the entire window as well costing $1200 at least. The next mechanic told me, "No problem we'll replace it for $200." Who do I believe? I still want to keep my car.
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I have a 2009 Toyota RAV 4, it has about 53,000 miles and I am the original owner. About 4 days ago my husband drove the car home from a trip to town, and I commented there was a clear thick oil leaking from all 4 tire wells. He pointed out it some of it had started before he left, but when he came home, it was worse. It continued to leak, but seemed to slow down.We brought it to the Toyota dealer and they have had it two days. They claim the drove the car, and let it sit overnight and they don't find anything or see any more leak. My husband cleaned the floor, and now we have four giant oil stains on the garage floor, it looks like someone spilled mineral oil or another clear oil.
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My 2000 Rav4 has 120,000 miles on it- engine timing belt and everything with done at 60,000 miles. About a year after this work, i noticed an engine noise that only shows up when the A/C is on, or the engine is under lots of stress, and only sporadically. It sounds just like a thin metal blade being stuck in a fan- and it's very loud. It disappears immediately after I let up off the gas, and does not always reappear when I reapply the gas.
It is consistent though in that it starts close to the 3000 rpm range. I've checked for interference on anything with the belts and cooling fans, but don't see anything there. Other than the noise, engine has been working great. Also checked the motor mounts, they seem okay. The only conclusion I can draw is that something is interfering with a rotating part, maybe by the flex of the engine under stress, but I can't point a finger to anything.
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I recently got the EGR system in my 1998 Rav4 working (replaced VSV) after driving with it non-functioning for several years. Without the system functioning, the engine ran great, but fuel efficiency suffered. Now, when the engine is warm only, the engine knocks and lugs between 1000 and 2000RPMs. This usually occurs right when I shift into 2nd gear. There are no engine trouble codes.
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I have a '00 RAV4 I bought from my Mother. It was having loss of engine power and it would stall while driving and then turn off while driving. The car was taken to 4 mechanics, non could figure it out changed the sensor air fuel ....worked then did it again sent to the Toyota dealer changed the same part ....the problem seemed to be fixed....I've had for a couple of weeks and the problem came back...what I notice was a low idle, loss of power....then the car started stalling while driving, the rpm idle dropped to 0 and car shut down took to mechanic said the throttle body was dirty . They cleaned it they said that it fixed the problem ....2 weeks later it happens again to 2x .....I don't know what to do ...
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I have a 2000 Toyota corolla with about 170,000 miles and it is using about one quart of oil every 500 miles. The last couple places I took it to said the compression was bad in the number 4 cylinder. Another place said it was a leaking head gasket. Which is most likely, and is it worth getting it repaired given its age and mileage?
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My 2000 Toyota Camry is making lots of noise.My mechanic says, the exhaust is leaking and costs $566. Is this something I should change or can go on without any repairs.
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Own a 2000 Camry XLE 6-cyl. Both valve cover gaskets are leaking. Rear one leaks onto the manifold and causes stench. Have been quoted $350. to replace because the job is complicated. Have any of you done this on your own, and if so, would you recommend it or go to a qualified mechanic?
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I have a 97 Camry that looked like it had a small oil leak coming from the head gasket. It needed oil added every few days or so, so I changed the head gasket and now it overheats!
I changed the T-Stat, no luck. I took the radiator out and flushed it. It seemed to flow great too. I had the garden hose on full blast going in the top and it was coming out of the bottom just as fast with no back pressure out the top. So I think the radiator is good.
I'm pretty sure the fan was kicking on at the correct time but just to be sure I hard wired it so it's always on if the key is no, still over heating. Compression test shows 200, 209, 209, 211. That's pretty good right?
Just to be sure that the exhaust was not leaking through the new head gasket and heating up the coolant I did a liquid block test. Where you suck air out of the radiator cap and then it goes through a chemical which will change color if it contains exhaust gases. Not only did the liquid not change color, it was very hard to get any air out of the radiator, indicating that the system is tightly sealed correct?
The car is not loosing any coolant. I changed the coolant gauge sensor as well, still shows overheating.
Before I changed the sensor out I bought a thermometer and put it in the radiator. I was able to leave the cap off even after it started to get hot. The coolant did start to rise a little but I just bled it off from the drain plug at the bottom as it got higher, making sure to leave it full and not get any air. And the temp stayed below 200. This made me think that it was not overheating and thus the new sensor. This was not the case though. I realized that the coolant coming from the engine was very hot and then going into the radiator where it could cool down via my always running fan and then go past my thermometer.
The heater works great and even cool the engine down. This means that the heater core is not blocked and that the water pump works correct?
