My Toyota land cruiser 1993 dies at low speed only turning left....ONLY leftSo, it started last year while in low turning left off road she suddenly died and I just about rolled her, but was able to turn her back on and keep going albeit in higher RPM. Now, she dies all the time when making a slow speed left turn and ONLY left turn. Also, in low she bucks and starts to die....
View 3 RepliesMy 1993 Celica, 1.6, 5-speed manual left drive shaft failed and I am trying to replace it myself. I have the new part in hand, but for some reason, the inner splined shaft does not want to go all the way into the transaxle. I have tapped the rotor end of the shaft with a mallet and tried to force it in, but everything Ive tried wont work.
My car is down for the count until I can get this drive shaft back in.
My wife's car, a 2003 Buick Century, has died a couple times on her while driving. Each time has been while she was in the midst of a left turn, so I think that is relevant. Today it is a humid, raining off/on kind of day, but she says that she thinks the last time it did it was a dry day. When it dies, she pulls over, puts it in park, and restarts the car, it runs normal, no problems. She said she has turned the ignition switch off, and then starts the car, and has not tried just turning forward to start, however her daughter said that when it died on her, she could not turn it to start - she had to turn it off then back on and it started fine.
Her daughter said that she had it die once while sitting at a traffic light, so I may be off base thinking that it is related to a left turn. The car has about 155K miles on it, and the only engine work that has been done on it other than maintenance is that the catalytic converter was replaced a few years back, when it was plugged up.
On this same car, I have to spray brake cleaner on the ABS sensors (front) about every 3-4 weeks, when the ABS light and the TRAC Off lights come on. Is there some way to keep them from becoming fouled?
I just had my EGR valve and hose and DPFE sensor replaced and the truck is running better than it has in quite a while except that whenever I turn to the left and pull into a parking space it dies.
I've read that it could be a bad power steering pump. This would make sense because mine is pretty noisy when I make a left or right turn. However, it has never caused the engine to stall before. This didn't begin happening until immediately after the recent maintenance.
Is there something I should be looking for that my be related to the new EGR valve/hose or DPFE sensor?
When I remove my foot from the accelerator, my '86 Land Cruiser makes a noticeable and resonating vibration. It generally occurs at deceleration from about 60-65mph or when I'm going down a hill, when I habitually feather the accelerator to regulate my speed regardless of the slope, and rattles the whole truck to the extent I can feel it through the back of the driver's seat. The truck has always had a certain looseness or slop in the driveline; if I'm not careful to feather the clutch release, the truck starts off in a herky-jerky motion. Yesterday, I was nosing around under the truck attempting to discover the source of the vibration. When I grasped the rear drive shaft (it has a second drive shaft for the front wheels), there is noticeable free-play of about 5-10 degrees in the shaft rotation. Is this normal for this truck?
View 6 RepliesI drove my 2001 land cruiser into the shop after a 3 hour drive - it was making a thud noise (sometimes) when I went from stop to go. Felt like transmission. They called and said they put it on the lift and heard a thud from the transfer case, put it down, and now it cannot go in forward or reverse, just grinds. I said - I drove it in - they replied it must have just gone out when they had it.
View 1 RepliesI have a high-mileage 1984 Toyota Landcruiser that has the 2F engine, 6-cylinder, carburated. It's also got a manual 4-speed transmission in it.
Problem 1: When I'm driving the vehicle down the road and the engine is at temp, it kills on me as soon as I push in the clutch and take the load off the engine. I'll push in the clutch and start coasting to a stop and I'll watch the tachometer go from 2500 rpms or so and drop to the idle range (900 rpm or so) and then it will just continue on down to zero as the engine kills. Fun fact: the engine doesn't do this when it's cold! Another fun fact: when I first bought the vehicle 6 months ago, it didn't do this. I had to replace the power-steering pump right away, and in replacing it, my wrench slipped and snapped a vacuum valve. I drove it with no problems with the broken valve for a week or so before this issue started. Once it DID start, I quickly fixed the valve, and the problem has continued to get worse and worse and worse ever since then.
Problem 2: Since this thing lives off an excessively complicated vacuum system, I immediately suspected issues with the vacuum lines/valves. I went over each and every one of them, replacing old, worn, and cracked lines, and 2 bad valves. I also discovered (through my handy Haynes maintenance manual for the vehicle) that I had a HUGE vacuum leak in the form of a long metal vacuum tube that runs along the engine which was rusted completely through on one end. I sealed that up with JB Weld and let it cure...and ever since I sealed up that line, the damn thing won't hardly run. It's got NO power, it backfires, coughs, spits, and barely runs.
