Toyota - Overheating - Sequoia :: 2004 - AC Cuts Out And Temp Gauge Begins To Rise At Idle
Aug 1, 2013
At idle, on hot days (90+) after about a minute, the A/C cuts out and the temp gauge begins to rise. Gets about 3/4 of the way to the red zone, but never reaches it. I changed radiator cap, but still does it. Fluid level is fine; no coolant leaks that I can see. Called a mechanic and asked about a radiator flush. He said he'd do one, but it probably wouldn't work and I should just bring it in for a diagnostic.
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My 1991 Nissan 240SX (only 85K miles!) has an intermittent overheating problem that began last November. Needle usually right in middle, but occasionally would quickly rise to danger zone. In Nov., I got new radiator and pump, as well as all new spark plugs. Was OK for about 3 months, then started overheating occasionally. In shop a day and a half while they tried to find the cause. Gave me a new thermostat. Then test showed there was a leak in head gasket. Instead of expensive repairs, I put 8-oz bottle of K-Seal in cooling system. Reviews all over the web gave me confidence it would seal all leaks. But within 5 minutes, it overheated. Tried again later, same result.
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I purchase my 05 GX470 last April,
Had the timing belt and water pump replaced as part of the deal. Lately in the cooler temperatures around the freezing point I've noticed that the temp gauge does not start to rise until I've driven about five minutes, longer if I go thru a drive thru and the truck is idling in the line up and the heater fan does not come on until I've driven about 10 minutes. The temp gauge takes about 15 -20 minutes of driving till it hits normal or half way on the scale. This seems longer than what I consider normal, at least for the heat to come on.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Sequoia, V8 4.7L that overheats only when the A/C is turned on. Without A/C on, it runs perfectly normal. I have replaced the thermostat twice, replaced the radiator, replaced the electric A/C cooling fan, replaced the fan clutch, and just recently replaced the water pump (wow, what a job that was!). Even with all these repairs, the engine still overheats only with the A/C on. What to do next?!
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I got a mk4 where the temp gauge starts to climb to 3/4 instead of halfway when I'm idling for a while.
1. fans don't come on
2. if I turn on ac, fan come on and temp stays at 1/2
I tested low and high speed on fans. both operational. Is it the fan control module, temp sensor green top, or radiator s/w?
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I Have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is running rough and the windows stopped working and the temp gauge doesn't rise. Would this be do to a bad/failing alternator or something else?
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I have a 2004 Grand Prix and it is displaying the symptoms of overheating but the temp gauge is not going above normal operating temp. I replaced the thermostat twice, and after driving for about 10-20 mins coolant comes out of the overflow. I'm at a loss, I'm thinking temp sensor(?) But I don't want to keep throwing unnecessary money into it. The fans work fine, the heater blows as it should.
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I have a 2007 6.0 that this has happened to twice now. It's fine around town but I never hear the can come on. Friday when on the interstate my my temp gauge started to rise past normal operating temperature before fan came on. Is this normal? After the fan came on it stayed at normal temp for the rest of trip....
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I have a 1998 chevy cavalier, 4 door, 2.2 liter SOHC, which has been running hot for a while now. readings are off the dash guage, here's the scenario. on startup from cold, the temperature begins to rise within 60 seconds, reaching what i consider normal operating temperature within three to five minutes, at approximately the "NO" in " NORMAL" on the gauge.
It reaches what has become it's usual operating temperature, at "RM" within another minute or two. If i am in stop and go traffic, the temperature will rapidly reach the final mark after the "L", but not the red zone. If I get on the highway, the temperature will reduce back to the "RM" position within one to two minutes, three to four minutes in steady traffic at lower speeds, i.e. 35 and all green lights. Thermostat has been replaced, water pump has been replaced, electric cooling fan is running correctly, radiator is free and clear of debris.
When I first got the car back in 2000, it ramped up to heat much more slowly, and hung out at "NO" in all types of traffic. in 2004 i went and picked up my car from my father's place, he had taken it to the local shop and had it given the once over, which is when this problem began showing up, and has gotten progressively worse over the years. I've gotten nowhere with other mechanics, the system is leak free, and the coolant tests good.
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I've noticed that in the past week or so, whenever I'm stuck in traffic for a few minutes, the engine temp will slowly rise. it gets really bad if traffic is crawling; the temp has reached that 2nd highest line before the red area.
Whenever I get going again and hit the gas, the temp drops. What it is?
Car is currently at 86k miles. I don't believe the water pump has been replaced yet.
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2.5 months ago I had a coolant flush in my 2007 explorer Eddie Bauer. The last 3 days last week the temp gauge went from the middle where it usually sits, to maxed out in the red. Stays there for about 45 secs and then drops back down.
Is it coincidence that I had a flush and maybe they didn't fill it all the way back up or is it somthing else ?
One other thing- even when it sits in the middle of the gauge I can sometimes hear the engine sucking in air like a vacuum so I guess at certain times its running hot but just doesn't raise the gauge just yet.
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My 01 passat is telling me to check my coolant when it's working fine and its not overheating I think it might just be a sensor because my check engine light is on and it's reading thermostat.
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After a trip of about an hour to the Fryeburg Fair yesterday I noticed my temperature gauge needle was going way up. I was able to park my car and went to the fair for about 4-5 hours. Before we left I checked the coolant level as the car had cooled off enough to take the cap off. The coolant right to the top and was green. I checked my oil level and that was fine. On the way home my son suggested that I turn the heat on. I did so and the temp gauge went down to normal and stayed that way all the way back home to Lewiston, Maine. I'm thinking it might be the thermostat but thought I would for any other possible reasons my car is doing this. The car has about 216,000 miles and I did have the thermostat replaced a couple of years ago.....???
