Toyota - Prius :: Check Engine Light Has Been Coming On - Catalytic Converter Need Replacement
Sep 10, 2011
My wife's car is a 2002 Prius, 149 k miles. Lately the check engine light has been coming on. I took it to the dealership, and their assessment is that the catalytic converter needs to be replaced. They are recommending about $2,000 + of repairs. While I am contemplating the practicality of investing that much in keeping this car going I'm wondering if it harmful or dangerous to continue operating this vehicle.
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My check engine light has been coming on and off and it seems to show P0420 for catalytic converter. The light stays off for about a week and it'll come on for a day or two and off again.
Wouldn't a failed converter stay failed? Can P0420 be triggered by loose/bad gas caps?
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I had my local garage do their electronic check when my check engine light came on. They said the code they got indicated a failed catalytic converter and quoted me $720.00 for a California compliant replacement, including labor. I live in Connecticut. I'd like to take a few days to get a second opinion and second quote, but the garage manager said that driving it in this condition would risk fouling the oxygen sensor, which I recently replaced for a couple hundred bucks.
Should I be concerned about fouling the oxygen sensor by continuing to drive the car? 2000 Toyota Camry...
I looked under the car and the rear attachment bolts to the converter are rusted beyond recognition. I'm tempted to try replacing it myself but it may be a bit beyond my skills.
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I just moved to Colorado with my 2009 Prius and on the fifth day here the check engine light went on and the dealership said my catalytic converter failed. Luckily I was still under warranty. Is this related to the altitude or just a coincidence?
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After hearing some loud noise coming from my exhaust system, it was determined that there is a hole (from rust) in part of the cat. assembly. Three shops advised for replacement, there are no aftermarket products for this unit. I have NOT gotten any error codes, the only problem is the noise. What to do? The car is 10 years old with 86000 miles. I have been reading about some of you getting just the one piece and having it welded on, but I do not believe any of the shops here will do that, and indicated that it would be a very temporary fix.
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105,000 miles on my R32, starting to get check engine light for catalytic converter. Any cheaper options to VW originals that won't harm performance?
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The check engine light on our 2005 Honda CRV (146,000 miles) came on and stayed on. After a week of driving with the light on we brought the car to the dealer to have it checked. The dealer diagosed a faulty catalytic converter given a P0402 diagnostic code and didn't think the P1078 code for the intake manifold a problem. The dealer also stated that the oxygen sensors were fine. We declined the dealers offer to replace the catalytic converter for $2,170 and the check engine light was reset. After two weeks of daily drifting and 1000 plus miles the engine light is still off. Did we actually have a problem? Why hasn't the light come on again?
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I live in CA and recently my car passed the smog test, but failed inspection because the check engine light on the board was on. When the diagnostic test was done, it said there's a problem with the catalytic converter. It's so frustrating because the car's emissions are within limits. , I was thinking... Is there a way to get the catalytic converter to run cleaner without replacing it? If it can run long enough to pass the diagnostic test, my car could pass inspection.
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2004 Chrysler Sebring Sedan, 4 cylinder dual-overhead cam. My check engine light came on this morning and the code came out as the catalytic converter. The car seems to be running fine, at least no recent changes. I'm debating replacing this vehicle soon, and I'm wondering if it's worth working on the catalytic converter. I recently replaced the cam shaft position sensor as well.
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My car is in the garage, been having a bunch of issues with the check engine light. This is my current problem, Check Engine light is popping up because the catalytic converter is sending an error. However, there is nothing wrong with the converter, it keeps sending the same error. My car has been in the shop for exhaust issues and valve problems, but this has got them stumped.
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My cat converter is rattling on driver's side and check engine light is on. Rattle is the inside of the converter, not the heat shield. How much $ and what kind of converter replacement is recommended?
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Yesterday my 1995 Toyota Corolla (which runs well otherwise) started making the loudest rumbling exhaust sound I've ever heard whenever I stepped on the gas pedal. It also felt like it had trouble accelerating when I would try to get going after a stop. I took it to a mechanic right away, who says it needs a new catalytic converter and resonator pipe.
