Toyota - Matrix :: 2003 - Revving Sporadically On Cold Start
Jan 20, 2014
On cold mornings when I start my car the engine revs sporadically. It will initially stay at about 1200 rpm for a couple seconds, but then the rpms slowly increase or surge until cut off about 2400 rpm and the process starts again until the car is warm. The colder it gets the worse it is, usually 50 degrees or less it's noticeable. It has done this since I have owned it with 40,000 miles (now has 117,000).
I did find this TSB EG022-07 but it is for a manual transmission, but describes my symptoms (mine is AT). Also, I believe the ECU was replaced with the catalytic converter on another TSB at 78,000 miles in 2009, which is 2 years after the TSB. Is it possible that the ECU still needs an update? Or, is there a different problem? I know its not the o2 sensor, plugs, battery, or intake gasket, and of course Toyota mechanics told me its normal, and cant duplicate the problem.
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Winds way up with a whine for the immediate 2-3 seconds after a cold start only and settles down as normal. Disturbing new sound and action that just started in the last day or two. 216k on the clock.
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My 1995 Toyota Corolla DX with 180,000 miles is missing. It was missing intermittently, especially when idling and cold, and especially when I drove short distances to run errands and then restarted it. It got to the point where it was missing even when warm, and would stall out when idling (always restarted eventually). I took it in to a shop, and they replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil (which was fried) and the distributor cap and rotor.
All of the low speed and idling problems are solved. However, it now misses intermittently when I drive on the highway, only when giving the car gas at speeds of 45 mph or higher. It doesn't miss when I am coasting, regardless of speed, and doesn't miss at all under 45 mph. This car drives too well under 45 to be headed to the scrap yard yet.
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Recently purchased a used 2003 Toyota Camry LE. After a recent oil change at the local Toyota dealer we noticed that when we start the car in the morning a puff of white smoke spews out from the exhaust for a few seconds and stops. There is no more white smoke while driving the car around. The car runs perfect and has no power loss. Initially we had noticed it was losing coolant. All the discussion on the internet pointed to a bad head gasket. We had a mechanic look at it and it turned out that the radiator was leaking and hence the loss of coolant. He also noticed the oil was overfilled so he brought it down to the normal level. The mechanic also checked the head gasket and claimed there were no issues with it. Replacing the radiator took care of the coolant loss but the white smoke still comes out only the first time the car is started.
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2002 LS-V8 230k miles.
Recently, I'm noticing that when the car is cold, the transmission is sporadically shifting hard. Sometimes from P to R it kicks into gear hard. From R to D the same thing. Whenever I shift to to N first, and then go to R or D it never happens.
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My 2005 Toyota matrix started having a lazy start as soon as I had the timing belt changed, and has even failed to start then gone back to lazy starting routine. Is changing the timing belt likely to corrupt the engine timing? Should the mechanic have checked the timing as part of the belt replacement job?
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I have an airbag light indicator issue with my matrix 2009.
Whenever I start the car in cold, the indicator says " Airbag is off". After driven for like 30 mins and turn off and turn engine, everything is normal.
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My 2009 Toyota Matrix will turn over but wont start. I cant figure out what is causing this. So far I have replaced the battery ( Just in case ) I checked the spark plugs , they are good , If I try and start it a couple of times I can sometimes get it to start but its really rough sounding and dies instantly even if I give it gas. I also hear the fuel pump engaging so I don't think that is it. I put 5 gallons of premium gas in the tank just to make sure she didn't get some bad gas since she was almost on empty. I am lost at what to do now.
I just went over 60k miles so no warranty anymore.
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My 2006 would not start today after I got gas. I drove the car for an hour with no problems. I then stopped to get gas it would not start. I knew the engine was still warm because i had just stopped after driving for an hour. yet the temp gauge read cold. After a while of trying to start the car with it only cranking, not turning over I waited. After waiting a while the temp gauge started to work again showing a warm engine. The engine was also warm to the touch. I tried to start the car once the temp Gauge worked again and the car turned over with no problems and little effort.
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I have a 03 Matrix and my AC compressor does not stay on long enough to cool the car. In cool weather (less than 80 degrees), on the highway, the AC works well enough if I have it on high. When the weather heats up or when the car is sitting still, the AC doesn't work at all. Today, it was in the 90s and I got an occasional cool breeze from it, when the car was moving.
