Toyota - Prius :: 2006 - CEL Went Out - Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor?
Nov 12, 2013
The Check engine light on my 2006 Prius came on and I used my OBD reader to determine the code was P1121 - "Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor - range/performance problem". I cleared the code to see if it would register again and a few weeks later same code showed up, but after driving it awhile the check engine light went out with out me clearing it and it remains off. The car drives normally with no other problems and when I monitor the APP sensor output I don't see anything particularly unusual. I can spend the $300 to have a new pedal installed, but I'm not sure there's problem especially if Toyota's design allows for a non-catastrophic failure mode.
My question is how does Toyota's engine control module manage a failure of the APP sensor? Is there a fail safe backup or is there potential for loss of throttle control like we heard about years ago in the news?
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Yesterday the Check Engine light came on, the code was P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Error, Performance/Range. I have not yet had the pedal replaced related to the recall (bad me), is the sensor incorporated in the new assembly or is this separate and I'll need to replace it?
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I have a problem with my sonata NF 2006 the check engine light turn on like 2 days ago and give me the p2128 code say Accelerator pedal Position Circuit - High Input something like that i cheek all the cable off the throttle body to the ecu and i don't see any cable broken how I can check the accelerator pedal sensor? I see in one page a texting the sensor whit a multi miter but was for santa fe and the cable don't have the same colors . I need the accelerator pedal cable diagram and i don't have it ....
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Recently on two occasions I pressed the accelerator clear to the floor with no response. After shifting into Park then back into Drive it drove normally for about a week. Now it has stalled out and was very stubborn to restart. Once running, the accelerator will sluggishly rev the engine while in Park, but in Drive, will not respond. TPS sensor or something else?
2004 6.0 Diesel, 75K miles, no mods, well maintained.
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I have a Toyota Corolla Altis Cruisetronic Automatic transmission. Car has done only 4000 km and is 8 months old.
Problem I am having is that when I release the accelerator pedal say while driving at 60 kph, the car does not freely coast but decelerates with a drag and tries to slow down to a stop. The drag is more serious with the a/c on. It does not like to remain in high gear. Previous auto transmission Corrolla's I have driven never gave me this kind of problem.
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My 2007 Chevy Impala has developed a brand new problem today. Driving down the block to the store, the speedometer started fluctuating wildly. I was going a consistent speed of about 10 mph in my parking lot and when I braked to a stop the speedometer started swinging all over the place, from 10 to 35 mph. It then gave me a message on the dash saying "Speed Limited to 107 MPH" and somehow killed my accelerator because the gas pedal no longer did anything. I restarted the car and the accelerator worked again for a bit and then pulled the same problem again. The speedometer is now fluctuating wildly the entire time I drive, including while stopped, but so far the message seems to have kicked on and disabled my accelerator only when slowing to a stop and accelerating out of a stop (it happened three times).
I know that the Impala's governor is set to 107 mph so I can guess why that message exists, but I wouldn't think a governor would actually kill the car even if it kicked in at the right speed.
It wasn't that long ago that we had to have our pedal position sensor resynchronized and the mechanic had mentioned that it was possible the sensor was going bad, but I don't think that would be the problem here as it seems like the car would actually have been accelerating sporadically, whereas in my case just the speedometer is swinging around despite an even speed.
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I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
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It was the throttle body thing, cleaned that completely. Replaced the pedal with one from the bone yard. No change after clearing codes, the check engine light comes back the second you touch the pedal. Have a new (reman) throttle body coming tomorrow as I may have dinged it up after cleaning it again, I took it apart to see if I could see anything obvious.
Cleaned the carbon tracks inside and bent the brushes up more to contact the tracks better. I doubt it liked that. It was throwing a code for high current, but now that has disappeared. However, I used to be able to rev it up to 2500 rpm, now nada.... So I am left wondering if this is a bad ground or something? Bad wiring to the ECM:?
I would love a schematic showing where any relevant grounds are, pin out voltages etc. It is -15 here. The closest I've come so far: [URL] ....
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The computer is returning P1379 camshaft position sensor. Where is this sensor located on a 2002 Toyota Camry 2.4L and how easy would you rate the job of replacing it?
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Just got into my 2006 Sonata V6 this morning. 120,000 miles. Drove last night, no problems. Started her up now this morning, noted check engine light and ESC lights on.
