Toyota - Pickup :: 1991 V6 Overheating At Idle And Cool Down Again Once Began Driving
Jul 20, 2016
I have a 1991 V6 automatic Toyota pickup. The transmission has ~230,000 miles, but the engine has been rebuilt and probably has less than 5,000 miles on it. I am having overheating issues in both departments.
Engine overheating: This has started fairly recently. My truck began overheating at idle (usually at longer traffic lights) and would cool down again once I began driving. My coolant was low, I took it to a shop, and they fixed a small leak. Fast forward a few weeks and it happened again, and this time when I turned on my heat full blast to take heat off the engine it blew cool air until I started driving. Took it back, they found no more leaks, and couldn't duplicate the overheating symptoms. They also said the fan and thermostat seemed to be working fine. It seems to happen sporadically, regardless of coolant levels.
Transmission overheating: Firstly, my truck tends to delay/hard shift when I first start it in the morning. Once the engine warms up it goes away for the most part. I took it on a 100 mile trip camping on a fairly curvy/hilly forest highway and the A/T Oil Temp light came on. This has happened before when I took it on forest roads, even after a recent ATF flush. Needless to say I had to stop a few times to cool it off. It felt like the transmission was working too hard at a flat 60MPH (2,500-2,800RPMs). A couple times the RPMs were pulsing like it was switching gears back and forth. The next day driving in town everything was back to working order.
I'm not sure if these two things are connected... but they never happen at the same time. I'm taking it to a transmission shop but I want to make sure they don't try to rip me off unless absolutely necessary.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I was driving yesterday and my Toyota pickup started losing power. If I let off the gas at a stop it would rapidly die. I managed to get it home but had to floor it just to get it going in 1st and 2nd gear, and if it was in neutral it would die without giving it a lot of gas. The only way it will start is if I give it a lot of gas while turning the ignition, and have to keep the RPM's up to keep it running. Looked under the hood while it was running and when I let off the throttle the entire motor would shake violently. Cant tell if it's just not getting fuel correctly or if it blew a head gasket maybe. Seems like it might only be firing on 2 or 3 cylinders.
View 3 Replies
I have a 91 Toyota pickup. Few weeks ago setting in drive through truck quit when I turned on a/c. This happened coup,e times then next time I drove it ran fine. Then it stopped two days in row after driving 20 min. Truck would crank but shut down immediately. Waited few minutes and cranked and drove home no problems. Now truck will only run few min. Before stopping and if I turn on fan or lights the truck stops. Swapped battery from another vehicle but did not fix. Alternator seems to be charging fine, checked with meter output 14.5 volts charging. Checked for codes and no codes.
View 2 Replies
'91 Toyota 2wd Pickup, 22R-E Engine. 1 yr. ago out of the blue it would start and idle, but if I give it any gas it would die. Shop had trouble figuring it out, then replaced Mass Airflow Sensor; problem re-occurred after once after this repair, but could not be reproduced at shop. 1 yr. later, driving along and engine quits without any warning. Very hard to start, but restarts once, drives about one more block, dies. Unable to restart; engine will crank and catch, but after about 1 second dies. Tried unplugging Mass Airflow Sensor; no change. Left sitting overnight, next morning it starts right up. Problem seems similar to a year ago, though this time it wouldn't start and idle, it would just start and immediately die. In every instance it was rainy/slushy and cold.
View 8 Replies
My R has 133,000 miles and is overheating at speed. It will cool down at idle. Both fans are working. The water pump was replaced at 105,000 and I replaced both fans at 95,000 miles. The dash temp gauge goes almost to the red, but not all the way. It gets hot enough to shut off the A/C compressor.
Based on the collective wisdom of this forum, does this is a failing water pump, or a partially opening thermostat? This past winter it seemed to take longer for it to get warm. I'm leaning to thermostat.
View 9 Replies
Mine is toyota corolla - 2001 VE model. It has 116K miles in it.
