Toyota - Pickup :: 1994 Suddenly Developed A Rattle Noise Only When Accelerating
Apr 28, 2011
My son has a 1994 Toyota Pick Up, and it suddenly developed a rattle noise, but only when he is accelerating. I suggested he check for loose heat shields, or a broken engine mount, fan rubbing on radiator housing, but all of this is good. He had a new timing chain put in 30,000 miles ago, and a new clutch. It has 167,000 miles on it. The oil does not have flakes or coolant. It does not make the noise when not in gear and accelerating. Could it be u-joints? He said is sounds like it is coming from the Lft Front, not the undercarriage. Fuel injected. does not overheat, or lug, or lack power.
2wd. 5sd tranny.
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The temperature gauge on the dashboard is jumping around after the car warms up. It rapidly goes from cold to normal in an unpredictable pattern. It never goes over the middle. I have had both the engine and the radiator replaced in the past year!
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Truck has many issues, among them loose steering. I took it in for a checkup, and it needs a new steering gear. How difficult are they to replace?
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We had to jump start the truck and my buddy hooked up jumper cables wrong on his truck so I'm hoping the computer isn't fried. I turn the key and the only things that work are the door dinger and the dome light. Nothing on the gauge cluster and no radio. Dead silent when I turn the key to crank.
1994 toyota pickup 22re....
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I have a 1994 Toyota Pickup DLX 3.0 V6 5spd. I love this truck to death since I inherited it from my grandfather.. however, I have a small problem. Whenever the truck sits for about 3 days without being driven; when I go to drive it the next morning, the clutch will go straight to the floor when I press it. Sometimes it'll even stick. After pumping it about 20 times (it's hydraulic) it'll be fine. It hasn't always done this. The clutch fluid level is fine.
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My 94 truck (Toyota 6 cylinder 3VZ engine) is currently idling at ~2000 when I first start the engine. After warming up or driving for a substantial amount of time, this eventually drops to ~1000-1100. I had the throttle body removed and cleaned (twice). This stopped some up-and-down revving which was happening, but not the high idling. This is a relatively recent development, and I've gone to 3 mechanics AND the dealer, all of whom say, 'it's fine'. They say it should run 'a little higher when it's cold'.
I think some of these assessments were based on the simple lack of engine error messages (no codes from the computer = no problem). I admit that I'm no expert, but I've had the truck for a decade; I know what's 'fine' and what's not. The usual idle was ~800 (in agreement with specs) and I've driven this truck in temps down to -30F. It has never idled this high before. Since it gets close to normal RPMs after warming up, I don't want to turn the idle adjustment down. I moved from a very cold, very dry climate at 6000 ft to a very wet, moderately cold climate at sea level - is there some other adjustment I need to make? Or is it normal for this engine to run so differently in these two climates? I'm at the end of my rope since no one thinks it's a problem except me.
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I have a 95 Geo Metro, automatic, 125K miles, which has suddenly developed a vibration. The car vibrates when hitting around 43-45 mph, at all other speeds it is all very smooth and quiet. I thought it must be in the drive train, but the vibration turns out to be in the motor, as it is present when hitting the required rpm range when the car is not moving. I gently raised the engine at different points slightly to take the weight off the motor mounts, in the hopes of finding one that was defective, but the vibration was still there. I also checked the exhaust system for clearance all around, and that doesn't seem to be an issue.
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4.6L 4x4 Auto and it's having an issue. My truck has recently developed a stutter when accelerating. It feels like a serious misfire and actually pulled a code for a misfire on cylinder 7 (although I haven't been able to get the code to appear again). The plugs are pretty new, I think I only have around 10k miles on them so i figured it might be the coil pack. I bought 2 new coil packs but only one was in stock so i replaced it on the drivers side bank (which controls cylinder 7) and it didn't fix my problem. When I first start the truck and drive it, it isn't very noticeable, but as I drive the truck for a few minutes, the stutter gets more violent. I will replace the other coil pack tomorrow, but I have my doubts it's the problem. It acts just like a bad coil pack.
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My good ole trusty Prius is still running good, change the oil every month (3000-5000 miles) and still drinks oil and a little over half a quart every 1000 miles.. No big deal. Well over the last 20,000 miles I started to notice this off rattle, noise when accelerating mid throttle mostly when up hill. I thought it may have been the timing chain after changing the water pump, spark plugs and using all sorts of fuel additives, but no change.
After time it's only gotten worse, my works buys my fuel (regular 87) but one day I bought my self a tank of super premium, and hey!!! It sounded great, quiet, powerful.
My question is.. Is this because of a worn timing chain making the knock sensor do this, is this because of carbon in the engine? What should I know? I really need to fix this.
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I have a 2002 F150 Lariat Supercrew, and suddenly a bad rattle developed inside the passenger side door. The window still works fine, but I'm afraid it won't much longer. I have taken the panel off, and can reach into one of the supports and mimic the rattle. When you shut the door, it sounds like the glass is going to fall out. I had to replace the motor on the driver's side door a couple of years ago, and I'm hoping to prevent another window sliding down inside the door. How to fix this situation? I haven't been able to feel anything that may have come loose.
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So my dads truck is a 87 2.2 throttle body 4cyl and it cuts out and dies while accelerating and I have no clue what is going on we are thinking bad fuel filter or starving for air....
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Hit a long 4x4 post on the freeway and bent a front rim. Was able to miss most of it but hit it with the right tires. It didn't hit anything under the car that I can tell. Got a new rim and moved the TPMS and tire to the new rim. Back wheel looks ok. Still have a low pressure light. TPMS was lit when I had the bad wheel out of the car but is now out.
