Toyota - Matrix :: 2004 - Engine Chatter When Accelerating?
Mar 27, 2013
My 2004 Toyota Matrix has been making a rattling/chattering noise when I accelerate. I took it to a shop (in nyc, where I live) who said it is a problem with the bearings and that my best bet is to replace the engine with a used one. He quoted me about $2500, parts and labor included. Also, he said it doesn't really make sense to try to rebuild the engine - better to replace it.
Does this cost/analysis make sense? I know nothing about car repair, but a bit of googling does seem to confirm that this is a problem with the bearings (particularly the rod bearings?).
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I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix. About 130,000 miles and bought used from a dealer at about 20,000 miles. Was probably sitting on lot several months I get a rumble like going over rumble strips as I am accelerating, most often between 40 and 50 miles an hour, but regularly when I am driving over a distance at about 175 on the RPM gauge. It does not happen when I am accelerating consistently through that range. When it happens I can accelerate through it to stop it or it stops if I let off the accelerator. Dealer can't figure it out. Have checked wheel balance. Told me they will figure it out when it gets worse - very useful. Said they could do a transmission fluid service but no promises. They do a repair that would fix it that didn't fix it. A friend has suggested tire rods may be failing. Been going on several months and I have learned to pretty much drive to avoid the rumble but still worried the entire drive train is going to fall off the car one day.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Matrix with 56k miles on it. Recently it starting to make a whining sound when accelerating. It's very subtle, but kinda sounds like a plane taking off. It seems to go away once the car is moving/maintaining speed. I just got an oil change and the air filter replaced. Also, it seems to idle rougher than it used too, or I could just be paranoid.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Matrix, 5 spd manual with 175,000 miles. It's been a great car, but about 4 months ago I noticed more noise than usual from the engine compartment. It sounds like someone dropped a noisy diesel engine in there! The noise is most noticeable on the highway when the engine is under greater load (e.g. up hill). The dealer told me it's the belt tensioner. I had that replaced, but the noise is still there, and it's getting worse. I recently had the car completely serviced, full tune up, transmission fluid changed, etc.
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I'm about 100 miles into the break in period and I knew there would be chatter at idle but there also seems to be a lot of chatter driving around especially accelerating slowlyish from under 3,000 rpms in 4th. Is this normal or do i have a possibly botched install?
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I just recently swapped out my Automatic Transmission in my 91 MR2. The person i received it from had the system completely drained, including the torque converter. I found this out kinda hard the way, knowing that the pan was empty, but not expecting the torque converter to be empty as well. After filling up the system, i thought i may have overfilled it, because the fluid level was reading above the hot mark on the dipstick. So i drained the fluid and replaced the transmission filter. I put in 3 quarts of fluid and added the 4th quart of fluid over time, mainly letting the car run and warm up to operating temp and then adding fluid and letting it settle.
I kept doing this until i got to the full mark on hot. So this is where I am at now... On a cold start, the transmission will chatter in all gears, from park to low. Give it about minute or so to start warming up the chattering slowly goes away. When its at operating temperature, there is no chattering at all in any of the gears, and it presumes to be normal and fine. It takes about 5 minutes to fully warm up to operating temperature. Should i worry about the chatter at the beginning while its warming up? i have to drive the car because I want to be sure that the transmission is okay. I have thought about adding an additive, but all that i have read is just bad results, and failed transmissions.
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My engine just went out in my 2009 Corolla XRS. What vehicles have the same engine as a 2009 Corolla XRS 2.4L manual transmission?
Also, what would it take to put in the 1.8L engine? Would it bolt straight up? Would I need a new ecu/wiring harness/mounts/exhaust/trans etc?
I am considering putting in a rebuilt or used transmission at the same time because my syncros were failing.
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Bought this car new and really haven't had any major issues until the last month. It's a 2003, six-speed, inline 4, 1.8L engine. When I came to a stop, the engine just died and would not restart until I let it "rest" for a couple of minutes. It restarted and ran fine. This same thing happened again a week or so later.
Then, just yesterday, I was doing about 65 on the interstate and the engine died, tach dropped to 0, but I didn't lose power steering or brakes. I was coasting for a few seconds and the engine came back. When I slowed down to pull into a parking garage, it died but I was coasting enough to pop the clutch and it restarted for a moment allowing me to almost get into a parking stall. As I slowed to get into the stall it died completely and had to be pushed into the stall.
I left it there for a few hours. When I got back, it started and ran fine. I feel this is just the beginning of some problem with the electronic control module/unit.
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We purchased a certified pre-owned 2009 Toyota Matrix (S--AWD) in January 2012, with approx 17K miles (a lease turn in). We purchased a platinum vehicle service plan that covers the car through 2017 or 100K miles. We had the oil changed at 22K miles (May 2012) per the recommended 5K miles at a private garage, not a Toyota dealer. This place had done work on my previous vehicle, a 1994 Corolla, for 6 years and had proven to be reliable and trustworthy, in my opinion.