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My sister has a 2004 gli 1.8t with 65k. The temperature gauge says its overheating, the cel is on, but the car appears to run fine, the fluid levels are appear to be fine, and you cant see any leaks. Her fiance thinks its water pump issues...
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I got my 2003 Mini Cooper out of the shop about 3 weeks ago.. They replaced the damper, the serpentine belt, thermostat, coolant gasket seal, rear rotors/breaks, bleeding of the breaks, and inner cv boot. Noted to get the oil pan gasket replace which i planned on doing in the upcoming week when i got an oil change but they put beside it was light leakage. All Power Steering was redone under a recall warranty mid July.
Yesterday earlier that morning my battery light came on but than proceeded to try off by the time i was back home. I drive my car in the afternoon, i notice that my battery light is on and continued to stay on. Then my temperature gauge goes all the way up. i open the hood, its nothing noticeably different. I sit there for quite some time and i drive it again to see if it would overheat. I drove about 3 miles to my in-laws and the car no longer overheated. I decide to drive it down to the AutoZone to check my battery and she tells me it weak to leave the car running to see if it recharges but thinks something pulling on the battery. (the battery is new barely over a year old) During the drive to the autozone and back to my mother in laws the car doesn't overheat but the battery light remains on. I leave the car running in the driveway a bit later i notice the car is smoking, literally hear the antifreeze boil in the car,antifreeze is all over the ground, and the temperature gauge is running hot but the cars fan was not running.
i'm not sure if these problems are connected but i never had either of these problems prior to get it worked on. My car has always started strong. The alternator could be going but all lights, electronics,door-locks, windows, heated seat are working. Furthermore, the car starts so strong every time, haven't had any symptoms of a bad alternator.I read it could be a belt issue but the belt and damper are newly replaced.
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I have a 2003 vr6 with about 60,000 miles on it and it overheats. I can drive between 35-40 mph and make short trips no problem but when going any faster or accelerate faster than an old lady in a buick, the temp gauge slowly rises(or fast if i accelerate fast.) Until the "stop, check coolant" warning comes on(which i don't let get to that point.) it blows heat all the time, all the hoses get hot, I am no professional by any means but i have dealt with many different overheating issues with other vehicles but I am kind of stumped at what to try first so i don't end up replacing something that doesn't need to be because i do not have the extra $ to do so. The problem started when someone put dirt in my coolant, I flushed out the system twice, the second was just to see if anything else had loosened up that I may have missed the first time..
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Have a 2000 subaru outback 2.5l, automatic, with about 245k, I replaced the thermostat,water pump, the radiator and the car is still overheating. both fans are working. no leaking coolant. Maybe this is related- over heats mostly when driving on the highway. But if a shift the gear to neutral and coast for a minute the shift back to drive the temperature gauge goes down. Whats wrong, running out money fixing the car, but love it driving it in the snow.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab XE with a V6 (without the supercharger). I bought it on Halloween night with only 42,000 miles. It now has 112,000 miles on it. I moved from Georgia to Kentucky and heard that I needed to have the cooling system flushed/filled to prevent it from freezing in the winter time. I then noticed that it would periodically "overheat." The temperature gauge would climb up to the line just below the "H" and then I would turn on the heater.
I read online about a "bleeder valve" on top of the intake manifold. I loosened it, squeezed the radiator hoses to get all of the air out and then tightened the bleeder valve. I then let it run until the thermostat opened, revved it up to 3,000 to let all of the coolant flow. Now, at various time with no specific reason, it will run fine and then just "decide" to overheat.
I can drive it on the interstate for fifteen minutes, park it in front of my house and then have to "tack it up to 3,000" just to get it cool. I've changed the thermostat and had the water pump tested. Neither of them are faulty. My mechanic vacuumed out all of the air from the system with a special tool the dealer recommends using and it still does the same thing. What's going on with this vehicle?
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So a couple weeks back I'm on expressway home and I look down and and temp gauge is pegged out overheating I immediately pulled off and shut it down and towed to a buddy of mine's shop he flushed it filled it up w antifreeze and checked for leaks and couldn't find one. I drove it for about a week and got out to for a quick stop , Ex parked on a slight decline and came out to prolly half gallon of coolant on the ground..I limped it to my buddies shop as it was not running hot .. he has checked it out but can't find any leaks, even after having it run 30 or so minutes..
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I recently noticed louder than normal road noise coming from he front end of my SUV, which is right at 150K miles. I thought it was bad tires; both front ones had uneven wear. Got new ones and the noise is still there, loudest at 35-45 mph. The tire guys said I need new tie rod ends. From what little I know about those, they don't make the kind of noise I'm getting, but what do I know. I do know they are safety hazard and plan to get them fixed pronto. But will that fix the noise? I had the left side wheel bearings replaced last year, but this sound is not the same as this. Much less pronounced, but still fairly bothersome.
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Ok, so I'm getting the typical P2181 Cooling system performance. So i replaced my t-stat and ect sensor but no change. When i'm looking at my mvb's in 01 and 17 they're reading the same. I check my hose temp and both upper and lower are similar in heat. I can watch the temp rise in the mvb's till the fans kick on and the temp will drop.
Now, at start up it'll literally take about 9-12 min to warm up in this 20 degree weather. I was driving home tonight and got off I-5 and at the light with the heat on I watched the temp gauge drop from operating temp to almost the notch above cold, and I could feel the heat cool down coming out of the vents.
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