Toyota - Mr2 - Transmissions :: Chatter When Cold But Goes Away When Fully Warm
Mar 18, 2011
I just recently swapped out my Automatic Transmission in my 91 MR2. The person i received it from had the system completely drained, including the torque converter. I found this out kinda hard the way, knowing that the pan was empty, but not expecting the torque converter to be empty as well. After filling up the system, i thought i may have overfilled it, because the fluid level was reading above the hot mark on the dipstick. So i drained the fluid and replaced the transmission filter. I put in 3 quarts of fluid and added the 4th quart of fluid over time, mainly letting the car run and warm up to operating temp and then adding fluid and letting it settle.
I kept doing this until i got to the full mark on hot. So this is where I am at now... On a cold start, the transmission will chatter in all gears, from park to low. Give it about minute or so to start warming up the chattering slowly goes away. When its at operating temperature, there is no chattering at all in any of the gears, and it presumes to be normal and fine. It takes about 5 minutes to fully warm up to operating temperature. Should i worry about the chatter at the beginning while its warming up? i have to drive the car because I want to be sure that the transmission is okay. I have thought about adding an additive, but all that i have read is just bad results, and failed transmissions.
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I have a 2005 with V6 and 55,000 miles. For over the last year I have had a problem where if you start the car and then shut it off before it fully warms up it will be very hard to restart and barely run till you get it out and run it on the highway for awhile. First noticed this when starting car to back out of driveway to get into attic. Went to restart to put back in garage and car would hardly start. Had to dealer a couple of times and they said you should warm car up before using. That sounds good but is not practical and car never had this problem when new.
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I'm new to the Lexus scene, just got myself a gs300 le 2006 - just had it over a week, amazing car but its sounds a bit tappet on cold starts until fully warm sounds scary... noise disappears once it's fully warm.
for a Lexus to do this is a bit disappointed, have searched around can not really find a fix...
It has full Lexus service history, just changed the oil in hope for the noise to disappear... Castrol edge 5w30... no different
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I have a FWD 2009 Sienna with 62k that vibrate on cold days. It only vibrate when the shifter is on drive or reverse while stepping on the brake. There is no vibration while driving, only when I'm at a stop light. After the engine warms up, the vibration goes away. I can feel the vibration on the steering wheel. I just want some kind of knowledge before taking it in.
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I have 2002 Camry 2.4L (2AZ-FE Engine) Japan built. Lately, I noted the temperature gauge stay at the 4th mark when engine fully warm up (first mark is at bottom and slightly longer than the next few marks), is this normal? Which mark it is at when fully warm up.
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This just started yesterday on cold start and happened again this morning and this evening always after sitting for hours. I would call it a chatter sound, very distinct and only on the first start. Never heard it before. Have 97K on car, will be changing the plugs soon. Once it is warm the sound is not there on starts. It is only when starting, sounds fine once running. What would only be noisy when cold like this? Timing chain? Valves? I'm going to let others with a better sense of engines than me (my son and his friend who are mechanics) listen to it and see what they think. But it needs to be cold. Never heard such a sound on my Hondas which makes me think it may be the chain. Funny how it just came out of no where.
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My 97 F150 4.6 4x2. I have a semi-rough front end "chatter" when the brakes are first applied after vehicle has been sitting overnight. It feels like it comes from the front disk brakes, I assumed it was a warped rotor or loose wheel bearing so I replaced the front rotors (old were to thin to turn), new wheel bearings and pads. Still had the issue, so I then assumed it was a bad caliper... replaced both those, and all related hardware. Still have the issue!
I can not reproduce the event until the vehicle is in the cold state and it will only do it once or twice, so I am finding it difficult to diagnose. Tired of blindly attacking this issue by changing what I thought was obvious. F150, 130K miles, 4.6l, automatic, 4x2, rear drums, front disk
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Truck is a 1999 F-250 with manual climate control with A/C.
Heater core issue:
Heat is not very warm after engine is fully up to temp. Would like to back flush the heater core without damaging or making it leak. How should I do this safely?
Secondly, if I do make it leak, how hard is it to change out?