Last Friday, my husband was driving our daughter to daycare, and 5 miles from our home, the oil and engine lights came on in close succession, and the engine seized and died. We had roadside assistance through the warranty, and it was towed to the nearest Toyota dealer, which is not the one we purchased the vehicle at. They informed me that the car had no oil filter and that therefore nothing that happened to the car was covered under warranty, and said it was clearly the fault of whomever had changed the oil.
Problem: The oil had been changed 4 months, and 4K miles before this happened.Problem: There is no evidence of an oil leak in our garage, our driveway, the driveway at my workplace: There is no evidence of a catastrophic oil dump along the 5 mile route before the car died: We cannot find an oil filter along this path either, we have been along it on bicycle looking in the weeds
So the car was in our garage with no oil leaking at 6:45 am, and somehow ended up out of oil, with no filter, in 5 miles, by 7 am. The car had been driving fine--I am the one who usually drives it. I actually drove it 80 miles on Tuesday b.c I had forgotten my laptop at home and had to make the trip to and from work twice (22 miles one way). Then my husband had Weds-Fri off and it was driven 12 miles to and from daycare on Weds and Thurs, and the 5 miles on Friday before it died. No lights were on when I drove it Tuesday, and he says no lights were on before the point that it died.
The guy who changed the oil says the he cannot see how they are at fault, b.c there is no way the car could go so far and so long with an improperly installed filter (it is the screw in style filter, not a cartridge), and that if it were loose, as soon as the seal was broken, oil would spray everywhere. He went and looked at the car at the dealer, and looked at the spot where the car broke down and said there is not enough oil there. There is about enough in spots that would cover an area around a foot in diameter. Toyota says it could have been a slow leak if it was not screwed on right--but where is the evidence for an oil leak? Shouldn't the oil light have gone off previously if oil was low? The oil change guy says there's no way there would be a slow leak, the oil would have all dumped out and killed the engine long before the filter somehow fell off. He keeps asking me where is the oil, and where is the filter? Which I would love to have the answers to those questions, but I don't. He says unless I can produce the filter to show it is the one he put in, and that it is banged up to show it came off the car, he won't pursue an insurance claim. Toyota says it sounds weird but since he is the last one that touched the car, it's his fault. Right now we are in the middle and it is looking like we are going to be stuck with the bill for a new engine.
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I got a 1998 Toyota Camry with 2.2L 4 cylinders and have almost 210K miles on it.
Starting about 2 months ago, I was experiencing some minor engine kicking when it was either idling or accelerating, not really such a big deal. About a month ago, I took it to my mechanic shop and he told me that I need to clean up the throttle body. I took his advice, let him did the work and the car still doing the same thing. I did a lot of research on the internet and many people suggested replacing the spark plugs and after I replace the plugs (Bosch, not something cheap), the situation got even worse.
The engine starts kicking more frequently and violently and the “Check Engine” light came on (and flashing). I took my car to a local auto parts store and have their people get the error code for me, it was something about engine misfire and they told me I should have my mechanic to take a look.I took the car back to my mechanic, 2 days later when I called him for update, he told me the cause of the problem was the spark plug cables didn’t plugged in securely. But just before I drove off the mechanic’s parking lot, the engine did it again. I didn’t go back to ask my mechanic because I truly believe he did not want to spend any more time on my car.
Here are the current conditions of my car,
•It never fail to start when the engine is cold or warm
•When I stopped at traffic light, the engine ran smoothly, after about 10 to 20 seconds of idling, it starts kicking. It will do this no matter if my gear in in P, R, N or D.
•When the car is completely stop and then I press the accelerator, the engine will act like it’s going to choke and if I keep holding the accelerator, 2 to 5 seconds later it will rev up and going
•I will be even worse if I have my AC on.
•It runs smoothly if it on the highway
•It always acting up if I try to make a 90 degree right turn and never happens on a left turn
•The “Check Engine” light did come up again but went away 2 days later.
•I made a hard brake yesterday and it took the car about 15 seconds to be able to rev up the engine again.
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2005 Toyota Matrix. I know, bad year. Occasionally, I turn the keys in the ignition and I can hear the starter initiating, but the engine doesn't turn over. It's a seldom occurrence, sometimes lasting 5 minutes, sometimes 30, usually 2-3 times a week(car driven 4-5 times daily). Usually best practice for me is to walk away from the car for a time and come back later to try it. Shorter trips and rainy months tend to increase the problem. Took to Toyota dealer: replaced EMU(three times), oxygen sensor and fuel pump. None of which made any impact on problem. Dealership as never actually SEEN the problem, despite holding it for an entire week. Where should I have them poke around next?
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I drive a 2004 Toyota Matrix SRX, It has a 6 speed manual gearbox. Sometimes when I am driving and i push the clutch whether to decelerate or when I'm sitting at a stop light the car dies. It seems like when the engine is slowing down it sometimes doesn't catch itself to idle and just dies.
