Toyota - Mr2 :: 1987 - CEL Comes On And Off While Driving
Sep 1, 2016
I drive a 1987 MR2 and as of late the CEL has been going on and then off.The only times I've noticed it come on is early in the morning when driving to work (430am) and usually its a somewhat rushed start (get in the car, start her up and go... no time to warm up).I checked for codes and it just flashes once then resets.The CEL comes on when the RPM's get to/go over 3K-3.5K and then it goes off once I let off and the RPM's drop below said RPM's... The car idles a little rough and I've noticed a slight smell of gas in the cabin when I start the car... don't know what is causing it but I just roll down the window and carry on...
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Loaned my 1987 2wheel drive Toyota PU to someone. They drove 30 miles to get to my house to return it yesterday with the oil cap off. Oil spewed all over the engine. The cap was sitting next to the oil fill hole on the engine block. (Nope, it didn't fall out). Dipstick with cold engine has not a drop of oil on it. Person didn't hear any noises while driving here like that. What assorted problems could this cause with the engine and with any parts now covered with oil? after the oil is cleaned off, what should be done next: fill it? Tow it to a mechanic? Fill it and drive it to a mechanic? Don't fill it and tow it to a mechanic? (They have no idea why the cap was off or how it got that way)
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My 1987 Toyota Celica ST will not seem to turn over. When it has the push button addition that takes the power from the battery straight to the seloniod it works. But when i set the starter back up to the ignition switch and set it up factory style it will not spin over. it sends the 12 volts needed to start it but yet will not turn it over.
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1987 Toyota Celica GTS 2.0 manual Transmission The Problem ... The power cable to alternator sparked on the side of the engine when I was connecting it. I did not think the battery cable was connected at the time but it was.. Now I have NO SPARK I have changed all the fuses at the battery could not find any that were blown but still changed them and checked all the fuses under kick panels none were blown. What should I look for now?
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My 1987 Toyota Tercel wagon works very well -- except that it won't start in wet weather. Maybe this is condensation somewhere, maybe not.
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i have an 87 toyota 4runner with the 22re last week the starter stuck on and drained the battery and burned the starter up so i replaced the battery and starter and now it will start and run for about 3 seconds and run out of gas
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My 1987 toyota celica brake pedal is going to the floor when I apply the brakes but not all the time,i checked the pads and shoes they are still good i also bled the brakes, I am thinking it is the master cylinder or maybe the master cylinder needs to be bled.
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I drive my pickup (87 Toyota 4-cylinder carburetor 5-speed Xtracab Deluxe) occasionally. When it's sat for a week or more it takes a few tens of seconds to start. I bought a booster battery. The charging light comes on, but it goes out as soon as the engine starts. I'm used to hard-to-start cars charging for a while after a long start. The voltage coming out of the alternator is okay. The battery is new; the density of the electrolyte is right.
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I borrowed a friend's small Toyota truck for a few days of easy chores, and made a point to check the fuel at the beginning: the gauge showed 3/4 full. Four days and only 25 miles later, when I got in to return it, I noticed the fuel gauge was not working, I'm certain there's no fuel leak, I would have noticed that: the truck had been parked on my property the entire time, driven only a few hundred feet from one spot to another moving firewood around, so I would have smelled the gas if there was a leak.
When I added a couple gallons of fuel, the gauge didn't budge. Once on the road, I realized that the engine temperature gauge was also dead - no change on the gauge after 10 miles. So I have two non-functioning gauges which failed on my watch. This may not be directly my fault, but as my friend is kind enough to lend the truck whenever I need it, my contribution is to provide maintenance.
Is there anything in common between the two gauges which would explain the synchronized failure? Or is this total coincidence? This one is outside my experience, so don't know where to start. It's a 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual, base model truck, about 150k, generally runs just fine. There are no other gauges, and I don't recall what warning lights there might be, but I didn't see any after I realized there was a problem. Would the whole instrument cluster die at once, or could this be something like a bad ground for the cluster? I don't mind investing effort into tracking down and solving a problem, but if it needs a new cluster, that will cost more than I'd like to contribute, yet the problem occurred while I was using the truck (gently). My total use of this truck for all the times I've borrowed it is certainly less than 300 miles, so I'm reluctant to fund the entire repair if this is something that just comes with age.
