2008 Toyota Prius about 45K miles, just did 3Kx2 Cross Country, and now I notice a "roaring" constant sound from about 35 - 50 mph. Seems to subside at higher speeds, although this may just be that the sound is being drowned out by freeway noise (and radio!). Mileage has remained consistent, and no performance issues observed. Maintenance is current. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesThe fan motor has a loud, low drone to it. I assume it is bad bearing "whir." It seems the fan is directly behind the left side of the glove box.
View 4 RepliesMy Tacoma makes very loud roaring and whistling noises mostly when I am idle and the brake is engaged while the clutch is depressed. Sometimes, she'll rear and balk continuously --- even more loudly --- depending on the outside temperature and her level of activity. I need to get her fixed, but live in the New York City area and am a broke graduate student terrified of getting ripped off. Do you think it's just belts? My transmission (sometimes I can feel the noise in my gear shifter)?
View 10 RepliesSlow speeds. I am noticing a roaring noise. Almost like a big truck with oversize tires. It doesn't seem to change turning left or right. I rolled each wheel and didnt get any play. Rotors and pads in great shape. I did notice when one wheel is jacked up and I turn it (clockwise/CCW) it seems like there is a lot of play...maybe in the tranny or just the axle.
View 1 RepliesPrius owner. I have 200,000 miles on the car and have done nothing except change the oil, tired and battery. No other maintenance was performed.
While driving straight the front wheel seems to vibrate some and make a whirring/roaring sounds. When turning to the left the noise is greatly reduced. When turning to the right it still exists.
Any potential causes? Possibly the struts? They as well as all the front end components are original.
My 2003 Tacoma Pre-Runner V6 has started whistling at nearly a constant pitch which stops only when braking or after it has sat (not-running) for along period (hours). The whistle starts after the engine has been running for some time (10min +). I have been able to narrow down the whistle to the drivers side of the engine compartment but not any part in particular. I have checked the vacuum hose connected to the brake booster but is appears to be okay based on visual inspection. I have also briefly disconnected the vacuum hose (while pinching it shut) from the brake booster while the engine was running but the whistle persisted. When I stop the engine the whistle persists for about 20seconds before slowly fading and with my head under the hood I have heard a faint psst sound after it dies out. I have had not problems braking but do not want to start having braking issues. Any thoughts on troubleshooting this whistle?
View 3 RepliesMy 03 Tacoma TRD is showing her years! The truck has about 215k and has some serious vibrations and noises going on. First off I have a constant shaking type of vibration between 25 and 35 mph, but it is also present in the higher speeds of 55 and above but sometimes it gets drowned out. I work at a ski resort so when Im coming down the mtn using 3rd gear or so to slow down I feel the vibration is the most apparent then. So far I have had 2 shops look at my driveshaft and both concluded there is nothing wrong with the u joints. I had a CV shaft installed because one of the boots was torn so I went ahead and had that replaced.
What the vibration is.....2nd is more of a intervalled whooomping sound almost like a bullfrog-like interval. As I increase speed the intervals get faster but it is a drawn out whooomp whooomp not a fast sound. It actually rattles the change in my ash tray to the bpms of the sound. Also I have a metallic clunking sound happening when I put the truck in gear (manual) or start and stop at slow speeds without using the clutch. I was driving around a parking deck the other day in first gear and it would make the sound whenever i hit the gas AND when I let off the gas. ONE MORE THING, whenever I am starting off under load in any gear, the truck jerks.....it hesitates and lurches but only at low rpms and again in any gear.
My husband replaced the brakes on my 2005 suburban and they are squealing constantly now. He says it's normal and will go away as I drive it, I've only done about 3 miles so far but no better. So keep driving or something isn't right? For what it's worth he grew up in his dad's auto shop and has restored some cars so not a pro but definitely competent and he swears they are installed correctly.
View 16 RepliesI just had new pads and rotors puton and I have a constant squeaking noise coming from the front end where the parts were put.