When observing the pump, I see it kick on briefly then quickly turn off. It's off much more than on, when the car is sitting still. The coolant pressure is charged and I tried swapping the relay. For a time, it was making some noise. I would kind of make a rapid dove sound when running and a fart sound when shutting off. I didn't notice that happening today though.
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Is it possible for the brakes to make some kind of noise when it's cold outside?
I've been noticing some kind of noise after a cold start, I'd drive the car a little bit then apply the brakes and it would just make this random noise coming from the front-right side of the car. It sounds like a grinding noise, but I can't really tell. It doesn't create an issue either, I'll let go of the steering wheel and the car doesn't drift in any direction at all, the noise appears but the car is slowing down properly.
The noise disappears though after the 1st time it happens, and would only reappear after you've turned the car off, parked it where it's cold and it would only appear after not using it for at least 2 hours. My dad already took it to the dealership and they said the brakes are perfectly fine.
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Every now and then I have rattling noise when trying to start on a cold start in the morning. Mainly just sounds like a dry start. Battery is good, oil is full (high mileage Valvoline 5W20). Ive tried 5W-30 and it didn't do anything, just made the mpgs about 1 less.
Ive had the car fixed for the main TSB issue with the starter/camshaft so that is not it, which caused a full on grinding noise.
Everyday commuter car, use 87 chevron gas always, and I just used Lucas gas additive the last two fill ups (used normally every 1k miles) and still getting the noise every now and then in the morning. Are there any better injector cleaners out there?
Should I get the fuel injectors fully 3step cleaned? when talking to the service rep at brake-masters, they stated that I should use 91 premium gas to work with dry starts to burn off extra carbon buildup. Wasn't sure if that was a good idea for a 09 corolla S?
93k miles, new spark plugs last week, oil changes every 3k.
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We got a 15 F150 yay for her but I got stuck with her 113k.
So the engine makes a chain grinding sound on cold start ups and the tranny is slipping pretty hard.
Can I swap a 2.4 with a 5spd without doing a bunch of wiring?
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I bought a brand new Toyota Corolla LE, took it for a ride, then went jogging and while jogging I lost one of the master keys. Now, I got me a replacement key/fob and I have been able to program the buttons to lock/unlock the car , however, I have not had any success programming the chip to start the, local dealer here in the Bay Area want a lot of money that I currently don't have.
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Bought this car new and really haven't had any major issues until the last month. It's a 2003, six-speed, inline 4, 1.8L engine. When I came to a stop, the engine just died and would not restart until I let it "rest" for a couple of minutes. It restarted and ran fine. This same thing happened again a week or so later.
Then, just yesterday, I was doing about 65 on the interstate and the engine died, tach dropped to 0, but I didn't lose power steering or brakes. I was coasting for a few seconds and the engine came back. When I slowed down to pull into a parking garage, it died but I was coasting enough to pop the clutch and it restarted for a moment allowing me to almost get into a parking stall. As I slowed to get into the stall it died completely and had to be pushed into the stall.
I left it there for a few hours. When I got back, it started and ran fine. I feel this is just the beginning of some problem with the electronic control module/unit.
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I took my 2003 Toyota Matrix with around 148K miles to a local shop for the 150K work. This is the first time I have not taken it to the Toyota dealership because I wanted to use a local shop that works on Toyotas. I live in Asheville, NC. I spent over $800 for this service, rotating and alignment, plugs changed etc and they checked a engine light and told me I needed a new catalytic converter. I took the car in on November 2nd. On December 23rd I was driving on the interstate and heard a pop and a coughing noise. I was stranded on the side of the highway in Knoxville, TN. I got a tow to the a Toyota dealership where I learned that "the spark plug shot out like a rocket" through the header. I ended up getting a used motor for $4400. I have since spoken with other mechanics, all who have said that this is a problem with Fords. All have said the plug must not have been installed properly. They said it could have been a faulty plug but they don?t know how.
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Came out this morning and after letting the car warm up, went to shift into gear and was unable to get car to go from neutral to any of the gears. If I turn the car off, shift into any gear, and then turn the car on - then I can drive in the gear that I am currently in. As soon as I shift from any gear back into neutral, it will not let me shift into another gear while the motor is running. I have looked at some troubleshooting and even called a local mechanic who was baffled by the problem. I don't' know if it is the synchonizers, clutch control cable, or the clutch itself...
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2009 Matrix with 2Zr-Fe engine (233,000 km or 145000 miles).
Engine has been getting progressively harder to start in the morning, especially when it is cold. Once its warmed up then it starts no problem next time. Occasionally I get the dreaded P0304 code upon startup. Also runs a lot rougher but that's hard to quantify here, I'm just going by sound.