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I recently bought an 87 Toyota corolla fx 16 as I totaled out my other car hitting a deer when I test drove this car I had no issues on this car it had high miles at 197k but it seemed to purr like a kitten it wasn't until I started to drive it back and forth to work that I noticed the issue when the car is cold it runs and idles fine a little bit of shift hesitation but figured that might be a dirty transmission filter as the fluid appeared discolored however when the car warms up it shifts fine and begins to cut out and the Rpms dip under 1k every 20-30 seconds.
It becomes worse when the car is in gear driving down the road it randomly cuts out and seems to lose power while occasionally backfiring and if I come to a stop and leave it in gear it will die if I don't feather the throttle just right on takeoff or press it to the floor when I press it to the floor it's slow on take off and sounds like a mix of backfiring and missing and then suddenly takes off like a bat out of hell once I hit about 20 mph. When it dies the check engine light comes on but as soon as I start it it goes back off. I've already changed a bunch of the routine stuff since the car sat for a year such as fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, coil, rotor, valve cover gaskets, and replaced nearly all the vacuum lines trying to figure it out thinking its something simple.
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What can I do to fix this? 1987 Supra. No brake lights go on when I press on the brake, including the middle light. Tail lights do work, but no brake lights. It has been somewhat intermittent as well...
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Just bought for around town. Problem with starting. Turn ignition and sometimes hear grind. Second try in neutral and she starts right up. I don't know if it's problem with key ignition/coil, or the starter.
Also need to convert a/c, fan ok but no cooling. Is this major cost to convert?
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I was driving home from campus yesterday, and as I approached about 50mph, the Celica suddenly revved into higher RPMs, all the while slowing down. I pushed the gas pedal, which only worsened the problem. I was able to limp the car home. About an hour later, I tested the car again, and the problem remains: Accelerate to about 35-50, then get high RPMs while the car slows down and jumps forward.
I suspect a transmission problem, accentuated by a loose wheel bearing that I haven't been able to afford to get fixed yet. My Celica is an automatic, with about 213000 miles on it.
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My 1987 Toyota 4Runner 22RE has a weird cold starting issue. When the temperature is in the low 30s F or below I have to use the gas pedal when I first start it (for only a few seconds) in order to make the starter disengage. If I don't push the gas pedal it chugs at around 250 RPM and the starter remains engaged. If I kick in a little more gas (up to about 1,500 RPM) the starter will immediately disengage and then it runs just fine at around 800 - 900 RPM.
When it's warm out (40 F or higher) it starts up and runs perfectly without any of the aforementioned happening.
Maybe related is the following: when the weather is warmer out this SOMETIMES happens: the engine idles too high (1,100+, sometimes up to 1,700). If I "kick" the gas pedal this usually knocks the idle back down but not to 750 - 800 where is should be.
I have thought about replacing the (I think it's called) idle air control valve (the big metal thing with the flappy gate inside) that sits atop the air intake above the driver's side headlight I want to replace this only if it's going to fix it.
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I got a 87 Toyota Celica 1600 GT, with a TVIS 4A-GE engine in.
My problem: when i just start the engine cold, it revs to 2500 RPM, and stays there for 1-2 minuttes and then falling to about 1500 RPM, and when the engine is completely warm my idle is about 1000 RPM.
first i think that 2500 RPM cold is a bit to much, and i dont know what to do with it. but my biggest problem is when the engine is fully warmed up, and i rev it to lets say 3000 RPM and then lets the gas of, the engine falls to about 500 RPM sometimes it stalls but if it not stalls then it would slowly gain some RPM and then it goes up to 1000 RPM again.
How can i prevent the engine falling that much when i let the gas off? it's quite annoying when i drive the car and comes to a stop it sometimes stall.
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5.0L V-8, Electronic Fuel Injection, 79,000 miles, 2 WD, 4 speed manual. I'm the original owner.
