Toyota - Landcruiser :: 2000 - Tough Time Starting When Temperature Dips Down
Dec 5, 2013
When the temperature dips below 30 degrees the vehicle has a tough time starting and in some cases won't start at all. It will crank and crank, it just won't fire...once the temperature starts to rise the engine will start fine and will be good for the rest of the day. We took it to a mechanic last year and spent $350 for a temperature sensor replacement which has proven not to be the issue!!!
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When the temperature is above freezing, the Passenger Airbag light is always "Airbag Off" and the flashing red light does NOT engage, regardless of whether a passenger is sitting in the seat and regardless of whether the seat belt is latched.
When the temperature dips below freezing, the system works as expected:
No passenger: light is "Airbag"
Passenger with seat belt: light is "Airbag On"
Passenger with no seat belt: light is "Airbag On" with red flashing seat belt sign
I can't imagine the issue is related to a component inside the passenger compartment (the seat weight or latch sensors), as the temperature inside the vehicle is usually above 60 F. That said, are there any components outside the compartment (under the car or in the engine compartment) that could be causing this behavior? Is this a water freezing/unfreezing issue, caught in some wiring somewhere?
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I've owned this Toyota Camry 2004 LE for two years now and this issue started couple of weeks ago , I the tempreture gague is always at cold , mean less than 25% . where it used to be always in the middle and at the 50% right in the middle . heat still works , have not tried AC yet , it is still in the 20-30s here in Minnesota . I am suspecting maybe a thermostat or some other heating cooling sensor somewhere .
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When I remove my foot from the accelerator, my '86 Land Cruiser makes a noticeable and resonating vibration. It generally occurs at deceleration from about 60-65mph or when I'm going down a hill, when I habitually feather the accelerator to regulate my speed regardless of the slope, and rattles the whole truck to the extent I can feel it through the back of the driver's seat. The truck has always had a certain looseness or slop in the driveline; if I'm not careful to feather the clutch release, the truck starts off in a herky-jerky motion. Yesterday, I was nosing around under the truck attempting to discover the source of the vibration. When I grasped the rear drive shaft (it has a second drive shaft for the front wheels), there is noticeable free-play of about 5-10 degrees in the shaft rotation. Is this normal for this truck?
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I drove my 2001 land cruiser into the shop after a 3 hour drive - it was making a thud noise (sometimes) when I went from stop to go. Felt like transmission. They called and said they put it on the lift and heard a thud from the transfer case, put it down, and now it cannot go in forward or reverse, just grinds. I said - I drove it in - they replied it must have just gone out when they had it.
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So, now that it's cooler out sometimes, a quirk has resurfaced, one that bugged me semi-consistently last winter.
Seems that when the mercury drops, both windows in my R start making creaky, squooshy, rattly noises... but only when they're closed all the way. Forgot about this over spring/summer. If I open them a tiny bit, they're quiet. My guess/assumption/theory is that the rubbery stuff against which the top of the glass seals (when the windows are all the way closed) has lost its flexibility over the years and sorta holds the edge of the glass in place less firmly than it's supposed to. OR it's just brittle or something and that noise is the edge of the glass rubbing on it instead of sinking into it a little. And then I get that creaky/squooshy/rattly sound. It's not all that loud, but hey on one side it's right next to my ear after all.
Wondering if:
-- this theory of mine makes sense
-- replace those pieces in the door there, for whatever reason, how hard it is to do that, and where they got replacement pieces to begin with
Searching on a few things netted me nothing on this subject.
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My Toyota land cruiser 1993 dies at low speed only turning left....ONLY leftSo, it started last year while in low turning left off road she suddenly died and I just about rolled her, but was able to turn her back on and keep going albeit in higher RPM. Now, she dies all the time when making a slow speed left turn and ONLY left turn. Also, in low she bucks and starts to die....
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I have a high-mileage 1984 Toyota Landcruiser that has the 2F engine, 6-cylinder, carburated. It's also got a manual 4-speed transmission in it.
