Toyota - Highlanderhybrid :: Water Accumulated Beneath The Clear Lens Covering Headlamp Assembly
Apr 17, 2012
I've noticed water accumulated beneath the clear lens covering my headlamp assembly in my 2007 Toyota Highlander Hybrid headlamp. The dealer says the entire lamp assembly needs to be replaced. It seems this should be a simple gasket issue with the clear lens cover.
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2005 Toyota Sienna minivan. Neighbor brings it by my house for a headlamp bulb.Rt head lamp low beam is out. Access is easy with the hood open.Rt Headlamp lens housing has moisture inside, left does not.Bulb is not broken or shatterd, it is in one piece.Before we spend $76 for an HID bulb, I have questions on the HID system. Is it that simple..just a bulb..or is there electronic controls involved that could be the culprit?Did the moisture take out the bulb in the first place ? ( halogen bulbs explode when wet ) or cause a chort in the electronics ? I already told her we need to take out the lens body and find and seal the leak and dry it out but I'm curious about the HID system.Do I dare just put 12v to the bulb ( #D2R 35w ) to test it or is that a bad idea with HID ?....( my best Ford tech to ask is off today )
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On the hood, just beyond the 3M plastic covering is a small, silver-dollar sized area where the clear coat on the paint has begun to deteriorate and peel back leaving the paint exposed.
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My two month old Touareg has a leak! After driving in a heavy rain water accumulated on the front passenger floor. It looks like its coming from the ventilation duct behind the glove box or possibly through the firewall.
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How do you remove and reinstall just the lens in the rear light assembly in 2002 SC430 ? I can see that it probably just snaps out using a screwdriver as a pry tool but want to be sure !
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Last night I broke the tail light at the grocery store... I came out and there was a line of carts behind my car that a parking lot attendant was collecting. I added my cart to the end and went to shove them all out of the way, and he yells to me, "I got it! I got it!" so I leave them, get into my car, see him go past with a bunch of carts & back up. What this will run? Can I just replace the lens or do I have to replace the whole assembly? And is this something I can easily enough swap out myself?
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OnApril 3, 2014, I purchased a 2007 Lexus RX350 with 60,000 miles. It was first driven in June or July of 2006, and I was told by numerous Lexus owners that Lexus was absolutely great about any problems I might have, Lexus was fabulous about putting customer service and care first.
Sometime in mid-July, when my mechanic was changing the oil, he noticed the rack and pinion steering were leaking. I did some research and discovered the leak was relatively common in the 2007 RX350 Lexus and most owners found they didn't need to do anything about the leak unless it was severe. I chose not to fix it at that time.
In late November, early December 2015, I noticed condensation behind both headlamp lenses. The headlamp on the driver's side was beginning to rust and the ballast had already been ruined. To fix the headlamps would require a full headlamp assembly. I called a local dealership and was told there was a voluntary recall or warranty. I don't remember the exact words.
Really? Six (6) months too late for a vehicle that had 60,000 miles on it. Now a car that I've had less than two (2) years currently with 80,000 miles, will require several thousand dollars to fix the headlamps.
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When I took my 4WD Highlander Hybrid in for an alignment, they said there was a problem that kept them from aligning one wheel. Assuming they did the other 3, can the one remaining wheel be aligned when the wheel is fixed? Or do they all have to be redone?
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A couple of weeks ago I went to the gas station and was unable to fill the tank as the pump kept clicking off. I assumed it was a problem with the pump. Because I was in a hurry, I left and stopped at another station later in the day. I was able to pump 11 gallons into the tank, but the gauge still registered near empty. The local dealer told us it was a problem with the gauge and replaced a sending unit. This appeared to fix the problem, but yesterday morning when I stopped at the gas station, I was only able to pump 2 gallons because the pump kept clicking off. The gauge reads about 1/4 tank.
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I have a 2000 CRV with 95,000 miles. In a heavy rain I get water leakage on my driver's side floor. Have had a new windshield installed but it still leaks. Plan to keep vehicle for 2-3 years more.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid 4WD. Whenever I apply the brake pedal past a certain point, I hear some sort of clunking type of noise from the front of the car. The noise can be done when braking hard, or even if I am at a stop and just press the pedal down hard. It sounds bad but I have not noticed any issues in braking performance. Everything is stock, brake pads have 60-70% as of my last serving. What this is and if I need to be concerned?
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It doesn't look like the lens is separable from the headlamp assembly?
I think while very thoroughly washing the car and engine compartment after purchase, I must have gotten water into the assembly - maybe from the back side ... should I just wait it out?
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Looking for post with instructions on how to clear the drain ports for sunroof and any cavities that collects water such as in engine compartment where brake master cylinder is located.
Tried to look for front sunroof ports... cannot see it. Discovered that I have about 3/4" of water still trapped under the master cylinder area... cannot find the drainports underneath it. Probably have to use a wire to poke through from top.
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You will get wet but not scalded but is nice to get it done and not that hard. (revised).
