Toyota - Matrix :: 2004 - CEL On / Code Indicating A Recent Failure To Shift Properly
Aug 11, 2015
So, I have a 2004 Toyota Matrix with about 104K miles on it, regular oil service and general maintenance. A few weeks back, my check engine light came on, took it in for diagnosis. The code was for the TCC, indicating a recent failure to shift properly. I've noticed no unusual behavior before or since the light came on, but I'm told that this is an indication of a failing transmission. My local transmission repair shop took it for a drive and said that this was probably the case as well. Estimates for a rebuild run in the 2200-2400 range. That said, I've also seen that it could be that I just need new transmission fluid. I had the fluid replaced, again, no noticeable shifting problems or unusual car behavior.
I'm wondering if
a) I should just drive and maintain the car as usual and if the light returns, then consider a rebuild or
b) begin to make preparations to get rid of the vehicle.
Bluebook estimates this in the 3-3500 range, so I'd assume it's sale value would be quite a bit less (perhaps less than the cost of a rebuild) for obvious reasons.
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07 Prius. So I get the triangle of death, car shuts down, and throws the A093 code indicating pump failure.
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I just wanted to share my story here. Last week on a routine trip on I-5 warning lights started flashing indicating hybrid drive failure. The car automatically shifted into neutral and I was limping along down hill. Luckily I saw a downhill exit and had the foresight to turn off where to my horror I discovered that my brakes didn't work. So I had to coast to the bottom of the hill and again made a quick decision to turn into a slight uphill side street to force myself to a stop with the parking brake. At point the car completely died and I couldn't even shift into neutral to push it.
After towing it to AAA and avoiding a collision on I-5 (if I pulled into the shoulder without breaks I likely would have crashed into a retaining wall) and then not being smacked after I got it to a stop I was pretty shaken...I'm lucky to be alive.
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The engine light on my 2001 Toyota Solara V6 keeps coming on with a code that indicates the Catalytic convertor. The convertor has been replaced 3 times with Mineke non-OEM replacements. The O2 sensor on the muffler has also been replaced.
Question, is there any other repair that can be done to correct this short of Toyota doing a full exhaust replacement?
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I have 1995 Toyota Avalon w/173K miles. It’s in good shape mechanically and cosmetically. My 16 yr old daughter is the primary driver. I have extensive service records and have replaced the springs/struts, o2 sensors, and a few other bits. My question is related to hard shifts and a check engine light. During the summer the trans shifts normally. In the fall & winter, when temps dip below 50 degrees, the trans shifts harshly and the check engine light blinks indicating a trans solenoid is defective. The trans fluid has been flushed twice, most recently in Oct 2008 at the Toyota dealership. My theory is the techs filled the trans with a heavier weight fluid than is necessary and that is triggering the codes.
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My brother and father just finished with all of the small issues after throwing in both a "new" engine into the vehicle and a transmission..both have around 80K miles (chassis has around 180K). There were some issues with codes after both were installed, but then everything was diagnosed and fixed, vehicles codes were gone and vehicle was able to be registered, afterall.
Anyways, now the car threw a P0715 code and has issues with shifting. It appears that the Santa Fe is stuck in a single gear (appears to be a higher gear). The car won't shift properly, especially noticed at higher speeds in a main road. Using tiptronic does not seem to make a difference. After the car sits and is taken around the neighborhood, it seems to drive fine, until it is taken out into a main road...I'm guessing once it heats up?
So, what should be looked into? A sensor? Is it maybe because this "new" used trans was swapped in and all of the trans fluid was replaced with new fluid? What could the issue be? I guesss the car's been a headache but they're trying to get it finished to avoid any further codes/issues.
02' Santa Fe 2.7 FWD
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Had the cams installed about a month ago, and haven't had a CEL on in the car since I got it.. has been 100% trouble free.
Drove about 30 mins somewhere tonight with nothing out of the ordinary, and after leaving my friends house about 3 mins down the road the CEL came on.. Car wasn't idling rough, didn't misfire, didn't sound rough at all.. I pulled over and re tightened the gas cap just incase that was the reason (hadn't driven the car in about 3 days) and drove off, made it home with nothing changed. on the way I did a few pulls in all gears, and the car had all its power, no weird sounds from the engine or exhaust.
Got home and scanned, and this is what I got :
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 022 906 032 EG
Component: United R32 G 6404
Coding: 0000132
Shop#: WSC 31414
1 Fault Found
16398 - Bank 1: Camshaft B (Exhaust): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0014 - 008 - Implausable signal
Readiness:0000 0000
So.. not sure if its anything serious or not, or where to start..
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I have a 2002 F-150 that is showing a code indicating "EGR insufficient flow". I replaced the EGR valve and cleared the light/code, but the "check engine light" keeps coming back on and code indicates the same problem. What may be causing the light to keep coming on, even after replacing the EGR valve?
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I took my 2000 passat 1.8t to a couple of places and both say that my abs and brakes are fine even though there is a flashing light that says brake lights failure and abs light. The brake lights do work. Is there a way for me to clear the code?
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What the heck? I have not heard of an over heated O2 sensor. I know they have an extra wire in them for a heater element but I have two temp codes indicating the failure and a permanent code as well.
I know its under warranty but what a weird failure. Overheating...Guess Ill be making that appointment at service earlier than I expected.