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My 2004 Toyota Matrix has been making a rattling/chattering noise when I accelerate. I took it to a shop (in nyc, where I live) who said it is a problem with the bearings and that my best bet is to replace the engine with a used one. He quoted me about $2500, parts and labor included. Also, he said it doesn't really make sense to try to rebuild the engine - better to replace it.
Does this cost/analysis make sense? I know nothing about car repair, but a bit of googling does seem to confirm that this is a problem with the bearings (particularly the rod bearings?).
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For a while now, I noticed that if i set the climate control to a lower temp, the air coming out of the vents would be cool, cooler than the outside temperature, even if the AC is off. And when I turn the temperature up all the way, it lets in engine heat as it should. For example today, it was around 26 degrees outside (79F) and I set the turned down the climate control to 20 degrees (68F). The air coming out of the vent felt quite cool, and when I manually turned the AC on, it of course felt even cooler. The fans were taking in air from the outside, not circulating from the cabin.
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In the really cold weather after I start my Jeep and it goes in Drive and it's driven for several miles when I go to put it back into Park the shifter gets hung up. It will go into all of the other gears except for Park. If I wait a while it goes back in but it can still feel like it's not smooth.
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During our last ice storm during a nice long skid down an icy hit, I reverted suddenly back to my days one decade ago of driving a stick-shift in the ice and tried to down-shift our '98 Camry (automatic). I placed it in reverse. It stalled. The car continues to run, but the check engine light came on. I took it into the garage and they couldn't find any engine issues. They turned off the check engine light. It came back on the next day. Sometimes it sounds like the gears aren't shifting automatically as I drive (rpms run high.) Am I damaging the car by continuing to drive it?
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I drove my 2001 land cruiser into the shop after a 3 hour drive - it was making a thud noise (sometimes) when I went from stop to go. Felt like transmission. They called and said they put it on the lift and heard a thud from the transfer case, put it down, and now it cannot go in forward or reverse, just grinds. I said - I drove it in - they replied it must have just gone out when they had it.
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Still P0303 code after: New spark plugs, new spark plug wiring, new coils, new injectors, full tune up. 99 Corolla 147,000 miles. What else could it be? o2 senor? or maybe intake manifold leak? valve leak? what am I missing?
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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This corolla is about 10-15 years old, i don't know how old. Again, its a manual transmission. It started today, when the car idles, the engine revs up a bit like a hum. I wasn't pressing the gas petal or anything and it just revs by it self. My dad says it was probably the engine was too cold and it is just warming itself. Then my dad said the car mechanic said its the gas sensor? He also said the sensor cost about 200 and with labor job, 280$. good deal?
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From stop. When I accelerate it takes a long time to get to drive. It feels like a lag time. What is wrong with my car?
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The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
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I put a clutch and throw out bearing in it about 4 months ago. All the sudden driving went to shift from 3rd to 4th and it wouldn't go. If you turn the car off you can shift it into gears. BUT if you try to turn the car on in gear it just jumps forward. I have had guesses all over the board about what it COULD be. It seems like a very exact problem to me. BUT with that said I have never worked on a car, just drove one.
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I have a 2001 RAV4 4WD. I gave the car to my sister. When she and other family members drive it, the car revs to 4K rpm without moving, hesitate, then drives. It is dangerous to merge. I know there is a bulletin on this problem for model years 2001 to 2003, and Toyota will replace the ECU and transmission, if damaged, extending the warranty to 150K miles or 10 years (the car has 108K miles, and approaching 10 years). However, no engine light and no code shows up.
We took it to 2 transmission specialists; both will not touch the transmission because they (independent of each other) feel it's the ECU. (We have used them in the past for other cars.) We then took it to 2 Toyota dealerships; Toyota won't fix it, recommends replacing the transmission. We are stuck because we can't get answers and can't get any solutions to our problem.
We called Toyota; the Toyota case worker has been useless, says he sees nothing wrong with the car and said it's safe to drive (it's not, especially when merging). Both local transmission specialists said they would not drive the car in that condition. Right now it's sitting in the driveway, totally useless.
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I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
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