Toyota - Landcruiser :: 1986 - Resonating Vibration When Decelerate From About 60 To 65 Mph
May 4, 2014
When I remove my foot from the accelerator, my '86 Land Cruiser makes a noticeable and resonating vibration. It generally occurs at deceleration from about 60-65mph or when I'm going down a hill, when I habitually feather the accelerator to regulate my speed regardless of the slope, and rattles the whole truck to the extent I can feel it through the back of the driver's seat. The truck has always had a certain looseness or slop in the driveline; if I'm not careful to feather the clutch release, the truck starts off in a herky-jerky motion. Yesterday, I was nosing around under the truck attempting to discover the source of the vibration. When I grasped the rear drive shaft (it has a second drive shaft for the front wheels), there is noticeable free-play of about 5-10 degrees in the shaft rotation. Is this normal for this truck?
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I drove my 2001 land cruiser into the shop after a 3 hour drive - it was making a thud noise (sometimes) when I went from stop to go. Felt like transmission. They called and said they put it on the lift and heard a thud from the transfer case, put it down, and now it cannot go in forward or reverse, just grinds. I said - I drove it in - they replied it must have just gone out when they had it.
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My Toyota land cruiser 1993 dies at low speed only turning left....ONLY leftSo, it started last year while in low turning left off road she suddenly died and I just about rolled her, but was able to turn her back on and keep going albeit in higher RPM. Now, she dies all the time when making a slow speed left turn and ONLY left turn. Also, in low she bucks and starts to die....
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I have a high-mileage 1984 Toyota Landcruiser that has the 2F engine, 6-cylinder, carburated. It's also got a manual 4-speed transmission in it.
Problem 1: When I'm driving the vehicle down the road and the engine is at temp, it kills on me as soon as I push in the clutch and take the load off the engine. I'll push in the clutch and start coasting to a stop and I'll watch the tachometer go from 2500 rpms or so and drop to the idle range (900 rpm or so) and then it will just continue on down to zero as the engine kills. Fun fact: the engine doesn't do this when it's cold! Another fun fact: when I first bought the vehicle 6 months ago, it didn't do this. I had to replace the power-steering pump right away, and in replacing it, my wrench slipped and snapped a vacuum valve. I drove it with no problems with the broken valve for a week or so before this issue started. Once it DID start, I quickly fixed the valve, and the problem has continued to get worse and worse and worse ever since then.
Problem 2: Since this thing lives off an excessively complicated vacuum system, I immediately suspected issues with the vacuum lines/valves. I went over each and every one of them, replacing old, worn, and cracked lines, and 2 bad valves. I also discovered (through my handy Haynes maintenance manual for the vehicle) that I had a HUGE vacuum leak in the form of a long metal vacuum tube that runs along the engine which was rusted completely through on one end. I sealed that up with JB Weld and let it cure...and ever since I sealed up that line, the damn thing won't hardly run. It's got NO power, it backfires, coughs, spits, and barely runs.
I had a compression check done and found low-compression in cylinders 3 & 6. I also notice a tiny little bit of coolant (antifreeze) leaking down the side of the engine block from up near the head gasket, and I've also noticed lots of steam/water vapor coming out the tailpipe, even when it's up to temp. I'm beginning to think that I have a bad head-gasket. I'm also suspecting that it could be a bad fuel pump that's cutting out...but it seems a bit beyond coincidence that it's doing it every time I take the load off the engine when it's warm!
I rebuilt the carburator, changed all the filters, did numerous repairs to the vacuum lines/valves, changed the thermostat (since that's what powers the vacuum system), verified that the fuel pump is working, etc. No luck so far.
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When the temperature dips below 30 degrees the vehicle has a tough time starting and in some cases won't start at all. It will crank and crank, it just won't fire...once the temperature starts to rise the engine will start fine and will be good for the rest of the day. We took it to a mechanic last year and spent $350 for a temperature sensor replacement which has proven not to be the issue!!!
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2004 Landcruiser excellent condition 77K. Exhaust manifold/heat shield type rattle, intermittant but >50%time. ONLY when in Drive and at Idle at 6000rpm. Goes away any higher rpm. NO rattle in Park or Neutral.
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I have 2011 Sonata Limited 2.4L I have a rattle that seems to come from the engine compartment near/thru the dash/driver area. I am getting pretty good at replicating the issue. When I accelerate or decelerate thru 1500 - 1700 rpm the rattel/vibration happens. If I can continue to keep the same rpm level the rattle remains. It tends to be even more frequent when the AC is on. I have had the dealer look at 2-3 times and they cannot seem to remedy the problem.
