Toyota - Matrix :: 2009 - Engine Seized And Died
Oct 2, 2012
We purchased a certified pre-owned 2009 Toyota Matrix (S--AWD) in January 2012, with approx 17K miles (a lease turn in). We purchased a platinum vehicle service plan that covers the car through 2017 or 100K miles. We had the oil changed at 22K miles (May 2012) per the recommended 5K miles at a private garage, not a Toyota dealer. This place had done work on my previous vehicle, a 1994 Corolla, for 6 years and had proven to be reliable and trustworthy, in my opinion.
Last Friday, my husband was driving our daughter to daycare, and 5 miles from our home, the oil and engine lights came on in close succession, and the engine seized and died. We had roadside assistance through the warranty, and it was towed to the nearest Toyota dealer, which is not the one we purchased the vehicle at. They informed me that the car had no oil filter and that therefore nothing that happened to the car was covered under warranty, and said it was clearly the fault of whomever had changed the oil.
Problem: The oil had been changed 4 months, and 4K miles before this happened.Problem: There is no evidence of an oil leak in our garage, our driveway, the driveway at my workplace: There is no evidence of a catastrophic oil dump along the 5 mile route before the car died: We cannot find an oil filter along this path either, we have been along it on bicycle looking in the weeds
So the car was in our garage with no oil leaking at 6:45 am, and somehow ended up out of oil, with no filter, in 5 miles, by 7 am. The car had been driving fine--I am the one who usually drives it. I actually drove it 80 miles on Tuesday b.c I had forgotten my laptop at home and had to make the trip to and from work twice (22 miles one way). Then my husband had Weds-Fri off and it was driven 12 miles to and from daycare on Weds and Thurs, and the 5 miles on Friday before it died. No lights were on when I drove it Tuesday, and he says no lights were on before the point that it died.
The guy who changed the oil says the he cannot see how they are at fault, b.c there is no way the car could go so far and so long with an improperly installed filter (it is the screw in style filter, not a cartridge), and that if it were loose, as soon as the seal was broken, oil would spray everywhere. He went and looked at the car at the dealer, and looked at the spot where the car broke down and said there is not enough oil there. There is about enough in spots that would cover an area around a foot in diameter. Toyota says it could have been a slow leak if it was not screwed on right--but where is the evidence for an oil leak? Shouldn't the oil light have gone off previously if oil was low? The oil change guy says there's no way there would be a slow leak, the oil would have all dumped out and killed the engine long before the filter somehow fell off. He keeps asking me where is the oil, and where is the filter? Which I would love to have the answers to those questions, but I don't. He says unless I can produce the filter to show it is the one he put in, and that it is banged up to show it came off the car, he won't pursue an insurance claim. Toyota says it sounds weird but since he is the last one that touched the car, it's his fault. Right now we are in the middle and it is looking like we are going to be stuck with the bill for a new engine.
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My engine just went out in my 2009 Corolla XRS. What vehicles have the same engine as a 2009 Corolla XRS 2.4L manual transmission?
Also, what would it take to put in the 1.8L engine? Would it bolt straight up? Would I need a new ecu/wiring harness/mounts/exhaust/trans etc?
I am considering putting in a rebuilt or used transmission at the same time because my syncros were failing.
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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While driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
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There is no problem starting the car- it always turns over immediately, but every 1 out of 7 - 10 cold starts includes a strange noise from the engine compartment. Just as I let go from the crank position, I hear a sound similar to that of playing cards being shuffled. The duration of the noise is just a second or two, just like the time it takes to shuffle once.
It never has happened when the car is still warm. I had the Toyota dealer look at it, but they couldn't reproduce the noise- not surprising, since I didn't leave the car overnight, and even if I had, it still would be unlikely to happen when needed. The noise has been happening for a year or so, and it doesn't seem to increase or decrease in frequency due to air temperature or weather.
I did have a lot of corrosion on the battery terminals last summer and had starting problems then, and had the mechanic clean the terminals and check the battery, and the battery was fine, yet the sound continues, but no further starting issues. What might be going on?
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I drive a 2010 Toyota Corolla, 1.8L vehicle. We recently went on vacation to Colorado and somewhere around Fairplay, CO, which is about 9500 feet above sea level, our relatively new car with only about 47K just died in the middle of the road where there was not shoulder or cell phone service. I pulled over the best I could and popped the hood after several attempts to restart to no avail. I removed the decorative plastic engine cover and looked at it long enough to realize I did not know anything to do or try, reinstalled the cover and closed the hood. I was then able to restart the car and go a little further.
It did happen to us one more time and again after a few minutes on the side of the road with the hood open I was able to start it. I was very surprised that there was no check engine light when I was able to restart the car. I would expect if the engine just dies in the middle of driving that it would at least produce a code where I could have some idea of what was going on. I have read about vapor lock, but it sounds like it is more likely to happen on older cars with a carburetor and with the fuel pump under the hood instead of in the fuel tank. Should I try higher octane fuel?
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2009 Toyota corolla Automatic, 1.8L NON 1ZZFE
Died while Friend was driving .
No MIL, no history or pending codes.
Verified spark with a test plug and a ignition wire tester. Has spark while cranking.
Verified engine has fuel at injectors, removed rail and attempted to start while monitoring injectors, visually fuel is being sprayed out.
Verified compression by removing #2 spark plug, inserted finger into hole, compression forces my finger out of the cylinder head.
Security light comes one initially for 2 second when key is turned on, but goes away during cranking.
Cranks nicely, wont fire or start.
Not sure what's wrong, looking for an EFI or Ignition wiring diagram.
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