Problem 1: When I'm driving the vehicle down the road and the engine is at temp, it kills on me as soon as I push in the clutch and take the load off the engine. I'll push in the clutch and start coasting to a stop and I'll watch the tachometer go from 2500 rpms or so and drop to the idle range (900 rpm or so) and then it will just continue on down to zero as the engine kills. Fun fact: the engine doesn't do this when it's cold! Another fun fact: when I first bought the vehicle 6 months ago, it didn't do this. I had to replace the power-steering pump right away, and in replacing it, my wrench slipped and snapped a vacuum valve. I drove it with no problems with the broken valve for a week or so before this issue started. Once it DID start, I quickly fixed the valve, and the problem has continued to get worse and worse and worse ever since then.
Problem 2: Since this thing lives off an excessively complicated vacuum system, I immediately suspected issues with the vacuum lines/valves. I went over each and every one of them, replacing old, worn, and cracked lines, and 2 bad valves. I also discovered (through my handy Haynes maintenance manual for the vehicle) that I had a HUGE vacuum leak in the form of a long metal vacuum tube that runs along the engine which was rusted completely through on one end. I sealed that up with JB Weld and let it cure...and ever since I sealed up that line, the damn thing won't hardly run. It's got NO power, it backfires, coughs, spits, and barely runs.
I had a compression check done and found low-compression in cylinders 3 & 6. I also notice a tiny little bit of coolant (antifreeze) leaking down the side of the engine block from up near the head gasket, and I've also noticed lots of steam/water vapor coming out the tailpipe, even when it's up to temp. I'm beginning to think that I have a bad head-gasket. I'm also suspecting that it could be a bad fuel pump that's cutting out...but it seems a bit beyond coincidence that it's doing it every time I take the load off the engine when it's warm!
I rebuilt the carburator, changed all the filters, did numerous repairs to the vacuum lines/valves, changed the thermostat (since that's what powers the vacuum system), verified that the fuel pump is working, etc. No luck so far.
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2004 Landcruiser excellent condition 77K. Exhaust manifold/heat shield type rattle, intermittant but >50%time. ONLY when in Drive and at Idle at 6000rpm. Goes away any higher rpm. NO rattle in Park or Neutral.
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Noticed this to be a problem with our older 2011 Accent, now with the 2012 Accent.
The car has a rough idle usually in mornings, it seems like it is going to stall at stops, it also has a tough time accelerating.
The computer scan does not show there is anything wrong until the problem becomes worse.
This is what I have discovered through the 2011 Accent. Car will stall at stops. Very inconvenient in rush hour traffic. Until they replace the Crankshaft Point Censor, the problem would not go away.
I would insist on looking at this rather than replacing sparkplugs or having any other service performed if one is experiencing these same symptoms. The good thing is it is under warranty.
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I have a 1995 Toyota Previa that is having a hard time starting up consistently. Most of the time it starts like a charm, but about 15% of the time the vehicle won't start. It will crank away, sounding like it's out of gas, but just won't start up. BUT if I wait a couple hours and try again it will start up on the first time.
Mechanics have looked at it twice now and are stumped- and of course it starts up fine when it's at the shop. A new battery and a new relay device haven't worked.
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I own a 2000 Toyota Carolla, in reasonably good shape (95,000 miles) with no rust on the body (it was a Texas car until last year). This problem happened in Texas, on the unusual times that it froze, and in Michigan, obviously very often. The car freezes: the doors edges, locks, latches, wipers, wiper fluid, windows, and trunk freeze solid. I've tried using the lock de-icers, hand sanitizer, WD-40, hairdryers, special fluid for the wipers etc. all to no avail. I live in an apartment complex so I do not have a heated garage at my disposal. This is a very annoying problem, which often means I cannot use my car, even though the rest of it works perfectly. I've searched the Internet for more answers, but find none. Clearly, there is moisture inside the car that freezes up in cold weather... but I can't imagine how or why. I've never spilled anything in there, and it's had a long, hot summer of drying out if there had been something there. But on the first freeze of the year, viola: no frigging way can I get into my beloved little auto.
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Was having some issues with my 2000 Passat not starting after only being turned off for a short period of time (long periods of time no problem). My check engine light came was on along with the Emissions Workshop message in the display. I took it in and had it serviced at my local repair shop. They said it was something with a temperature gauge or something to that effect that was causing it to lose a temp reading. Anyways, after the repair the car starts fine, runs great, the check engine light went off and so did the Emissions Workshop display. Then a few days later it came back on...still not having any issues with it starting but what's going on??
