Toyota - Matrix :: Tachometer Usually Bouncing Between Zero And About 4k
Jan 27, 2014
I drive a 2007 Toyota Matrix, automatic, 111K. My check engine light is on, but I haven't had it check because it frequently comes on and off for the evap sensor in the gas cap.
a few months ago all of a sudden the tachometer would move around very erratically. it started the first weekend that it was really cold here, and has since come and gone. At the times when it's not working, when i start the car the tachometer will usually hang at zero for a while and then begin to flail around usually bouncing between zero and about 4k. Occasionally it will make it all the way to the highest range of the gauge, 8k, and jump around there for a while. Then without any trend that I've noticed all of a sudden it will function correctly. There are also times when it works fine the entire time from the time I start the engine.
Another disturbing piece is that about a month ago my temperature gauge joined in and will now remain at zero the entire time the tachometer is flailing about and then when simultaneously they will begin working normally.
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My '92 Integra has ~280K miles. A couple of years ago the tachometer started "bouncing" up and down while the engine seemed to run fine. Some time after, it started to hesitate under acceleration. A few months ago the car died while driving along the highway. The tachometer went up and down as the engine cut off and came back on before finally dying. A tow to the repair shop lead to a tune up, changing of spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and the ignition coil. That got the car running again, with its usual erratic tach and hesitation on acceleration. Then, the car died again in a similar way while driving. I was found to have a dead battery. Replacing it got the car running again...but the tach is still erratic and the car still hesitates. I am concerned that there is still some underlying issue that has not been fixed. I sometimes think it is a loose connection because there are times when the car seems just fine, but that is happening less frequently.
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The problem began a year ago when the car would randomly lose power while hubby was driving it, and then regain power almost immediately and continue to move forward. Weird. Fast forward a year and the problem is happening more frequently. Couple that with the car taking a lonnnnng time to start up in the morning. One day, it ceases to start altogether. Had a mechanic friend of ours look at it and tell us we need a new fuel pump. Okay, no problem. We paid him for the pump and he installed it. Before I could dance a victory dance, though, as hubby turned the key....the car still won't start. Mechanic buddy takes another look at the car and said the ECM is cracked and needs replacement. Looked it up online and ECM is covered under safety recall. Had car towed to the dealership, waited 2 weeks on ECM replacement, dealer called us up to let us know that....the car still won't start, and looks like we need a new fuel pump.
Mechanic friend took another look at it and said it looks like a bad connection between the pump and made an adjustment to it. The car works! Sort of. Car starts acting funny again. We're driving along and the car is losing/gaining/losing/gaining power, tachometer goes up and down, we hear a funny clicking coming from the dash area every time the car loses power. Last night, the car just refused to start. This morning, it started. After several attempts. Made that fun "verr-verr-verr-verr-verr-verr" sound without the "-rooom" at the end. Since my knowledge of fuel pumps and their casings, ECMs, and the like are limited to this situation, I'd love to know what's REALLY going on with the car. I have a suspicion that it goes beyond the fuel pump situation, but mechanic friend thinks it is the casing or something like that.
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In the last six months I've occasionally seen both the tach and the speedometer slowly peg when I start in the morning. My mechanic says to not worry about it but I do. The car is a 2005 Toyota ECHO with manual transmission.
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
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Ok I have a 2007 Toyota Matrix and today I switched the radio when I finished the radio and the car clock stay on once I turn off the car even when the key is out both the radio and car clock stay.
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I rented a 2010 Toyota Matrix with 29,000 miles from Hertz Rent2Buy and noticed rust in the engine compartment screw heads, hose clamps, battery clamp, and on top of the shock housing. The pipe before the muffler has it also. The inside smells fine and the car runs fine. I ran an autocheck report and nothing bad came up. I took it to a local Midas shop for a visual courtesy check and they said it looked fine and that it could have been from humidity or rain if hood was open. The car was registered originally in FL and then mostly in PA. Is this rust normal or should I be concerned?
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check engine light came on. Had the code checked and its the code that comes on whhen you dont tighten your cap. Checked fuel cap and the person noticed that the little spring loaded door that is usually pushed open by the fuel nozzle is gone. So my question is three fold:
1) will this door that is now in my gas tank hurt my car?
2) will this lack of door keep tripping this error code? i live in the Milwaukee area where they check emissions so i cant have that
3) how much is this going to be to fix? I am guessing they can just replace the door or the top part of the fueling system where I put the nozzle in.
