2003 Toyota Matrix with 217,000 miles (most on a rural mail route). Check engine light stays on with readings for multiple misfires, all four coils (which have all been replaced) and just replaced fuel pump. Gas mileage has plummeted.
View 16 RepliesI have been through 7 fuel pumps in the last 9 months. I purchased the car 1 1/2 years ago with 95000mi from an elderly lady, pulled the car fax and it had no issues and had been back to the dealer every 3000 for every scheduled maintenance and minor routine maintenance. It is a 2001 SES DOHC 24valve.
9 months ago, the fuel pump died right next to the Ford dealer. It had been randomly quitting on me after I would shut it off for a month or so. Then I would hear it priming and knew it would start. Finally, it just wouldn't start after an hour of trying. Of course, the next morning it did.
Took it to Ford, and it wouldn't do it for them, but they thought it sounded like a fuel pump problem. The next 3 pumps they put in wouldn't register a full tank and would indicate that I was low on gas about 50-60 miles before it should, and when filling it, would only take 12 gallons of gas in the 18 gal tank.
The dealer checked the amount left in the tank and verified that it was an 18 gal tank ( which I already knew) when changing to #4 and finally agreed with me that something was amiss. They thought that maybe # 4 would be better because it came from a different place in a different box. These were all supposed to be genuine motorcraft parts.
The next 4 pumps registered a full tank and I was getting about 300 miles before the check fuel light would come on and would take 15.5-16 gal of gas to fill, which was normal. The problem was that they all died after about 600-700 miles. The dealer said they talked to Ford and they kept telling them the same things to check which they did and were all okay. Things like resistance connections. The last pump #7 failed early in the day and still wouldn't start the next day, but did start after getting it towed to Ford. The dealer attempted to order #8, but Ford had put a hold on all the pumps they had in stock. So either they weren't shipping anymore for me or there was a much widespread problem. They installed a Carquest pump this time. This one doesn't register the right fuel in it either. Not as bad as 1-3, but I am getting about 35-40 miles less than I should before the check fuel light comes on and it is taking about 14 gal to fill.
What Ford may be missing when they change these out that I might pass on? They probably wouldn't listen anyway as it took the first 3 before they actually measured the fuel still in the tank even though I had been telling them it wasn't right.
If # 8 works, should I just live with it not showing a full tank, at least it is working. Either way I am afraid to drive the car to anywhere but work and even that is kind of nerve wracking.
At least the pump has been under warranty every time to I get a loaner and they fix for free, but I want it fixed right!
I have a 2007 Honda Fit that seems to misfire when idling both in park and drive. It occurs with the A/C on and off. We have changed the plugs and all coils and it continues. This car has 56,000 miles, the problem started at about 40,000 miles.
View 15 Replies It has been a while. My 2000 2wd 5.4 Ex has developed a issue and I'm going to say it is the fuel pump. It was right before Christmas and I went out and the truck would not start. I panicked and remembered the relay. It pressed it, it clicked and off I went. Last week I was leaving work and it did the same thing but the relay was not tripped.
I got under it and rapped the tank a couple times with a rubber mallet and it fired up just fine. Went out this morning, super cold out and nothing. Rapped on the tank, nothing. Took the other car to work and came home, rapped on it again and nothing. The fuses are good but I'm sure it is the pump because I was able to hit the tank and start it.
My question is, any write up on removing the tank or a video? I like to see what i'm up against before I start to pull it. The bad thing for me is I have a little over half a tank of gas in it and no place to put it. This is going to be fun.
Replaced fuel pump and filter on our 2001 Nissan Quest. It started up for a few minutes but once it got hot it sputtered out. We sprayed some starter fluid in it. Still nothing.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 4.0 SOHC engine, I have had some cold start problems. I cleaned the IAC and the problem went away for a few months and then came back. Two days ago the temps got very cold and it would not start at all, I re-cleaned the IAC and still no start. I replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump and engine started right away. Now I have a rough idle, bad skip and bad exhaust odor. I am still thinking IAC but I am concerned that the aftermarket fuel pump is pumping to high pressure or that I may have crimped the return line. I have driven about 30 miles hoping the computer would make adjustments, still runs rough and the check engine light has not come on.