So after all of this I decided that there must be something blocking a coolant port. SOOO I took it all apart again only to find no blockages. I can see very well down into the block and fairly well through the cooling ports on the head and everything looks fine.
I also checked out the water pump and that looks great. Still in great shape and the bearing is not worn at all.
There was only ONE thing that was wrong on the engine (that I found) and that was the throttle body gasket. It was put on the wrong way so as not to fully block that air passage that I believe is pulled from the block into the throttle body. this could cause overheating?
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I have a 15 amp air compressor that does a terrific job keeping my air pressures to recommended levels however it frequently blows fuses in both my 2010 Highlander and my 2006 LS 430 Lexus. It appears that a direct connection to the battery is the only recourse. Are the adapters that permit direct connection of the compressor mail cigarette connector to the battery via a female cigarette lighter connector safe and a reasonable alternative to stocking up on 15 amp fuses every time I want to top off my tire pressures?
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I've been having frequent problems with my car.
Here's the information about it:
200,000 miliage
engine light is on when key is in ignition, but goes off when car starts up
Four cylinder engine
Here's the problem:
Car stalls intermittently
when it is about to stall, when i slow down, car putters a bit, and RPM gauge shakes wildly
when coming to a complete stop, car shuts off completely, and when trying to start back up, engine chokes.
Temporary solution:
I put the car in neutral and floor the gas pedal, then the car works again.
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I drive a 2000 Chevrolet Lumina. The car frequently goes out of alignment. Best case scenario, I have to get an alignment done once a month. The last time I had an alignment done on it, the mechanic said one of the machine settings was not listed & they could only align two of the settings. I guess he meant two out of camber/toe/caster. Also, I was rear ended in June 2012. The car seems to have lost capability to stay in alignment. Why is this? Do I need a new suspension? Do I need to have certain parts looked at to see why the car can not stay in alignment?
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My old 1996 Camry with 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine, frequently keeps losing power to the spark plugs. I have changed the fuel filter and the ignition coil. That did not work. I also noticed that the car was starting when I unplug and replug the primary wire plug to the ignition coil. So I have replaced the primary power plug with a six inch pigtail and a used plug purchased from a salvage yard. This is not working either. The Toyota dealer near my house want to replace the igniter and the Engine Control Module just to be sure that these are not the sources of problem. The dealer did not test these parts. So I refused to replace the parts without a proper test. I would like to test these parts. Is there a test available for the igniter and ECM that could be performed. I have access to a lot of tools. I need a schematic and/or test to test these components.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Rav4 all wheel drive that has 80,000 miles on it. It's been having a lot of problems lately, namely the water pump. I got it replaced at our local mechanic's about 3 weeks ago and all was fine until I tried to turn on the heat last night. Only cold air blew out and then came on intermittently and then just stopped again. The fan works fine, it's just not blowing hot air. Not sure if this is related to the water pump being replaced? Do I need to flush the heater core? There is no leakage. I am really getting annoyed with all the issues the car has been having lately and don't want to spend a lot more money to fix it at this point. How much would it be to replace the heater core?
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My 2004 toyota rav4, manual transmission, 70,000 miles has been problem free. Now when i turn the key , nothing, no sound , dead. sometimes the 2nd or 3rd try 'it'll start right up, and run like nothing's wrong. other times will not start at all. 2 hrs later , try it and starts right up,. the battery has been replaced and it changed nothing. The mechanics are stumped and say they can't do anything till the problem repeats itself, and it starts fine, at their garage. I've been stranded and don't want that to happen again. What's wrong? The clutch switch?
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Noticed radio LCD getting distorted. Today my LCD just went wacko, does not show the station number but some square marks and slightly visible compact disks numbers.
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I bought Toyota rav4 2007, 3 months ago ,and last week the engine lights and vsc,4wd came on ,then after 1oo of miles driven ,didn't do anything went off and it was on yesterday, I had to go three different places stopped and started , I filled up the tank the lights were still on ,and today, I started the car went off again ,I stopped couple of times, still good,(the car runs perfectly, i don't notice any malfunctioning ).
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I just bought a rav4 and I have 3 small places where the paint is chipped down to the primer. I have never had this problem with any of my other cars. Shouldn't this paint last more than a few weeks?
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How do I reduce road noise in my Toyota Rav4? Would it work to undercoat it like they do up north? I thought about thicker carpet. it drives you crazy on a long trip.
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Lately my car has a super slow take off in the morning. Granted I let it marginally warm up. But it takes such a long time as I am trying to merge into highway traffic. The RPM thingee slowly climbs up to 4 before it shifts. The gas pedal is to the floor. Hope this isn't a pricey transmission issue.
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