It hesitates nowadays to pickup after a long idle time, say in morning when i start to work or when i leave from work to home(idle time of 8 to 10 hrs). I noticed this problem only during very high temp, say atleast 80F.
Hesitation will be there for 4 or 5 secs and will not move even if i give full acceleration, but after that it moves normally.
Car has automatic transmission and i only see this i put it to Drive(D or D2) and not when i do reverse.
View 3 Replies
I have a 1981 Toyota pickup. when i start her. she starts fine, but sometimes she will idle fine, and then suddenly refuse to. it seems to be random. i can keep her running if i keep my foot on the gas just a little, to keep her rpm's up. but have to put her into N and keep my right foot on the gas and my left on the brake to stop her when she refuses to idle. when she does this on the freeway, it just sputters and runs rough, but as long as i have the gas on, she keeps going.
I don't know what it is that regulates the idle to keep her going when my foot isn't on the gas. also her serpentine belt is slipping. the one attached to the alternator, i can see her charge voltage dropping when she squeals her belt. that i know how to fix, but i'm wondering if it's that, that is the issue? i was told that, but i don't think her serpentine belt has anything to do with her idling. i was told how to raise her idle on the throttle cable and the Idle screw, but is there something else that regulates her idling?
View 2 Replies
I have a 91 Nissan pick up that is just making a clicking noise upon trying to start it. I replaced the battery. The inside light works, radio works, dash clock works, but still just clicking upon trying to start. Is there a clutch safety switch that could cause this, or starter, or ???
View 8 Replies
My 94 Toyota Pickup is having a strange intermittent issue. Engine will run hot, like the thermostat is stuck periodically. Does not overheat, just runs much closer to the red than usual. Again this only happens sometimes. It is worth noting that it is winter here in Northern Sonoma County, CA, so it may actually get into the red if I were driving around in the summer. I have also not taken it on trips over 30 miles when it was doing this.
When this problem occurs (e.g. the engine has been running hot) and I shut the truck off and say run into the store, then come back to a heat soaked engine it idles very rough when started (like it's missing on one cylinder). Once I put it in gear and start driving the idle smooths out and I have no problems. Problem has been going on for about a week.
Sticking thermostat seems obvious but that does not explain the rough idle on start up. Or does it. If so why?
View 11 Replies
At idle, on hot days (90+) after about a minute, the A/C cuts out and the temp gauge begins to rise. Gets about 3/4 of the way to the red zone, but never reaches it. I changed radiator cap, but still does it. Fluid level is fine; no coolant leaks that I can see. Called a mechanic and asked about a radiator flush. He said he'd do one, but it probably wouldn't work and I should just bring it in for a diagnostic.
View 7 Replies
I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
View 1 Replies
I've offered to do a basic compression check on a 22R engine, '85 Toyota pickup, which is apparently low on power, won't go above 50 mph. Yes it could be a multitude of things. Chances are it's several of them.
I have not yet heard it run. I'll consider myself lucky if I hear the uneven cadence of running on three cylinders.
My job Tuesday is to screen it for the most obvious things like a clogged air intake or air filter, choke stuck closed, worn spark plugs, etc, and do a simple compression test. I will again try to persuade the owner to take it to the skilled mechanic I've recommended, which he has resisted thus far, even though he's about to set off on a long trip through desolate terrain.
I already suspect low compression based on what the owner has implied, but also wondering about ignition timing and vacuum advance. This is a carbureted engine, so does that mean that it also has a distributor and needs to have the timing set? I have a timing light, but only vaguely remember the procedure...disconnect vacuum line from carb and plug hose leading to distributor? Any marks on the harmonic balancer to align?