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I bought a 2007 Toyota Matrix new, and it now has 41,800-something miles on it. At 38K miles the check engine light came on while I was on vacation out of state. The nearest Toyota dealer checked it out, told me the check engine light code was P0741 - problem with the torque converter - but they didn't see any obvious problem and the car drove fine for them and for me. They turned the light off but it went back on before very long. The car has now been to 2 different Toyota dealerships near my home because the check engine light keeps turning on. They also report seeing the same code, also seeing nothing obviously amiss,and tell me I need my transmission replaced. This seems preposterous to me for such a low mileage Toyota.
In December, when the check engine light went on again, I discovered it would turn off if I filled the car with gas. It still comes back on; if I either fill the car with gas, or simply open and close the gas cap, the check engine light will turn off after 3 - 4 trips with the car. What does the gas cap have to do with the torque converter?
What's really weird is that the light always comes on under the same conditions. Most of my driving is short trips, a couple of miles in town at around 30 mph. The light never comes on during "town" driving. My highway driving consists of trips of about 1 hour; parking for an hour or two; then returning home -- again, about an hour's drive. The check engine light always comes on when I'm doing highway driving on the trip home. I've clocked the mileage for the last 3 times the light came on. It came on after highway driving a total of 48, 51, and 48 miles, respectively.
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Twice today I have gotten a message to the effect that I should check my lights. I have forgotten the exact words. I checked the lights and they all seem to be working properly. Is this what people mean when they write that their lights are flickering?
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recently started getting a 336 code indicating crankshaft positioning sensor out of limits.
removed the 7x sensor but it seems ok and the car does start ok. checked the ECM input of the 24x sensor and I never get anything but straight 11.2 volts when crank turns. checked at the 24x connector and get the same. (green lead on B connection).
problem I have is getting to the sensor. The crank pulley bolt just will not let go! I've tried impact gun set to max,(typical DIY type gun, not the best) and tried a breaker bar with hammer. how to get the crankshaft balancer off.
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I own a 2006 JDM prius with 323,000 km. The inverter coolant pump failed recently (got P0A93 code and no agitation in coolant reservoir). I ordered a replacement on eBay and am awaiting arrival. I may need to do some light driving in the in the interim and am thinking about installing a 10 inch fan in the space between the inverter/transmission and radiator to keep things cool. Is this wise or should I just let the car sit until the new pump gets here?
Also, I am burning oil...I usually have to top up 1 to 2 quarts in between changes. Is there anything I can do without tearing down the engine? A friend of mine suggested using Lucas oil stabilizer the next time I change oil...could this have any negative implications?
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This began as a troubleshooting exercise for a P0442 code (2002 model) indicating a leak in the evap emissions system. Often caused by simple things like a loose/poorly sealing filler cap. Not this time
It's a neat design, tucked away up in the fender well. Even sports a very effective stone guard (plastic shield) which hides all that tubing from view. But the shield also traps all the road salt and mud and packs it into the crevices between the tubes where it stays from one winter till the next. Even a powerful car wash probably can't dislodge the caked on mess once solidified.
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2001 Ranger-4 Liter-169,000 Odometer Miles ... Over the past year I would get an occasional CEL indicating PO442 Leak Detected (small leak). I would simply erase it. Now it's occurring more frequently at approximately 300 odometer miles.
There must be lots a places for a small leak to develop. But, I am thinking that there might be one or two places that are somewhat common.
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I have a 1999 F150 with a 5.4L. I recently replaced the PCM with a new unit from autocomputerexchange.net that was programed for my truck. I installed the PCM but the truck did not start. The theft light is also flashing rapidly during cranking. I ran a code scanner a recieved the code P1260 indicating an attempted theft which disabled the truck. I read that if you have two keys you can sync the keys with the new computer but unfortunately one of the keys stopped working a couple years ago (not sure why, stopped for gas and it never started back up). Since i do not have two working keys do i have to tow the truck to a dealer and let them reprogram the keys and reset the PATS or can i have a locksmith recode the keys and sync the keys myself.
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ok i was just driving my 2004 ford f150 truck and it stopped running. I turned the key and it started back up again and then while on idle it stopped again. I took it too auto zone and it showed a code of p1237 which as far as i can see says fuel pump secondary circuit failure. does that mean i need a new fuel pump and how hard is it to replace.
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So as a new owner of a Prius v, I keep seeing what I think are other v's. However upon closer viewing I notice that they are Mazda 5s. So it makes me wonder how close they are in size/styling. As I keep seeing a lot of them.
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My 2004 Toyota Matrix has been making a rattling/chattering noise when I accelerate. I took it to a shop (in nyc, where I live) who said it is a problem with the bearings and that my best bet is to replace the engine with a used one. He quoted me about $2500, parts and labor included. Also, he said it doesn't really make sense to try to rebuild the engine - better to replace it.
Does this cost/analysis make sense? I know nothing about car repair, but a bit of googling does seem to confirm that this is a problem with the bearings (particularly the rod bearings?).
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I have a corolla 2010 S and I think the blower is not working properly. It work in all speeds but in the max speed (4) you could hear and feel that the air flow varies. There is a little noise coming from the glove compartment. I already change the cabin air filter and still do it. I have to change the blower ?
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