View 12 Replies2005 prius. the car is pulling three codes misfire cyl1, misfire cyl2, and multiple misfires. The car has over 450000 miles on it and runs like a dream. I just replaced they spark plugs and the coil packs in each cylinder. The cel codes are still there after clearing them. I am willing to replace the fuel injectors but just seems weird that two of them would go out like that together.
View 4 RepliesI know the ignition coil are a big thing but I'm going to be buying this car this week and so I need to see how much less to offer the guy because of this issue. Is there anything other then the ignition coil that it could be? What's worst case scenario? And also would it be ok to drive it home about 60 or so miles with this going on? I'm guessing it's doing the misfires at idle.
View 6 RepliesIt all started a few months ago.... I started my car, and it started noticeably misfiring, CEL flashing and everything. I scanned it with my vagcom and it came up Cylinder 1 Misfire and Random Multiple misfire. I popped the hood, made sure everything was seated correctly, and shrugged.
Ordered some new wires for it, since it had 80k miles on it with original wires, I figured why not. The misfire didn't come back.
A few weeks later, same thing happened. Misfires, flashing CEL, same codes. I ended up driving it the 5 minutes to work anyways and figured I'd look at it later after I got off.
8 hours later I started it up again, ran like a champ, no CEL on. The problem didn't come up again for 3-4 weeks.
So now, without fail, every month or so, I'll get the same issue. It doesn't matter if it's raining or sunny or cold or warm. But if I let it sit for a few hours, it'll act like it never happened.
Now, I haven't replaced the coil pack yet, simply because it doesn't sound like a coil problem, but I might do it just for the hell of it. New plugs and wires have already been done.
So I took a trip from Dallas to Florida, and on the way back my check engine light came on. The car shakes at idle, almost like it wants to take off. I drove it back to Dallas like that since the car runs normal on the high way. I got it scanned at autozone and the code said it had multiple random misfires. I'll be taking to the dealer in the morning, but what it could be? The car jumped over 50K during the trip hopefully the dealer will be nice and cover it.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 lc 1.5l ... I just rebuilt the motor machine shop work and all it Will start and run for 3 seconds and then die. If I hold the gas pedal it will run but sound rough and as soon as you let go it dies I have been able to get codes multiple misfires, misfire cylinder 1, misfire cylinder 2, and misfire cylinder 4 I have put brand new plugs (copper core ngk), wires coils, crank sensor, cam sensor, iac, tps, maf and the injectors all have new orings it also has ntk o2 sensors that might have 1000 miles on them...
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 Pontiac Grand Am GT 2.4L Quad 4, my problem is that it misfires and the engine runs rough. You can smell fuel, but there is no fuel leak. I have about 155k miles on the car, never had no serious issues with the car, the car has been great, I’ve owned it since early 2000. Little history on the parts I’ve replaced this year is the following spark plugs x3, spark plug boots x2, timing chain, Timing chain tensioner, camshaft positioning sensor, throttle positioning sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, air-intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, IAC, ignition coils, ignition coil housing, ignition coil wiring harness, swapped the Ignition control module, checked the fuel injectors for solenoid clicking, replaced water pump, thermostat, swapped EGR’s.
Maybe some other parts I can’t remember but I have done a lot trying to figure this out. Also took it to a garage and told them what I have done and the first place they looked was the fuel pump and said it tested at 20psi and called for 40-60psi so they replaced it and problem was still there. They had it for a week and half and couldn’t figure this problem out. Thinking about replacing the ignition coil housing again just to see maybe bought a bad one. Also done the three checks for head gasket blown, milky white oil, anti-freeze bubbling from the reservoir and compression check, all checked out fine. Ran gunk fuel injector cleaner through it several times.
My 2006 would not start today after I got gas. I drove the car for an hour with no problems. I then stopped to get gas it would not start. I knew the engine was still warm because i had just stopped after driving for an hour. yet the temp gauge read cold. After a while of trying to start the car with it only cranking, not turning over I waited. After waiting a while the temp gauge started to work again showing a warm engine. The engine was also warm to the touch. I tried to start the car once the temp Gauge worked again and the car turned over with no problems and little effort.
