Toyota - Manual-transmissions - Corolla :: When The Car Idles Engine Revs Up A Bit Like A Hum
Feb 10, 2011
This corolla is about 10-15 years old, i don't know how old. Again, its a manual transmission. It started today, when the car idles, the engine revs up a bit like a hum. I wasn't pressing the gas petal or anything and it just revs by it self. My dad says it was probably the engine was too cold and it is just warming itself. Then my dad said the car mechanic said its the gas sensor? He also said the sensor cost about 200 and with labor job, 280$. good deal?
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I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
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Toyota Corolla 93, manual transmission so there was a problem with idling, while it idles, the engine revs up but im not pressing the gas pedal at all. found out it the vacuum hose was broken. we fix it, buy a new one and now the engine dies out. change the air filter. The car still dies out. so the car either dies out or bad idling. what do i do?
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I have a 2001 RAV4 4WD. I gave the car to my sister. When she and other family members drive it, the car revs to 4K rpm without moving, hesitate, then drives. It is dangerous to merge. I know there is a bulletin on this problem for model years 2001 to 2003, and Toyota will replace the ECU and transmission, if damaged, extending the warranty to 150K miles or 10 years (the car has 108K miles, and approaching 10 years). However, no engine light and no code shows up.
We took it to 2 transmission specialists; both will not touch the transmission because they (independent of each other) feel it's the ECU. (We have used them in the past for other cars.) We then took it to 2 Toyota dealerships; Toyota won't fix it, recommends replacing the transmission. We are stuck because we can't get answers and can't get any solutions to our problem.
We called Toyota; the Toyota case worker has been useless, says he sees nothing wrong with the car and said it's safe to drive (it's not, especially when merging). Both local transmission specialists said they would not drive the car in that condition. Right now it's sitting in the driveway, totally useless.
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My daughter's 2002 Saturn S-series coupe has a manual transmission. Lately it has been jumping out of 2nd gear, and occassionally 4th and reverse. What is the most likely cause?
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
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Just as the title says, 214k great shape just wont get going more you mash the less it goes.... fuel pump already replaced, can undo battery and take a while to reset feels to do fine then goes back to bogging down... TPS ? idle air control?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla with about 170,000 miles. It idles rough and at about 50-55 mph it loses power and runs very poorly, like it is not banging on all cylinders.
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
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I have a 2013 Toyota Corolla. I'm maintaining it according to the manual. I hope to keep it for a long time.
I see when reading the manual that the instructions for 6-month interval maintenance stop at 120,000 miles/144 months. There is nothing after that. But Corollas can last upwards of 200K miles.
What do you do at this point when there are no more maintenance instructions? Return to an earlier point in the maintenance instructions and repeat?
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At least that's when I notice it,... right in that range, seems the car hesitates and then starts up again and hesitates,... and you can see the tachometer go up to around 2 k and then down to 1600 rpm,.. but I am not accelerating with the gas peddle. Thoughts on what is causing this..
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My 03 Corolla S - 5 Speed has developed a sound while driving, only when giving it gas. The sound goes away when I press in the clutch. It doesn't make any unusual sounds while parked and idling.
The sound, sounds like a knocking noise. At least to me that's what it sounds like. My car has 156k miles on it.
The car idles fine, rpm's are good on while driving, temps good and still gets really good gas mileage.
Does it have something to do with my clutch, since the noise goes away when I take my foot off the gas, or press the clutch in?
Is there something I should be checking? All my fluids are good, brake/clutch, oil, transmission fluid, radiator, etc.
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My 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem. I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons. Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue. It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning". Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
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I'm not sure if it's a missing bolt or another issue, but my shifter just started becoming "sticky" while in neutral. Sticky meaning when I go to slide it side to side while in neutral it's slow, and it's slow to return to the middle when I release it on the left just under 1st (while in neutral). I noticed that I can pull up on the shifter and it actually lifts and glides easily then, but add I shift over the day it pushes back down and repeats. Goes into and out of gear ok, I hear some grinding nose even in neutral unless I lift up on the shifter.
Side note that may be unrelated, my hand break stopped laying flat when disengaged. I it pops up slightly causing the break light to come on. Both began about the same time.
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I bought a 2004 Honda Accord over the summer. Now the the weather is cooler, I drive with the windows down, and I have noticed there is a "clack" sound when I change gears. It is hard to describe the sound, but it sounds like someone hitting a plate of metal with a hammer. I only hear this sound in first, second and third gear. The engine gets too loud in fourth and fifth gear, so it may just be drowning out the "clack".
I never remember hearing such a sound when I drove a manual transmission back in the late 90s. Is this sound an indicator of a problem? Do I need to take the car into a shop to have them take a look at it?
Additional Information:
Mileage: 106,000I am not the original owner, I purchased it at CarMax, and there was only one owner for the entire life of the car until CarMax bought it. The car looks like it was really cared for by the original owner. CarMax said that the clutch was fine, but...you never know with salesmen.
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I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
for these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when I am changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] .....
What is causing this and is it dangerous to drive this car?
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So my brother "learned" how to drive manual and asked if he could take my car for a spin. As we were driving he went from fifth gear (which he had prematurely switched to) to first. This occurred at about 35 or 40 mph. The car kind of jerked and a mechanical clicking could be heard. The clutch feels fine, and I can switch to all gears it seems, but when I let out the clutch, the gears won't engage, and the car can only be revved. This comes with a clanking noise.
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I have a 96 saturn sl2. It was running ok, but recently it started to idle rough and it revs up when i change gears and then when i release the clutch it drops down and remains about 1200 rpm. Pretty much while I press on the brakes to stop, and press the clutch to get on neutral,the rpm shoots up and slowly goes back down.
Also when I start the car it feels like its revving, but my foot is on the brake and the car is on neutral.Also no matter how much I've driven it, I can go into first and 2nd gear w/out having to press the accelerator and it will start to move. the rpm will remain @ about 1000 to 1200. The check engine light is not on and the car seems to be using up more gas.
I'm considering changing the plugs and wires, gas filter to see if it s. I noticed oil leaking a little around the valve cover, so I may change that too.
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When the brake pedal is first depressed, it sounds like air is being pushed out of it, sort of like flatulence, and are less responsive. When i pump the brake, it fills with air and tightens. The brakes work when I depress the pedal all the way down. Also, I have to pull my driver-side door shut a few times before it will close and lock with the vacuum system. Otherwise it won't close. Eventually the door closes and I can lock it when I shut the door just right. (My mechanic and I are working together to find replacement locks from junk yards) Is this the master cylinder? Or could this be due to a leak in the vacuum system since my door does not readily close? Or is it something else entirely? 1978 Mercedes 240D...
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While driving, I noticed that when I floor the gas pedal to go faster, the engine revs up and takes about a second or 2 until the car accelerates. i also noticed that if i let go of the gas pedal while the engine revs then the car doesn't go any faster, it just revs then goes back to normal. Whats going on?
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I have a idle problem that happens on and off. with my 89 f250 351, it revs at 1900 rpm and when I unplug the vacuum hose to the map sensor it idles about 700 rpm. I've already replaced the map sensor and it does the same thing. i cant find any vacuum leaks anywhere and when i unplug the connector to the IAC nothing happens it continues to rev high.
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