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The guy at the muffler place says I have a cracked exhaust manifold. He also says he can't get the parts after holiday. I'm supposed to drive, with my family for holidays. The muffler guy says that should be fine - highway driving will generate enough airflow to keep us from all dying of CO asphyxiation.
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I am having a shifting issue with our 2007 Toyota Matrix (85k mi) 5 speed manual, but only when shifting from 3 to 4 and only when shifting quickly. For a week now when I need to shift quickly from 3 to 4 (such as accelerating when merging onto a highway) if I don't pause in neutral for a half second to a second I get some resistance going into 4th. There is no gear grinding noise just difficulty to put it in and then finally it gives. My wife describes it as a "ka-chunk" feel ... I'm afraid it will cost me a lot for a new transmission if that is what is causing the issue, but I've also read it might be a clutch or fluid level issue.
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I have a 03 Matrix and my AC compressor does not stay on long enough to cool the car. In cool weather (less than 80 degrees), on the highway, the AC works well enough if I have it on high. When the weather heats up or when the car is sitting still, the AC doesn't work at all. Today, it was in the 90s and I got an occasional cool breeze from it, when the car was moving.
When observing the pump, I see it kick on briefly then quickly turn off. It's off much more than on, when the car is sitting still. The coolant pressure is charged and I tried swapping the relay. For a time, it was making some noise. I would kind of make a rapid dove sound when running and a fart sound when shutting off. I didn't notice that happening today though.
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My 2005 Toyota matrix started having a lazy start as soon as I had the timing belt changed, and has even failed to start then gone back to lazy starting routine. Is changing the timing belt likely to corrupt the engine timing? Should the mechanic have checked the timing as part of the belt replacement job?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix. About 130,000 miles and bought used from a dealer at about 20,000 miles. Was probably sitting on lot several months I get a rumble like going over rumble strips as I am accelerating, most often between 40 and 50 miles an hour, but regularly when I am driving over a distance at about 175 on the RPM gauge. It does not happen when I am accelerating consistently through that range. When it happens I can accelerate through it to stop it or it stops if I let off the accelerator. Dealer can't figure it out. Have checked wheel balance. Told me they will figure it out when it gets worse - very useful. Said they could do a transmission fluid service but no promises. They do a repair that would fix it that didn't fix it. A friend has suggested tire rods may be failing. Been going on several months and I have learned to pretty much drive to avoid the rumble but still worried the entire drive train is going to fall off the car one day.
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Now that the weather is cooling, and my windows are down, I am noticing an odd sound seemingly from the left rear of our Matrix. It is a fairly high (but indeterminately) pitched, sustained jingling or rattling. Somewhat like I am dragging a very light chain behind the car, or scraping a light metal rod along very finely corrugated, but thick (high pitched) metal. Or maybe like a really lousy triangle. It starts and stops unpredictably, but with changes: it may start or stop with the application of brakes or gas, or may do so randomly. I think. I have not been able to discern a consistent pattern.
We are about to take a short weekend road trip. Should I be very worried?
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My 2009 Toyota Matrix will turn over but wont start. I cant figure out what is causing this. So far I have replaced the battery ( Just in case ) I checked the spark plugs , they are good , If I try and start it a couple of times I can sometimes get it to start but its really rough sounding and dies instantly even if I give it gas. I also hear the fuel pump engaging so I don't think that is it. I put 5 gallons of premium gas in the tank just to make sure she didn't get some bad gas since she was almost on empty. I am lost at what to do now.
I just went over 60k miles so no warranty anymore.
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My engine just went out in my 2009 Corolla XRS. What vehicles have the same engine as a 2009 Corolla XRS 2.4L manual transmission?
Also, what would it take to put in the 1.8L engine? Would it bolt straight up? Would I need a new ecu/wiring harness/mounts/exhaust/trans etc?
I am considering putting in a rebuilt or used transmission at the same time because my syncros were failing.
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I am going to change the coolant in my 2009 corolla 1.8L. The service manual instructions tell me to open the "cylinder block drain cock plug" and I can't find it. The picture in the manual is not very clear, but it points to a spot on the engine just above the throttle body.
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Bought this car new and really haven't had any major issues until the last month. It's a 2003, six-speed, inline 4, 1.8L engine. When I came to a stop, the engine just died and would not restart until I let it "rest" for a couple of minutes. It restarted and ran fine. This same thing happened again a week or so later.