View 11 RepliesMy old pump wasnt building pressure so i put a new filter on and i switched wit a used one from an old car i had.key on engine off Pressure goes to 45 then instantly starts droppin? Once i turn key an do again same thing... Car is starting tho. fuel Pressure around 38 while idling. I pulled fuel rail up and looked for leakin injectors.. There was none yet pressure still bled down kinda quick. I also have my cat aloose to keep from messing it up any further. Only codes keep showing is po300 multiple misfires.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 1.8T Passat. I bought it used recently and have had tons of problems. I have been getting a lean air code for some time now and I think I recently resolved that. I had to replace a few vacuum lines, MAF, exhaust flex pipe (it was broken), fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. The car was still running bad and throwing a lean air code (Bank 1) so I finally changed the O2 sensor and I think that did the trick. Now every time I start the car I get misfires until is warms up. I get misfires on all cylinders along with the multiple misfire code.
View 5 RepliesGetting multiple CEL's for the catalytic converters and cylinder misfires. Looking for threads that address these particular codes ie. 0431, 0421, 0300. 0303, 0306. I have a feeling that these are being caused from a vacuum leak and/or needing a reflash for the ECU.
View 3 RepliesMy daughter has a 2003 Passat Turbo. Two weeks ago it started to run like crap with a check engine light on. I pulled the codes and it said multiple misfires. My buddy owns his own shop and said bring it down. He pulled the plugs and the spark plug holes were filled with oil. He changed the valve cover gaskets and replaced the plugs. Still ran rough with low fuel pressure so he replace the fuel pump and injectors. Still runs rough, when he pulled the air intake off there was oil in it. Could this have happened do to the valve cover gasket? The codes still read misfires. He said the turbo was full of oil also. Could the turbo be bad causing it to run like crap? Can it be rebuilt? I really don't want to go to the dealer.
View 5 RepliesI am trying to get a 2009 Sonata NF with a 3.3L V6 to run correctly and i have tried everything that i can find and still get the problem. The car runs very rich with a strong gas smell. The engine runs rough but doesn't stall. The car has has period where it runs fine and then the issue returns but is in more frequent and steady now. The car will run for the first 5 minutes great if it is cold and it also runs good at full throttle and the check engine light went off during hard acceleration which seems consistent with getting too much fuel. I bought a BlueDriver to read the codes and I love the data it provides but I am learning all the features.
For a little history the car has 95,250 miles. At 81157 miles the check engine light came on and an independent shop replaced the downstream O2 sensor and the light has been off for 2 years until coming back on recently. The code showing was a P0300. The shop replaced spark plugs and the manifold gasket with and oil change for $775. The check engine light stayed off for about a month and 550 miles. The car was taken back to the shop and they replaced the rear O2 sensor for $429 . The check engine light was off for a couple of days and then returned with the P0300. It might go a couple of days without a problem and then it would return.
This is when I got the car and started reading all the forums i could for possible causes. I saw the Tech Bulletin on the Variable Valve Timing Oil Control Solenoids so i replaced both valves. The check engine light returned with a P0303 for cylinder 3 misfire so i figured it was a coil so i replaced all the coils. The P0300 code returned. I check fuel pressure after seeing a post about fuel pressure regulators causing the problem but the pressure was correct. I changed the Mass Flow Sensor figuring it was getting too much gas but no improvement. I bought the BlueDriver so I could see more than just the codes. The O2 sensor looked erratic so i changed the front upper O2 sensor.
I found the Tech Bulletin about the O2 sensors fuel trim readings and realized there was an upper sensor on the back manifold and it was reading -18% so i changed it and now I don't know which way to go. I currently have the P0303 code confirmed and P0300 pending. With the live data the items that looked strange at idle were O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 steady at 99.2% and Calculated Engine Load a 21.6%. The freeze frame data from when the light came on has all the short fuel trim at 0.0% and long term at -0.8% for both banks. Calculated Engine Load was 45.9% even though I was trying to drive slowly at 29 mph. Mass Air was 21.71 g/s, I had been running 3 minutes from a slightly warm start, Absolute engine load was 44.3%. Anything else to check or data I should look at?
Had codes come up for ignition Coils twice. Car shook for all the way home. Replaced that coil 2. Second time shook for just a little bit. Codes for coil 2 snd 4. replaced all the Rear ones and the one front one that thru other code and all spark plugs. 2 weeks later I get Engine control malfunction, multiple misfires? Wife said happened when driving and didn't feel anything. Ignition control box bad?
View 7 RepliesAfter replacing the fuel filter, O2 sensor, and checking plugs and wires and the rotor, my 91 toyota corolla is still sputtering and its driving me nuts.
View 1 RepliesWhere the fuel pump relay is in Corolla 2010 le?
View 8 Replies