If I drive it 4-5 miles on secondary streets (25-40 MPH) it shuts off without warning after 10 minutes and will not restart without a 20-30 minute wait. If I drive it 2-3 miles and park it for a couple of minutes it will not restart without waiting 20-30 minutes. Checked engine water temp gauge and it is normal.
The local mechanics found no spark when it failed at their garage. They replaced the ignition module on distributor. This did not fix the problem. In their second attempt they replaced the coil. Still the same problems persists and the mechanics are stumped.
It's like something in ignition package heats up after 10 minutes and either sticks open causing no spark or closes shorting out the spark if that is possible. What is causing this and how to fix it.
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I'm driving my mom's 1987 Chevy Spectrum, which has about 190,000 miles on it. The Check Engine light comes on daily, but only when I'm driving uphill. The Chevy dealer says because the car is so old, it will take several hundred MORE bucks to find out what the codes mean. Doesn't seem to matter how full the gas tank is, or how steep the hill is. Other than this light, she just keeps going and going. Do I need to track down the cause? Might there be other symptoms that would diagnose it that I'm unaware of?
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So I bought my 1987 F150 XLT 4X4 (4spd) about two weeks ago and haven't had any issues with it so far... until now. As soon as I got it I did a full tune up. Changed plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, new battery, sea foamed it, fuel filter, ran a bottle of fuel stabilizer through it, new pvc valve, cleaned the throttle body, oil change, etc., ( all the usual things).
Was running fine up until two days ago when I was driving down the highway doing about 90km/hr in 4th when the truck suddenly lost power, sputtered and died. Tried to start it again and it will turn over but not start. So I get a nice expensive tow home and start to diagnose the problem. It is not a fuel issue. I can hear the pumps coming on, and fuel is coming out of the fuel filter so I cross that off the list.
Next I check for spark. No spark at all. So I run some tests. Battery is putting out 12V, about 10 when cranking. The solenoid is getting power and putting out power. No visible damage to any of the wiring, and all the grounds look good.
Next I just went ahead and swapped out the coil thinking that could be the issue. Didn't work. So I preform some more tests on the old and new coils. Both are grounded and having voltage pass through them. Next I take the TFI module off the distributor and check for resistance. Everything still checks out fine. Now I am thinking that the only thing left could be the PIP in the distributor. So instead of taking the dist apart and screwing around I go ahead a get a brand new dist and throw it in.
Now I am stoked and thinking that I finally fixed my truck and go to start it up and.... no spark. It still turns over but no start. I am trying to provide every bit of detail that I can. When I say I tested all the components I mean I REALLY tested them. I did both tests from the Haynes manual and from various sources off this site.
I am almost at the point of getting it towed to the shop, which I really do not want to do. A day before this happened I degreased the engine and VERY carefully sprayed it off with water. In the process I am thinking I may have damaged something?
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Recently, today in my 87 Ranger suddenly the engine dies and all electronics in the cab fail.
I noticed under the hood that the fusible link connected to the battery and an orange and black wire was smoking. Tracing this line i found that it leads to the ignition switch, as well as some other places.
There is another fusible link and the junction between the yellow ignition wire and the orange and black wire from the battery. This fusible link also was failed.
I'm planning on replacing the fusible links tomorrow but in case that does not fix it, where to look next.
The problem only occurs when the key is in the ON position. I'm thinking maybe I could do some tests with a multimeter on the ignition switch but am not sure of the details of what I should test for.
Summary: Fusible Links C, and E burn out when the ignition is in the ON position.
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My 87 lesabre has run great for many years, but lately, it has been quitting on me. It happens randomly, usually while driving slower or idling. It just suddenly quits almost as if it's out of gas. It usually starts right back up, sometimes have to wait 20-30 seconds. It runs fine, not sluggish or anything, up until it quits. Had a couple mechanics look at it, when I told one about it he thought for sure it was going to be the fuel injectors but they all checked out fine.
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1987 ranger 2.9l 4wd 5 SPD ... I just replaced plugs wires distributer cap and rotor and pcv valve and hose. It drives fine for about 3 minutes and then it looses all power and I can't get out of 2nd gear. It idles fine all day long. The guy I bought it from said he put a new tank and pump on it.
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