Pushed accelator pedal, no increase in RPMS at all. Put the car in gear (auto), car moves forward and backward, but pressing the pedal doesn't increase the rpms at all, so right now its not driveable. Luckily, its in the driveway so I know it could be worse. Took floor mat out, no interference issue there.
I changed the starter solenoid and that was over 45,000 miles ago. Never had that problem.
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I have a 2006 F350 Crew Cab with the 6.0. It is used primarily for towing a fairly heavy 5th wheel RV. I find that the accelerator pedal pressure is much higher than any previous vehicle I have ever owned. The problem is magnified by the fact that I have a previous ankle injury that makes it very uncomfortable to have to press on the accelerator so hard for long periods of time.
I try to use the cruise, which sometimes works on flat ground, but the shift point at my desired cruising speed is such that the slightest grade will make it downshift. With the cruise off and my foot kept at a constant pressure, the truck pulls up the slight grades just fine with no significant loss of speed and no downshifting.
Is there any way to lighten the pressure it take to push down the accelerator? I know it is actually moving a throttle position sensor, but is there also a pedal return spring here that is too stiff for me?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L ... After having some problems a week ago with the truck dieing at every stop sign or any time my foot wasn't on the gas. Eventually the truck would not start at all. I finally got a CEL that gave me P3040 (Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) So I changed out the sensor and the truck fired right up and ran for 3 days.. Now the truck does not start again and I am getting the same CEL code.
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2007 Accent GLS, US-market, Automatic, 140k miles
This is my wife's car. She called me from the side of the road while I was on a job out of town. The car had stalled while driving. She was able to re-start the car with check-engine lamp showing and took the car directly to a garage. It ran normally during that trip.
The garage diagnosed the problem as a failed crankshaft position sensor. They cleared all codes from the ECU without telling us what they were. My wife told them I would fix it when I got home. She drove the car home, parked it there and used my car until I got back.
When I got home, I replaced the crank position sensor with a new beck-arnley part. It was a poor fit, but it did go in. Now roughly every other start takes a few extra cranks. It always starts. It does not stall once started. No check-engine light since the initial episode. I just don't like the random hard starts.
Normal fuel consumption & power output. All other maintenance is up to date.
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I have been getting a P0011 error code. Changed the OCV but the code continues. I'm going to try replacing the CMPS but am not quite sure of the location on the 2007 Sonata GLS. Looking for any pics of the location or a description?
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Its a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
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Sometime the car is fighting to move forwards when I start to depress accelerator pedal and it sounds like "click click CLICK..." the sound changes from lower to louder depending on how I depress accelerator pedal... (like the car is trying to hard to move)...
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I'm still learning how to do P&G, it's my first hybrid. When I release the accelerator pedal completely, I see there's a small blue bar in the charge area. I know it in charging stage but does this slow down the car? I confuse if my car is slowed down by this or the wind resistance.
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06 sonata 3.3 L V6. Light has been on for a month or two...took it in to mechanic yesterday and it's a camshaft position sensor error...it makes total sense to me now because my cars been starting hard, seems like it gets hotter then usual...and had a "clicking" noise for about 10 mins, then gradually goes away. it takes a few extra cranks now to start the engine unless it was already fired up.
Also does a jerk once and a while around 40 km/h. I looked online and those seem to all be symptoms of a failed camshaft position sensor (CMP). Would those symptoms seem about right? Am I okay to drive slowly for the weekend before I get the new sensor installed? The mechanic didn't seem to worries about me driving for just the weekend...but it's worrying me a bit...
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My check engine light came on the other day, and I went to Autozone to have the code read. Of course, that indicated the camshaft position sensor was detecting a fault. I read through all the posts relating to the fault, headed up to my local Hyundai dealer, and picked up the oil flow control valve for about $50 plus tax. While I was there, I figured I might as well have them do an oil change, since it was way past due. No point in putting in a new part with dirty oil..right? They did the oil change, washed the car and I was ready to roll. My plan was to replace the part myself, but magically, the check engine light has not come back on since.
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I'm still trying to get my project 2001 Prius to attempt to start the ICE. I can drive the car around electric only, so MG2 is OK. I see a pulse of current going to MG1 as it does it's startup tests. So I'm thinking maybe the MG1 position sensor is faulty. Where on the transaxle the MG1 position sensor wire is located?
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I have a 2005 with 206,000 miles and the check engine light came on. The code reads "pedal position" but local mechanics are not knowledgeable to deal with electronics. The check engine light has been sporadic off and on so is this serious?
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