Toyota - Rav4 :: 2000 - Loss Of Engine Power / Stall Then Turn Off While Driving
Jun 21, 2016
I have a '00 RAV4 I bought from my Mother. It was having loss of engine power and it would stall while driving and then turn off while driving. The car was taken to 4 mechanics, non could figure it out changed the sensor air fuel ....worked then did it again sent to the Toyota dealer changed the same part ....the problem seemed to be fixed....I've had for a couple of weeks and the problem came back...what I notice was a low idle, loss of power....then the car started stalling while driving, the rpm idle dropped to 0 and car shut down took to mechanic said the throttle body was dirty . They cleaned it they said that it fixed the problem ....2 weeks later it happens again to 2x .....I don't know what to do ...
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My 2000 Rav4 has 120,000 miles on it- engine timing belt and everything with done at 60,000 miles. About a year after this work, i noticed an engine noise that only shows up when the A/C is on, or the engine is under lots of stress, and only sporadically. It sounds just like a thin metal blade being stuck in a fan- and it's very loud. It disappears immediately after I let up off the gas, and does not always reappear when I reapply the gas.
It is consistent though in that it starts close to the 3000 rpm range. I've checked for interference on anything with the belts and cooling fans, but don't see anything there. Other than the noise, engine has been working great. Also checked the motor mounts, they seem okay. The only conclusion I can draw is that something is interfering with a rotating part, maybe by the flex of the engine under stress, but I can't point a finger to anything.
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My mother and I own a 2001 RAV4 and over the past few weeks/couple of months we've had 4 instances where the car wouldn't start. Everything works - lights, radio, windows, etc. but when we try to start the engine it just makes a repetitive ticking sound and won't turn over. The first 2 times it happened the car eventually started but the second two times we had to get a jump. I suspect that there is a loose connection somewhere in the battery, but when it happened again the other day my mother got a jump and drove to the dealer for a look; the repairman said that the battery was fine and couldn't offer any other explanation for it.
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I recently got the EGR system in my 1998 Rav4 working (replaced VSV) after driving with it non-functioning for several years. Without the system functioning, the engine ran great, but fuel efficiency suffered. Now, when the engine is warm only, the engine knocks and lugs between 1000 and 2000RPMs. This usually occurs right when I shift into 2nd gear. There are no engine trouble codes.
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I have a 2008 Toyota RAV 4 that I have serviced regularly, and it's not due for an oil change for another 1,000 miles. Recently, the oil light started flashing briefly only when I stepped on the brake pedal. I finally checked the dipstick, and it needed 2 quarts of oil. There is no evidence of oil leaks on the ground under the car. It is also not smoking. If it was burning oil, wouldn't there be smoke from the exhaust pipe? If there are no visible oil leaks and it doesn't appear to be burning oil, how else could the oil have disappeared?
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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I have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
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The other day I was driving down the 710 I-CA at around 80mph but as soon as I got on the east ramp for the 105 fwy I lost total power as the engine had just cut off and my check engine, battery, and oil lights went on so I came down the ramp in neutral. As soon as I stopped I popped the hood and saw that everything was ok I tried to restart the engine but it didn't work.
At the time the starter would crank the engine so I thought that the alternator was the problem. I had it towed home and changed the alternator but now when I try to start it all I get from it is a single crack from the starter and no crank. I tried to move the engine by hand and it wouldn't budge. I opened the engine thinking if could be that the timing chain broke but it is completely intact. My car is an 04 Toyota Matrix XR with a 1ZZ-FE engine....
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My 2000 Toyota RAV 4 has had an oil leak problem for some time. So far, we have just been checking the oil frequently and adding oil as needed. The problem seems to be getting worse. I have taken it to more than one person and have received more than one recommendation. The car does have 244,000 miles on it so I realize that it would use more oil than a newer car. The last time the oil was checked it was after the car had been driven 136 miles. We added a little over a half quart of oil. Is that extreme? Should I be thinking of getting rid of the car?