I had a compression check done and found low-compression in cylinders 3 & 6. I also notice a tiny little bit of coolant (antifreeze) leaking down the side of the engine block from up near the head gasket, and I've also noticed lots of steam/water vapor coming out the tailpipe, even when it's up to temp. I'm beginning to think that I have a bad head-gasket. I'm also suspecting that it could be a bad fuel pump that's cutting out...but it seems a bit beyond coincidence that it's doing it every time I take the load off the engine when it's warm!
I rebuilt the carburator, changed all the filters, did numerous repairs to the vacuum lines/valves, changed the thermostat (since that's what powers the vacuum system), verified that the fuel pump is working, etc. No luck so far.
When the temperature dips below 30 degrees the vehicle has a tough time starting and in some cases won't start at all. It will crank and crank, it just won't fire...once the temperature starts to rise the engine will start fine and will be good for the rest of the day. We took it to a mechanic last year and spent $350 for a temperature sensor replacement which has proven not to be the issue!!!
View 3 Replies2004 Landcruiser excellent condition 77K. Exhaust manifold/heat shield type rattle, intermittant but >50%time. ONLY when in Drive and at Idle at 6000rpm. Goes away any higher rpm. NO rattle in Park or Neutral.
View 8 RepliesWhen I go to start my car in the morning the first 5-6 times I turn it over, doesn't start, than it starts than dies out about 3 times than it will keep a idle, but if I press the gas pedal when it starts to idle it always dies out but if I let it warm up when it starts to idle it doesn't die out? If I drive it and shut it off as long as the engine is warm it starts right up..
View 4 RepliesI know from what I've read that this tsb should have been addressed on my vehical (04 V8 early vin). The car has had two previous owners and the 2nd purchased as vw certified. I bought the Treg when it had been certified again 18 months later, so why does this "binding" due to the stepper motor software still exist after all tsb's have been performed
Its happened twice in three weeks now........when you shut down and start again everything is ok.
Got the stabilizer bar recall done in February and have been on a couple of long trips since then. No real issues until about a week ago I noticed at low speed, when turning left, and usually if there was a small bump or incline........like turning into my driveway, there would be a popping/grinding sound. It could happen at speed, but never heard anything. I go last night to install some ECS cross drilled and slotted rotors and flush spacer kit and noticed this on the left front....
Well honestly I noticed first that I needed to wash my car, just got back from the beach and it has been raining here, but is this installed correctly. The bar is bent near the top, easier to see in person and I am fairly positive this is not correct. Called the dealership and they are going to check it out Monda. The picture below is of a left front on a MK7 and it appears to be the correct.
So yet I found out about another common issue but not that publicized. This is the grinding sound when turning at full lock (left or right) in slow speed. I've read several people in the forum who has encountered this. I read different remedies but the most common one is to have the CV boots lubricated.
I have a 2014 Wolfsburg with almost 5k miles. I am really now worrying about my water pump crapping out on me but I heard this grinding sound yesterday.
I have 2010 toyota corolla le japan made, some time I turning left I hear the knocking noise. I already change wheel bearing both side, the strut also both side, the passenger side axle replace the cv boot 2 time with regrease since 2012 jan and left side axle change the whole new axle since 2011 jan , my driver side outer tie are changed since 2014 nov, the mechanic look at the suspension that is not leaking on every suspension parts. so what could be the noise from. I guess may be is the passenger side axle or right outter tie rod , or internal tie rod or ball joint. could you tell me what would be the noise come from or how to check. I have 220k mile with bad burning oil like 1k mile drive have to add 5w20 half quar to 1 quar. how to solve to reduce burn oil and the engine seal is not leak.
View 19 RepliesI have an 08 RAV4 that has an issue when turning left and right and sometimes when taking off from a rolling stop. It seems that the body and engine want to move but the tires do not. I have taken the vehicle to 4 mechanics including dealership and everyone says the transmission is fine, axles and joints are supposed to be fine as well as drive train. I currently have about 25000 miles left on a warranty and don't want to lose the use of the warranty.
View 9 RepliesI have an '02 Camry with 82,000 miles. I recently noticed a clicking from the front left wheel starting at 68-70 mph. The click varies in frequency with slight bumps in the road. It seems to stop if I touch the brakes, and it might get less if the road turns enough to increase the G force (not too many times on highway going this speed on a curvy road, so I'm not sure.) It never happens under 65 mph.