Decided tonight to go through a complete checkup and here is what I found:
1. Looked for a dead cylinder by idling the car and disconnecting each fuel injector one at a time - everything was as it should be.
2. Used my spark tester (OTC 6589) and tested each coil in turn (yes I had the tester connected to battery negative using a battery booster cable). Each sparked strong and correct colour.
3. Pulled all spark plugs and checked them for cracks, carbon tracks and electrode gap, all were fine.
4. Did a dry compression test.
- Uh oh , 2 cylinders (3 and 4) were @ 115 psi, 1 and 2 were at 150 psi (which is also low as standard spec for 2zrfe notes it should be between 157 and 199).
5. Did a wet compression test
- cylinders 3 and 4 now ended up at 150 Psi so that indicates worn rings or pistons?
6. I didn't bother with the fuel injector testing as it looks like the problem is with compression...
So, first, is my diagnosis correct? Could it be a bad head gasket?
Second, is there something in my procedure above that I could have done wrong? The car was warm but not hot. I pulled all spark plugs before starting testing. I didn't take much time between plug holes.
Third, other than rebuilding or replacing engine, are there other options or am I out of luck?
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Toyota Corolla S 2009 Automatic 4 Door
Saturday I changed the starter because the old one was going out and I didnt want it to die so it was preventaive. Went to put in the sparkplugs but the dealer gave me the wrong ones, drove to the dealer and they pulled out one I had to check it and put it back in. (I had 9/16 long plugs, which is rare for my engine apparently.) I went to leave, and when I turned it over, nothing happened. I pulled the Key out, waited 5 seconds, started up. Went home, put in the sparkplugs and drove about 300 miles since Saturday and no problem.
Today I went to leave and the car turned over multiple times, after the 4th, it acted like it was starting but shut off and kept turning over.
First, I checked all the wires on the plugs and around them, even pulled all the plugs and put in the old ones. Same problem.
I unplugged the battery and hoped if it was a computer glitch that it would have fixed it. Same problem.
When I turn it over, the started keeps going and it will pretend to turn on for half a second and then keep turning over. I also smell raw gas when I get out of the car for a few seconds before it goes away.
The last time it did throw codes, but I have no reader. I have to wait for the neighbor to pull them. Is there anything I can test or check out? Everything as far as the wires and fuses look good. I am at a loss for where to go.
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I have had an intermittent problem with my 2010 Toyota Corolla S Manual for awhile now. The vehicle has about 27k on it and I am the only owner.
This problem began a few years back where I would get in the car and crank it and the car would take longer than normal to start. It would usually chug a bit and then start so I wasn't too concerned at this point. Yesterday I had to crank on it 4 times stopping for 1 minute between cranks and the engine finally started and then chugged hard for a good 5 seconds or so.... I was reading that the previous models had a problem with the ECU documented here.
[URL] .....
This does not seem to apply to my vehicle although the problem seems dead on. I don't suspect battery. The car cranks hard.... Obviously it can't be the starter. I really doubt it's the fuel pump doing this. I'm going to guess ECU, injector, some funky electrical issue.
I bought this car brand new from the dealer with 2 miles on it and I can't think of anything werid that has happened to the vehicle. Before anybody says cold weather is a factor.... It was almost 40 when I cranked on my car yesterday so I doubt that is it. Also I started the car in much colder conditions. The car did sit for a week before this happened... I can't remember if the car sat for a long period of time before the other starting issues happened. I'm planning on taking the car to the dealership soon, I'm in the process of moving so I can't be without a car right now.
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I thought I'd be free of problems having bought a new Toyota Rav4 in Jan. In June, with less than 3K miles, my husband had a (BIG) fender bender (turns out his meds made him blank out, he was driving at 10-15 mph) (and he is going on 80). Repairs cost over 3K, but I was able to drive it to the dealer. Soon after I got it back a month later, I started hearing a brief grinding noise under the accelerator, at speeds of 20-30 mph. Mostly after I took my foot off the accelerator, once or twice after I took my foot off the brake. This noise sounds like brakes grinding, appears very sporadically and briefly. I took it to the dealer and of course they could find nothing wrong, said everything checks out. They said to bring it back when it's doing the noise. Which it does maybe once a week, for a second or two. sheesh.What to do? I actually want to start all over, I do not want to drive with my ear to the gas pedal. (My husband now only drives in town!)
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