Toyota - Landcruiser :: 1986 - Resonating Vibration When Decelerate From About 60 To 65 Mph


May 4, 2014

When I remove my foot from the accelerator, my '86 Land Cruiser makes a noticeable and resonating vibration. It generally occurs at deceleration from about 60-65mph or when I'm going down a hill, when I habitually feather the accelerator to regulate my speed regardless of the slope, and rattles the whole truck to the extent I can feel it through the back of the driver's seat. The truck has always had a certain looseness or slop in the driveline; if I'm not careful to feather the clutch release, the truck starts off in a herky-jerky motion. Yesterday, I was nosing around under the truck attempting to discover the source of the vibration. When I grasped the rear drive shaft (it has a second drive shaft for the front wheels), there is noticeable free-play of about 5-10 degrees in the shaft rotation. Is this normal for this truck?

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Problem 1: When I'm driving the vehicle down the road and the engine is at temp, it kills on me as soon as I push in the clutch and take the load off the engine. I'll push in the clutch and start coasting to a stop and I'll watch the tachometer go from 2500 rpms or so and drop to the idle range (900 rpm or so) and then it will just continue on down to zero as the engine kills. Fun fact: the engine doesn't do this when it's cold! Another fun fact: when I first bought the vehicle 6 months ago, it didn't do this. I had to replace the power-steering pump right away, and in replacing it, my wrench slipped and snapped a vacuum valve. I drove it with no problems with the broken valve for a week or so before this issue started. Once it DID start, I quickly fixed the valve, and the problem has continued to get worse and worse and worse ever since then.

Problem 2: Since this thing lives off an excessively complicated vacuum system, I immediately suspected issues with the vacuum lines/valves. I went over each and every one of them, replacing old, worn, and cracked lines, and 2 bad valves. I also discovered (through my handy Haynes maintenance manual for the vehicle) that I had a HUGE vacuum leak in the form of a long metal vacuum tube that runs along the engine which was rusted completely through on one end. I sealed that up with JB Weld and let it cure...and ever since I sealed up that line, the damn thing won't hardly run. It's got NO power, it backfires, coughs, spits, and barely runs.

I had a compression check done and found low-compression in cylinders 3 & 6. I also notice a tiny little bit of coolant (antifreeze) leaking down the side of the engine block from up near the head gasket, and I've also noticed lots of steam/water vapor coming out the tailpipe, even when it's up to temp. I'm beginning to think that I have a bad head-gasket. I'm also suspecting that it could be a bad fuel pump that's cutting out...but it seems a bit beyond coincidence that it's doing it every time I take the load off the engine when it's warm!

I rebuilt the carburator, changed all the filters, did numerous repairs to the vacuum lines/valves, changed the thermostat (since that's what powers the vacuum system), verified that the fuel pump is working, etc. No luck so far.

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Chevrolet - Corvette :: 1986 - Vibration And Shaking At 65 - 75 Mph

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Toyota - Camry :: 1986 - Clutch Pedal Is Going Directly To The Floor With No Effort

I have a 1986 Toyota Camry. I drove it for a year with no additional problems than when I bought it. I replaced the clutch when I bought it. However, It recently has had a new problem. The clutch pedal is going directly to the floor with no effort whatsoever. When this happened in the past it was simply out of clutch fluid, I was aware of the leak when I bought the car. Now it doesn't seem to be using any at all and I can only put it in gear when it is turned off.

I have replaced the clutch master cylinder myself and it didn't seem to solve the problem. I have tried to bleed the new master cylinder but no fluid is being drawn into the master cylinder from the fill cup on the top of it. I'm not even sure that this is the problem. I noticed that the place where the MC is attached to the clutch pedal is adjustable. Could this be a matter of adjusting this to drive the plunger inside the MC all the way forward? I am also having trouble understanding the whole clutch system. The MC doesn't seem to have anything to do with engaging or disengaging the clutch. The only thing it attaches to is the clutch pedal. Where does the clutch fluid go? Is there another place to fill Manual transmission fluid?

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Issues with my '86 Toyota MR2... So, I just recently bought this car earlier this year and it's always seemed to be giving me problems. One of the major ones is that the engine is always dying. When it first did this a couple times after I bought it, my dad and I assumed it was the alternator(we figured it couldn't be the battery because the battery that was in it was relatively new, but we took it to Auto Zone to check the volts on it anyways, and it was all good; we did get the alternator checked also and the guy said it was the alternator), so, we bought a new alternator and my dad and I replaced it. About a week or two later, it started back up with the issue. Whether I was stopped at a red light, slowing down, or making a turn, the engine would die. So, whenever I'm at a red light, I'll put the E-brakes on or put the car in neutral and just get the RPMs up, but shortly after I rev it up, it'll stall. And I try pushing the clutch in all the way, majority of the time, it doesn't make a difference and dies anyway.

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When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.

The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.

We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.

h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.

1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.

(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."

Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.

The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.

So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?

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For now, any thoughts as to the cause?

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1. There is a resonating sound at low speed from the rear boot trim, right where the rear windscreen wiper is, I can also make it happen when the boot is open by flicking the trim, is it loose, or what, is this a common problem..? Do I need to remove the trim and fix something...?

2. There is a black box under the driver seat with some electronics in it, I am dammned if I can get the lid to go back on properly, I have had a look and can't see any plastic Tabs broken, but it won't go back on properly, just keeps falling off...I have long legs so my seat is nearly as far back as it will go for me to drive, so this box is exposed, I need to get this on properly.

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