Toyota - Matrix :: 2010 - Rust Under The Hood
Jan 22, 2012
I rented a 2010 Toyota Matrix with 29,000 miles from Hertz Rent2Buy and noticed rust in the engine compartment screw heads, hose clamps, battery clamp, and on top of the shock housing. The pipe before the muffler has it also. The inside smells fine and the car runs fine. I ran an autocheck report and nothing bad came up. I took it to a local Midas shop for a visual courtesy check and they said it looked fine and that it could have been from humidity or rain if hood was open. The car was registered originally in FL and then mostly in PA. Is this rust normal or should I be concerned?
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I park in a parking garage for work. A rusted pipe leaked on to my car hood for a while apparently and now my hood is rusted. I took it to a body shop down the street and the serviceman said I needed to repaint and reseal the hood and front bumper.
I went to my garage ownership and complained and they said they will take care of it and gave me a number to call. The repairman made it sound like he wants to just "buff it out".
I'm not a car expert by any means. Does this seem like a "cheap" fix and should I argue more with my garage?
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I got a small rust spot on a corner of the hood of my car (5 months old). The 3 year/36,000 mile paint warranty included with the purchase of the Elantra should take care of this, correct? It's small so I was gonna sand it down myself and use a touch-up pen, but now having second thoughts. Should I take it to the dealership instead?
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Picked up my new 2013 Sonata GL 3-weeks ago. Noticed a little surface rust on the front struts when I picked it up and when I was washing it for the first time last week I saw a rust spot where the chrome trim mounts on the hood. I removed the trim and took these photos...
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My 1999 Subaru Legacy has a couple of rust holes in the hood. Unfortunately it's from the back and not easily fixed without welding.
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So, after washing my car, I noticed something orange/brown between my rear bumper and rear fender... it's rust. So, what should I do? I know it will only spread but since it's on the rear quaterpanel, it's not easily replaceable unless I cut the metal or sand it down and repaint it. Should I go to the dealer and see what they say?
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I have a 2013 Corolla. I have what looks like a rust stain appearing on the headliner starting over the drivers side sun shade and ends by the rearview mirror this seemed to have just started and I checked for water leaks and there appears to be none as far as I can tell and the liner doesn't get wet.
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I have a Matrix XR 2010 with front bumper sporty look . I like to change the front bumper to regular bumper and the reason is that for the last two winter seasons I have broken the spoilers and basically wreck the bumper.
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It's hot and humid here in Illinois. Yesterday my wife was driving early in the morning with the AC on, and the windshield was fogging up on the outside. A pattern of spots showed up, and they persist after the wipers pass over the glass. They don't show up when the glass is dry, but on washing with windex they show up as the surface approaches dry.
Are these waterspots? Are they something else, like wax or oil? This is a 2010 matrix which we bought used about a month ago, so I don't know its car-washing-history, but it resided in Florida as a rental, I believe.
Or is there something else possible? Can the glass have gotten "de-laminated" enough to have some internal fogging?
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I just purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla with Airbag Light ON (not blinking). Yes car was in an accident, but Air Bags did not deployed as per the seller. It needs to re-calibrate by Dealer.
As a novice, and avid Toyota person, since it's a good deal I decided to take the car with the airbag lights on. I have seen on youtube, the cause is likely the spiral cable.
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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While driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
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I recently took my 2010 Corolla CE to my dealership and had some minor work done on the brakes (rust cap cleaned, calipers machined as well)
The new problem now is that I hear a ticking sound while driving as if something is touching.. The Technician at Toyota said there was still 70% on the pads and 80% left on the rear shoes.. Encountered a ticking sound while driving along?
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Starting somewhere in the course of a 400 mile drive yesterday, my car developed a new sound. It sounds like something is either vibrating against something else or some little chunk of plastic is bouncing around in the engine somewhere. At first I thought it was a piece of the bumper or trim dragging on the road, but it's not. You hear it when the car starts, when the car gets gas, and even when the engine is idling. It's not a constant sound, but it's there more often then it is not. It's there at high and low speeds. It's there whether the engine is warm or dead cold. To my untrained eye, there's nothing out of order when I look under the hood. It doesn't seem to impact performance (yet!).
I'm attaching a link to a video of me taking a drive around the block this morning: [URL] ....
2010 Toyota Matrix with 72k miles....
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I drive a 2010 Toyota Corolla, 1.8L vehicle. We recently went on vacation to Colorado and somewhere around Fairplay, CO, which is about 9500 feet above sea level, our relatively new car with only about 47K just died in the middle of the road where there was not shoulder or cell phone service. I pulled over the best I could and popped the hood after several attempts to restart to no avail. I removed the decorative plastic engine cover and looked at it long enough to realize I did not know anything to do or try, reinstalled the cover and closed the hood. I was then able to restart the car and go a little further.
It did happen to us one more time and again after a few minutes on the side of the road with the hood open I was able to start it. I was very surprised that there was no check engine light when I was able to restart the car. I would expect if the engine just dies in the middle of driving that it would at least produce a code where I could have some idea of what was going on. I have read about vapor lock, but it sounds like it is more likely to happen on older cars with a carburetor and with the fuel pump under the hood instead of in the fuel tank. Should I try higher octane fuel?
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My son's 2010 Toyota Corolla S made a "rattling ticking sound at idle" twice this week.
I can't duplicate it, the oil level is fine and everything is working.
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My 2010 Toyota Corolla caught fire IN THE RAIN yesterday ( Jan 9, 2014) while I was driving ..... I was lucky to get out of the car before the fire came in the passenger compartment.... Trying to find out a way to see if this has happened to other Toyotas....
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I don't expect many people to still be running OEM radios, but having issues with the stock radio? My girlfriend left town yesterday, and on the 3 hour drive, she said her radio just shuts off. Sometimes, when its on, the volume controls wont work, etc. W the model number for the stock 2010 Toyota Corolla S touch screen OEM stereo?
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I recently bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla. I have been having some issues with the A/C. The A/C seems to work fine when the car is moving but when it is idle it gets warmer. I have recently gotten the freon checked and they put in some more but that didn't work, same problem still happening. Somebody told me that i need a extra fan which didn't make sense to me. Last resort will be to take it to the dealership to have them check. Once again the A/C blows cold air when the car is going over 50 MPH.
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I am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
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Having problem with 2010 Toyota Corolla. Engine light comes on as well as VSC and traction control but the engine does not shut off. I loose power and engine runs really rough. I have to pull over and unplug my battery cable and the problem is gone until a week or two later same thing happens. My gas mileage is about 10 km for every 100KM city and Highway mix. The engine idle is also rough and sometimes when I try to do a U turn or get in and out of parking the engine shuts off.
Engine scanned shows P0010 and it could be three or for causes? My problem is that mechanics change one thing which costs an arm and a leg then if that did not fix the problem they say now lets change another part? I can not afford to fix them one by one and get charged for it as they replace one part at a time.
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