Toyota - Pickup :: 1990 - Emergency Hand Brake Stuck
Oct 12, 2013
I have a 1990 Toyota pickup. I've been told to always put the brake on when I park. The brake is a hand lever under the dash that I pull out and then to release, I push a button, pull a little and then push. Yesterday I got into the truck and went to release the brake and it was stuck. I had my foot on the brake, and it was in 1st which isn't out of the norm for how I start the truck. I did notice that the handle seemed loose. I eventually got it back in after starting the truck again and putting it into first and trying to pull forward with the brake on. I'm concerned that if I use it again it will stick again and not go back in! What has happened!?
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Okay let me start by saying my car is APR Stage 1. The other day I was driving with my cruise control on and held in the accelerate button to speed up. After holding in the button for a couple seconds the check engine light and battery light flashed back and forth as if I changed some setting with the tune. Ever since that happened, if I turn the TCS off, the emergency brake light comes out and the error message 'check brake pads' is displayed on the MFI. Also, the weird part is that it's not just the light. The actual emergency brake is slightly on without pulling the handle. I can feel it when I accelerate. It's harder to get the car going. Once I turn the car off and leave it off for a few hours it goes back to normal. Why this is happening?
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2001 Elantra, Hand brake stuck, is there a release button? I can not seem to release my hand brake. How can I release it so I can make adjustments?
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I have an '92 Explorer 4X4 with a stuck emergency brake. I have tried tugging on the lines from the back of the truck (where the line splits into two beside the frame). The brake is stuck in the on position, and when I pull the release nothing happens. It has been cold here lately, so i thought they were frozen, but after pulling the release lever, it seems like a mechanical issue.
Any temporary solution that get my truck drive-able and to my mechanic for a closer look. I am not very mechanically inclined but it seems to me that the release lever is pulling at nothing and not moving the cog to release the actual emergency brake.
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I was driving when my 1993 Toyota Pickup's brake and battery light came on simultaneously. As far as I could tell, nothing changed in the way the car was handling, nor any smoke, smells, or sounds. I was about an hour from home, so I continued on my way. After about half an hour, the check engine light popped on. I still didn't notice any change in the car.
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I own a 2005 Toyota prius and when I turn on the car, all the lights on the dashboard turn on but when the e-brake won't turn on when I put the e-brake on.
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I have owned a 2006 Toyota Sienna for about a year and half, it has 180,000+ miles on it. Periodically and totally unexpectedly, we'll go over a bump in the road and the van will totally lock up like I have pulled the emergency break up. Which I haven't. The van will still be in drive, the tires will come to a complete stop and we'll have see and smell burning rubber.
To get the car going again, we'll have to put it back into park and then back into drive. Its one of the scariest things I have witness being in a car. Luckily it usually happens between 10 -20 miles per hour and we haven't had an accident because of it. I have taken the van to 3 mechanics including a Toyota dealer and no one has been able to fix it. The only thing that has work for a time has been cleaning the speed senors, Also, it maybe worse when the A/C is on but we aren't sure.
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Brake rear drums overheating on My LC 80 series '90 GX model has been having reoccurring left side rear overheating after driving for 2-3 hours in traffic. It has been worked on many times since the lastest attempt both sides heated to about 100-110+F on the rim with the right one the hotter. The wheel cylinders have been replaced, the brake shoes, bearings and seals on the left side in the hub with the springs, self adjuster and cable in the drum, the front disc pads also. There has been some engineering: welding on the lh rear axle diff tube which was done. The problem stressed out the last mechanic. He wants to replace the master cylinder next. Remove self-adjuster mechanisms is it a possible fix?
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Having issue with the hand brake? It works fine, just when I want to release it, the brake light stays on and when you drive away hand brake warning comes up and I have to play with the handle to make the brake light go away after release...
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I've offered to do a basic compression check on a 22R engine, '85 Toyota pickup, which is apparently low on power, won't go above 50 mph. Yes it could be a multitude of things. Chances are it's several of them.
I have not yet heard it run. I'll consider myself lucky if I hear the uneven cadence of running on three cylinders.
My job Tuesday is to screen it for the most obvious things like a clogged air intake or air filter, choke stuck closed, worn spark plugs, etc, and do a simple compression test. I will again try to persuade the owner to take it to the skilled mechanic I've recommended, which he has resisted thus far, even though he's about to set off on a long trip through desolate terrain.
I already suspect low compression based on what the owner has implied, but also wondering about ignition timing and vacuum advance. This is a carbureted engine, so does that mean that it also has a distributor and needs to have the timing set? I have a timing light, but only vaguely remember the procedure...disconnect vacuum line from carb and plug hose leading to distributor? Any marks on the harmonic balancer to align?