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When I drive over bumps or dips my car makes this clunking noise in the front passenger side. I just had the front brake assembly replaced as well as the engine mounts but the noise is still occurring. what could this be and would it affect my new brakes in any way?
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE I bought recently that had 45K miles on it (it has a 4spd auto with O/D).
When accelerating from a stop, I usually take it very slow and I notice that there is a slight jerk most of the time.....it's sort of like I can feel the gears engage. This doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't seem to happen if I accelerate fast.
I did a transmission drain & fill with Royal Purple MaxATF (the drain & fill was only once).
1) Is this normal for this transmission? Also, is there a "pan drop" for this transmission? The mechanic only removed the drain bolt...he did not do the pan drop.
2) During my work commute, I'm in a lot of rush hour traffic where it moves for short distances at 5-10mph. It will shift from 1st to 2nd a lot of times...is better to just put the car in 1st (L) gear? My mechanic said no because it will heat up the transmission faster.
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Every time it rains the carpet is very wet by the left drivers foot. I have cleaned out the drain behind the front wheel and used a heavy gauge plastic mono line to clean out the drain for the moon roof. Unfortunately it still becomes wet. My next area to check is the drain from the area at the bottom of the windshield. How that can be done? 2000 Camry XL....
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I noticed that it seems as though my Mk7 takes longer to reach operating temp than my mk6 TDI did. My commute to work is plenty of time to warm up (25mi) but I feel like this car is slower to warm up (but faster to get cabin heat d/t the electric heater). I just find it strange as here in MA it hasn't even been that cold yet, so I'm wondering how the car will be wen the temps dip well below freezing.
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I purchased my 92 Silverado in Dec. 2008. Since I got it the temperature control display has been blinking 'A/C' for 2 minutes after starting, than goes away. From the owner's manual and the GM service manual I realize this means there is a problem in the A/C system. I figured that it was low on refrigerant since the compressor clutch would never kick on, that and that is what it typically has been in the past with other older vehicles. After buying the retrofit 134a kit, I recovered the stuff that was in it, then proceeded to add the new stuff.
The pressure kept rising but the clutch never engaged. I looked through the GM service manual and they suggested to do the obvious. Is there power to the wires i.e. the cycling switch and the clutch positive wire. There was not. I inserted a jumper on the cycling wires figuring this would complete the circuit telling me if the switch was bad or not. With jumping the cycling switch I still had nothing, the clutch never engaged. My next thought was well maybe the internal clutch relay or the pump was shot. So I ran a jumper from the positive post of the battery, to the positive post on the clutch relay itself. Then the clutch kicked in, I sucked in the 134a and everything was working. I also did this to the cycling switch, when I added power the clutch engaged and all worked.
This tells me I have an electrical issue and the mechanical stuff should work. I don't believe that it would be the cycling switch because with it jumped it should engage the clutch of the compressor and it did not, In fact it did nothing with a jumper on the cycling wires. I assume that I have an issue elsewhere that is causing a dead spot in the system or else the cycling switch would have power to it.
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My 2004 Intrepid with 100,100 miles runs and starts fine until a temperature change occurs. When that happens, and first starting, the engine will rev up and the check engine light will come. I don't drive it for awhile and then it starts and runs fine, but the check engine light is still on. I've changed various sensors, and the throttle body assembly. Still not fixed. What could be causing this? It has a 2.7 engine.
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My husband has a 2013 Subaru Legacy, and we have noticed that on days where the temperature is below 35 degrees Fahrenheit or so, it is having trouble starting. It cranks for about 7-10 seconds prior to starting, or will not start until after a few attempts. We have owned the car for about a year, and did not notice this problem last winter.
So far, we have taken it back to the Subaru Dealer twice. The first time, they told us they found nothing wrong with the car. The second time, they tried draining and recharging the battery. Our car is still having issues starting, and we are not sure where to turn to next. Is this a known issue with Subaru Legacy? Our car is still under warranty.
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When the temperatures drop to the single digits and below, my car won't start. It won't even turn over! I turn the key and there's nothing. So, I sit in the car and then turn the key again. I wait. Then turn the key again. Within about 5-10 minutes, the car starts and its good to go! I've had a new battery installed. And even with the new battery, it does the same thing. At the shop, they check the battery and say it's fine.
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