Evidently it has a bogus exhaust system too - no cat - making me wonder if there's a problem there. I'm not going to get too deep into this, but if I can at least spot the problem I want to be able to convince the owner that there's a clear explanation, so he'll get it resolved.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2001 Volvo S60. I just got in it to go to the store and I swear it is possessed! My engine immediately began shaking and rumbling the idle went from very high to dangerously low. I cut it off and cut it back on. There was no rumbling but now it is idling very high close to 3.5 rpm when it does settle after a while if i even touch the gas a little it shoots right back up. My emission error message is showing but i have had it looked at a few times and they can't find anything wrong with the emissions system. Recently my transmission message came on and stayed on for a week or so but went back off before I could have it looked at and it never drove any different even when the light was on
View 5 Replies
I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma pickup. I bought it used in the spring of 2009. I drove it for a few months without any problems and one day this problem developed. It won't start on the first attempt. Or it will start and then immediately die. It will take two or three tries to get it running.
I took it in to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong. I got a tune-up anyway and it drove like a champ. Until the next day when the problem came back. This persisted for a few weeks more and then went away.
This last summer it started happening again and continued up through October and went away again. I think the problem seems to happen when it's hot in the summer.
View 6 Replies
My 1992 Toyota pickup (138,000 mi) started popping out of first gear today. How big of a problem is this and what needs to be done??
View 4 Replies
My 1998 Toyota Corolla has 180 K miles. Two days ago I was putting the pedal down to get to work on time and it bucked, began chugging like a motorcycle and the check engine light (which was already on because of an emissions issue) began to flash. A mechanic looked at it and saw that cylinder 3 wasn't sparking. He changed the plugs and wires but the engine was still chugging, especially when idling. The mechanic decided it was a stuck or burnt valve because he said he could hear/feel a lack of compression in the cylinder. I'm looking for a second opinion on the issue, and a first opinion on the mechanic!
View 5 Replies
I have a 1986 Toyota pickup. It's small 2 wheel drive with a stick shift. 6 weeks ago, it started lugging very slightly on hills after I had first started the car (only in the first 5 minutes of driving). Then that stopped, and now it loses power on hills so that I have to keep shifting down and going slower until I'm chugging uphill in 2nd gear at 30 mph. It only happens on long hills with a sustained uphill; smaller ones it keeps speed and power fine.
View 2 Replies
I recently had a new engine and radiator installed in my 1993 toyota pickup. I checked the coolant and oil every day since the install, then drove it 250 miles or so without checking the coolant, and found that all the coolant was gone from the reserve tank, and there was a sludge at the bottom. I don't see any leaks, and the thermometer indicator was normal.
I don't understand where the coolant could have gone, given that it's a totally new motor and new radiator, new hoses. I'm worried about the competence of my mechanic, not noticing a dirty coolant reservoir and maybe messing something else up.
View 16 Replies
I have 2009 tacoma pickup w/10k After starting fine and driving a few mins. and turning off it will not restart for aleast 10=15 mins. All the instr. lights come on like normal.....but it will not crank nothing? no starter noise ...nothing I contacted my dealer The service guy said (never heard that before)....
View 3 Replies
When adjusting valves on a 1986 22RE Toyota engine, the manual says to adjust intake to .008 and exhaust to .011 when the engine is "hot". I was doing some research and it seems to be a somewhat common practice to adjust valves on these engines to .007 intake and .011 exhaust when the engine is cold. The explanation being that the clearances will open up some when the engine warms up or gets to "hot". I always thought the clearances would get tighter as the engine warmed up but my "knowledge" is based on traditional pushrod engines and this is an overhead cam engine. If adjusted cold, will the clearances get smaller or larger when the engine is hot? And is it ok to adjust the valves cold? And how hot is correct amount of hot if I adjust them according to the manual?
View 11 Replies
I have a 1996 Chevy pickup with a 5.7 motor. I pulled the plug, oil is draining and I usually lift the hood; but this time I didn't (don't know why). Something came up and we had to leave quickly and we jumped in the truck and got 1/8 mile down the road, I pulled the plug on the oil. Turned around and parked it - the oil filter was still in - so there should of been some oil in there!?!? Do I need to be concerned that I damaged anything?
View 10 Replies