My boyfriend says this is a repair he could do. He has done some car repair and worked with a mechanic before, so I am considering trusting him on that, but I don't know what types of repairs he's done before and I know he has never worked on this model. What would you take into consideration whether or not it would be safe to attempt this repair at home?
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Toyota says the code is P0420 and the Catalytic Converter is rattling under heavy acceleration showing the Catalytic converter is bad and should be replaced. Toyota wants 2,334.00 which seems very high to me. Is it the Catalytic converter? The car is a 2004 Toyota Prius.
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My husband,who is an engineer and has done all of our car maintenance for decades is stumped by our 2000 Mazda MPV. He replaced the catalytic converter and put every thing back together, but the car won't run. Will start, but dies right away. Took off new cat,and runs with that off, but not sure why it won't run with the cat on.
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The wife's 1997 Mountaineer, 5.0 with all the bells and whistles, Every time she stops, wet, dry, snow, any type of surface, the ABS brakes activate just as she comes to a stop. Heavy pressure, light pressure, doesn't matter. She says it sounds like a cow mooo-ing. 138,000 miles. New pads and rotors were installed 40K miles ago (about 3 years ago) she doesn't drive much but the noise is aggravating. No check engine light, or ABS light. Seems to come on when it gets below 10mph consistently. The Engine light comes on occasionally with a catalytic converter fault, replaced the converters but still get the light. I don't think it is related.
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Car is a 2001 MK4 Jetta with 2.0 Auto Tranny and 120k miles, stock exhaust
A little over a year ago I was getting a cel and the code that was being thrown was a DTC 16804. I changed the cat and both o2 sensors and the light went away for almost a year. The other day I was driving and the light came on again. Scanned the car and its the same 16804 code. I replaced the front o2 sensor thinking it was bank 1 but it didn't solve the problem. I clear the code and it comes back the next day. I'm finding it hard to believe that the cat is bad after only a year. I checked for vacuum leaks, faulty MAF and nothing under the hood looks out of whack. My mission is up next month and the car won't pass with this code.
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I was told that my 1997 kia Sephia needed a new catalytic converter by a very reliable shop. My car had been stalling out and running very rough. They did replace the distributor cap which seems to have increase the overall performance and that same day i had a smog check and passed with flying colors! Why would I still need to replace my converter if I passed smog. My car has only 36k on it.
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I recently had the catalytic converter replaced on my 1999 Toyota Corolla and the gas mileage dropped from about 28 mpg to 21 mpg.
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Chk engine light is on. Checked it at Advance Auto and indicated either cat or the O2 sensor (rear). So, I went to replace the O2 sensor and learned the hard way that you can't just unscrew the nut. I torqued off the stud to which the O2 sensor attaches. Muffler shop told me you need to heat up the stud/nut first to remove it. Oh well, lesson learned. So, I'm looking at replacing the pipe with the catalytic converter attached since I can't seem to fix the broken stud (or actually get the one I didn't break off). The problem is, my car is apparently a CA model and has the special cat on it. I live in VA. What sort of problems might I run into if I replaced the cat with a non-CA version? They are significantly less expensive. This is for a 2003 Toyota Siienna
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My Toyota Tundra 2011, driven enough to haul a horse locally (6000 plus miles) is now unable to go above 30 mph, it was fine last week. Toyota dealer says it is both of the air injection units and switch. Of course it is out of warranty 3 months.
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1996 4runner here (187,500miles), with weld in after market cat (on when purchased, with less than 1000 mile on it). started throwing the 420 code beginning of last summer. Replaced both O2 sensors and same results. Was coming on after every 30-40 miles after resetting, replaced wires, plugs, cleaned throttle body started coming on ever 120 miles or so. Now in the middle of winter it has gone 450 miles and still has not come back on?? Does the winter fuel blends in Georgia, or cold more dense air make a difference on cat performance? Still plan to replace it with a direct fit with a warranty but curious if I am overlooking something.
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