Toyota - Prius :: 2007 - Brakes Grabbing Badly During First Couple Of Stops
Dec 14, 2012
I have an 2007 Toyota Prius and in the mornings, especially if it is humid or moist outside, my brakes grab badly during the first couple of stops....it's bad enough to make somebody run into the back of me. When it happens, you will also hear a screeching noise coming from the (sounds like ) rear brake, passenger side. I have taken the car to the local garage twice and they found nothing wrong. I have taken it to the local Toyota dealer 3 times and likewise, they found nothing wrong either.
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I have a 2007 Prius with 130,000 miles on it. I plan to trade in about a year, maybe a little less. I have noticed my brakes grabbing. My mechanic says that the front brakes are sort of grinding and the rear brakes are grabbing. Both are worn, the rear brakes to about 30%, front brakes to 60%. They also say they will probably last out the year. Should I put new brakes on to be safe and to be able to sell the car with new brakes, or should I just wait it out and trade it in with worn brakes?
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What causes grabing brakes in the morning OR when wet???
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Yesterday when i was driving on highway on my dash board the lights came on: the check engine light, master light, brakes lights. After driving couple of miles my car completely shut down. I took the exit and after that the car didn't start at all. Even i couldn't start the ignition to connect my OBD scaner to read the codes. Now I even can't do something to read the codes or to turn the engine on somehow, what to do.
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Two weeks ago I took my 2004 Prius (with about 165,000 miles on it) to the dealership because of problems with the rear (drum) brakes grabbing (sometimes hard enough to lockup one of the wheels). Their diagnosis was that they were badly out of adjustment. They "cleaned, adjusted and beveled rear brakes" which fixed the problem, but it returned this morning. I should also mention this dealership had "cleaned and adjusted" the rear brakes twice before over the last couple of years.
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About a year ago, the rear brakes became very suspectable to moisture and started grabbing. After a few stops the grabbing would subside, but I could still feel the rear brakes engaging a little earlier or more than the front brakes (the rear-end of the car would hunker down a little). So I replaced the rear shoes, the old ones had about 90K on them, not worn real bad and had plenty of life left. I made sure that when I installed them to clean everything, put a skim of silicone brake grease on a couple of the friction points and set the adjusters down so they would be able to auto adjust to the right setting.
The grabbing didn't stop, so I've lived with it for a while and finally got around to replacing the front brakes on the assumption that maybe since they were old that they may not be stopping the car as much as the new rear brakes were. Didn't work, in the back of my mind I'm wondering if there is possibly something wrong with the master cylinder and the balance between front and rear brakes is off. I'm going to go clean the rear brakes again today and crank the adjusters back to see if they adjust to a better position this time around. The drum and disc surfaces are in good shape and color.
Can the master cylinder get its balance messed up?
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Just rescued this 2004 from a driveway death. While checking out a no A/C condition I notice that the A/C compressor cycles on for about 10-15 seconds then stops, does this 4 times and then ends. System shows low pressure but doesn't run long enough to build up any. Need to get the OBD-2 tester on it.
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The brakes on my Equinox squeal badly when I back up but don't seem to squeal at all otherwise. It's driving me crazy...and probably my neighbors, too, whenever I back out of my driveway.
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This happened several times on my way home today.
Car: 2013 Prius v Three
Symptom: Bluetooth connects and works but then stops after a couple minutes. The Bluetooth Settings screen indicates "Bluetooth Off" at this point but will not turn back on if I press the button that should toggle it. All other options on the settings screen are dimmed out.
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99% sure it's time for brakes. Sounds like the wear indicators are squealing. I'll pop the tires off tomorrow and take a close look. Found a thread on here about doing brakes. Sounds pretty easy.
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So I have a 2012 Sonata with about 80k miles on it. I bought it used a few months ago. It has recently started having issues with the brakes.
When the car is cold and I start driving, every time I push down on the brakes they will do a quick grab after a few seconds. Sometimes its a slight grab and other times its a jerking grab. After I drive 10-20 miles or so and it warms up this goes away.
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My 07 tundra starts and then stops running it does this intermittently. I recently put in new battery.
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I have a Phaeton W12. When I brake there is a slight shudder at most speeds unless I brake fairly hard, except when traveling at 120 km/h and 85km/h, at these speeds the shudder is severe uless I brake hard, but this could be that the car slows out of these 'bad speeds' quickly. The shudder is unnerving and severe enough to expect that it will cause damage. I did have the disks/rotors skimmed on a lathe, I thought this had fixed the problem, I can't be sure it didn't. All seemded fine initially, but I don't remember the speeds I was doing when I tested the skimmed disks for the first time.
To add to the fun, I brought with me when I moved countries and VW won't work on it before its registered locally and I need the brakes to be working to do so. Chicken and egg sort of problem. Parst are also not freely available here.
There is a rubber suspension bush in front which I noticed needs to be replaced, which I will order today, but it's likely to take a few weeks to get here unless it's used on an Audi or another car sold here, but it's the opposite front wheel which appears to have uneven wear on the disk.
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My 2001 Tacoma drives well most of the time, but when in 4 wheel drive low range, low gear, in demanding circumstances like heavy snow, it will buck, jump, act like the clutch is alternately and rapidly grabbing and releasing (but I'm pretty sure it's not actually that). Tires are good. Four cylinder, standard transmission.
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My 2007 Santa Fe when making a hard left turn into a parking spot feels like the tires are grabbing and lurching. Not sure if this is a worn cv axle on the right side or an issue with the AWD never happens on a right hand turn.
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I have 1994 Ford Ranger 4.0. In Nov. I had the tranny rebuilt in Boston and also had new rotors and pads put on the front. By the time I got home, the truck was shaking badly when I hit the brakes. Since then, after it's parked a while, (I drive it once a week or so) I can't get it to move in "Drive". Reverse works fine. I thought it was the tranny but if I increase the gas flow, the rear wheels will screech, so I think the front brakes are stuck. After I'm able to "break" whatever holding them, the truck works fine. One of the rear wheel drum brakes is too tight and the wheel will feel pretty warm when I get it home and that will be taken care of but I don't really think it's the rear brakes or they wouldn't screech when I hit the gas.
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At 55k, 72k, 76K and 91k the rear brakes have hung up, become very hot and smoked badly. Dealer service claims it comes from rust binding the calipers because we live in the Northeast. I've been driving for 35 years and never had an issue with any other vehicle. They cleaned the calipers and sent me on my way. I think there is an underlying issue. There is no way I should have this issue every 20,000 miles ( or less ). What else could cause this? Brake Lines? Master Cyl? Honda service want nothing to do with it. At very least I asked them to replace the calipers which they did not agree to do.
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I have a 2001 vw Jetta with a manual transmission (just over 155,000 miles). My first set of front brakes lasted to about 135,000. After they were replaced a shimmy started to appear when braking a few thousand miles in. At about 8,000 miles the shimmy became so bad that I brought the car back to the dealer. They said the rotors were warped. The pads and rotors were replaced again and in about 5,000 miles same thing. The pads and rotors were replaced again at no charge and it is now about 5,000 miles later and the same thing is happening again.
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I've got a 2006 f250 with 160,000 miles, trans was rebuilt by previous owner about 10,000 miles ago. The tow/haul light started blinking yesterday, only blinks for first couple of minutes of driving and then stops. Service engine light popped on today as well. Won't have access to a code reader until tomorrow, but looking for some preliminary info...
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Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
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My car vibrates badly when I stop for a light. It is fine when I drive. Already replaced all of the engine mounts.
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