Then, just yesterday, I was doing about 65 on the interstate and the engine died, tach dropped to 0, but I didn't lose power steering or brakes. I was coasting for a few seconds and the engine came back. When I slowed down to pull into a parking garage, it died but I was coasting enough to pop the clutch and it restarted for a moment allowing me to almost get into a parking stall. As I slowed to get into the stall it died completely and had to be pushed into the stall.
I left it there for a few hours. When I got back, it started and ran fine. I feel this is just the beginning of some problem with the electronic control module/unit.
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We purchased a certified pre-owned 2009 Toyota Matrix (S--AWD) in January 2012, with approx 17K miles (a lease turn in). We purchased a platinum vehicle service plan that covers the car through 2017 or 100K miles. We had the oil changed at 22K miles (May 2012) per the recommended 5K miles at a private garage, not a Toyota dealer. This place had done work on my previous vehicle, a 1994 Corolla, for 6 years and had proven to be reliable and trustworthy, in my opinion.
Last Friday, my husband was driving our daughter to daycare, and 5 miles from our home, the oil and engine lights came on in close succession, and the engine seized and died. We had roadside assistance through the warranty, and it was towed to the nearest Toyota dealer, which is not the one we purchased the vehicle at. They informed me that the car had no oil filter and that therefore nothing that happened to the car was covered under warranty, and said it was clearly the fault of whomever had changed the oil.
Problem: The oil had been changed 4 months, and 4K miles before this happened.Problem: There is no evidence of an oil leak in our garage, our driveway, the driveway at my workplace: There is no evidence of a catastrophic oil dump along the 5 mile route before the car died: We cannot find an oil filter along this path either, we have been along it on bicycle looking in the weeds
So the car was in our garage with no oil leaking at 6:45 am, and somehow ended up out of oil, with no filter, in 5 miles, by 7 am. The car had been driving fine--I am the one who usually drives it. I actually drove it 80 miles on Tuesday b.c I had forgotten my laptop at home and had to make the trip to and from work twice (22 miles one way). Then my husband had Weds-Fri off and it was driven 12 miles to and from daycare on Weds and Thurs, and the 5 miles on Friday before it died. No lights were on when I drove it Tuesday, and he says no lights were on before the point that it died.
The guy who changed the oil says the he cannot see how they are at fault, b.c there is no way the car could go so far and so long with an improperly installed filter (it is the screw in style filter, not a cartridge), and that if it were loose, as soon as the seal was broken, oil would spray everywhere. He went and looked at the car at the dealer, and looked at the spot where the car broke down and said there is not enough oil there. There is about enough in spots that would cover an area around a foot in diameter. Toyota says it could have been a slow leak if it was not screwed on right--but where is the evidence for an oil leak? Shouldn't the oil light have gone off previously if oil was low? The oil change guy says there's no way there would be a slow leak, the oil would have all dumped out and killed the engine long before the filter somehow fell off. He keeps asking me where is the oil, and where is the filter? Which I would love to have the answers to those questions, but I don't. He says unless I can produce the filter to show it is the one he put in, and that it is banged up to show it came off the car, he won't pursue an insurance claim. Toyota says it sounds weird but since he is the last one that touched the car, it's his fault. Right now we are in the middle and it is looking like we are going to be stuck with the bill for a new engine.
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My 2004 Toyota Matrix has been making a rattling/chattering noise when I accelerate. I took it to a shop (in nyc, where I live) who said it is a problem with the bearings and that my best bet is to replace the engine with a used one. He quoted me about $2500, parts and labor included. Also, he said it doesn't really make sense to try to rebuild the engine - better to replace it.
Does this cost/analysis make sense? I know nothing about car repair, but a bit of googling does seem to confirm that this is a problem with the bearings (particularly the rod bearings?).
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We have a 2005 toyota matrix with 152k miles. In the heat of the afternoon, or after driving 25-30 min the car begins to shutter. Slight hiccups when at speed, then stalls if idling, like at a stop light of the exit ramp. It starts right up, then dies when put in drive. We have taken it to toyota, TWICE. On the second trip, the car died on them and they still found nothing. The check engine light is not on. There are no fault codes. Toyota said replace the spark plugs, which I did. Still has same issue. The ECM was replaced under warranty a couple years ago.
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