Toyota - Pickup :: 1986 - Valve Adjustment Cold Or Hot?
Jan 20, 2011
When adjusting valves on a 1986 22RE Toyota engine, the manual says to adjust intake to .008 and exhaust to .011 when the engine is "hot". I was doing some research and it seems to be a somewhat common practice to adjust valves on these engines to .007 intake and .011 exhaust when the engine is cold. The explanation being that the clearances will open up some when the engine warms up or gets to "hot". I always thought the clearances would get tighter as the engine warmed up but my "knowledge" is based on traditional pushrod engines and this is an overhead cam engine. If adjusted cold, will the clearances get smaller or larger when the engine is hot? And is it ok to adjust the valves cold? And how hot is correct amount of hot if I adjust them according to the manual?
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I have a 1986 Toyota pickup. It's small 2 wheel drive with a stick shift. 6 weeks ago, it started lugging very slightly on hills after I had first started the car (only in the first 5 minutes of driving). Then that stopped, and now it loses power on hills so that I have to keep shifting down and going slower until I'm chugging uphill in 2nd gear at 30 mph. It only happens on long hills with a sustained uphill; smaller ones it keeps speed and power fine.
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In cold weather at low rpm's, my truck has poor acceleration until the rpm's increase and it takes off. I replaced spark plugs, wire, cap, and rotor.
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I have an 86 Nissan pickup with a z24 motor in it, yes the weird 4 cyl. With 8 plugs. It has been lurching when I let off the throttle or sometimes when I accelerate. Its been doing it for a year and won't do it all the time it is intermittent but does it more then it doesn't.
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Two wheel drive, small engine with two spark plugs per cylinder...clutch with five speed transmission. Over two hundred thousand miles on it. Drove it thirty miles on a rainy evening. Shut it off for about one hour and when I tried to restart, it just went click. Got towed thirty miles home. Replaced starter with brand new one and also new battery. Still nothing but click-click. Does start from clutch engagement when rolling. The trouble seems to be somewhere between the starter and the battery. What to do?
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I'm attempting to adjust the TV cable on my 92 gtz V6 3sp auto as it is shifting late...I have found the following instructions (which seem simple enough):
Step 1 Stop engine.
Step 2 TBI equipped models, Remove air cleaner assembly.
Step 3 Push and hold down the metal readjusting tab at the engine end of the cable.
Step 4 While holding the tab down, move the slider until it stops against the fitting.
Step 5 Release adjustment tab.
Step 6 Rotate the throttle lever to the wide-open position, cable will come back and automatically readjust itself.
However, I don't know what I'm doing or better yet, looking at when I am trying to do this..I see the throttle, the cable, can move the throttle to wide open but what I'm not seeing/recognizing on the throttle mechanism is:
1. The metal adjusting tab at the engine end of the cable
2. The slider
3. The fitting the slider is supposed to butt up against
how to properly adjust the cable and have come up blank.
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Bmw 735il 1988 : Car has been sitting for 4-years I have done all the maintenance including the Valve adjustment .012 cold. I hear a louder then normal ticking in the valve train seems like its coming from the intake side towards the rear. I double checked all the gaps several times and they are correct. Could this be a carbon build up, plugs were black due to a bad coolant sensor everything tune up related has been replaced. Before the adjustment I started the car for a few minutes and did not hear the ticking, does it need to go for a long drive or am I missing something? Is there a way to narrow with valve is causing this, could it be the oil tube blocked on the rear section? Can I remove the valve cover and observe with out taking an oil bath?
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I've offered to do a basic compression check on a 22R engine, '85 Toyota pickup, which is apparently low on power, won't go above 50 mph. Yes it could be a multitude of things. Chances are it's several of them.
I have not yet heard it run. I'll consider myself lucky if I hear the uneven cadence of running on three cylinders.
My job Tuesday is to screen it for the most obvious things like a clogged air intake or air filter, choke stuck closed, worn spark plugs, etc, and do a simple compression test. I will again try to persuade the owner to take it to the skilled mechanic I've recommended, which he has resisted thus far, even though he's about to set off on a long trip through desolate terrain.
I already suspect low compression based on what the owner has implied, but also wondering about ignition timing and vacuum advance. This is a carbureted engine, so does that mean that it also has a distributor and needs to have the timing set? I have a timing light, but only vaguely remember the procedure...disconnect vacuum line from carb and plug hose leading to distributor? Any marks on the harmonic balancer to align?
Evidently it has a bogus exhaust system too - no cat - making me wonder if there's a problem there. I'm not going to get too deep into this, but if I can at least spot the problem I want to be able to convince the owner that there's a clear explanation, so he'll get it resolved.
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My 1970 chevy c10 pickup is a 350 with automatic transmission 2wd. It doesn't get driven frequently and when I do the first time I put it into gear, fwd or reverse, it is slow to engage. Shortly after it has warmed up however, this problem goes away. What this sounds like?