Evidently it has a bogus exhaust system too - no cat - making me wonder if there's a problem there. I'm not going to get too deep into this, but if I can at least spot the problem I want to be able to convince the owner that there's a clear explanation, so he'll get it resolved.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma pickup. I bought it used in the spring of 2009. I drove it for a few months without any problems and one day this problem developed. It won't start on the first attempt. Or it will start and then immediately die. It will take two or three tries to get it running.
I took it in to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong. I got a tune-up anyway and it drove like a champ. Until the next day when the problem came back. This persisted for a few weeks more and then went away.
This last summer it started happening again and continued up through October and went away again. I think the problem seems to happen when it's hot in the summer.
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I have a 91 Toyota pickup. Few weeks ago setting in drive through truck quit when I turned on a/c. This happened coup,e times then next time I drove it ran fine. Then it stopped two days in row after driving 20 min. Truck would crank but shut down immediately. Waited few minutes and cranked and drove home no problems. Now truck will only run few min. Before stopping and if I turn on fan or lights the truck stops. Swapped battery from another vehicle but did not fix. Alternator seems to be charging fine, checked with meter output 14.5 volts charging. Checked for codes and no codes.
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My 1992 Toyota pickup (138,000 mi) started popping out of first gear today. How big of a problem is this and what needs to be done??
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'91 Toyota 2wd Pickup, 22R-E Engine. 1 yr. ago out of the blue it would start and idle, but if I give it any gas it would die. Shop had trouble figuring it out, then replaced Mass Airflow Sensor; problem re-occurred after once after this repair, but could not be reproduced at shop. 1 yr. later, driving along and engine quits without any warning. Very hard to start, but restarts once, drives about one more block, dies. Unable to restart; engine will crank and catch, but after about 1 second dies. Tried unplugging Mass Airflow Sensor; no change. Left sitting overnight, next morning it starts right up. Problem seems similar to a year ago, though this time it wouldn't start and idle, it would just start and immediately die. In every instance it was rainy/slushy and cold.
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Let my brother borrow my 98 S-10 and before he even got home with it he called and said the brake light was on. I figured it was the emergency pedal was down a little. Said there were no leaks. Got it back today and the fluid level is way down. Filled, but the low pedal is still there. Can find no leaks. Also the ck engine light is on. May not be related. Didn't get a chance to ck code.
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I have a 1986 Toyota pickup. It's small 2 wheel drive with a stick shift. 6 weeks ago, it started lugging very slightly on hills after I had first started the car (only in the first 5 minutes of driving). Then that stopped, and now it loses power on hills so that I have to keep shifting down and going slower until I'm chugging uphill in 2nd gear at 30 mph. It only happens on long hills with a sustained uphill; smaller ones it keeps speed and power fine.
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I recently had a new engine and radiator installed in my 1993 toyota pickup. I checked the coolant and oil every day since the install, then drove it 250 miles or so without checking the coolant, and found that all the coolant was gone from the reserve tank, and there was a sludge at the bottom. I don't see any leaks, and the thermometer indicator was normal.
I don't understand where the coolant could have gone, given that it's a totally new motor and new radiator, new hoses. I'm worried about the competence of my mechanic, not noticing a dirty coolant reservoir and maybe messing something else up.
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I have 2009 tacoma pickup w/10k After starting fine and driving a few mins. and turning off it will not restart for aleast 10=15 mins. All the instr. lights come on like normal.....but it will not crank nothing? no starter noise ...nothing I contacted my dealer The service guy said (never heard that before)....
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When adjusting valves on a 1986 22RE Toyota engine, the manual says to adjust intake to .008 and exhaust to .011 when the engine is "hot". I was doing some research and it seems to be a somewhat common practice to adjust valves on these engines to .007 intake and .011 exhaust when the engine is cold. The explanation being that the clearances will open up some when the engine warms up or gets to "hot". I always thought the clearances would get tighter as the engine warmed up but my "knowledge" is based on traditional pushrod engines and this is an overhead cam engine. If adjusted cold, will the clearances get smaller or larger when the engine is hot? And is it ok to adjust the valves cold? And how hot is correct amount of hot if I adjust them according to the manual?
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I have a intermittent problem with the abs. when I go around a right hand curve there is a clicking sound. This happens between 30 and 40 mph. When I go around a left hand curve the brakes will grab, with the skid i-con illuminate , but no fault code. I have had the toyota dealership looked at it. But they couldn't duplicate. I also had a independent mechanic look at it, he put the computer on it.
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My friend's Emergency Brake is tricky: It usually doesn't hold, but pops off again. Its as if the 'teeth' somewhere inside were worn or maybe a ratchet has been rounded.
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