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My 2000 Toyota Corolla, automatic, loses power when I decelerate after driving for a short distance when I am entering the freeway and trying to accelerate on the ramp and then into traffic. The car never dies or turns off, but loses power and "coasts"; as I coast along and try to get out of the traffic, I press the accelerator pedal almost to the floor and within 5-10 seconds the car will roar to life and accelerate like it's getting all the power it needs. That's usually the end of it for that day...however, there is often some hesitation as I continue driving. This doesn't happen all the time, but almost always when it's been outside all day and the temperature has been at freezing or below...usually when my car has sat all day while I'm at work. My mechanic hasn't had time to look at it yet but has suggested perhaps a bad switch of some kind or maybe a dirty switch. Also, this may be unrelated, but often before this happens the brake light will sometimes come on and stay on...even though the brake isn't on, nor has it been on while parked. This never has happened in the mornings after my car has been in the garage all night.
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I have had my Corolla LE since October 2011, there has been no maintenance issues whatsoever with it, and it has 65K miles on it. Up until September it was a solid, quiet ride, and with the passing two months, what started to be a quiet vibration, has grown louder and louder. At first I thought it was something inside one of my storage compartments rattling, and then I thought it was the blower, only noticing the sound when I turned on the heat. Now, it makes noise when I accelerate, decelerate, at a complete stop (with the car still on). I read another post about it might be the heat shield, and I was convinced previous to reading that that it was something exhaust-related. But, I'm not sure. This noise has gotten louder, isn't consistent with any function of the car, it appears to be random, but the noise is still the same, the quick "drr, drr, drr" noise, truly a rapid gunfire sound.
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I have 1986 Gold Corvette, which now has Antique Virginia Plates. I had a terrible Vibration at 65 - 75 MPH that would shake the car so bad I could not drive it more than 20 minutes and I could not tell if it was in the front or the back.
I had the following installed: Front and Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly (Timken), Front and Rear Brake Rotors, Front and Rear Rebuilt Calipers, Front and Rear Hawk/ Wellman HPS Brake Pads and four Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
Now the vibration is about half-gone, but still shakes the GoldVette at 65 - 75 MPH, and I still cannot tell if it is in the front or the back.
A few years ago, I replaced the Rack-in-pinion and Tie Rod Ends. What do I replace next to eliminate the vibration so that I can drive it about 100 miles?
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I have a problem with my 1986 Toyota 4X4 pickup for over four years now,the problem is a noise from the front end that occurs when hubs are in Locked position a loud humming that comes and goes, I can hit the brakes hard and it goes away for a few seconds, I can hit a bump and it goes away for a few seconds, I can take a sharp turn and it goes away for a few seconds. This woowoowoo or hum only happens when the hubs are locked not when they are in the free position, I cannot shift in 4wd and make it go away for a few seconds, the noise gets worse the faster I go, it also gets worse the colder the weather is. I have replaced the axles twice and the front diff once and still has a noise, I have checked the wheel bearings for play and they are fine, I have repacked the hubs with fresh grease, the sound, sounds like metal to metal friction.
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I have a 1986 Toyota pickup. It's small 2 wheel drive with a stick shift. 6 weeks ago, it started lugging very slightly on hills after I had first started the car (only in the first 5 minutes of driving). Then that stopped, and now it loses power on hills so that I have to keep shifting down and going slower until I'm chugging uphill in 2nd gear at 30 mph. It only happens on long hills with a sustained uphill; smaller ones it keeps speed and power fine.
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When adjusting valves on a 1986 22RE Toyota engine, the manual says to adjust intake to .008 and exhaust to .011 when the engine is "hot". I was doing some research and it seems to be a somewhat common practice to adjust valves on these engines to .007 intake and .011 exhaust when the engine is cold. The explanation being that the clearances will open up some when the engine warms up or gets to "hot". I always thought the clearances would get tighter as the engine warmed up but my "knowledge" is based on traditional pushrod engines and this is an overhead cam engine. If adjusted cold, will the clearances get smaller or larger when the engine is hot? And is it ok to adjust the valves cold? And how hot is correct amount of hot if I adjust them according to the manual?
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My '86 Toy overheated, I added coolant and oil and it worked fine on one short trip. The next time I tried to start it, the starter cranks and cranks, no start and air bubbles are going into coolant reservoir. What's wrong? Mechanic pushing new engine, but it ran fine after overheating. I don't believe I need an engine.