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My AC blows cold for a little while, then it blows warm. If I wait and turn it back on the cycle repeats it self. I had the freon filled. Not sure what to do? 1997 nissan pickup....
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma pickup. I bought it used in the spring of 2009. I drove it for a few months without any problems and one day this problem developed. It won't start on the first attempt. Or it will start and then immediately die. It will take two or three tries to get it running.
I took it in to my mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong. I got a tune-up anyway and it drove like a champ. Until the next day when the problem came back. This persisted for a few weeks more and then went away.
This last summer it started happening again and continued up through October and went away again. I think the problem seems to happen when it's hot in the summer.
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I have a 91 Toyota pickup. Few weeks ago setting in drive through truck quit when I turned on a/c. This happened coup,e times then next time I drove it ran fine. Then it stopped two days in row after driving 20 min. Truck would crank but shut down immediately. Waited few minutes and cranked and drove home no problems. Now truck will only run few min. Before stopping and if I turn on fan or lights the truck stops. Swapped battery from another vehicle but did not fix. Alternator seems to be charging fine, checked with meter output 14.5 volts charging. Checked for codes and no codes.
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My 1992 Toyota pickup (138,000 mi) started popping out of first gear today. How big of a problem is this and what needs to be done??
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'91 Toyota 2wd Pickup, 22R-E Engine. 1 yr. ago out of the blue it would start and idle, but if I give it any gas it would die. Shop had trouble figuring it out, then replaced Mass Airflow Sensor; problem re-occurred after once after this repair, but could not be reproduced at shop. 1 yr. later, driving along and engine quits without any warning. Very hard to start, but restarts once, drives about one more block, dies. Unable to restart; engine will crank and catch, but after about 1 second dies. Tried unplugging Mass Airflow Sensor; no change. Left sitting overnight, next morning it starts right up. Problem seems similar to a year ago, though this time it wouldn't start and idle, it would just start and immediately die. In every instance it was rainy/slushy and cold.
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I recently had a new engine and radiator installed in my 1993 toyota pickup. I checked the coolant and oil every day since the install, then drove it 250 miles or so without checking the coolant, and found that all the coolant was gone from the reserve tank, and there was a sludge at the bottom. I don't see any leaks, and the thermometer indicator was normal.
I don't understand where the coolant could have gone, given that it's a totally new motor and new radiator, new hoses. I'm worried about the competence of my mechanic, not noticing a dirty coolant reservoir and maybe messing something else up.
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I have 2009 tacoma pickup w/10k After starting fine and driving a few mins. and turning off it will not restart for aleast 10=15 mins. All the instr. lights come on like normal.....but it will not crank nothing? no starter noise ...nothing I contacted my dealer The service guy said (never heard that before)....
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I drive my pickup (87 Toyota 4-cylinder carburetor 5-speed Xtracab Deluxe) occasionally. When it's sat for a week or more it takes a few tens of seconds to start. I bought a booster battery. The charging light comes on, but it goes out as soon as the engine starts. I'm used to hard-to-start cars charging for a while after a long start. The voltage coming out of the alternator is okay. The battery is new; the density of the electrolyte is right.
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I have a 1990 Toyota pickup. I've been told to always put the brake on when I park. The brake is a hand lever under the dash that I pull out and then to release, I push a button, pull a little and then push. Yesterday I got into the truck and went to release the brake and it was stuck. I had my foot on the brake, and it was in 1st which isn't out of the norm for how I start the truck. I did notice that the handle seemed loose. I eventually got it back in after starting the truck again and putting it into first and trying to pull forward with the brake on. I'm concerned that if I use it again it will stick again and not go back in! What has happened!?
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The temperature gauge on the dashboard is jumping around after the car warms up. It rapidly goes from cold to normal in an unpredictable pattern. It never goes over the middle. I have had both the engine and the radiator replaced in the past year!
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When I turned the key to start my car, I got zero activity from it. No ticking, no lights, nothing. So I tried to do a push start, and the engine wouldn't engage. I took the key out, and suddenly my dome light popped on (though it was dim). I put my key back in and turned it, and dash lights looked normal and at full power, but as soon as I pressed the clutch down and tried to turn the key, everything went dead. I took the key out, put it back in, and turned it, but got nothing.
I pushed my truck up to the top of an incline, and turned the key. All the lights looked normal, so I thought I may be able to push start it. Key was in proper position, clutch was engaged, and gear shift was sitting in first. I got a decent speed, released the clutch... and everything went dead.
I can't decide if it's my starter or my ignition system, though I suppose it could be the wiring, or even something else.
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Truck has many issues, among them loose steering. I took it in for a checkup, and it needs a new steering gear. How difficult are they to replace?
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