Have previously had trouble with another wheel giving a warning when it was only a pound or two low. Checked all the wheels and added a few pounds to each and still have the light.
How do I troubleshoot the TPMS? How long should the batteries last - is this just normal life of the sensors? It's a 2009 model.
Also have some noise and rattles I didn't have before. Not when going straight but when turning and accelerating at the same time. Hoping its just some shields and nothing too serious... I looked and didn't see anything obviously loose so I need to dig into it a bit more.
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It happens mostly after the engine warms up. When I accelerate, I hear a weird cranking noise coming from under the hood (sometimes it doesn't happen). I popped the hood to see if there was anything wrong, but i didn't find anything major (there were 3 loose screws that I tightened because I thought they were causing the vibration but the noise persisted).
I doesn't make the sound when I rev the engine, only when I am was driving. It happens roughly between 1500 and 3000 RPM. I read some of the archives to get a few ideas, but the noises people are describing are not like the one I am hearing from my car. The closest thing I found this: [URL] ....
I made a video. You'll hear the noise the loudest when I first start pressing the gas, from a complete stop: [URL] ...
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My 07 has developed a steering gear issue.....it suddenly developed about a quarter to a half turn of slop......mechanic checked the front end and found everything to be tight and right so......I ordered a Redhead rebuilt box and will replace it upon it's arrival. My question is How often do these boxes go bad and if and when they do is it at all safe to drive the vehicle with that much play? I have to drive it about 15 miles to get to my mechanic ( far too cold for me to do it at home) and I also plow a couple of yards commercially and will need to use it there in the event of a snow storm.
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My 03 Corolla S - 5 Speed has developed a sound while driving, only when giving it gas. The sound goes away when I press in the clutch. It doesn't make any unusual sounds while parked and idling.
The sound, sounds like a knocking noise. At least to me that's what it sounds like. My car has 156k miles on it.
The car idles fine, rpm's are good on while driving, temps good and still gets really good gas mileage.
Does it have something to do with my clutch, since the noise goes away when I take my foot off the gas, or press the clutch in?
Is there something I should be checking? All my fluids are good, brake/clutch, oil, transmission fluid, radiator, etc.
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I've offered to do a basic compression check on a 22R engine, '85 Toyota pickup, which is apparently low on power, won't go above 50 mph. Yes it could be a multitude of things. Chances are it's several of them.
I have not yet heard it run. I'll consider myself lucky if I hear the uneven cadence of running on three cylinders.
My job Tuesday is to screen it for the most obvious things like a clogged air intake or air filter, choke stuck closed, worn spark plugs, etc, and do a simple compression test. I will again try to persuade the owner to take it to the skilled mechanic I've recommended, which he has resisted thus far, even though he's about to set off on a long trip through desolate terrain.
I already suspect low compression based on what the owner has implied, but also wondering about ignition timing and vacuum advance. This is a carbureted engine, so does that mean that it also has a distributor and needs to have the timing set? I have a timing light, but only vaguely remember the procedure...disconnect vacuum line from carb and plug hose leading to distributor? Any marks on the harmonic balancer to align?
Evidently it has a bogus exhaust system too - no cat - making me wonder if there's a problem there. I'm not going to get too deep into this, but if I can at least spot the problem I want to be able to convince the owner that there's a clear explanation, so he'll get it resolved.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma pickup. I bought it used in the spring of 2009. I drove it for a few months without any problems and one day this problem developed. It won't start on the first attempt. Or it will start and then immediately die. It will take two or three tries to get it running.
I took it in to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong. I got a tune-up anyway and it drove like a champ. Until the next day when the problem came back. This persisted for a few weeks more and then went away.
This last summer it started happening again and continued up through October and went away again. I think the problem seems to happen when it's hot in the summer.
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I have a 91 Toyota pickup. Few weeks ago setting in drive through truck quit when I turned on a/c. This happened coup,e times then next time I drove it ran fine. Then it stopped two days in row after driving 20 min. Truck would crank but shut down immediately. Waited few minutes and cranked and drove home no problems. Now truck will only run few min. Before stopping and if I turn on fan or lights the truck stops. Swapped battery from another vehicle but did not fix. Alternator seems to be charging fine, checked with meter output 14.5 volts charging. Checked for codes and no codes.
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My 1992 Toyota pickup (138,000 mi) started popping out of first gear today. How big of a problem is this and what needs to be done??
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'91 Toyota 2wd Pickup, 22R-E Engine. 1 yr. ago out of the blue it would start and idle, but if I give it any gas it would die. Shop had trouble figuring it out, then replaced Mass Airflow Sensor; problem re-occurred after once after this repair, but could not be reproduced at shop. 1 yr. later, driving along and engine quits without any warning. Very hard to start, but restarts once, drives about one more block, dies. Unable to restart; engine will crank and catch, but after about 1 second dies. Tried unplugging Mass Airflow Sensor; no change. Left sitting overnight, next morning it starts right up. Problem seems similar to a year ago, though this time it wouldn't start and idle, it would just start and immediately die. In every instance it was rainy/slushy and cold.
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When accelerating there is a noise that seems to come from the exhaust (can not be duplicated not in gear). This noise got louder recently, and then the noise stopped. When the noise stopped, the check engine light illuminated as well as the VCS and VCS off lights. Is there a common cause for this and/or trouble shooting steps that should be followed?
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