View 1 RepliesI have a Toyota Tundra that shudders under acceleration. Its an A/T two wheel drive. Engine rpm remains constant, vehicle shudders.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
View 19 RepliesMY 2005 chevy silverado 2500 developed brake problems. The power steering pump, master cylinder, and Hydro static something or other has bee replaced.Now the pedal fades with constant pressure. The shop tells me this is ok but today at at a downward sloping boat ramp with the pedal at the floor, it was very scary.Before the parts were replaced this problem did not exist.
View 2 RepliesRecently blew the belt that runs the water pump, etc while on a vacation. Had to leave the car at a small mechanic in Winthrop, WA. He replaced the Water pump which had gone bad and the belt that shredded. The car ran beautifully for a week. Now there is this constant rattling sound coming from the water pump area. I attached a video with the sound. The sound will quicken as you accelerate. At cold start up it is usually not present then starts a couple of minutes in.
View 2 RepliesI inhereted a prius 2005 and need some education. It has 75000 miles and the battery level stays between the green and blue mostly. I was stuck in bad traffic and as I watched the battery level sucked down rapidly - to the point that I started turning it off and on to save on the battery - is this normal? Is there some switch/button i should press in this situation? I couldn't find anything in the manual.
Also - is there some technique in driving that would charge the battery better? I have just used my first full tank of gas and my mileage was 48 miles/gallon, so I'm pretty happy. I will be driving 30 miles each way to work, mostly at 60/70 mph - but as we know, traffic jams happen.
I have a toyota prius 2005. i bought two days ago, and i drove it and it was ok.. battery was checked and engine and they were all OK when i bought it.. next morning, i tried to get it work but there was no power at all.. remote control just didn't respond and the car didn't start. It looked completely dead. then suddenly it just started working. tonight, same problem occurred. I put the key in for around a min and then it worked. Is there something going on at night for that car?! does it go into a sleep mode or something?! and how can u make it work again?
View 4 RepliesI own a 2005 Toyota prius and when I turn on the car, all the lights on the dashboard turn on but when the e-brake won't turn on when I put the e-brake on.
View 8 RepliesMy car has 80,000 miles on it and i just recently purchased it from a dealer with no warranty. I bought it at 65,000 miles and everything seemed to be just fine up until last night. the emergency triangle popped up on my dash along with my check engine light, ((!)) and VSC. I have since then taken it to midas to get an oil change and get the codes read.
View 4 RepliesMy Prius cruise control will intermittently not activate when I try to turn it on. One day it will turn on and work fine. The next day I can not get it to turn on. I took the panel off of the back side of the lever and the contacts look ok for the on/off button.
View 8 RepliesThe dealership states that this is not a big problem and that the headlights will not be affected but the malfunction light stays on and the exclamation point is on the dashboard. The fix: replace the rear sensor harness where corrosion on the connection and pin was found - new harness assembly needed. What about just replacing the pin? Dealer states you cannot cut the wire and replace because the wires are not sealed.
View 2 RepliesThe 2005 Prius I bought has had the AC compressor replaced 3 times in about 6 months with new toyota parts, the repair shop told the man I bought the car from not to bring it back there anymore they cant find the problem and toyota will not replace the compressor again for free...I guess 2 replacements is their limit.
The AC blows warm and Im not sure how to tell if the compressor is working or not, the inside fan works on all speeds, the fan by the radiator comes on but is VERY loud....of course I don't leave it on, only for testing to try to find the problem.
Where to look or why this car is burning up compressors.
2005 Toyota Prius, 85,000 miles on the car. Recently changed spark plugs with stock NGK plugs. I replaced the 12 volt battery today because the old 12 volt battery was reading 9.6 volts with engine shut off. 13.8 volts with car powered up. Long story short.
Easy swap. I have lots of tools and I am a service technician in a Bridgestone/Firestone tire factory. I can work on most anything with no problems.
The car now idles at 1640 RPM as read on my scangaugeII. I have not plugged in my Auto Ingenuity program yet but there are no trouble codes that the scangauge can read. My airbag light is on but it was on before I changed the battery. My left Side airbag is unplugged or partially unplugged and I need to search for the plug. Any fix or some way for the car to relearn the proper idle? I also noticed that my Drivers side window Auto up and Auto down feature stopped working. I can read individual sensors with Auto Ingenuity if you need numbers.
The 12 volt battery now reads 12.6 volts with the car powered down.