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Today I picked up my son over at his girlfriends house, and her father was in the garage. He said he replaced the headlamp bulb, but did not insert it back in place before starting the car ( I guess to check it). The bulb and harness must have touched metal and caused a short at a wire into the harness. The bulb would work if you wiggled the wires.
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I have a 2003 toyota tacoma 4x4 with the 3.4l engine. Recently I have noticed that while accelerating I am losing power. I first noticed it would surge while going slowly uphill and since it has started happening all the time. I especially notice a serious dip in power during freeway acceleration at around 3000 rpm. The truck has 100000 miles on it. I have changed the plugs, run injector cleaner (the stuff you buy at the gas station), cleaned the throttle body, changed the air filter, and cleaned the mass airflow sensor. I have played a little with the throttle position sensor and that seems to have some affect on the timing of the surge but it is hard to tell. Of course toyota doesn't service the TPS for that year but rather try to sell you a new throttle body $1100.00!!! Could this be the catalytic converter or maybe a faulty injector? Also, I have not changed the timing belt yet.
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I am trying to diagnose a sound that is coming from my 2001 Camry 2.2L. When I accelerate there is a load humming noise coming from the engine. It happens at all speeds and only when I accelerate.
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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While driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
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Starting somewhere in the course of a 400 mile drive yesterday, my car developed a new sound. It sounds like something is either vibrating against something else or some little chunk of plastic is bouncing around in the engine somewhere. At first I thought it was a piece of the bumper or trim dragging on the road, but it's not. You hear it when the car starts, when the car gets gas, and even when the engine is idling. It's not a constant sound, but it's there more often then it is not. It's there at high and low speeds. It's there whether the engine is warm or dead cold. To my untrained eye, there's nothing out of order when I look under the hood. It doesn't seem to impact performance (yet!).
I'm attaching a link to a video of me taking a drive around the block this morning: [URL] ....
2010 Toyota Matrix with 72k miles....
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There is no problem starting the car- it always turns over immediately, but every 1 out of 7 - 10 cold starts includes a strange noise from the engine compartment. Just as I let go from the crank position, I hear a sound similar to that of playing cards being shuffled. The duration of the noise is just a second or two, just like the time it takes to shuffle once.
It never has happened when the car is still warm. I had the Toyota dealer look at it, but they couldn't reproduce the noise- not surprising, since I didn't leave the car overnight, and even if I had, it still would be unlikely to happen when needed. The noise has been happening for a year or so, and it doesn't seem to increase or decrease in frequency due to air temperature or weather.
I did have a lot of corrosion on the battery terminals last summer and had starting problems then, and had the mechanic clean the terminals and check the battery, and the battery was fine, yet the sound continues, but no further starting issues. What might be going on?
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I drive a 2010 Toyota Corolla, 1.8L vehicle. We recently went on vacation to Colorado and somewhere around Fairplay, CO, which is about 9500 feet above sea level, our relatively new car with only about 47K just died in the middle of the road where there was not shoulder or cell phone service. I pulled over the best I could and popped the hood after several attempts to restart to no avail. I removed the decorative plastic engine cover and looked at it long enough to realize I did not know anything to do or try, reinstalled the cover and closed the hood. I was then able to restart the car and go a little further.
It did happen to us one more time and again after a few minutes on the side of the road with the hood open I was able to start it. I was very surprised that there was no check engine light when I was able to restart the car. I would expect if the engine just dies in the middle of driving that it would at least produce a code where I could have some idea of what was going on. I have read about vapor lock, but it sounds like it is more likely to happen on older cars with a carburetor and with the fuel pump under the hood instead of in the fuel tank. Should I try higher octane fuel?
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I bought a 2007 Toyota Matrix new, and it now has 41,800-something miles on it. At 38K miles the check engine light came on while I was on vacation out of state. The nearest Toyota dealer checked it out, told me the check engine light code was P0741 - problem with the torque converter - but they didn't see any obvious problem and the car drove fine for them and for me. They turned the light off but it went back on before very long. The car has now been to 2 different Toyota dealerships near my home because the check engine light keeps turning on. They also report seeing the same code, also seeing nothing obviously amiss,and tell me I need my transmission replaced. This seems preposterous to me for such a low mileage Toyota.
In December, when the check engine light went on again, I discovered it would turn off if I filled the car with gas. It still comes back on; if I either fill the car with gas, or simply open and close the gas cap, the check engine light will turn off after 3 - 4 trips with the car. What does the gas cap have to do with the torque converter?
What's really weird is that the light always comes on under the same conditions. Most of my driving is short trips, a couple of miles in town at around 30 mph. The light never comes on during "town" driving. My highway driving consists of trips of about 1 hour; parking for an hour or two; then returning home -- again, about an hour's drive. The check engine light always comes on when I'm doing highway driving on the trip home. I've clocked the mileage for the last 3 times the light came on. It came on after highway driving a total of 48, 51, and 48 miles, respectively.
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