1; Pull the cap, bottom hose, and open the petcock on a cold engine.
2; Remove the thermostat with a 10mm socket (easy) and put the housing back on lightly.
3; Install garden hose in top and turn on full blast, and turn the heater on.
4; Start the engine, grab the hanging bottom hose and push it onto the bottom radiator neck about 1/4", wait a couple minutes until the garden hose overflows at the top of the plastic radiator chamber. (yes you will get wet), pull the bottom hose loose, repeat 3-4 times until the dirty water is scavenged from the block and rad. (important step).
5; Shut off water at garden hose, stop the engine, replace the bottom hose and replace the thermostat with the 195 degree one (stock) if it hasn't been done lately. (they don't last and work well forever) The rubber O-ring goes on the top.
6; Start the engine and run the garden hose at the top the same speed as the water is coming out the petcock at the bottom. Note how clear the water is coming out and idle the engine until is runs clear. (about 10 minutes). The water might get hot at this time but you're not under the truck at this point.
7; Stop the engine, close the petcock, remove the heater hose from the front of the intake manifold, put 3 to 4 gallons of undiluted antifreeze in (50% undiluted antifreeze 50/50 will give you a range of 34 degrees BELOW zero to +265 degrees F) , fill with distilled water until the water comes out the pipe fitting on the manifold, replace hose, fill to line, and check the level every day for the next 2-3 days.
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My blower assembly (not at the blower but in the box below it) is filling up with water. Any way to look into besides drilling a hole in the bottom of the box?
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I bought my 2004 toyota tundra limited addition brand new it has 310000 miles. It runs like brand new. The only things to complain about is the paint and piston slap. My paint faded and clear coat started peeling 6 years ago. I notice piston slap 6 to 7 years ago. Runs like brand new. Open the hood no leaks not dirty very clean. I've maintained this vehical from day one it serves me well hoping it will out live me. I don't see to many 04/05 on the streets.
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I have a 2009 Toyota RAV 4, it has about 53,000 miles and I am the original owner. About 4 days ago my husband drove the car home from a trip to town, and I commented there was a clear thick oil leaking from all 4 tire wells. He pointed out it some of it had started before he left, but when he came home, it was worse. It continued to leak, but seemed to slow down.We brought it to the Toyota dealer and they have had it two days. They claim the drove the car, and let it sit overnight and they don't find anything or see any more leak. My husband cleaned the floor, and now we have four giant oil stains on the garage floor, it looks like someone spilled mineral oil or another clear oil.
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I ran over a rather large pot hole while driving home in the middle of the night. It destroyed my tire and tire sidewall and soon after the strut started to make a knocking noise while going over bumps. I replaced both front strut assemblies with Monroe Quick Struts (photo attached). After the install, the noise was gone and everything seemed good so I gave the car to my wife. After several months, I decided to drive the car to see if everything was still OK and it wasn't. The knocking noise on the driver front strut came back.
I took the car back to my mechanic and he said that he thinks the strut assembly was defective and that I should get a replacement since it was under warranty. I would just pay labor again for him to change it. Something seemed off by the conversation, so I decided to take the car to another mechanic for a second opinion, but before I do that I want to pose this question here. What could be the problem? Why did the knocking noise come back?
I've attached more photos. You will see two photos of the tops of the strut assemblies from under the hood. The first top photo is of the passenger left strut that is good (with the wheels straight). The second top photo is of the problematic driver front strut. You can see the top is slanted left with the wheels straight. The rest of the photos are from around the driver side wheel.
I did complete a wheel alignment after the install and the car pulls left when the steering wheel is straight after the alignment.
More information about the Monroe Quick Strut: [URL] .....
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I need to find out the torque on the bolts that hold the caliper braket in place in the front of a 2004 corolla. My library does not have chiltons available. where else can i get that info?
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Several weeks ago someone backed into my '97 RAV4 in a parking lot. Body shop charged around $900 for the repair (estimate indicates labor for both headlights, but doesn't look like they replaced them). This afternoon one of the low beam headlights burned out. I went to change both sides just to be safe. On both headlight assemblies, grasping the wire assemblies to the low beam bulbs, the headlight assembly on both the left and right side is loose within its housing. I've changed the bulbs in the past, this is something new. Take it back to the body shop? What happened????
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I'm just wondering if two recent events are related ..
On my 2006 Prius (w/ 198,000 miles), the oil cap worked its way off on a recent road trip. It probably ran like that for 30 minutes or so before I smelt the oil and pulled over.
When I checked it, the oil cap was on top of the engine and the engine and inside of the engine compartment was covered in oil spray.
I replaced the oil cap and wiped down the threading on the engine and snuggled it down. The engine itself was about 1/2 quart low (this engine has a preexisting problem where it consumes 1 quart every 800 miles or so I had just added 2 quarts that day for whatever reason).
I'm now seeing spotting on the floor of the garage. The engine itself looks "wet". I'd wiped it down as best I could, but am concerned for oil now appearing beneath the car.
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