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I want to start by saying I'm new and don't really fully know how to search vortex, I'm sure there's probably a bunch of things about this. I have an 04.5 gli, my temp gauge reads 190 all of the time but according to vag com I'm running at about 220 some times higher. I've heard my fan kick in once in the year I've owned it. Also I get a decent amount of power loss after driving for about 20 to 30 minutes. Idk if that's related, but just hard wire the fan with a switch? I don't have a lot of money so I'm not really trying to play a guessing game replacing stuff.
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Yesterday, I was driving on the highway at a 65-70 miles per hour (basically pushing it for my '96 RAV4). Suddenly, the car turned off. The engine cut out and the battery and oil signal came on. It did not lurch as if I had popped the clutch, nevertheless, I went to restart it as I was going down the hill and it made it home for the next 40 miles.
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I have a 96 Rav4. When I am driving on the freeway it will get stuck at 3000 RPMs for a good 20 miles. It doesn't do it all the time, but it does it a lot. The car will only be going 50 mph, but its stuck at high RPMs. The mechanic has no idea what is going on.
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I have a 2003 rav4 with about 100000 miles on it. Over the last 4 months I have noticed that, whenever I drive half hour or longer on the highway the car starts to smell like burning rubber or burning antifreeze or something like that. I live close to work, play, and groceries, so I don't drive it that long very often. I have not noticed decreased levels of any of my fluids. No change in performance either. I've had the oil changed regularly and no problems there. I am about to drive it a thousand plus miles and would love to get this figured out before I go.
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I bought Toyota rav4 2007, 3 months ago ,and last week the engine lights and vsc,4wd came on ,then after 1oo of miles driven ,didn't do anything went off and it was on yesterday, I had to go three different places stopped and started , I filled up the tank the lights were still on ,and today, I started the car went off again ,I stopped couple of times, still good,(the car runs perfectly, i don't notice any malfunctioning ).
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My 97 Rav4 shut down on the highway yesterday. Checked the oil when I lifted the hood. It has only been 4500 since the last oil change, but the oil was barely registering on the stick. The engine will turn over, but will not start. Do Toyotas have an auto shut off mechanism when the oil gets too low or is my Rav4 toast? There were no warnings, temperature, low oil light, nothing.
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I have a 2006 Rav 4 with about 75,000 miles on it. Recently, the dealer maintenance department recommended a top engine clean. What is that and is it necessary?
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I have a 2002 RAV 4 with 75,000 on it. The check engine light suddenly went on this morning. I have not gone to the dealer yet as it will be expensive to do so. I have an extended warranty but am not sure if they will cover the cost. As to the problem, is there a quick fix to this? Can I just do it myself?
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44k miles. V6 Rav4 Sport. Coolant seems very low. I can't see any crusty coolant in or around the engine. Does the water pump need to be replaced? I don't hear anything like marbles in a can. Researching online water pump could fail multiple times even under 100k. That means I don't want to have the same pump installed. My powertrain warranty expired 4 months ago so I doubt Toyota would do anything with repair costs.
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I have a 2010 Rav4, the tire pressure, track light and the engine light came up. I put air on the tires, about 30 lbs, but the pressure light is still on.
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I am hearing a really strange "groaning" or grunt noise right after the engine turns over. The colder is the louder it is. It only lasts about a second. It's only when the engine is cold.
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Well zipping along the highway tonight, sitting on 100KM/h, and all of a sudden the engine loses all power. As luck would have it a fuel station was just closing (the only one for half an hour either side) and kept the lights on so I could have a look. The starter is nice and lively, and the engine is trying to fire, but just wouldn't. I asked a mate of mine in town to come out and give me a hand troubleshooting.
As it turns out, when the ignition switch is set to the "ON" position, normally the fuel pump primes the lines. It's only doing it intermittently for some strange reason, and not making it past the fuel filter (despite the filter being new). The temporary buzzing in the engine bay when the car is switched off is gone now too.
Now my question is - does this sound like fuel pump? I'm only used to the older fuel pumps in carburetor vehicles, not these fingle fangle electric things!
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