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So we have had problems with the starter (and flywheel?) since we acquired the truck, these problems being that when we would go to start the car, it would make a horrible "grinding" noise a few times, but would eventually start up. Recently, the car would not start at all, and made no noise when the key was turned. Called AAA, they gave us a jump, and the truck started again. Assuming the problem was then with the battery, we replaced it as well as both terminals. The truck would still not start after doing this, no noise at all when key turned. My questions then would be, if the battery is not the problem, why did the truck start after we had a jump? I'm thinking it might be the starter, and if the starter was shot, would the truck have no sign of life when the ignition was turned on? Should i try and change the starter or is there possibly another variable? 1986 auto Toyota Pickup....
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I have a 1986 Toyota Camry. I drove it for a year with no additional problems than when I bought it. I replaced the clutch when I bought it. However, It recently has had a new problem. The clutch pedal is going directly to the floor with no effort whatsoever. When this happened in the past it was simply out of clutch fluid, I was aware of the leak when I bought the car. Now it doesn't seem to be using any at all and I can only put it in gear when it is turned off.
I have replaced the clutch master cylinder myself and it didn't seem to solve the problem. I have tried to bleed the new master cylinder but no fluid is being drawn into the master cylinder from the fill cup on the top of it. I'm not even sure that this is the problem. I noticed that the place where the MC is attached to the clutch pedal is adjustable. Could this be a matter of adjusting this to drive the plunger inside the MC all the way forward? I am also having trouble understanding the whole clutch system. The MC doesn't seem to have anything to do with engaging or disengaging the clutch. The only thing it attaches to is the clutch pedal. Where does the clutch fluid go? Is there another place to fill Manual transmission fluid?
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Issues with my '86 Toyota MR2... So, I just recently bought this car earlier this year and it's always seemed to be giving me problems. One of the major ones is that the engine is always dying. When it first did this a couple times after I bought it, my dad and I assumed it was the alternator(we figured it couldn't be the battery because the battery that was in it was relatively new, but we took it to Auto Zone to check the volts on it anyways, and it was all good; we did get the alternator checked also and the guy said it was the alternator), so, we bought a new alternator and my dad and I replaced it. About a week or two later, it started back up with the issue. Whether I was stopped at a red light, slowing down, or making a turn, the engine would die. So, whenever I'm at a red light, I'll put the E-brakes on or put the car in neutral and just get the RPMs up, but shortly after I rev it up, it'll stall. And I try pushing the clutch in all the way, majority of the time, it doesn't make a difference and dies anyway.
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Problem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
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B6 manual, after 20k miles with Dunlop Sport Maxx 235-40-18 tires (still pleny of tread left, even on fronts) a moderately loud humming noise has developed, loudest at 35 mph but even heard at 10mph, with an irritating resonance of subwoofer-type. Noise changes somewhat with road surface, but not much. Not related to engine speed, gearbox, or radio. My next step will be to swap wheels.
For now, any thoughts as to the cause?
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I installed a CAI (CTS Motorsports) and I'm hearing some sort of resonating humming while driving. I also installed a 3'' turbo back exhaust (SPM) and did APR stage 2 tuning. I did not do everything at once, the CAI was installed 3 weeks prior to any other install on my car. I've been hearing that annoying hum ever since I installed the CAI. The humming doesn't happen when drive normally, shift and slowly increase the throttle, but when I stomp on the gas I hear it every gear shift around 3000 to 5000 rpm. When I mash on the gas and shift, it hums only for a short period of time until i shift again. I don't think its a high speed hum issue. I can easily do 120 and not hear a thing, but when i rev at high rpm's I hear that resonating hum.
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I took ownerhip of my R32 last week, there are a couple of things that I have noticed that I need to sort out.
1. There is a resonating sound at low speed from the rear boot trim, right where the rear windscreen wiper is, I can also make it happen when the boot is open by flicking the trim, is it loose, or what, is this a common problem..? Do I need to remove the trim and fix something...?
2. There is a black box under the driver seat with some electronics in it, I am dammned if I can get the lid to go back on properly, I have had a look and can't see any plastic Tabs broken, but it won't go back on properly, just keeps falling off...I have long legs so my seat is nearly as far back as it will go for me to drive, so this box is exposed, I need to get this on properly.
3. The cupholder thing down between the driver and passenger seat, there is a sliding lid on it, it is stuck half open (or closed..!?) and I can't get it open or closed, how th heck do I get at this to fix it...?
4. I will be looking what version Firmware the RNS 510 / MFD2 is, I am also looking for iphone integration, I have blue tooth for calls, and Sat Nav and the bigger display MFD....and would like to control the phone / tunes with the steering wheel, and see the track info in the MFD.
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