We recently had local flooding and I drove through about 8 inches of water. The noise was a few days later in dry weather at 80 degrees. It did not occur when the car was starting off cool, but not until I was driving for about 5-10 minutes. The tire and wheel look OK, but it has not been on a lift nor have I been to a mechanic yet. I don't want to get talked into expensive repairs that I don't need, but I don't want to put off something now that is dangerous or will turn into a bigger expense later.
I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna. At first I noticed that the dashboard light showing the left turn signal was on would light up when I put on the headlights. A few days later, I discovered that the left turn signal stops working when I apply the break. Also, when I'm using cruise control and use my left turn signal, the cruise control stops maintaining speed.
View 2 RepliesSo the problem began with the car not wanting to start up. It would usually get going by the second try but after about a week, my '93 Honda Accord would kind of sputter for a second then die except now the check engine light would come on and I would hear this clicking noise from behind the dash. At this point I would turn the car off, remove the key and try again with the result being either: the engine turns over, the same clicking noise happens, or I end up grinding the starter for 10/15 sec.
More recently the problem has extended to while the car is moving. In the past week the engine will suddenly cut out. I could be backing out of my driveway, taking a turn at 5 mph or driving on the highway, and it will suddenly cut out. Sometimes the engine death is preceded by a drop in rpm, and sometime if i can push in the clutch fast enough the car doesn't die. Beyond that I have no clue.
I recently replaced the master relay and the ignition switch. I also had a new timing belt put in by a mechanic only 5k miles ago. At that time he said that it should last me another 50k miles no problem. It's a '93 Honda Accord LX, 4-cylinder manual transmission.
I can't really afford another mechanic visit right now. One friend thought it might be the alternator, and another scoffed at the notion. I know just enough to follow directions and fix what needs to be fixed, but I'm no good at diagnosing car problems.
Just acquired this car with 130k. The previous owner owned this car all throughout college and dumped an obscene amount of money into it for what it is. I have a stack of receipts and work orders several inches high that came with the car, with every single oil change nut and bolt this guy bought for it. It was sitting in his driveway for several months because couldn't get the thing running...it just stopped out of nowhere. He decided to part with it since he is working full time and has a wife and child to support.
The work that has been done from previous owner. All of this has been done in the past 2-4 years:
Fuel system: gas tank drained and cleaned out, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, new injectors.Ignition: distributor, distributor cap & rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires. Coil is still original.Electrical: O2 sensor, ECM coolant temperature sensor, ECM (mom and pop shop replaced it with a junkyard unit from a different car, not 100% compatible with a 93 Excel).Engine: cylinder head rebuild, timing belt and components replaced.Misc: thermostat, coolant hoses, PCV valve, all vacuum hoses replaced, brand new exhaust from the converter back, converter has been hollowed out, new struts/shocks, tons of front end work, tires, MAF cleaned with appropriate cleaner, etc.
Here's what I have done:I replaced the throttle position sensor, replaced the air filter (it had a K&N that did not fit right), replaced the idle control servo, and also replaced the ECM with the correct one. Also replaced fuel filter, all fusible links, and the relay box for the fuel system. I've tested the TPS circuit extensively and it checks out both on the sensor side and ECM side. Also there is a TSB for a bad ground which would cause the TPS and motor position sensor circuits to mess up, but I have already checked them and they were fine.
Previous owner replaced a ton of parts, I can get the car to start and idle without much incident but as soon as you give it any throttle it gurgles pops and dies.
2010 F-150 King Ranch. Randomly when turning left, it feels like the left front brake is engaging and it sounds like your anti-lock brakes when you come to a stop on slush or snow. The truck slows with your foot still on the gas, Saturday it came to a complete stop before it released.
I have had it to 2 Ford dealerships, the first could not get the symptom to occur on a test drive and told me there was nothing they could do because they did not now what to look at.
The dealer I bought it from got it to act up, replaced the IWE 2 weeks ago and 3 days later was still doing same thing. My wife dropped the truck at the dealer again Weds.morning, she told them it did it on the way there. I called at 4:30 to check and they said they drove it 2 times and it did not act up.
I have a 1993 corolla that runs fine once warm. The problem is a cold idle problem. When starting it cold, it dies unless you feather the throttle. I can keep it running by feathering the throttle until it warms up. Once warm it runs fine. If I let off of the throttle at all during the warmup period, it dies instantly. How does the choke work on these vehicles? Could it be a IACV problem? Anything else it could be?
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